tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58064695874985841522024-03-19T02:02:05.902-07:00volkswagen Chat - Mods and Repairsbuy vw, car loan for volkswagen, passat, vw golf, golf gti, vm beetleAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18241567930674024052noreply@blogger.comBlogger425125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-76910442997685305332011-08-16T18:10:00.001-07:002011-08-16T18:10:23.385-07:00Help with my Mk2 VW Golf please (bit smokey, etc)?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Help with my Mk2 VW Golf please (bit smokey, etc)?... I have an old Mk2 VW Golf (J Reg) which has done about 150k.
<br />I don’t really drive it a lot and when I do it’s not very long distances (maybe 20 miles round trips)
<br />
<br />It starts first time, even after it’s been sitting for a while (up to a month without being started) and the oil and water levels are always fine, but it’s quite smokey when it is started and is a bit smokey when I first drive it, even if it’s been running for a while before.
<br /> I was thinking maybe it just needs a good run so I could drive the “long way” home today down the dual carriageway but I wasn’t sure if this might damage it more?
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<br />Should I do or not do anything, or does it just need starting and driving a bit more often?
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<br />Thanks<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>It might be leaky valve seals that allow a bit of oil to accumulate in the cylinders when the car is turned off. That accumulation is quickly burned off when the car is started. Some oil is getting into the cylinders all the time but is such a small amount and is burned off continuously so you don't notice any smoke. If so it's nothing to be concerned about as long as you regularly check the oil. You could drive it that way forever. - <i>Howard L</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>how smoky? like does it look like your creating a smoke screen behind you... or is it lightly smoking?? could be the fliter on the back of the exhaust needs changing..... (they have a name but i forgot it :/) could be that the oil needs topping up.... or...and most probably.... is that a gasket has gone on the cylinder housing or oil reservoir.... and is slowly leaking in to the chambers and combusting with the petrol... which is fine for the engine, until you run out of oil - obviously!!.... so i would look at the cork gasket seals, and replace them with new ones for £15...... and yes driving it more often would also help quite a lot..... but if the problem persists then obviously take it to a garage... because they know what theyre doing.. and im sure they've seen it all before..... so yer...... - <i>8HRR52J</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>www.halfords.com - <i>provisional ng haigh</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>These old VW engines do go that way after a big mileage, it'll be the valve stem seals. Whether you think it's worth the several hundred quid to fix it depends on you.
<br />It'll probably go on for a while longer yet, and a car that old doesn't have such strict emissions testing at MOT time so it may even pass an MOT.
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<br />Personally I'd just keep an eye on it until it gets too bad and then sell it for parts. These old Golfs are quite sought after if the body is in decent condition so could be worth a few hundred quid. - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>you should have told us the colour of the smoke ...but im guessing its blue ...oil ..i own a garage ...best test of any engine ...drive up a steep hill ..at top of hill put in third gear ..do not touch throttle or clutch let it go down hill ..what we call a trailing throttle ..when at bottom of hill ..boot it ..look in rear view mirror ...if you can see blue smoke ..you have worn bores ..simple as that - <i>boy boy</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>Valve stem seals as others state. I understand there is a way of replacing them without actually removing the head. In essence, your cylinder is filled with compressed air via the spark plug hole. This keeps the valves closed and you can then remove the collets and springs which then enables you to replace the stem seals.However, I do not know any garage where this has been done but try speaking to a long established non franchise VW specialist in your local area. Oner of the VW magazines or the Internet should give you details. - <i>L G</i><br><br><font color="blue">7) </font>Sounds like worn valve stem seals. If the smoke disappears after a while and the oil level is fine, I wouldn't worry about taking it for a drive on the dual carriageway. Older VWs tend to have valve stem seal problems at that mileage.
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<br />If the car smokes a bit when you snap the throttle open after driving down a steep hill on engine compression, it's the valve stem seals. They also tend to make more white than blue smoke. If it's pitch black smoke, it's excess fuel or loosened carbon deposits. - <i>Chris</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">VW GTI only a guys car?... So I'm about to get my first car.. and I'm pretty sure it's going to be a black 2003 vw gti 1.8t.
<br />I know it's not the best car but I really want a gti and that's the only one for sale around where I live.
<br />Anyways, everyone that drives a gti in my area are guys. I don't think I've ever seen a girl driving one..
<br />So I'm just wondering what your opinion is on if a gti is more of a guys car.. a girls, or both?
<br />
<br />It's not to change my mind or anything.. just curious what others think! I actually think it'd be kind of cool to be different.. one of the only girls by me having one..
<br />:)<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>my sister in law had one...there is not gender association with the gti. - <i>snowglobe380</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>I dont know your agr but i would suggest the insurance costs would be horrendous having read all the horror stories in the daily papers and the stories on TV - <i>BARRY</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>it's definitely not just a guys car, especially not the Mk4. I think it's a cool girls (or guys) car, not like say a Ford Ka, (a girly girls car) and maybe something like an old RS 2000 Escort might be a Guys car for example.
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<br />But...I'm not quite sure why you would want a 1.8 anything, or a GTI, assuming you're under 25 and as this is your first car anyway the insurance will be sky high, you might not even get insured very easily.
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<br />Also the tax is high on a 1.8 GTI - <i>Stuck In The Dark Sky</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>yes its owned by yorkie.... and girls are not allowed to drive it... if you are a girl and your caught driving it... police can arrest you and take your drivers license from you..... what do you think??!!!!!! of course you can drive one!!!!!!! so go buy one!!!!! theyre good cars, and there is no gender assigned to driving golf gtis... girls look good in sporty german hatchbacks.... so go and get it.... and then race the guys who have one... and beat them... and then they'll commit suicide.... <br />:)<br /><br />and @ the other commenters ^^^ .... the insurance is not high if you are put down as an additional driver on the car with someone over 25 and with lots of driving history, and an excellent no claims bonus..... it costs around the same amount to insure a nissan micra on an 18 yr old license, as it does to insure an 18 yr old in a 7 year old Audi A6 3.0l turbo as an additional driver on an experienced driver's license. (theyre both £2000/yr) i should know as my sister had a saab 2002 9-5 2.3l Aero.. as an additional driver... and i am eventually getting insured on a 2000 4.0l Jeep grand cherokee.. as an additional driver.. so a 1.8L Golf GTI is rather small in comparison... - <i>8HRR52J</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>nah its just image associations/stereotypes...
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<br />I know both men and women who have the GTi
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<br />For a first car though.. I reckon you could do better unless you got money to burn on maintaining it. - <i>G</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">i am considering buying a later beetle say a 73 or 74, which one will be better for looks and daily driveabili?... Ive read a lot about these bettles as am buying one to restore soon. I am thinking along the lines of a 72 to 74, dont know which year is best for looks, spares and daily use. Am going for the modern retro look inspired by the beetle crisis show [ http://www.cjroberts.com/steve/02/index.htm ]. Engine wise, i should do well with a modest 1600cc without any serious modifications. Please advise me..<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>waste of your energy. - <i>Mark</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Wait... You want to purchase a 38 year old vehicle to use as a daily driver? Are you hoping to get stuck on the side of the road at the most inopportune time? - <i>straight shooter</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>'73 or older. - <i>doane_nut</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>not much of a difference between a 72 and a 74.
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<br />differences = bumpers, bumper mounts (shock mounts). steering wheel, carburetor, strut mount (3 bolt vs 4 bolt)
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<br />difference between super beetle and standard beetle = strut front suspension, different hood (71-72 and 73+) 73+ has curved front windshield.
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<br />a 1600cc engine is enough power to get you around, i drive a 1970 with a 1600cc single port with probably 40-45HP daily(its the only car I own), and I'm still alive.
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<br />these cars do require more regular maintenance than a newer car but if maintained properly can be very cheap to own and drive - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">VW golf mk5 (how come 2.0TDI has more torque than GTI)?... can someone explain why and what does it mean that it has more torque why is it better to have more and how can it have more its a disel and also explain anything you know about golf engine of mk5<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Hi
<br />Here's a very basic explanation. Torque usually tells you how quickly a car will take off or "launch". The higher the torque, the better the takeoff. Power will tell you what top end speeds you can expect. The higher the power, the better the top end speed. Now, diesel engines always have a higher torque, due to the way they are built. Petrol engines have better power. (FYI, TDi is diesel and GTi engine is petrol). The GTi is better overall because it has excellent torque for a petrol engine and obviously has better power. Plus... The GTi is turbocharged and supercharged... But thats a discussion for another day. :-) - <i>V</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Diesel engines inherently have more torque than the equivalent gas engines. TDI means Turbo Diesel Injection. It is turbo, very strong starts and gets 60 mile per gallon (Canadian) ir 43 U.S.
<br />I have a 2002 jetta diesel 280K kilometers (168K miles) no problem - <i>Bruce K</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>A diesel, as mentioned by the other posters, usually has more torque than an equivalent turbocharged petrol engine due to the much higher compression ratio that is required to ignite diesel fuel (16.5:1 in the TDI vs. 10.5:1 in the GTI). Higher compression ratios can extract much more energy from each stroke, therefore the torque is higher.
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<br />Power on a diesel is usually lower, since power is a function of torque and engine speed. If you can build a very high-revving diesel engine, it will have more power than the GTI. That is why some cars (Japanese, especially) have quite low torque figures, but they are very powerful in kW (or bhp, depending on where you live).
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<br />Now for the technical specs. 2.0 TDI in the Mk V is a pumpe düse design, meaning that each little injector has its own pump on the injector to create very high fuel pressure right before injection. These are rev-happy (to an extent), but require meticulous care to prevent damage to the engine. This is mostly caused by incorrect oil.
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<br />GTI is a 2.0 turbocharged gasoline engine with direct injection. Direct injection allows much more accurate adjustment of the mixture, much finer fuel atomisation and stratified injection, meaning the mixture leans out as you move away from the spark plug. This allows for high performance, but also much better fuel economy when driving with small, constant throttle openings.
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<br />Both vehicles use drive-by-wire throttle. - <i>Chris</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">How do I find the Thermostat on a 68 VW beetle?... Can't find it need pictures or videos<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>there isn't one in a '68 they started adding them to cars in the 90's - <i>brian trunick</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>If memory serves me there is no radiator, so no thermostat. VW's were air cooled not water. - <i>Poppy</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>There is a thermostat unless it was removed. Remove the four screws holding the inspection plate on the bottom of the sheet metal under the engine. Above it you should see an accordion like device which is the thermostat. Many people removed the thermostat and the flaps it controls so the engine would receive full flow at all times. However, the flaps also direct the flow to particular points on the engine and so should be kept. The thermostat is adjusted by loosening the mounting bracket so it can slide, then set it to where the flaps just close ( at room temperature) and tighten the bolt. If the thermostat is extended at room temperature it is bad. Screw it off its shaft and screw another one on. You can test a thermostat by dropping it in boiling water. It should expand. - <i>Richard D</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-40829853468635027492011-08-14T18:10:00.001-07:002011-08-14T18:10:18.954-07:00What VW PASSAT 2007 OR ABOVE is good ? 1.9TDI 105BHP or 2.0 TDI 140BHP ?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">What VW PASSAT 2007 OR ABOVE is good ? 1.9TDI 105BHP or 2.0 TDI 140BHP ?... I was wondering if anyone know what is real difrent betwen 1.9TDI 105 BHP SE and 2.0 TDI 140 BHP SE !!
<br /> i know the 140 TDI much faster and powerful than the 1.9 TDI ,, but what iam thinking of is which of them is more reliable ? and which one mechanically more stronger and better ?
<br />and what is good advantage and bad advantage from two of them ? thanks alot<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Either will be ample for road use and as reliable as each other as long as your not going to mess with the engines. - <i>who_is_jack_shit</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>2.0 ltre... from memory the 1.9ltr has a few issues (worked at vw for many years as a mechanic) - <i>lanaH</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Generally the lower power version of any engine is going to be more reliable, especially when the power is achieved by a turbocharger.
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<br />If you're talking about secondhand ones, all bets are off. View each car as an individual and don't get bogged down in thinking one will be more reliable that the other, because it'll depend on how the cars have been looked after. - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Look for one with the dealer service history. The 140 bhp is a flying machine and encourages "spirited" driving so if your car is for keeps you may be better with the lower powered car. We have a 140 bhp car and it has had a new A/c pump fitted although we were not aware of any problem so it may be the VW dealer was making a wage... the EGR valve has caused problems but its not an enormous job and this piece of equipment affects many vehicles. Otherwise the car has been perfect, I drove it back from Paris to the North of England and it was a pleasure to drive. - <i>L G</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>I really doubt whether there is any intrinsic difference in reliability. I have driven both and my money would go on the 2 litre 140bhp engine any day of the week, it makes for effortless driving. - <i>Fairdo4all</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>seriously VW's are reliable cars especially tdi engines
<br />except speed i don't see any difference
<br />mpg might be different
<br />the engine which has more power will have a smooth ride - <i>Salim Nadeem</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">Is this a vw gti a good first car?... I am getting my liscense in a month and am looking for cars, and there is one on craigslist that's a vw gti 2004. Are these good first time cars?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Personally, I am driving a 2006 Jetta TDI. It's been a great car for the first 20,000 miles that I've owned it. Make sure you personally have the car fully inspected before purchase, see if there are any maintenance records and check the carfax or auto check report for any accidents prior to your purchase. Yes, these are great first cars, they are small, nimble, reliable and get great fuel economy. Great luck to you and drive safe! - <i>fermium</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>You may get some weird looks drivin that around town, but anyone who actually knows anything about cars would think you've got yourself a pretty sweet ride. - <i>Joe Stockmaster</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>what do you think?
