Tuesday, October 12, 2010

my battery keeps dying but alternator light came on passat 02 1.9 tdi someone said repleace battery?

Question 1
my battery keeps dying but alternator light came on passat 02 1.9 tdi someone said repleace battery?...  surely if i relace battery it could b more trouble does anyone know what the alternator light indicates

1)   You might need a new alternator? Replace the battery first anyway they are cheap compared to alternators so it's worth a shot. Batteries do wear out eventually - Jimmy Jones

2)   Go and get both your battery and alternator output tested. That'll settle it. - champer

3)   Get both tested by a Garage. I have had a faulty alternator and a duff battery in different cars. Only a proper test will tell you which one is faulty. - Kernow Lady

4)   Check out the cheapest option first - in this case it could just be a slipping fan belt. If that's OK have the alternator output checked, then the battery. - Old Folkie

5)   The alternator light tells you that the alternator isn't charging the battery.
That's why your battery keeps going flat.
Changing the battery will only work until the new battery goes flat.

You need to have your charging system checked - it could be as simple as a worn drive belt, or you may need a new alternator. - Tufty the Squirrel

6)   First cheapest is check the alternator drive belt for slipping and all the connections on the alternator - could be a wire loose or corroded also try spraying some WD40 into the brushes on the alternator - they some times stick. If none of these help then do as others have advised and get your output checked by a trustworthy garage. If you are on a tight budget a second hand alternator from a breaker / scrapyard is the cheapest solution otherwise find somewhere that will do an exchange as this will get you a decent chunk off the price for a new alternator. - pistonhead

7)   Battery keeps dying. Is it an old battery? 5-6 year is the life of a battery so if you figure around that age then the battery is toast. Alternator light means either you alternator belt is broken, regulator (inside the alternator is screwed) or battery.
The easiest for you to check is the battery. If it is the original battery(it is like a person who is 150 y.o.)You can take it to a shop(the car -if still drivable) and ask the mechanics to do a "load test" which will tell you how much juice is left in your battery. Usually it is a free test, because they are hoping you will buy the battery from them.
If the car is basically undrivable because the battery is dead; then you have no choice than to get another battery. So make some measurements on the outside of the battery casing LxWxH and NOTE on which side the positive post(red) is located. Batteries come both ways. And your cables in the car do not reach if the battery is backwards."by about an inch"
Now you are ready to go battery shopping. You can ask at the dealership and mark that price down; then go to your economic Box store of what ones are in your town and check there. It does not need to be a VW battery, however; the greater the cranking amps the better. Just going from memory a few years back I believe it was 575Amps was the minimum.(from the dealer at $270) I noted that info, then got mine from "Costco" for $35.00 brand new no name battery(and that was with 1000Amps). [I know if I got it from the dealer, they would have to "special order" it. and it would probably cost $500 if not $600]
Cranking amps just means the "size" of the "teacup". Alternator does not care as its job is to keep it full. And when you buy a battery from a store(the store already filled it with power)
In either case it is still 12V. With higher amps, it is "easier on your starter"as there is a lot of juice available. A low battery will cause problems with the starter. Always better to have more power than you need.
A lot of shops do "free electrical checks" but of course they are hoping for later sales. - totally bored

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Question 2
Does the engine of a 1991 Volkswagen Golf GTI have a turbo? Does it relate to multi-point injection?...  I'm looking to buy one but am unable to own a car with a turbo due to provisional license restrictions

1)   if you see some metal cartrages with a hose running to the engine then no

Also you can only drive 4 cylndar cars on your p plates buddy so be carefull what you buy - William Wallace

2)   who cares about that, deathly hallows part one NEXT FUCKING MONTH! - Harry Potter

3)   buddy go on Wikipedia.com and type GTI on search sing and you have everything what you wont to new about your car. I copy/paste this :
Golf GTI & GTI 16v