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<br />need the details on the car...costs....etc....
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<br />VW has less than stellar reliability problems....for years they have
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<br />more than average when it comes to repairs......what other choices do
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<br />you have besides that?.....Overall, I'd steer clear of it/hi repairs costs as well - <i>Kerry</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>YES, I read the reviews on Edmunds and MSN and people who own them seem to love them and highly recommend them. If it's in good condition and the price seems right, I'd go for it. Maybe have a mechanic check it out if your unsure about it. But, overall, sounds like a pretty AWEsome car to drive. VW handle well and I think you would really enjoy driving it. Have fun but be careful )<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Average rating<br />(Updated every 3 hours)<br />9.3Overall rating<br /><br />9.3Styling<br />9.6Performance<br />9.4Interior<br />9.0Quality<br />9.3Recommendation<br />This says alot out of 10, thats pretty impressive. - <i>taylor g</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">VW Jetta is vibrating and engine light blinking. HELP?... My husband & I got into a huge fight and he took off, but before he left he did something weird to my car on purpose- I don't know what he did but the whole car vibrates and shakes whether its in idle or driving, and the engine light is blinking. Not just lit up, but blinking. I read it might be misfiring...don't know what that means. What could he of possibly done that's simple & would cause the car to do that? I know, what a jerk. I'm over that part- he's always been a sneaky bastard. I just want my car back to normal!! I've got 2 kids who start school next week. Plus I need to get the heck out of here. Help!! Please :)<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>The only problem makes the check engine light flashing is misfiring,it means one or more of the cylinders is not firing (running),if you strongly believe the car was tampered with,open the hood and see if spark plug wires are connected to the corresponding spark plugs. - <i>Carman Nguyen</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>I have no idea, he could have loosened anything. The engine is very complicated. So to ensure you and your kids safety, I would not recommend you try fixing it yourself. Take your car to a local garage sometime and let them know whats going on with the car. Sorry I couldn't help more.Wish you the best of luck - <i>NINJERK</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>The easiest thing to do is to pull one of the coil packs, causing the engine to misfire. It depends on which year jetta you havee, but just try pushing firmly down on the coils that plug onto each sparkplug. If it's an older jetta, make sure the sparkplug wires are firmly seated onto the spark plugs. - <i>ryantmills</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">i have a 1971 volkswagon super beetle and idk how to turn my dash lights on?... i have a 1971 volkswagon super beetle and idk how to turn my dash lights on ..well the lights that light up the spedometer and stuff i found a switch under steering wheel but it doesnt do anything and i dont know what it goes to.. how do i turn the lights on an what does the switch go to<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>you know that was a problem in a lof of old cars You either get a shop manual and hope it details exactly what to do, or take the dash apart and figure it out your self, pay a vw mechanic to fix the problem, or do what I did, carry a small penlight flashlight that went on the key chain that stayed in the car and turned it on briefly to spot check the gages every so often. - <i>roger</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>The dash light (headlight switch that you rotate) switch is bad, replace it.....vehicle light switches in that era are prone to corrosion because they used a rheostat. - <i>Wes</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>you know how to turn on the parking/headlights right? its a little knob on the dash above and to the right of the radio. when you turn on the parking lights (first click when you pull the knob) or the headlights (second and final click) rotate the knob either left or right this turns it on/off. if it doesnt than the switch is bad or a wire is disconnected from the switch or the speedometer or in rare occasions the bulb has burned out - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">What car is a better option, Rav4 2004 manual or Volkswagen passat 2003?... Knowing that the car I'm looking for is for really bad snowy winter, I would like to know if somebody has had these cars and do they work, do they required lots of fixing, gas, mechanic problems ?? If somebody could helpe with some information I will appreciate it!! Thanks<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Its smart to do research, I would say the rav4 when your talking snowy weather. It sits up higher, has bigger tires and once you learn how to drive a stick right it can be safer in the winter (you can keep in a low gear going up and down hills for example) Have you looked at edmunds.com? they always have reviews from real people on different cars. - <i>anomaly21</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>with VWs repairs history/quality problems for years......
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<br />I would lean to the toyota....repairs costs for the rav
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<br />are not cheap either, but should prove to be more
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<br />reliable over all; and manual?..nothin to it....even
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<br />better gas than automatic..optimum shift pattern on
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<br />a 5 speed is this pattern.....1 - 3 - 5....should be in 3rd gear
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<br />by 20mph on normal streets...5th by 30/35....no need on normal
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<br />sts to use the other gears....increases mileage by 20/25% ..from
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<br />consumers reports - <i>Kerry</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-88819921971562763432011-08-13T18:10:00.001-07:002011-08-13T18:10:19.747-07:00How much HP does my Vw Beetle 1300 single port have?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">How much HP does my Vw Beetle 1300 single port have?... 1970 beetle with a 1300 single port. How much horse power do i have? And how fast can i drive her on the freeway to work that is safe for the engine? Also what sorta gas mileage is expected, with stock exhaust?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>if your lucky about 25hp - <i>Jeff</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>should be around 40 hp. Top speed around 120 km/h. - <i>Gorfin Rod</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Your stock horse was about 40 horse. Your top speed should be determined by your front end, not your horse power. IF your engine is in good shape, she can make you go faster than you want to. So, check your brakes, and front end play, and then have fun. Try to be safe.... drive like you are strapped on the front bumper of this beast, you pretty much are. - <i>DavidJohn</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>40 HP but that was 41 years ago so a few of those ponies have run away. might be pushing 30-33 at the wheels. top speed is 75mph
<br />http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/manualsbug67.php
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<br />id say 60-65 mph is a good cruising speed on the freeway and you should get about 28mpg highway 20-21 city and 24-25mpg combined (thats about what i get). remember to also not go too slow for the gear you are in, listen to the engine... it will tell you when to change gears up/down generally follow the little red hash marks on the face of the speedometer.
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<br />1st gear = 0-15
<br />2nd gear = 5-32
<br />3rd gear = 20-45
<br />4th gear = 40-75
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<br />driving around at 30mph in 4th gear will heat the engine up since its air cooled and the fan is run by the speed of the engine, the lower the rpm the hotter the engine will be, just remember to listen to the engine, she'll let you know what to do - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>No, they are all wrong.
<br />The 1300 had an advanced cam and higher compression than the later 1500, so actually had the same 52 HP. The 1300 was only made in 1966, and had an extremely characteristic bell ringing sort of sound to it. Only the 1200 had 40 hp. The problem with the 1300 was that although it was zippy, it tended to crack pistons due to the extra compression.
<br />Top cruising would be probably about 70 mph, and mileage should be good, around 32. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">what type of gas do i put in my 97 jetta glx vr6?... i am 17 and on my 17th birthday i had gotten a 1991 4 door golf with a vr6 conversion from a 97 jetta glx i need to know what gas i should put in it so it dosent hurt my engine<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Mustard gas! - <i>Panda Ken</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>unleaded - <i>Steven Chase</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Premium unleaded - <i>Chris</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>the best fuel you can afford
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<br />premium unleaded - <i>Chloe's Dad</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">how can i pimp out my 1999 jetta?... what would make a 1999 jetta look cool and not be riced out lol... give links to items and additions if you can. thanks<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>just get racing seats, sparco steering wheel, interior stuff. maybe just rims and a carbon hood.
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<br />DON'T FORGET PERFORMANCE PARTS! - <i>Jonny</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Too old. It would be a good waste of money. Won't be worth anymore customized. - <i>URI (from Canada)</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Keep it low, keep it slow, keep it Euro. - <i>Zack</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">VW CC OR CAMARO?! HOTT GIRL?... I have the ability to get a brand new vw cc or chevy camaro. I'll tell u a little bit about me so you can help me decide. I am a young woman who is attractive (this is what ppl tell me) and am practical and fun. I am looking for a sexy sleek car that guys will ohh and ahh over, just like I want them to do with me, jk. But a car thats great for me to give rides to people in and they will all love the car and I will love the car. think HOTT CAR. Tell me what you think and what colors. No white (looks crappy in my opinion). THANKS!<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>brand new vw cc
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<br />ford gt 500 > camaro ss - <i>mega</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>The cc is a smaller engine car, with soft curves and lines, and pretty small in size, so some may be feel cramped in it. It is of better quality product though, and better on gas.
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<br />The camaro has a stronger engine, the lines are more sharp to signify aggression, and the engine is stronger. CC has simple and elegant, and will attract guys are are just that. Camaro has adventure and dominance, and will attract likes like that.
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<br />So, if you're looking for a relationship, go with the CC because those guys will be gentleman. The camaro is for causal dates with excitement, and no commitment.
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<br />For your description above, I'd say the camaro fits you more. - <i>jnezbed</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">WHat does a volkswagen with a syringe stickin out of it mean?... a yellow light appeared on the dashboard that looked like you were giving the car a shot<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Means you are low on Heroine. Better fill up! - <i>Geo</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>your car needs oil - <i>Alberto Santos</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-78260766854896885472011-08-05T18:10:00.001-07:002011-08-05T18:10:24.876-07:00Is 180,000 miles alot for a Volkswagon Jetta?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Is 180,000 miles alot for a Volkswagon Jetta?... I seen this hertz with 180,000 miles on it.but the person says it still runs great and I've heard great things about this car so let me kno if that's a lot thanks<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>That's a lot of miles for any car. - <i>Mizza</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>It is a considerable amount of miles but if the car is well taken care of and runs well then it should last at least a few more years without giving you much trouble. VW's are long lasting and very reliable. Check the maintenance record if available and check that all fluids are at recommended levels. Check for leaks and suspension faults. Chances are that if the exterior is in good conditions, the engine was also taken care of. - <i>Pedro</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>my answer: run away!
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<br />VWs are well built and reliable if taken care of but expensive to maintain with a LOT of little parts that can go. For instance a 2001 Jetta has a door lock module with 6 different microswitches. If anything goes wrong with it you're talking hundreds of dollars just for the part. The car is chock full of complex and expensive bits and pieces, and at 180k, they're going to be worn out sooner than later - <i>Boomzilla Volcanoduck</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>i'm surprised it made it this long walk if you're thinking of buying - <i>bo</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>no that is not a lot of miles if the car was taken care of.. I have seen many vws run well over 250,000 miles with no problem, it all comes down to how the car was serviced, and yes it can get expensive to fix things when they go wrong but that is with ANY vehicle not just vws like some people try to make everyone think - <i>Manny Banans</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>I'm pushing a 210k on my 01 golf, this week. A few golfs/jetta already broke the 350k miles bench mark. It just takes $$$$ and the tooling to keep them going. - <i>E</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">How many young girls do you see driving Volkswagen bugs 1967 and under?... Because im one and people are finding it hard to believe!
<br />oh i say 1967 and under or older shall i say is because 1971 and up are SUPER BETTLES!<br />an all girl racing car club saw me and want me to join, <br />my motor isn't stoke far from it!<br />thank you for that, <br />I learned something new today.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Several - <i>Bongzilla</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>I love love love old bugs! I want a light blue one or light yellow one when I get a car!
<br />ps- the new bugs are UGLY! they look like ufos - <i>Vanessa lalala</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Not any since its a antique. The old ones had real bumpers - <i>USA MALE</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Not too many. Not too many bugs driving around in the first place. The thing has a hard time going pass 60 mph. I saw one girl in a black one with a bumper sticker saying "I went to college for this?" - <i>Kenny</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>i see are a few out there. im a 21 year old dude with 2, one I drive and another I restored.
<br />first off, 1971 and up are not necessarily supers. they still made standards up to 1977 soooo... if your gonna try to talk trash about people with late model bugs at least know what your talking about
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<br />i see as many young people driving fat chicks as i do early models - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Why does my vw golf electric windows stick?... My golf windows stick when winding them down or up (Seems to happen random). They are electric windows on MK4 golf. I have noticed that the lights on the window switches flicks off when they stop and comes back on again. What could be the problem?<br />Forgot to mention its happening for all of the windows<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>When the light goes off it is losing power to the windows. Maybe defective wiring or switch or connections. - <i>Timbo is here</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>hi there a few reasons yes it could be lack of power, but i think windows are sticking try greasing the window runners each side of glass, it could be the window winding mechanism seizing up again you have to take door panel off and spray release oil on all moving parts. it could be the window relay burning out. Jock - <i>jock</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>unfortunately a common problem with the mk 4 is the window mechanism falling apart, you can get a repair kit, but if you want my advise then buy the complete mechanism which comes with the new metal panel which it mounts on, cost about £70 if you shop around, it is not a 5 minute job and unless you consider yourself able to fix it then get someone who can, otherwise you could destroy the door panel trying to remove it. - <i>Pete</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>I think it is unlikely that all the mechanism's are falling apart as one of your answers suggest ! More likely that the control relay has "forgotten" its function. I believe there is information about re-programming the system in your handbook . If not, providing you have the radio code, I would disconnect the battery earth for about a half hour and then reconnect. Press and hold the switches in turn to send the window down, then press and hold them again to send them back up, in each case hold them for 7 or 8 seconds. This should reset the control memory. You can possibly do it without disconnecting the battery. - <i>L G</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">What would be the best way to tune my Jetta to over 300hp?... I have a 2002 Jetta GLS with the 1.8L Turbo. I'm looking to upgrade it to its max one day but for right now im shooting for anything over 300hp. I really don't know a lot about tuning so the more help the better. Not worried about price and bolt on is best if possible. please include links to purches parts.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>drop in a VR6 and add a bigger turbo/intercooler. - <i>♥ Jens ♥</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>I would say to look into doing some upgrades to your intake, exhaust, computer chip, that in itself will get you in the 250 hp + range then look to put a bigger turbo (and all the little things that go with it and there are many) and that will get you well over 300. Once you get to those kinds of powers don't forget to take care of your suspension and rubber because there is no point in having lots of power if you can't use it. some good people to talk to are the guys at APR Tuning they are very very good with VW engines and they truely know what they are talking about. and don't forget to check out vwvortex.com there are a lot of people on there that can also point you in the right direction. - <i>Manny Banans</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>There's no point putting 300bhp on ANY front wheel drive car...It will simply burn rubber and wear out the engine in no time...
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<br />Best option is to get a bigger engined car like a 3.2l V6 4motion...the four wheel drive will make upgrading the bhp more bearable.
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<br />Putting a huge turbo on a 1.8l car will create ridiculous turbo lag, which will make the car undriveable at slow speeds.
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<br />Also, you have to consider the effect 300bhp will have on the gearbox, clutch, engine...they will just burn out from too much power... - <i>duniedunie001</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Why doesn't my 2010 vw Jetta say 2.5 on the back?... I just noticed this when I saw another car that is the same as mine... dont they all say this or no..?<br />but i thought mine was too... :(<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>It's a 2.5 liter engine and yours isn't. - <i>Emanuel Castro</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>There's a Jetta 2.0L and 2.5L. If yours don't have 2.5L, probably a 2.0. - <i>Noodle</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Your car, if it is a 2010, is either a 2.5L or TDI. It should say either way, if it doesn't, your badge has simply fallen off or been removed.
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<br />For the other posters mentioning the 2.0L, it wasn't used in the 2010. It was used up to the early 2005 models and made a return for the 2011 Jetta Sedans. - <i>Richard R</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-46853205576539190352011-08-04T18:10:00.001-07:002011-08-04T18:10:24.000-07:00what do people think of vw beetle?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">what do people think of vw beetle?... Im gettting a used 2001 on friday, but i dont want it to like suck or anything. iv talked to a few people and all said that they are pretty good cars,. and that they dont brack down, "from what they know" but i want to know from people that really have vw beetles. So 2001 vw beetle reveiw. thanksss. :)<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>It is a very stylish, unique car. One of a kind. Easily indetifiable. - <i>Ricky Nai</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>The New Beetle is a consistent top 5 finisher in Consumer Reports "Used cars to avoid" category.<br /><br />http://finance.yahoo.com/family-home/article/110205/avoid-these-5-used-cars-plus-5-to-buy?mod=family-autos - <i>CAB</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>they have electrical issues and even some have randomly caught fire due to this. Buyer beware. - <i>Spammer</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Hitler mobile - <i>Scuzzlebutt</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>It generally sucks.
<br />It's famous for reliability problems, with the most common being electrical and engine issues.
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<br />The 2001 model has a crapload of recalls. For your own safety, make sure these have been addressed before you take delivery. - <i>Stupid Flanders</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>Essentially its based on the VW Golf. If you are in the US then VW have had reliability problems, if you can get a German built car it would pay dividends. Be very guarded about consumer magazines as they do not tell a complete story. i.e 3000 Lexus will always seem to be more reliable than 20,000 Volkswagens. - <i>L G</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">How many young girls do you see driving Volkswagen bugs 1967 and under?... Because im one and people are finding it hard to believe!
<br />oh i say 1967 and under or older shall i say is because 1971 and up are SUPER BETTLES!<br />an all girl racing car club saw me and want me to join, <br />my motor isn't stoke far from it!<br />thank you for that, <br />I learned something new today.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Several - <i>Bongzilla</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>I love love love old bugs! I want a light blue one or light yellow one when I get a car!
<br />ps- the new bugs are UGLY! they look like ufos - <i>Vanessa lalala</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Not any since its a antique. The old ones had real bumpers - <i>USA MALE</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Not too many. Not too many bugs driving around in the first place. The thing has a hard time going pass 60 mph. I saw one girl in a black one with a bumper sticker saying "I went to college for this?" - <i>Kenny</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>i see are a few out there. im a 21 year old dude with 2, one I drive and another I restored.
<br />first off, 1971 and up are not necessarily supers. they still made standards up to 1977 soooo... if your gonna try to talk trash about people with late model bugs at least know what your talking about
<br />
<br />i see as many young people driving fat chicks as i do early models - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">What are Volkswagen group famous for?... treatment of workers?
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<br />unique technology?
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<br />safety?
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<br />Thanks.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Their fame originated withe the old Bug. - <i>σοφός άνθρωπος</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>German Engineering...Making it available to all, safety, reliablility, comfort, in one nice cheap package. Also the Beattle, and taking over the Car Market. Volkswagen Group owns the most amount car companys, such as Audi and Lamborghini. - <i>Ashley Regne</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>For building a German car with German feel for a lower price. VW is the only non luxury German brand sold in America. Plus, you can't deny it, they are also famous for building the bug. - <i>SB</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>they made a car everyone called the pregnant roller skate - <i>USA MALE</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">What should I name my Volkswagen beetle?... It's yellow with grey interior.<br />It's also going to be a girl.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Bee
<br />Bumblebee
<br />Jane
<br />Jacob
<br />Anne
<br />Adam
<br />Victoria
<br />Victor...
<br />I'll edit my answer when I know if it's a boy or girl ;) - <i>I'mMe</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>well, when you name your car, it's always a she. my cousin put a mustache on here beetle, lol. anyway when you get close to your car, you could always come up with a name such as-<br />-sally<br />-victoria <br />-etc.<br />pick a name that is smoothing, - <i>Nick</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Buggy
<br />Bugsy
<br />BugBug
<br />Das Bug
<br />BoogyBuggy
<br />Bongo - <i>mirofish</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>lol..it's a girl how cute! congrats.
<br />vergilben
<br />or svenja, ute, valda, wilfreda, verena, ursel...
<br />german names - <i>snowglobe380</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Why does my vw golf electric windows stick?... My golf windows stick when winding them down or up (Seems to happen random). They are electric windows on MK4 golf. I have noticed that the lights on the window switches flicks off when they stop and comes back on again. What could be the problem?<br />Forgot to mention its happening for all of the windows<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>When the light goes off it is losing power to the windows. Maybe defective wiring or switch or connections. - <i>Timbo is here</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>hi there a few reasons yes it could be lack of power, but i think windows are sticking try greasing the window runners each side of glass, it could be the window winding mechanism seizing up again you have to take door panel off and spray release oil on all moving parts. it could be the window relay burning out. Jock - <i>jock</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>unfortunately a common problem with the mk 4 is the window mechanism falling apart, you can get a repair kit, but if you want my advise then buy the complete mechanism which comes with the new metal panel which it mounts on, cost about £70 if you shop around, it is not a 5 minute job and unless you consider yourself able to fix it then get someone who can, otherwise you could destroy the door panel trying to remove it. - <i>Pete</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-45050772129985502672011-07-22T18:10:00.001-07:002011-07-22T18:10:36.984-07:00Car Hasn't Been Started In Almost A Year?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Car Hasn't Been Started In Almost A Year?... My 2000 VW Beetle has been sitting in my driveway since last August. I'm wondering if there could be any problems with the engine and brakes, since it hasn't been started/driven in so long. There were no problems with it before except a dead battery.
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<br />Thanks!<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>it will need a service especially the brakes - <i>J R</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>No, you should be ok. Just to be sure, check the coolant level and bump the motor a couple times without letting it start up. Just to get some oil flowing. Let it run for 5 min before driving it so its fully heated up. - <i>fuzzylogic_y2k</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>The battery will be scrap as they cannot stand being out of use. Hopefully the clutch will disengage as they can rust on to the flywheel permanently. I would fit a new battery. Remove the spark plugs and inject clean engine oil into the plug holes. Put it in gear and push it about to turn the engine over and distribute the oil. Leave it overnight. The oil will free up the pistons and rings and good compression should result. Good luck. - <i>Bazza</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>You should be fine, replace the battery, if it sat discharged this long it will be dead and not capable of holding a charge. I have stored cars before many times up to a year with nothing more than a disconnected battery (that I charged once in a while), change the oil, make sure the tires are ok, pump them up, warm up the car, make sure nothing is leaking. Also make sure nothing took up residence in your engine compartment, its happened to me before. - <i>Kafka</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>dead battery - obviously re charge and should fire up although prob wont hold much charge anymore
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<br />brakes may have seiezed get them checked - main problem
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<br />
<br />handbrake cable might have seiezed and maybe streached or snaped or ready to snap due to being up for so long
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<br />change coolent - <i>hitmanjay99uk</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>Change all the fluids. remove each spark plug and put a squirt of oil in each cylinder before installing new plugs and plug wires. Test the battery, and replace if necessary. Start moving slowly and check the tires. The rubber might be dry and brittle, depending on where you are. - <i>παπούτσια</i><br><br><font color="blue">7) </font>That is basically all that ever dies in it. Batteries in the store do not have the acid put in them "until they are actually purchased" as the chemical reaction starts immediately of changing lead to lead sulfate. A sulfated battery is garbage. A way to keep the battery from sulfating up is to have the battery charged occasionally. Such as what happens when you drive the car - the alternator charges the battery. Even then you only have 5 or 6 years of life out of a battery. Not touching the battery for a year, well - you can bet the battery is hooped. Otherwise, it will start and run fine. - <i>Minimal patience</i><br><br><font color="blue">8) </font>The battery will be useless and when you do get it running you'll need to take it to a garage to get the brakes checked out and a good service but it should be OK. - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">9) </font>Fuzzylog is the closest.
<br />Sitting a year is nothing.
<br />It is true the battery will likely be shot, but that is no what I consider part of the car anyway.
<br />It is like oil or gasoline.
<br />
<br />It is possible that if the parking brake has been on, that they could bond.
<br />But that is trivial to fix.
<br />You just have to tap on the backing plate with a hammer, and let the vibration shatter the rust bond.
<br />
<br />It basically will not require any repair at all.
<br />I have done it dozens of times.
<br />I always have a couple of classic projects hanging around for years at a time. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><font color="blue">10) </font>check the oil and water, and see if it starts, you might need fresh petrol in it if it will not start,
<br /> there might be a chance that the rear pads have stuck to the discs if handbrake has been on, try it ! - <i>Pete</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">Should the timing belt be changed when the water pump is replaced on a 99 VW Beetle?... I had the head redone with all misc part replaced, on 5/4/2011, cost around $2200, (thank god I had a warranty!) no more than a month on 05/12/2011 my temp light came on. Had the water pump replaced ....The the car just quit & wouldn't start. So I had a mechanic look at it & He stated that there was NO way the water pump was ever replaced. And then he went on to tell me that 3 valves came unseeded. God I am SOOOO sick of this car!! WTF!!!! Some body help me!<br />I took it to "another mechanic due to the fact that the second time it broke down I was 200 miles away from where I first got it fixed...<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Seems like it might be a good idea to put a new timing belt on there while you're at it. If that thing goes then you will pretty much need a new engine. - <i>Austin</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>If the water pump is driven by the timing belt it always gets replaced when a water pump that is leaking gets replaced. The antifreeze from the leaking water pump ruins a timing belt and any professional mechanic would never reuse the soaked old timing belt, it will only jump time and bend valves. - <i>thebax2006</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Yes. - <i>παπούτσια</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Unfortunatly, it is better that you know what work needs to be done and how to do it. For the record the timing belt needs to be replaced at 100,000 miles and every 60,000 miles there after. Everything that touches the timing belt needs to be replaced when the timing belt is replaced. Normally just the water pump. You should always ask the mechanic for the old parts so that you know they have been replaced. But, it is even better if you can do the work yourself. WTF. - <i>sunset</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Nothing wrong with the car. Who you got to do the work...there is a problem there if they do not do the work and scam you out of money.<br /> <br />Yet, you are trusting a different mechanic?<br /><br />Why did you go to a different mechanic? Why would you ever suspect the last mechanic to screw you ?<br /><br /> Bad water pump would not stop the car from running. Waterpump would not be replaced if that was not the reason for the temperature light coming on. Maybe they changed a temperature sensor. Check your receipt.<br /><br /> Water pumps do not usually fail - they only leak behind the pulley when they start to go..<br /><br />"Then he went on to tell me that 3 valves came unseated"<br /><br />Meaning "what, exactly?" I am unfamiliar with that terminology(as it is BS) His remedy would be(how many hundreds$)<br /><br />It sounds like con # 2 See a third independent mechanic for their assessment. OR,<br /><br />Go back to the dealer and let the dealer mechanic work on the vehicle. (I assume that is where you got the "warranty work" done at.) <br /><br /> Until you learn how to fix it or find a trustworthy mechanic who knows something (by asking other VW owners where they get their car fixed at).<br /><br />FYI - the timing belt is replaced every 60,000 miles(100,000KM) regardless of whether the water pump gets replaced or not. I have swapped out 4 timing belts out of the same vehicle without touching the water-pump (it is fine so leave it alone).<br /><br /> It they can sell you a water pump, they will - but the belt can be removed without removing the water-pump.<br /><br />If antifreeze should ever get on a timing belt, wash it off and dry the belt. There is nothing corrosive in antifreeze (otherwise you would not have rubber hoses connecting the engine to the radiator or rubber hoses to the heater core...- common sense dictates this line of thinking)<br /><br /> If you want to buy a new one, I won't stop you.but that is the reality.<br /><br />They could have replaced the timing belt when they changed the head, but at that time I guess it was not necessary. It would be on your receipt for the head job. - <i>Minimal patience</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">HOW MUCH COULD I GET?? ?... My friend is Gunna sell (practically give) me an1998 jetta for $400. It doesn't run. How much could I get for it if i got it to run?