1990-1992 Volkswagen GTI 3-door (US)
The successful Golf GTI (or, in the USA, simply "GTI") was continued with the Mk2 as a sporty 3- or 5-door hatchback. Like late Mk1 GTIs, it featured a fuel-injected 1.8 litre four developing 112 PS (82 kW; 110 hp). In 1986 (1987 for North America) a Golf GTI 16V was introduced; here the 1.8 litre engine put out 139 PS (102 kW; 137 hp) (or 129 PS (95 kW; 127 hp) for the catalyst version) and the model was marked by discreet red and black "16v" badges front and rear. US/Canadian GTIs were later equipped with 2.0 16 valve-engines, available in the Passat and Corrado outside North America. In 1990, like the Golf, the GTI was given a facelift, and the "Big Bumper" became standard on all GTIs. This was maintained through the rest of the Mk2 model era. In 1990 the GTi G60 was also introduced featuring the 8v 1.8 with a G60 supercharger this version is not to be confused with the very rare G60 Limited (see below). - Goran

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Question 3
I need help with my 1974 vw bug? HELP please!!?...  I own a 1974 1600cc dual port vw Super Beatle. I know this is the fastest stock vw made. I'm not trying to make it fast by changing the heads or anything like that. I just want to know a few things. 1. It's running on a 30pict -1 carb right now. Is this bad? Should I be running it with a 34pict -3 carb? 2. I have an electronic distributor that I believe is not correctly advancing. Would I benefit from a vacuum electric distributor? 3. I believe that my car is over heating, usually after about 5 minutes in the freeway once I stop on the off ramp and at any stops my cars oil light will turn on. I know I'm not low on oil because I constantly check that on a daily basis. The oil is new aswell. Any idea what it might be?
(another thing. My engiene is completely stock as far as I know)
Thank you for taking the time to read this post, im open to any imput on this, once again thank you

1)   Hey Abraham....fellow '74 Super owner here.

if your single port carb is origional or never rebuilt, it may be time. ONLY let a VW specialist work on your car too, believe me! I have converted to a duel carb, but the difference is not really worth it. I have a Karman Ghia that is all stock, it was my Mom's when it was new...bad ass! The oil light more than likely has a short in it...allowing it to be fine when cold but once warming up, the heat streaches the wires an a good connnection is lost hins the light blinking. You also should have the valves checked. My '74 is a super fun car...especially now that it runs perfect because of a rebulit set of carbs, proper valve adjustments and open highway...../..good luck!

Try WWW.SAMBA. com - Shelby K

2)   I replaced my disty with a SVAC distributor and coupled with the 34p3 carb, runs much better.
Make sure your timing, carb and valves are set properly as you can experience overheating issues when they're out of whack. - Jay S

3)   yes you would be better off running a dvda (dual vacuum dual advance) dizzy. you should also have a 34 pict 3 carb. its not bad depending on what size jets you have in the carb. too small and you will definitely run lean and cause you to overheat. as for the oil light....is it only on when you stop? or on while you drive as well? as you drive the oil in the engine heats up, and when it heats up it will thin a little and cause a slight drop in pressure especially when the car is at an idle.

NOTE: the oil light is not for temperature but rather pressure

what weight oil are you running in the car now? you may want to try a higher viscosity, something like 20w-50 - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)

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Question 4
Where can I get a VW Type 2?...  I am looking to buy a VW Type 2 T1, or in other words, the hippie van. Please only answer with a website! If you think I can get a better deal out of a different model of Type 2 though, then by all means post your answer and details why you think so. Thanks.

1)   If its a bus you need look no further

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ - theunknownfew_20

2)   You can find a lot in Europe specially in south/east Europe. - Goran

3)   http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/cat.php?id=5

call it a BUS please. some people take offense to calling it a "hippie van" lol

the link if for split window bus's (in your case a T1) which are from 1949-1967. like this.....http://cache.jalopnik.com/assets/resources/2006/09/vw_bus_updated.jpg

and (T2) bay window bus's from 1968 to 1979. like this......http://img.wendmag.com/uploads/1971_VW_bus.jpeg - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)

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Question 5
Can I use heavy duty oil for VW Jetta?...  I have a gallon in the garage and I don't know what to do with it
Any problems with that ? Shell Rotella oil

1)   Only use it if it is the weight/type is recommended by the manufacturer. - Otto

2)   It depends on how cold your winters are . I wouldn't use it if you are in area that frequently goes below 35 degrees . - Thomas King

3)   Shell Rotella is actually a good oil for the 97-03 Jetta TDIs... Any other Jetta? No way. - Richard R

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