<br />Just ballpark estimates
<br />Thanks!:)<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>199x Jettas are junk - the real question is how much are you going to pour into it trying to get it run before you realize you have been played - <i>daSVgrouch</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>FOR 400 IF U GET IT FIXED AND RUN IT WOULD GET U TO PAY MORE GENIUS AND GEUSS WHAT AFTER U PAY THE FIX.... ITS GONNA BE LIKE 600 OF 500 OR SO AND THEN ITS NOT GONNA BE THAT MUCH OF A FUCKING DIFFERNCE COMPAREDTO A FUCKING NEW ONE. SO GET YOUR ASS TO THE STORE AND GET A NEW ONE OK ?? - <i>justin</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>well about 3,942 dollars is if u get 2 work and what the miles it has on it you would have to tell me that first and then i can tell u - <i>ilovedachunds</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>you wouldnt get the money back selling it that it would cost to get it to run... i would just try parting it - <i>David</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>According to Kelly Blue Book, (and I'm assuming this somewhere between the base model and the top of the line model,) you might be able to get 3,280 for it. That's assuming it's in "good" condition, and has 100,000 miles on the odometer.<br /><br />However, that being said, this car is 13 years old, and that, combined with the fact that it is a VW means that it probably would be pretty expensive to fix it. (Since it's older, parts are harder to find, and in general parts for foreign cars are kinda expensive).<br /><br />I don't know exactly what's wrong with the car, but chances are you're going to spend more money to fix it than it's worth. So, I wouldn't fix it with the intent to sell it for a profit. That being said, you can go to the website below and play with the options for this particular car and maybe you can get a better "ballpark estimate". Hope this helps! - <i>smart guy</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">is oil pan located next to plastic skid plate with allen wrench fitting for plug removal for VW TDI 2002?... Also, is it plastic? and is that the oil filter under the plastic lid at the top of the engine? weird! doing first oil change and was expecting a little weirdness with vw, not too bad though if that is where the oil pan is. hopefully i don't have to remove and plastic underneath to get to it. Is is made of plastic?? really?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>The plastic skid plate will need to be removed in order to remove the oil pan drain plug. If you remove the skid plate you will see the oil pan at the bottom end of the engine. It looks like every other oil pan. Nothing special from VW in the oil pan dept. - <i>Paul Aldridge</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Make sure you're using synthetic, diesel oil. Shell Rotella T6 is one of the most widely available oils acceptable for the 96-04 TDIs.
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<br />I usually just buy this when its time for an oil change: http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1059
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<br />That way I know I'm getting good oil, a high quality filter, and a new drain plug.
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<br />And here is a simple step-by-step how to for the oil change, http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=43346 it mentions a New Beetle TDI, but the engine is the exact same as the Golf or Jetta TDIs.
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<br />As this is your first change, make sure you're familiar with the rest of the maintenance schedule for the car. ALH TDIs can easily run 400,000+ miles if properly cared for. - <i>Richard R</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>The allen head drain plug you can see without removing the plastic splash guard is your transmission drain plug. Do not pull that unless you plan on replacing the trans fluid. - <i>gti_4cefed4</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>I know this doesn't answer your question, but that "skid plate" isn't to protect the engine so much as it reduces noise and improves aerodynamics.That's why it's plastic. Metal is heavy and they are going for efficiency. - <i>Louis G</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">How much would it cost to put bolts back in the transmission on a volkswagen? ?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>too much. - <i>sunset</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>What kind of bolts? What kind of tranny?
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<br />Heck, what kind of Volkswagen? - <i>vrsicks</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>What bolts? Axle? You got to pay what you got to pay. Maybe a beer; maybe some koochy-koo - <i>Minimal patience</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>I would assume you mean something like the CV join flange bolts came loose or something like that.
<br />And it should not take more than a half hour. If some bolt stripped out, then it could take an hour to install a heli-coil or something.
<br />And the going rate is something like $80/hour. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-6342631105296445492011-07-09T18:10:00.001-07:002011-07-09T18:10:21.610-07:00is the Volkswagen beetle the best car ever created?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">is the Volkswagen beetle the best car ever created?... the hitler machine, the slow lane hogger..... call it what you will but is the volkswagen the best car ever created? i mean a ferrari is great, but not off road. a land-rover is great off road but costly to keep on road. Jap cars are really reliable but you don't see many 1970 Jap cars on the road. So is the beetle the greatest feat in vehicle engineering? and if so why can't any car manufacturers create something as good nowadays?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Yes! I love them. :) - <i>Nicole H</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Scirocco is better - <i>Glenn Quagmire</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>The VW beetle was designed to easily fit a machine gun --so each and every one was to be ready for war. So was not intended to be the best- simply the most useful under the circumstances 'at that time'. - <i>stainless steven</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>I'm sure it will be at the top of the list. It was and still is a car that was cheap and fun to drive. It suffered the same fate as many other cars. The first was a 36 horse engine , it had no cam bearings so they improved it and came up with the 40 horse. This engine was great and if left alone would still be great but the public wanted more horse power and that started the down slide of the beetle. - <i>crzyfrank</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>just come back from Mexico, there are thousands of them, saloons, rag tops, pick ups, they must still make them there they look new, don`t know if they were the best the mini took some beating - <i>J R</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>All cars are designed for a specific purpose.
<br />Some for luxury some for off road, some for high mileage.
<br />The beetle was designed for the masses, and had many shortcomings.
<br />It was very popular because of its economy, but it had little else to offer. - <i>Rogue</i><br><br><font color="blue">7) </font>Yup, the old bug is a pretty useful old car, bags of character and still quite plentiful. One of the best ways into cheap classic motoring, I've had one before and I'd have another.
<br />Only other similar car I'd say rivals it is the Citroen 2CV, also a fantastic car if you can really drive properly. - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">8) </font>Everything the Nazis created and did was the best. - <i>Adolf</i><br><br><font color="blue">9) </font>Fiat 500 - <i>Magureanu</i><br><br><font color="blue">10) </font>In my opinion? Yes. The Type 1 was the best car I've ever been exposed to. Air cooled, points, and a single barrel. Simpler than any Honda, and very arguably much more reliable. Mine never left me stranded, or even broke down, for that matter. A little maintenance on the occasional weekend, keep the fan belt fresh, (very important) and run it wide open everywhere I went. Nothing else can take that. Me, her, two friends and a doggie in the very back. Good times!<br />Make something as good today? Of course they could. If they did it would last too long, hurting future sales. Sadly, simple quality may never be seen in the automobile industry again. - <i>Six String Bandit</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">What size tyres are on a vw golf 1.9 tdi 54 plate?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>15' 235/ 65 will fit. - <i>alex e</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Those cars can be fitted with 15 16 or 17 inch wheels, with around 20 different tyre sizes, if you own the car its easier to have a look, other than that drive it into a tyre depot and there gladly tell you - <i>M M M</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>What size of wheels are on it? - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>It all depends what size wheels you have. The 2 most common sizes on your vehicle would be either 195/65r16 or 205/55r16. If your not sure, the size is written on the sidewall of the tyre. Hope this helps. - <i>Jamie Seymour</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Ububtu 11.04 Fifi problem?... Ok so i recently installed ubuntu 11.04 on my laptop (im new to linux), and my wifi connection will work for a few minutes and then it will just disconnect. I have tried it with a cable and it works fine, but i need wifi because i normally have my laptop upstairs and can only use a cable downstairs.
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<br />No silly answers please.
<br />Thanks.<br />Ok i have a "Toshiba satellite l450d 14v"<br />And this is what i can find referring to my Fifi..<br /><br />description: Wireless interface<br /> physical id: 2<br /> bus info: usb@1:2<br /> logical name: wlan1<br /> serial: 00:21:91:93:ac:8d<br /> capabilities: ethernet physical wireless<br /> configuration: broadcast=yes driver=rt73usb driverversion=2.6.38-8-generic firmware=1.7 ip=192.168.1.70 link=yes multicast=yes wireless=IEEE 802.11bg<br /> <br />More info.. <br />I have tries my built in wifi and an external wifi card. and still no luck.<br /><br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>It would be useful to know the make & model of your laptop, and the WiFi card inside.<br /><br />Make sure you've got all the updates. Do that from your cable connection, for speed and reliability.<br /><br />Open a "Terminal" window, and type:<br /><br />sudo lshw<br /><br />(The first letter of the second word is lower case "L", as in "list hardware".) Find the block of text that refers to your wireless connection. Cut & Paste it into "additional information" on Y! Answers, and I'll take a look. Or, you can Google for information on that wireless hardware.<br /><br />EDIT 8-JUL-11, 12:36 EDT:<br />Thanks for the additional information. A Google search for:<br /><br />toshiba satellite l450d ubuntu wireless<br /><br />produces plenty of results. But nothing that jumps out at me as being directly relevant, as you are already using 11.04. Best thing I can recommend is to make sure you've got all of the updates installed.<br /><br />Read some of those Google results anyway; you might spot something I missed.<br /><br />Good luck. - <i>Joe</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>First I'd make sure Ubuntu is completely up to date, Second go to System -> Administration -> Hardware Drivers and make sure there's no proprietary drivers available for your card. Then you've got two choices.
<br />
<br />1. Troubleshoot (I'd do this first) Disable security on your wireless connection and see if it stays connected. if it does maybe try another encryption type.
<br />
<br />2. (Which I don't like to do) Use the Windows drivers. open a terminal
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<br />#sudo apt-get install ndisgtk
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<br />After ndiswrapper installs if you go to System -> Administration you'll have the option to Install Windows drivers. Once your in there it's pretty self explanatory. You just need to find out what driver you use in windows which shouldn't be hard. note: you'll be pointing it to the driver itself, NOT running a driver installation program. - <i>Stephen Natale</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>NO SILLY ANSWERS?
<br />YOU POSTED THIS QUESTION IN VOLKSWAGEN!? - <i>mchaz60</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">I have a 2000 vw Beetle, The AC works but only blows cold when I'm driving 40mph or more.?... The freon is full. Any ideas why?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>condenser fan isnt running, and only when you hit ~40mph the airflow is enough to cool the condenser and allow the ac to work<br /><br /><br />let the car sit overnight, then in the morning start it up, and turn on the ac, at least 1 fan should be running all the time - <i>nick</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>turn the key on with the a/c on look to see if both electric coolent fan are running.
<br />if they arent the first place to look is the little fuse block on top of the battery check the 3 small spade fuses they are all 30 amp pull they out and look at where they plug into the block for burnt spots, the coolent fans will not run if that fuse is burnt.
<br />if fuses are okay check for power at the fan with the a/c on
<br />those fuse blocks go bad all the time! - <i>Todd</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>It can be low. Buy one of the cans in the walmart Read directions and recharge. Small should be enough. - <i>alex e</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Whats wrong with my Jetta 1.8t . i need a mechanic to answer!!! lol?... So i have a 2001 jetta 1.8t & my engine light has been on for about a month. i know i know , well why why the hell haven't you gotten it checked . But a family friend said it was an oxygen thing so i just been driving it around like nothing. But sometimes i notice that my car lags on turning on, like it wont start till the 2nd, 3rd try. & when it does start the EPC light turns on .. and just recently i was driving & out of no were my car turns off when i was on the road about to turn, i was on neutral so my car was still going, the steering wheel got stiff and all. So all im asking is does anyone know the problem here? Or must i have to go to the dealer & ask them ? Anybody , anybody?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>sounds like your fuel supply is being cut off maybe fuel pump, or you could have a failing cat. converter if it is the oxygen sensor, go to an auto parts store they will give you a free check of your check engine light and help lead you in right direction without having the car in front of me and taking it for a test run i cannot readily determine the issue - <i>Kms Pathinder</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>You do not have to visit the dealer, you do need to get the fault code read by a repair shop with the correct diagnostic equipment. It may be something as simple as the oxygen sensor in the exhaust system and that will cost very little to fix and then your car will be fine. - <i>L G</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>need to find a good indepedent vw shop.
<br />one of 3 thing for the stalling, fuel pump going out
<br />fuel pump really they have issues but usally code and sent engine light, lots of short to ground codes injectors sec air evap
<br />crank position senser usally will code check engine light. - <i>Todd</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-40705515914795073802011-07-03T18:10:00.001-07:002011-07-03T18:10:20.246-07:00Is a catalytic converter on a 2001 jetta with 109k covered by any warrenties? warrenties?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Is a catalytic converter on a 2001 jetta with 109k covered by any warrenties? warrenties?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>The car is 11-12 years old and over 100,000 miles. Unless you bought some really expensive extended warranty, there is absolutely no chance that anybody will replace that for anything other than regular price.
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<br />Saw it off and use a bypass pipe. Take the old cat to a recycler and they will give good money for the precious metals inside the cat. - <i>Peter Drahozal</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>No chance. But it is only around $200 to replace. - <i>Surfer Blood</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>No, it is covered by a heat shield. Duh - <i>AubreyRecords</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>No and its expensive one of the first things i ever replaced, sorry your best bet is to get an original one from the dealerships and the near 1000$ because i bought two aftermarkets one wouldn't fit and another rust out in less then a year. good luck - <i>Mike Jennings</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Nope. Federal emissions warranty (which is the only one anyone ever pays attention to, since the aftermarket warranties never cover such things) runs out at 8 years/80,000 miles. - <i>Windowphobe</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>There are federal mandates set by the EPA which require manufactures to provide warranty coverage for emissions equipment for a minimum of 80,000 miles. The only part covered by VW for a longer period is the body of the car, which has a 12-year unlimited mileage warranty against rust and perforation.
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<br />Best bet to keep repair costs down and use quality parts is to buy a used OEM catalytic converter with low mileage from one of the VW forums' classifieds section. The dealership and some national chain repair shops will only legally be able to install brand new emissions equipment, so try the local shops first if you don't plan on doing the work yourself. - <i>gti_4cefed4</i><br><br><font color="blue">7) </font>You have to fight tooth and nail with vw for them to warrenty parts. Your out of luck buddy because of the age and mileage. VW will not warrenty cats beyond the 8/80k. 80,001 miles your out of luck. Bosal make an OEM Replacement cat. you can pick one up for around 400 dollars. And the VW RustWarranty is a joke too. - <i>E</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">Is a Volkswagon Beetle overall a good car to have?... Im looking to buy a used Volkswagen Beetle soon and I was just wondering if it is a good car to have? This would be my first car, and I am 19 if it makes a difference. Are Volkswagen Beetles safe and sturdy cars? Just wondering about peoples opinions on them... Thanks :)<br />awww really? I love this car so much, sad that it isnt that good :S<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>No, it's a bad car to begin with, on top of which, it's german, so maintenance is very expensive. - <i>Caolan C</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Yes if it is pre-1970 - <i>Ron</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>I would not recommend VW's, because they are unreliable. I would recommend anything Japanese. (Hondas, Toyotas, Subarus, Mazdas) Civics are definitely good cars if you are 19.
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<br />It all depends on what you feel comfortable with and like to drive. It would be good to get a copy of ConsmerReports buying guide on Used Cars and see what they say is reliable, safe, comfortable, and affordable. Out of what they recommend you should be able to find something you like. - <i>Adam's Auto Advice</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Would have been nice if you could have narrowed it down to the year.
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<br />I know up to 1973 Super Beetle (carburetored) 1600cc dual port air-cooled engine.
<br />Very reliable, long lasting motor.
<br />1970 -1600 cc motor single port carburetored air cooled - also long lasting motor
<br />1963 -1300 to 1500 cc motor single port carburetored air cooled used in dune buggies.
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<br />In any case, these cars were great for going fishing on the back-roads, or goat trails, or the vague hint of a trail. Rear wheel drive.
<br />Change spark plugs and points once a year and adjusted valves yourself and you are done for tune up. Never needed anything more than a bit of "tie wire", a couple blocks of wood of various shapes, and maybe some cigarette foil (in case a fuse blows) and you are good. No antifreeze/radiator or water-pump to worry about.
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<br />I believe after that they came out with fuel injection and not so good (breakdowns or you are always in the shop - again I believe that was the general complaint..
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<br />The water cooled "new beetle" was basically a beetle body put over a Rabbit/Jetta/Golf frame. Engine same as Rabbit/Golf/Jetta and electrical wiring the same. Rabbits/Jettas suffered a lot of electrical problems due to water leaking inside the car behind the fusebox and shorting out various components.
<br /> I would not drive it on the back-roads. Too much computerized B.S.. You basically have to take it in to be tuned up or fixed.
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<br />Where I drive, if the car broke down...no tow truck is gonna reach me >so the new cars are useless PoS for me when they have electronic controls<. That applies to any make.
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<br />[You got a pc. When it breaks, can you fix it ? Same deal.]
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<br />German made just like BMW and Mercedes. The seats are comfortable, you can sit in them all day and not hurt when you get out. Good for long hauls.
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<br />No car is "safe" when you are hit by a MACK truck head on or you decide to test out the strength of a concrete wall with the bumper. "Squashed like a fly on the windshield" - <i>Doing the Math</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>They're reliable, but when they need to be fixed, they are expensive. Make sure the one you are getting has cool air ($700-$900 fix, because you have to take the entire dash out) check the transmission (almost a $3000 fix) they aren't unreliable, just expensive if something does go wrong. - <i>Maymaybaybay</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">would a vr6 engine fit my 99 golf gls?... its the mk4 gls with a 2.0 and what modifications must i do<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>It proberly will, you would need the gearbox, engine wiring harness, braking system complete, exhaust system, and so on, never worth the agro, better off buying a vr6 on the road. The complications you would meet on the way would burn a big hole in your pockets, best of luck - <i>M M M</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>it would,,,but it is a lot of work,,,,cpu upgrade...suspension ....linkage ....trans.....wiring.....to me it not worth the trouble....better to get a gti with the v6 - <i>toyloy1</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>instead of spending the money in the vr6 upgrades id suggest going with a cheaper route and performance upgrade the 2.0 engine i have vw gl 2.0 and i suggest putting a neuspeed supercharger it makes a complete different car the cars is amazing, i added a few extra upgrades but that major part made the difference i run 15.0 quarter mile with the car which is about 2.7 seconds faster then a normal golf gl. good luck ! - <i>Mike Jennings</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Mm...Hope this helps! http://yisi.info/120718/engine-fitting - <i>Ming Verduzco</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">Whats the top speed of my VW dual port 1641cc motor.?... My VW motor has about 70-75 horse power! and i want to make it street legal but i would like to know what about the top speed is to see if its even worth it? the buggy only weighs about 1000lbs with the two riders in it.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>top speed has more to do with the gearing of the transaxle. and since its the stock tranny i assume? about 80 mph at 4500rpm. push it faster and your valves will 'float' and you will loose power and bog the engine down. - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Once you hit 95, you basically will (brown the shorts). The car does not handle well at that speed. It is not a race car. It is transportation. Or you could walk, after the cops lighten your wallet a couple of times. - <i>Doing the Math</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>1641cc isn't going to make 70 to 75 h.p. - <i>hotvw1914cc</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>1641 has 60 hp if you are lucky,the only up grade is from 85.5mm piston to slip in 87mm,not much hp gain over the stock 53hp.my son built a 2332cc air cooled motor with a 110 cam dual 44IDF webers,10:1 compression and cb performance 044 heads and is running around 200 hp in a rail buggy.and if you have the IRS trans you might have 3.73 gears,and the swing axle 68 had 4.10 gears as I hear.so top speed should be 70 -75 mph.my son ran his buggy at the drag stripe and ran 13.50 and 97 mph. - <i>KAM</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">EPC light, exhaust management light on on my VW Polo and brake lights out - what's wrong with it?... Driving and when the EPC light and exhaust management light came on. Later realised the brake lights weren't on. Car seems to work fine and starts up fine so I don't know what's wrong with it.
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<br />Any ideas what the problem might be?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Needs to be taken to a garage where they can diagnose the fault codes that are causing the warning lights to come on. The brake lights are probably unrelated but from a driving point of view is the far more serious fault.
<br />You'll have someone run into the back of you if you drive it like that. - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Your Epc lamp is on due to the Ecu detecting a fault with the brake lamp switch, Replace the switch and the EPC lamp will go out.
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<br />This guide for a Vw golf etc will help you in replacing your switch your self saving you money.
<br />http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1158315-DIY-Installing-a-new-brake-light-switch-(without-breaking-it!)
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<br />Vw polo brake lamp switch costs approx £6.00 if a garage fits it then it will cost you £35.00 - <i>turboextreme</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>this is the same thing that happened to me,
<br />started of with the one light,
<br />i was told to go to a vehicle diagnostic centre.
<br />now i have 3 lights on, but ive been told that the polo's are having alot of problems. - <i>Aneesa Amin</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-19195970400312294802011-07-01T18:10:00.001-07:002011-07-01T18:10:19.796-07:00first puncture resistant tyre?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">first puncture resistant tyre?... i think the first tyre that was punture resistant was made / used on cars in the mid 1980 s ???, i think it was so that if you did get a puncture !! you could still drive at about 30mph to get you home/nearest garage, is this right and if so what was the tyre called??<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>they were run flats , that's what they named the tyre but i'm not sure which manufacturer
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<br />BUT they were not the first , the first puncture proof tyres were in the eighteen hundreds (late) and early 1900s as they were made of solid rubber - <i>Francis</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>In 1974 the option of Dunlop Denovo run-flat tyres was offered on the Mini 1275 GT - <i>Fred3663</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Michelin used to produce some of their tyres for bigger cars such as Jaguar and BMW, about 20 years ago, with a lining of uncured rubber that would seal around a nail if the tyre got punctured. Continental currently also produce a similar tyre. They are not run-on-flat tyres, but just designed to not deflate. - <i>CDC</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Well, technically the very first tyres were puncture resistant because they were solid rather than inflatable, but the first mass market run flats in the UK were indeed Dunlop Denovo, have a look here..<br /><br />http://www.aronline.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=15834&start=0 - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Puncture resistant tires have been marketed at various times (Uniroyal Nailguard for example) but they don't actually work as advertised so don't last in the market long.
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<br />Run-on-Flat tires are different than puncture resistant tires. They are designed to be able to be driven on after air loss for limited speeds and distances. Developed in the mid-90's I believe the first application was the Corvette. They are now standard equipment on all BMW models and optional equipment on some other vehicles.
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<br />High cost, limited available and complaints of poor wear and ride quality have limited the appeal of this type of tire. - <i>JBF</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">Bought a 2001 Jetta VR6. What should I do to it first?... Looking for performance info. I know how to make a car look good.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>exhaust system. - <i>Scotty Boy</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Go sleeper for your first mod
<br />Get headers. - <i>Murdered out Spec V</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>First of all some maintenance, have the camshaft aka timing chains and belt have been done yet? If not, you can kiss that sweet sounding engine good bye once you put on all the performance add-ons.
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<br />Exhaust is one thing, free up the intake is another. You may want to do the suspension as well. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>FIRST?
<br />GET YOURSELF A NICE KEY CHAIN. - <i>mchaz60</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Regular Gas in an 08 Passat?... I only need this car to commute 20 miles everyday to and from school (mostly highway and some city driving) and am not interested in exceptional, racing-grade performance. Would it be possible to fill this car up with 87 octane gasoline and have few problems down the line? What sort of problems (besides the usual ones of automobile ownership) will I be facing? Will avoiding those problems outweigh the price of fueling up with premium?
<br />Many Thanks,
<br />-EL<br />The car is a 2.0L 4-cyl. engine with automatic transmission (TURBO model.)<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>There's nothing wrong with burning 87 octane. Higher octane would just be wasting money. - <i>Welcome to my Nightmare</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>I would not recommend it. Although it has knock sensors, prolonged use can wear out the engine. Besides, it can take 91 octane or higher, and also your gas mileage will be better with the 91. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Actually, it is recommended that your car take 91 octane, or premium. It should say so on the gas flap itself.
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<br />I have an 07 Passat with the same 2.0T. All of VW and Audi cars with that engine require premium fuel. Your engine may begin to run rougher or develop knocking noises if you don't use 91. - <i>vrsicks</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">What size of allen wrench do you need to undo the calipers on a 2006 Jetta?... My dad is doing the brakes on the 2006 Volkswagon Jetta TDI, but we are unsure on what size of wrench is required to undo the calipers.
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<br />Does anyone know what size is required?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>I think it is a 8mm spline drive (8 point bit) - <i>Robert P</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>its an 7mm allen key - <i>nick</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>if you're just changing pads and not rotors you wont need the 14mm triple square and there is no allen wrench usage for this job. All you need is a 16mm and 13mm wrench. - <i>nellus Rivers</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Question for anyone with a gen 6 Golf or Jetta TDI!?... I'm looking at a new Golf TDI and was just wondering some of the real world gas mileage figures where from people who have actually calculated them. Also, does anyone know if VW has plans to bring the start/stop auto shutoff from the bluemotion over to the American TDI?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>no sorry i dont know that one. - <i>Roberto</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Auto shutoff will not come to the US TDi's. As for fuel figures, you are looking at high 40's low 50's if not pushed hard. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>As an actual 2010 Golf TDI owner... I can tell you that MY real world fuel economy, over the first 45 fill ups, covering 22,018 miles through the West Virginia mountains is 40.2 mpg. Your mileage will vary, greatly. Head over to http://www.tdiclub.com and there are some that live out in Kansas, Texas, anywhere that its flat, and can pull in high 40s with ease, others are stuck with a lot of city driving, stop and go traffic, and are happy if they can get 30.
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<br />You're welcome to check out my fuelly account where you can see my tank by tank numbers, you can also search for other Golfs, Jettas, etc from 2009+ to see what kind of numbers others are reporting.
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<br />http://www.fuelly.com/driver/reechardwvu/golf-2 - <i>Richard R</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-21462670533417636842011-06-27T18:10:00.001-07:002011-06-27T18:10:20.279-07:00What does this warning light mean on my 2008 VW Jetta?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">What does this warning light mean on my 2008 VW Jetta?... It is a cirlce with an explanation point inside with three dashes coming out of the circle on each side in different directions. I lost my owners manual and would like to know what this means. Thank you!<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>I'm not exactly sure, but I have a similar warning symbol on my Rav4 that indicates that one of my tires has low air pressure. - <i>Vincent Evangelista</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Possibly a light out on front or rear,e.g brake light bulb. Not 100% sure but would assume VW still under Warranty and may fix for free, also they can get you a new owners manual. - <i>Gary</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>If it looks like this it is a bulb out indicator: http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/blink_amoulthia/warninglight.jpg - <i>gti_4cefed4</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Bulb out warning.
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<br />How do you lose an owner's manual?
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<br />http://www.google.com/search?hl=af&biw=1024&bih=640&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=Jetta+2008+warning+lights (performed a Google Image search with the term "Jetta 2008 warning lights") - <i>Chris</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">70 vw 1600cc single port Help////?... i want to upgrade a 70 vw bus engine 1600cc,single port..
<br />;;;;;;;headers,,,solex prog 2bbl carb,,,87pistons,,,,scat c35 cam,,electronic distb
<br />what else do i nead to have running and not overheat the engine<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>First thing you want to do is lose the single-port heads. Nothing else matters if your motor can't breathe. It'd be like you trying to snorkel through a soda straw. Get a good set of dual-ports.
<br />Next: swap to a late-style fan shroud with a larger oil cooler, & keep all your cooling tin intact. The Bus motor normally comes with a -050 distributor, which has a retarded #3 lobe, which helps that cylinder run cooler. Stick with it, or convert it to electronic, rather than buying a complete distributor. DO NOT use a 'power pulley". They make your fan run slower, & thus give poorer cooling.
<br />Last: Make certain your thermostat (Yes, they DO have a 'thermostat': It's a bi-metal bellows-looking thing between the 2 even cylinders with a control rod to the shutters) is in good shape, & your fan shroud shutters are working properly.
<br />I've run up to 1850cc without cooling issues. - <i>schizophreniabeatsdiningalone</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>VW did not make a 70 single port motor they converted to the 1600 dual port heads in 69,if you have a single port intake the motor is a 1200 or 1300, the 1500 and 1600 had dual port heads,the bore size is different and the stroke is different on the single port heads they have a 64 stroke instead of the 69,with 83mm or 85.5 so check out appletreeautomotive.com or cbperformance.com for heads and pistons and changing you point's dist.to electronic ignition.set of forged slip in 87mm piston set is 395.00 heads cost 286 each,cam is 89.00 go with the 110 cam with straight cut gears,and 69mm counter weight crank with 8 dowel pin's.and have the piece of aluminum welded to the back of the block behind number 3 cylinder for more strength,and run an external oil cooler with a fan can get one from summitracing.com for around 145.00. - <i>KAM</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>First off, by reading the first line of KAM's answer i know not to read the rest. never made a 1970 1600sp???? WRONG. there was only 1 year for 1600sp and that was 1970. in 1969 they still were running 1500cc single ports.
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<br />you dont need anything else. just keep oil in it and make sure the thermostat is working properly and all of the engine tins are in place. make sure its timed right and use 30W oil. thats all - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">What does putting a baja kit, and bigger tires, on an older vw bug do to the mileage?... I'm looking to get an older vw bug, and I'd really love to put a baja kit and a/t tires on it, but I dont want to sacrifice too much mileage. What would adding that do to it?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>That would be pretty sweet! If you stay with the stock tire size it shouldn't change too much at all. But it all depends on the size tire. The bigger you go the less mileage you'll get and the more wear n tear on your drivetrain. But if you re-gear your differential the tires will turn a lot easier for that small motor which in turn will bring back some MPG's. Hope that helps! - <i>Rob Pelletier</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Mileage was not all that hot as you have to drive them wide open most of the time. - <i>doane_nut</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>The body kit might give you more drag, resulting in an insignificant mileage penalty. The oversize tires would hurt more. They give the illusion of having a taller gear in the car, meaning although your revs are lower at 60, the engine is actually working harder to maintain speed.
<br />Better idea? Stick with tires the same diameter, but are wider & look more aggressive. With the suspension raised, the effect is pretty cool. I actually had a set of H-70-15 (225-70R-15) belted snows on Centerlines on the back of mine for the winter. I run 245-60's in the summer. - <i>schizophreniabeatsdiningalone</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">how many cars has Volkswagen sold?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>well they sold about 22,000,000 air-cooled Beetle's alone. so a fair guess would be 35,000,000 to 40,000,000+ - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Today, this month, this year, since the company started building cars? North America, worldwide?
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<br />If it's that general, I'll go for all sales across all models and guess upwards of 30 million. - <i>Chris</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Where can i find a center console and a few other misc. parts for a 1990 VW Fox?... I am in need of a center console for a 1990 VW Fox with a 4 speed tranny. I can't find anything anywhere. Or what other VW car parts will fit on a Fox? I aslo need a new glove box door. Thanks.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>local salvage yards or ebay - <i>whata waste</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>I doubt an junk yards are holding onto those pieces of junk. - <i>doane_nut</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-42674710457998387862011-06-19T18:10:00.001-07:002011-06-19T18:10:25.474-07:00is a 1973 VW Beetle a good car?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">is a 1973 VW Beetle a good car?... i'm looking for my first car, and found a 1973 Beetle. it had a nice restored interior and original yellow paint, and little visual rust. do you think this iis a good first car? im worried about maintenance and reliability. what do you think?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>No. By todays standards they are maintenance nightmares and deathtraps.<br /><br />Why the thumbs down? Air cooled brags about how reliable his VW bug is and then says "every 3000 miles you MUST, change oil and clean oil strainer, adjust valves, adjust carburetor if necessary, adjust brakes, check plug gap, points and condenser, adjust clutch pedal free play if necessary, and some other thing. not to mention you need to check the oil level at least twice a week and add as needed" That's what I call a maintenance nightmare. I have 60,000 miles on my 2008 Chevy and other than changing the oil every 6,000 miles the only thing I have ever done is put gas in it and bought one set of tires. <br /><br />My Chevy has air bags, anti lock brakes, stability control, and does 0-60 in under 7 seconds. The VW takes almost 16 seconds making it dangerous to even take on the interstate. Get hit in the front in a VW at 20 mph and your probably going to lose your feet if you're lucky enough to survive. Many people walk away from 50 mph collisions in modern cars uninjured. - <i>Howard L</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Unfortunately, no. It could be a very hazardous vehicle, the security features that they come equipped with is hardly much by todays standards. You're better of going with something in the 2000s+, and if money is an issue, you can find many cars better then the VW '73 for under $2500.00 (Such as a used Jetta). - <i>Andrew Turko</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>One reason that the old bugs were so popular was the ease of repair and a ready supply of used parts. In short they are not reliable, however they can be repaired by almost any one who has any mechanical sense.
<br />As for a good first car, yes (provided you don't mind getting your hands dirty keeping it running).
<br />Safety is a big issue!
<br />Some claim Ralph Nader wrote the book "Unsafe at Any Speed" about the VW bug and was forced to switch the car in question from the Bug to the Corvair by the US State Department. These cars have handling quirks when pushed. The gas tank is up front, and leaking gas in a collision is a given. Fuel leaks can result in engine fires more readily because the engine is air cooled.
<br />That said a lot of us outlived our VW bugs in spite of them, because as in all things automotive the primary problem is not the car but the owner/driver. - <i>Old Man Dirt</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Old Man Dirt has it spot on! Cheap and easy to run and maintain, easy to modify as it's basically a Posche chassis, and as long as you drive it like a 1973 car and not a 2003 car, you'll be fine! It's a great little car that while not the safest in a high speed crash (not that "high speed" really applies to the Beetle!), is far more fun and unique to drive around in than the copycat little boxes most people choose as their first car! - <i>Neil B</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>i dont know where these other people get off say they are not reliable. they obviously do not own or drive one everyday, i do. the engine is air-cooled so as long as all the engine cooling parts in place, the engine will NEVER overheat even in 120F weather. parts are cheap and available at any parts store. they are also fun and easy to drive. Since ive owned my 1970 (almost 2 years) ive put about 9300 miles on it. I drove my 1970 bug 300 miles last week. 135 of those miles were continuous, no stopping at all, just driving at 60mph. and its the original 41 year old engine that has never been rebuilt with 82800 miles and running as strong as it did in 1971.
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<br />they do require more maintenance than modern cars. and if you dont do it yourself you will be spending a lot of money on mechanics bills. every 3000 miles you MUST, change oil and clean oil strainer, adjust valves, adjust carburetor if necessary, adjust brakes, check plug gap, points and condenser, adjust clutch pedal free play if necessary, and some other thing. not to mention you need to check the oil level at least twice a week and add as needed.
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<br />safety features.....well they have seat belts and thats about it. no crumple zones, airbags, roll over protection, reinforced doors power steering, power brakes or disc brakes. you have to drive a bug like you are in a glass car. be equally as defensive as aggressive because a lot of people i encounter on the road dont care that my car is slower, or less safe than theirs, they still cut me off and stop short. just keep an extra long following distance, especially in rain or snow. - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>No, not the 1973's. That was the first year they put pollution control ducts on the engine, and it was a nightmare.
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<br />The VW bugs up until 1970 were pretty good. Sure, they broke down a lot, but they were easy to fix. They don't have oil filters, so you have to change the oil every 1000 to 1500 miles, but that's pretty simple. Just undo the bolt under the engine, let the oil drain, replace the plug, and refill. Simple.
<br /> The valves need to be adjusted more frequently because it's an air-cooled engine. Luckily, it's a simple job that can be done quickly, once you get the hang of it. Back when I had my 1970 and 1966 bugs, I could do a complete tune-up (replace 4 spark plugs, condenser, adjust valves) and clean the air cleaner and change the oil in 45 minutes. Of course, the first time I tried, it took me 2 days -- I had completely removed the distributor (don't do this!) and put it back in backwards, lol . . . .
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<br />What you need before you buy a VW bug is a copy of the book, "How to keep your VW alive, a Guide for the Compleat Idiot" by John Muir. It'll explain lots of stuff, save you lots of $$$, and keep you rolling.
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<br />But anyway, the 1973's were terrible, mostly because of the pollution control devices. It was VW's first attempt to reduce emissions (BTW, my mom had one, so I'm familiar with it). The Feds also had a requirement that the emergency brake be illuminated, so VW put a pitiful little light under the dash pointed right at the yellow plastic handle. The light didn't fix anything, but then you'd have to be pretty dense not to know where the emergeny brake handle was. - <i>David</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">What should I do to start a 1974 VW bus that hasn't been run in 5 years?... It is a dual carb engine, and the gas has been sitting in there for at least that long. what should i do to make it run and fix it up? I know this is somewhat vague, but I really just need a first starting point.
<br />thanks.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Empty the gas from the gas tank, Change the oil, Get a new or god battery, and new air filters. If it dont sart then check the spark plugs and wires and coil - <i>James Smith</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>First of all does it spin freely? Meaning that you grasp the base of the fan, and turn it.<br />If it does, the following needs to be done.<br />-Drain the fuel tank, and have it cleaned<br />-Replace the spark plugs, coil and wires<br />-Change the oil<br />-Clean the carburetors<br />-Charge/replace the battery<br />-Change the fuel filter and air filter<br />-Fill the cleaned tank with fresh gas<br /><br />Then again, you may need a charged battery, fresh fuel, and that rig may just start, it has happened. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Read "Zits" from about a year ago and do what Hector and Jeremy did. - <i>kenny k</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Set the e-brake, and put the vehicle in neutral. I'd say first check that the engine has not seized up during that period. You should be able to turn it over by hand using large breaker bar and socket on the fan pulley nut. Ensure the fan belt's in good shape and that the alternator/fan assembly turn and are not seized or blocked from turning freely. Ah- check for critters which may have nested in the engine compartment or fan housing. It's a common thing to happen! Check that the points are set properly and that the fuel the engine is to get is clean and not contaminated with water. Use a freshly charged battery and finally, try to start the engine. You may have to prime the carburetor with a little gasoline.
<br />Good luck! - <i>tennisballeddie</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">What can i do to improve the performance of my VW Bus?... I am an owner of a 1970 VW Bus and enjoy driving it however, i am not a mechanic and i wanted to get some opinions things i could do to modify my car to make it run better overall. Suggestions along with an approximate price estimate as to how much it would cost are greatly appreciated, thanks<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>New aftermarket camshaft
<br />
<br />New aftermarket induction parts (e.g. air filter)
<br />
<br />New exhaust system.
<br />
<br />Make the van lighter by emoving unneccessary things.
<br />
<br />Take it in for a service.
<br />
<br />All will improve speed and horsepower. - <i>Ben Cole</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>all it takes is money, you can add some performance modifications, it depends on what engine you have already, I know years ago they used to sell a big daddy kit for vw that pumped it up into a good strong engine, you can go single or dual cabs, with some exhaust modification that worked well and sounded better. If money is not a problem, there is a Porsche engine that was a bolt in back then. It was aw some it transformed a clattering noisy bus into this whisper quiet vehicle that whooshed past you going up a hill, (which those of us who had buses did not do any whooshing up hills anyway) I will do some checking on line and see what I find out<br />ADDITIONAL DETAILS<br />there are a lot of vw parts places, depending on what you are looking for, its a matter of researching what you want. A stock fresh 1,600 would probably work fine, or you can go bigger it all depends on how much cash you wanted to spend. something else I remembered about some older engines was it was a good idea to adjust the valves with each tune up which not every body did. but nowadays you can turbocharge a vw motor and make a real powerhouse out of one. do your research, find some vw forums and talk to the people who have already done what you want to do. best of luck. - <i>roger</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Trying to add horsepower will shorten life span, so I don't recommend that.
<br />What I do recommend is moving the oil cooler to an external location, so that you don't preheat cylinder #3 any more.
<br />It also would not hurt to add a spin on oi filter and deep oil sump while you are at it. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Information.
<br />
<br />Get yourself a copy of John Muir's book, "How to keep your volkswagon alive, a guide for the compleat idiot" . . . It's a basic guide on how to fix a lot of things that will go wrong with your VW, and is full of info on how to keep it running well.
<br />
<br />The air-cooled VW's need frequent oil changes because they don't have oil filters. If you were to make one modification to your bus, adding an external oil cooler and oil filter would be the very best thing you could do. Then, you should learn how to adjust the valves. Sure, it sounds intimidating to a mechanical novice, but keeping the valves properly adjusted is the other very very important thing you gotta do. It the valves are too loose, the engine sounds like it's full of crickets. If the valves are too tight, the engine will overheat and burn up. But once you learn how to do it, the whole process goes pretty quick.
<br />
<br />Also, keep in mind that the VW bus wasn't designed as a racing or performance vehicle. Zero - to - sixty isn't supposed to impress anyone; the engines only have about 67 horsepower. You're doing good to climb a steep hill with passengers.
<br />
<br />If your heater is still working, you might want to look around in your leisure time and see if you can find replacement heater parts, just to have on hand for when they do go out. Just a thought . . .
<br />
<br />Best wishes, - <i>David</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">2003 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 underpowered?... Just test drove this car. On the surface it didn't seem too underpowered, but there are a lot of reviews saying the car is "severely" or "horribly" underpowered with the 115 hp engine. I mean, it was a bit slow going up a really steep hill but it seemed to pick up fine and all. I'm mostly going to be in a flat city in a different state, with a few long highway trips throughout the year to go back and forth. I can get a great deal on the car. Should I do it? Will I be able to cruise at 80/85 on the highway?<br />It's 2.0L Automatic, GLS Trim<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>The vintage Beetles that you see people driving around had less than 40HP and they get around fine. Driving a Mico Bus with the same engine and trying to pass a semi-trailer on the highway is another story though! Anyways, the engine is more than enough power to get you around town, and will certainly get up to 85 MPH without any trouble at all. The 2.0L 8V is the most reliable gasoline engine that VW ever produced, while it's not a screamer like the 1.8T or VR6, for the size of a Jetta it works just fine. - <i>gti_4cefed4</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>gti 4, is correct, however in the tuner crowd, the 2.0 litre is commonly called a "2slow." It'll do the job, albeit slow. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Hope this helps! http://addlife.info/190185/just-test - <i>Alene Benson</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>It will be more than enough power in the city. If you end up doing lots of long trips you might be annoyed with the lack of get up and go for passing! - <i>12977</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Are VW Polos quite cheap to insure?... I'm looking for my first car, and I know which cars are cheap to insure, but was wondering whether VW polos are cheap to insure, as I seem to be getting quotes ovr £2000 for majority of the cars I'm browsing.
<br />I know that polo's are fairly cheap and reliable and I love them :)
<br />Thanks.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>The polo will not be cheap.....
<br />
<br />Best thing to check the price is by going to one of the price comparison sites...
<br />type in all your details as if you had bought the car already and see what prices are quoted..
<br />you are under no obligation to buy .. - <i>Charlie Farley</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>The base model Polos are fairly cheap as far as they go, but the reason you're getting quotes of £2,000 is that's what it costs for a new driver to insure any car these days.
<br />A Polo will be the same. - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>i am 19, i have a mk4 6n2 polo 1.0
<br />
<br />first year was 2500
<br />
<br />second year was 1000
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<br />hope this gives you a rough idea.. - <i>LoveLiveLife</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>VW FOX is a real insurance bargain currently and a very nice small car. I would go for a FOX if low cost insurance is No1. They are as good as a Polo use to be before the Polo's started getting as big as the old Golf use to be (if you get my drift - a FOX is really a modern equivalent of the old model Polos).
<br />
<br />This is a really handy web tool: Parkers - Find a car insurance group
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<br />http://www.parkers.co.uk/insurance - <i>Rich Tea</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-37273242634904375502011-06-16T18:10:00.001-07:002011-06-16T18:10:25.785-07:00Why are the VW the cheapest of all German cars ?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Why are the VW the cheapest of all German cars ?... i wanna get something used for under $7000, do u recommend this brand?
<br />P.S : dont recommend toyotas or hondas, bored from them !!<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Vw's don't come packed with all the luxury like bmw or mercedes does. - <i>hmmintereseting</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>It has got smaller cc capacity compared to other models. - <i>M.j Lim</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>They were made to be cheap :P
<br />
<br />I have VW from 1996, and its great. So yes I recommend a VW.
<br />
<br />But a toyota is gonna be better, just saying. They last so freaken long. - <i>John F</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Its in their tag line, the people's car <br />Nowadays, its "Das Auto"<br /><br />Note<br />VW is also the parent company that owns:-<br />1. Lambo<br />2. Audi<br />3. Bentley<br />4. Porsche<br />5. Bugatti<br />These are not cheap cars, OK.<br />By the way, the Polos, Jettas and Golf GTi are some of the best cars in Europe. - <i>Spunkiee</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>There are several reasons:
<br />-They produce at the highest volume (they make more cars than BMW or Mercedes).
<br />-They produce in various countries (Germany, USA, Mexico, Brazil).
<br />-Their cars are engineered and built to a lower standard than Audi or their competition.
<br />-Their volume models are built more cheaply, with a lower standard level of amenities than their premium level competition.
<br />
<br />To answer your second question, it depends on where you live. I would not recommend a VW in your price range if you are in the USA and do not have much experience working on cars. Their US models are built in Mexico to a very low standard, and their reliability is very poor. Especially avoid Mark IV Jettas. I have seen far too many problems with these cars to recommend them to anyone. - <i>CH4RL13foxtrot</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>Because this plant produce car for every one, so it named Volkswagen . - <i>金双</i><br><br><font color="blue">7) </font>I have a 99 new beetle and honestly i don't recommend any vw cars. they have so many electrical problems and they are so expensive to fix. you also have to find a great mechanic that specializes in vw
<br />
<br />My ignition switch just burnt and because of that my horn, alarm, radio, headlights, daylights, turn signals, and wipers didnt work anymore. It cost $500 to fix
<br />
<br />my abs went out at the same time its $1000 to fix that
<br />
<br />my radiator fan isnt working its $400 for that
<br />
<br />and my a/c isnt blowing cold air and its $920 to fix that
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<br />i bought my car for $3200, def not worth it - <i>Jennifer</i><br><br><font color="blue">8) </font>VW is an inexpensive car because it tries to be reliable instead of constantly changing models and styles, and trying to get every last hp out of it.
<br />
<br />But all dealer are always expensive, and what makes VW so great is that there are so many good independent mechanics that you don't have to take it to the dealer.
<br />
<br />For example, an ignition switch should be less than $100 to fix.
<br />While ABS costs thousands to fix on most cars, on VW it costs only hundreds.
<br />Radiator fans can be $400 on many cars, but you can get one done on a VW for about $150.
<br />AC can cost thousands on some cars, but on VW it should only cost a few hundred. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">what is the towing capacity of my 2001 vw golf TDi?... <br />(It's NOT in the manual)<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>I can't imagine it being more than like 1000 pounds. - <i>Chris</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>if you are an experienced driver and have towing experience then it can be as much as the weight of the unladen car. so its probably around a ton, check your handbook. if its a caravan you will tow make sure that you get a stabiliser and only 75% of the car weight is recommended for new towers. - <i>brilock1</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Go to Uhaul.com i think they got a rough estimate on how much your car can tow. - <i>Bryan Robles</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>1,200kg braked trailer or 500kg non braked. - <i>DrkLce</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>RTFM - it's in there. - <i>Chris</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">how do i know if my 1974 vw super beetle is overheating?... i live in tucson az and its in the high 90s. i just bought the vw and not to sure how i would know if its overheating. it runs great just want to make sure i know so if it does i know when and what to do about. any help would be great!<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>LIkely not as the engine is air cooled. Just keep a close eye on the oil level weekly and make sure the generator belt is tight. - <i>James M</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Hook up an oil temperature gauge. The cooling systems are somewhat fickle on the old air cooled bugs, so you should keep an eye on it.
<br />
<br />http://www.type2.com/library/cooling/coolsami.htm
<br />http://www.performancechoice.com/pc.html?frame=5.4553
<br />http://www.upmpg.com/car_clubs/vw.htm - <i>doane_nut</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Standard shift? Then don't drive in 4th when you should be driving in a lower gear. The fan is always running blowing air past the piston pots so running in a lower gear will keep it cool as the engine is running faster.(so the fan blow harder)
<br /> Always make sure that the crankcase has the correct grade of oil as it is the oil that also reduces the temperature. I have never had an overheating problem and yeah I have been driving in the high 90's(even 125) here, but don't forget the car engine is normally a lot hotter(as it is burning gasoline) in order to run -(even in the winter).
<br />
<br />Getting caught in traffic tie ups for long periods of time on a slow idle, will heat up the engine more so. If you can cruise, not a big deal. Leave it as the dealer mechanics set it and make sure the air duct hoses to the dog house are always in good shape and firmly secure. Also that all the sheet metal is in place and that the spark plugs have their boots on to close off the spark plug openings.
<br />And that the V belt that turns over the alternator(or generator) is always in good shape and that you have a spare(as the back of the alternator inside the dog house is the fan)
<br />
<br />Your good.
<br />
<br />If it overheats(it would be a first) the red oil light comes on on the speedo. At that time either rev the motor so that the oil pressure is increased and the light goes out or shut it down. - <i>Doing the Math</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>They ran these air cooled engine in the the Sahara Desert with no problem. The air temperature is minor compared to the normal operating temperature, so make little difference.
<br />But the idea of the oil temp gauge was a good one.
<br />I would also suggest adding the kit to relocate the oil cooler, while adding a spin on oil filter.
<br />A deep oil sump is not a bad idea either, as long as ground clearance is not an issue.
<br />The original oil cooler acted like a preheater for cylinder #3, so was not in a good location. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>a good quick cheap (free) test is the dip-stick test. if you can take the dip-stick out and hold it in your hand for a few seconds then its not overheating. by that i mean, enough time to pull it out and read the oil level. by that time it will be very uncomfortable and you will want to put it back. thats normal. if you cant even bare to touch it, let alone take it out, its too hot. this is an old VW mechanics trick that has been used for years. or like others say buy an oil temp gauge and sensor and mount it in the oil pressure relief valve in the bottom of the engine, NOT in the oil pressure sensor. - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">How easy is it to work on an old VW Beetle?... I am a small engine mechanic (lawnmowers, chainsaws, etc) but I don't have any experience with cars.
<br />
<br />As long as I had a good manual, would I be able to do engine/repair work by myself?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>The old veedub flat 4 is about as easy to work on as it is possible to get. Don't bother with the 1200 lump though as the case is physically smaller than the others and it is possible through changing of cylinders/pistons/carb etc to turn a 1300 into a 1641cc with little effort.
<br />There are 2 books I would recommend. "How to keep your Volkswagen alive" by John Muir (informative and funny) and "How to rebuild your Volkswagen aircooled engine" by Tom Wilson (ISBN 0-89586-225-5) - <i>PAUL</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>go out an buy this book it is called "the complete idiot repair manual for vw's"cost is 34.00,every thing you need to know on how to fix the old Volkswagon bug's. - <i>KAM</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>how easy? near me there are 2 old guys that restore them. and when i say old i mean old, the one guy is 84 and the other guy 78. they do all the work by themselves. that should put it in perspective for you. all you need is a few metric wrenches and you can take the entire car apart. like the others have said get this...http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step---Step/dp/1566913101/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1308160411&sr=8-1
<br />
<br />and this...http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Beetle-Karmann-Official-Service/dp/0837616239/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1308160434&sr=8-7
<br />
<br />and you can do it. - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>That book by John Muir kinda sucks, IMO.
<br />
<br />Anyway, come over to thesamba.com and join the forums.
<br />Another great site is vw-resource.com
<br />
<br />Very easy to work on and parts prices are still pretty good, just avoid Chinese junk. Good luck - <i>Jay S</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">what kind of transmission oil for vw beetle 1300?... i dont have a clue how to change the oil of what oil to put in my volkswagen beetle 1300?<br />its engine and transmission oils! also how do you change the transmission fluid <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Engine oil or transmission? If I am not mistaken, the transmission takes 30 weight gear oil. As for the engine, you drain the oil, clean the strainer, replace the gasket, and fill it with the about six or so pints of 10W30 or 10W40 Dino (not synthetic) motor oil. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>The transaxle has large 19 mm indented hex plug that you need a large allen wrench for.
<br />One on bottom for draining, and one on the side for filling.
<br />It uses the same as any car of that period, with is 80w90 hypoid gear oil.
<br />
<br />The engine works best with 20w50 engine oil. I prefer Castrol. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>yeah drain for oil is on bottom of transmission and the fill plug is on the left side of the transmission (as you look at the engine from the back)
<br />
<br />any 80-90W is good for the transmission
<br />
<br />as for the engine VW recommended using 30W oil. i use Castrol HD SAE30 - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-85000602731178666042011-06-14T18:10:00.001-07:002011-06-14T18:10:28.315-07:00Whats the "safe code" to get my VW stereo to work?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Whats the "safe code" to get my VW stereo to work?... I bought my 2006 VW Passat 2.0T in 2006 with its origional stock 6 CD changer Stereo in it. About a month after I bought a new Pioneer Navigation System GPS and had it installed and saved the stock stereo incase I wanted to sell it or put it back in later. Well my sister's dad is as blind as a bat and wanted to put himself to use and clear all the "junk" out of the garage, and threw out my pretty much brand new stereo. Now, I plan on re-selling my car and getting something else, I bought a stock stereo from someone who actually put a nav just like mine in his 2005 VW Golf I think it was. But now that Ive taken my car to replace with that VW stereo, it needs a code to have it work.
<br />
<br />Does anyone know this "safe code", or what I can do to get it so it works in my 2006 Passat?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Why would there be a "safe code", then there would be no point to having a unique code for each radio. - <i>doane_nut</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>The code is set to something different on each radio installed, so there is no way anyone can tell you what it is. Your original one could be looked up either in the owner's manual or in the dealer's records, but you have a different one now anyway.
<br />
<br />However, there is a solution. The code can easily be reset to something different. Anyone selling that brand of radio can do it. And VW is not the best place to do that. If the radio is Blaupunkt for example, then a radio installer who sells Blaupunkt would be the one to do to. VW does not make their own radios. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>What you need to do, is go down to the VW dealer, and have them run a VAG-COM on it. It's going to cost some bills, but that is the only way. Didn't the seller of the stock stereo give you the code? - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Mm...Here you are. http://liwu.info/61045/cd-changers - <i>Mary Campos</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">VW 1600 MOTOR ISSUES?... My buggy has a VW 1600 engine and it does not run smooth. I have a rebuilt carb, new spark plugs, wires,new distributer, new fuel filters, new fuel lines, adjusted the valves, checked the timing, completely re-wired everything....and this motor still runs horrible. I have to push the throttle all the way to get into first gear, then 2nd gear pops and crackels, and I havent gotten beyond that. The Carb has been adjusted and for some reason it feels like it is starved of fuel. We checked the fuel lines and there is pressure and the fuel pump works great. After all this work, we cant figure out why it runs horrible. Any Suggestions?<br />The firing order is correct. We checked the many times just in case. The Carb was rebuilt by a friend. We checked for vaccum leaks and there were none. I have not tried the fuel pressure test, so I will check that out. Any other suggestions? Why would 2nd gear pop and crackle so much when 1st gear doesnt?<br />The distributor is a BOSCH with adjustable advance/mechanical weights. Its Solex carb 34 pic -3. The engine is a 1978 or 79. We adjusted the timing and it advances 8 degrees. We were told that is good. <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Make sure the wiring on the coil (the little ones) are not reversed. Check engine vacuum to see if it is normal and actually measure the fuel pressure with a gas to see what it reads. Who rebuilt the carb and are you sure that it is really functioning as it should?<br /><br />A clue a clue!!! Second gear popping and crackling at a higher rpm might indicate that the timing is advancing too far too fast or maybe not at all. Is this an aftermarket distributor with an adjustable advance/mechanical weights or vacuum can? If its a canister undo the vacuum line to the distributor and plug it and see what happens when you drive it. If it gets better check your advance curve or for something wrong with the distributor if nothing changes make sure that that line is actually pulling enough vacuum to move the advance mechanism in the distributor.<br /><br />******************************************New Entry*****************************************************************<br />You may have identified the problem and 6-8 would be good for the mechnical advance but the total timing needs to be around 28-32 adjusting up or down for a balance between performance and engine ping. Check out the below procedure for an 009 distributor and make adjustments if/as needed and let us know how it turns out. <br /><br />Rob's 009 Timing Procedure<br />First, set the maximum advance with a timing light -- engine speed at least 3000 rpm (see the Strobe Timing Procedure). Try 30 degrees at 3000 rpm first, and let the idle timing fall where it may.<br /><br />Note: Maximum advance is much more important than idle advance. For the aircooled VW engine and 009 distributor, the maximum advance MUST be between 28 and 32 degrees at 3000+ rpm. The 009 distributor is usually set at 3000+ rpm because it produces its maximum advance at 2600-2700rpm. Setting the maximum advance timing at 3000+ rpm ensures that it's "all in." If the engine pings/detonates at 32 degrees, then use 30 degrees or even 28. Never less than 28 degrees or the engine will be grossly under-advanced at high rpms. <br /><br />If the maximum advance timing is set at less than 28 degrees, it will be under-advanced at high rpm and result in overheating. Overheating certainly puts an extra load on the head and it's components, especially the already very hot exhaust valves.<br /><br />Once the maximum advance has been set, you can turn the engine off and determine the STATIC timing (see the Static Timing Procedure) and use THAT setting for statically timing THAT distributor in the future. The static timing using this method is commonly between about 5 and 10 degrees BTDC, but I have seen reports of up to 16 degrees BTDC, since these distributors DO vary in the total advance they can make.<br /><br />Run the vehicle, and try some high speed and lower speed high acceleration runs. If it runs fine, you've got it right. If it pings a bit, or has a flat spot on acceleration, try backing off the maximum advance to say 28 degrees, and try again.<br /><br />So the bottom line for 009 distributor timing is that maximum advance timing is much more important than idle timing. The spec 7.5 degrees BTDC MIGHT be right for some 009 distributors, but not necessarily for all. We have heard of 009 people with a maximum advance of 26 degrees; that would indicate that THAT 009 distributor should be set at around 10-12 degrees BTDC at idle so the maximum advance will be in the 28-32 degree range - <i>SlightlyDusty</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>make sure your plug wire's are in the right firing order - <i>bill</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Have you checked the compression? That will tell you kind of shape the engine is in.
<br /> What kind of carb, stock, if it is, throw another on it see if there is any difference. Make sure the hot wire goes to the + side of the coil, Negative goes to distributor
<br />If stock distributor, make sue the retard isnt hooked up
<br /> It could be a lot of things, but as long as the valves are good, the carb sounds like the culprit
<br />Make sure the lil electric gas shutoff below the carb isnt screwing up, I usually just take it out, clip off the end that goes into the intake, and screw it back in the hole. Also look down in the throttle body make sure the accelerator pump is squirting right into the hole as you pump the throttlel - <i>onlyoldiron4me</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>It is not likely fuel pressure because it does not take much to run smoothly in second.<br />More likely it is something like a bad condenser. But there are so many things it is hard to say.<br />But you need to be more specific, such as what years, type of distributor, type of carb, etc.<br />If it is a 70 - 75 distributor, it has 2 vacuum lines to it, and has to be dynamically timed, or statically timed at 17 degrees before TDC.<br />The idle jet should click when you unplug it.<br />The choke must have a good vacuum unloader diaphragm and heater, or else if could close up on you.<br />A bad leaking vacuum advance diaphragm could also cause this problem, and you can test for leakage by sucking on it, or seeing a lack of 32 degrees advance with a timing light, (you get about 16 degrees from vacuum advance, and 16 from centrifugal).<br />A centrifugal advance spring missing will also cause timing to bounce all over the place. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Should i buy this jetta? pleople who know vw?... Its a 2001 jetta 4cyl automatic, its fully loaded and strictly maintaned, it is in the best condition I've ever seen as far as body and interior go. Leather, heated seats. Alarm and automatic windows, it recently had the timing belt replaced professionally and its sounding great.. one owner w all paperwork for ownership and maintenance... buut the kicker is that it has 187k miles on it... I can get it for 2000, and its from a friend of my mothers that I know takes excellent care of her cars... but im asking someone who knows vw's or jettas themselves, and any knowledge about the 2001 model. Is this with it? How much longer does the car have? I only put like 8000 a year on my cars so is this worth buying or am I going to have major issues right away?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Sounds good, and I hope that was the second timing belt service, because the interval is every 65-70K miles. That service should have had the rollers, tensioner, coolant (G12), water pump, and thermostat with it. To be on the safe side, have it looked at by a VW tech. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>If you only drive 8,000 miles a year, you should be fine for a while. VW's really do last a while, and even if it has 200k miles, 2000 bucks is a pretty fair price for a vw. Good gas mileage too. - <i>Trey</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>A properly maintained car can run basically forever.
<br />The problem with some cars is that they maintenance has been deferred so it costs more to catch up, then the car is worth.
<br />But this sounds like a good deal.
<br />I would suggest finding an independent mechanic rather than a dealership, since they work harder to satisfy your long term requirements. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Sounds like a steal. Go for it, beautiful car. But like the other guy said it may be due for another timing belt water pump service. Factor this into the cost because some shops charge $1000 for this service. The only real weak spots I can tell you about for this car are the transmission (below average life expectancy) and a high maintenence ignition system (notorious for ignition control module/ coil failer). Don't let this discourage you. It sounds like a really great deal. - <i>TURTLELY ENOUGH</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">My 69 volkswagen gear for stuck?... MY dad was driving, and he was reversing and the gear got stuck in R. Than we opened the screws, took the gear out, and he says the thing with the gear where the gear fits in came up. And the little pins are lost too. What do i do, and where might have the pins fallen?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Into your bag of weed. - <i>doane_nut</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>New Tranny! Haha, but most likely if you have little problems like that I'd just get a new one at the junkyard, it's a common problem with VW's. - <i>Zack</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>The "automatic stickshift", in a 69 Beetle, is actually just a 3 speed manual transmission with the vacuum operated automatic clutch.
<br />You should probably not have opened up the shifter cover plate in order to fix it.
<br />It was most likely a problem with the clutch servo leaking, or was a mismatch of the non-syncho reverse gear. The solution would have been to try turning the engine off to shift, and to try rocking the car slightly.
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<br />But to fix the shifter, there is only one pin on the front of the shifter, and its purpose is just to prevent the stick from rotating. The pin is inexpensive, and any dune buggy shop will have them. However, it would have fallen into the tunnel, and can be retrieved with a magnet. There are small access plates at both ends of the car. One is in front under the gas tank, and points forward, held on by 2 bolts, side by side. The other access plate is held by one screw, and is under the rear seat.
<br />Don't call the shift selector stick a gear, because that will really confuse people.
<br />And be very careful with it, because if this really is an automatic stickshift, there is a clutch switch contact with a wire to it, that goes into the base of the stick. It has to be adjusted. And the wire has to be treated carefully.
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<br />The link shows an image of the standard bug shifter. The single pin in the front is the same, and I believe it goes through a hole and is peened on the other side to hold it in. But you could use the pin from a standard shifter. You can't use the whole shifter because the automatic stick shift has a switch in it, near the base. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">What does this icon on my Volkswagen dashboard mean? (pic included)?... http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/img0078kc.jpg/<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>It means your windshield washer reservoir needs to be filled. - <i>Mr. Smartypants</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>You need to refill your windshield washer fluid, look under the hood, small, blue, circular lid, should have the same logo on it.
<br />go to autozone and get yourself some fluid and fill that baby up! =) - <i>BZK</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-11460916383178158322011-05-30T18:10:00.001-07:002011-05-30T18:10:31.710-07:00Is an old VW bug a good first car for a 16 year old?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Is an old VW bug a good first car for a 16 year old?... I am in love with the old VW bugs, & have thought of it as my dream car. I just want to know if it is a good first car for me starting out, & if it's safe enough. I'm talking about the 1960's VW bugs<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Waffen SS Stormtrooper is history! - <i>One Dollar</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>No, VWs always need fixing even if it looks nice, u will be poring lots of $$$$$ and time, so if your rich then yes buy it if not then buy a used hatchback honda it will run good low maintance good gas milage and it would look nice rapped around u - <i>mike g</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>I would say to get a car you like, because you will take better care of it. I loved my first car, and I still do. My friend got a really cheap old car that he didn't like and he crashed it in, like, the first few months of owning it. Remember that most people crash their first car and so it might be better not to get the best car until you know you can really take care of it. Not that you would crash your car, but, statistically speaking. - <i>Sarah; MissPrin</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>I think that that car is more of a toy than a first car. - <i>theman</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>In a short word, no. The problem is that time has passed the air cooled original Beetle by. Even VW gave up trying to update it, as newer designs were cheaper to build, offered by economy and power and were safer in an accident. Also, the Beetle never had a full automatic transmission anywhere that I am aware of; so, you'd have to be able to drive with a manual transmission. A lot of people don't know how to drive a standard transmission and that's a problem for some parking attendants. I know because I attended a party and they had valet parking, but the parking attendant couldn't drive my car, so they left it where I put it!<br /><br /> The big problem is that safety has changed cars a lot in the last thirty two years since the last VW original Beetle was sold in the US (1979 or 80). The Beetle has almost no frontal crash protection, no abs, no air bags, roll over protection (the last few years of the Beetle in the US were convertibles), low power, so-so fuel economy, and a very touchy Bosch fuel injection system that was problem prone that was used from 1975 onwards. (though some people switched the engine over to carburetter system).<br /><br />In stock form they are very slow; even the 60 BHP bug motor took nearly 19 seconds to reach 60 mph from a standing start, today the slowest car is a Smart car and that took just over 14 seconds to reach 60 mph, with an average subcompact being around 9.0 seconds or so. Or, to put it another way, the average subcompact is 50% faster in acceleration than the late 60's stock bug. Yes, you can modify the motor and/or the fuel system and get a fair amount of power boost in the process, but it will take money, time and effort to do this. And, don't forget that fuel economy goes down as the power goes up. Also, other design faults can be a serious issue depending upon circumstance: poor heating/defrosting, drum brakes that need frequent adjustment, minor engine tune ups every six months with a valve adjustment, no power brakes, steering, windows, cruise control, some years no rear window defroster and the list goes on and on.<br /><br />While its true that some issues can be dealt with; i.e., brakes with an after market disc brake conversion kit, the defroster by adding a electric blower and adjusting the heater defroster cables and or flaps and/or sheet metal at the heat exchanger, etc; all of these things will take time and money to make the as reliable and comfortable as a recent vintage used car.<br /><br /> Also, although it isn't hard to work on Beetle (other than the fuel injection system), in many areas, people haven't seen one in a long time, so qualified techs to repair it are getting scarce. I haven't worked on one in over ten years. <br /><br /> The good is that parts are plentiful and fairly cheap, can be ordered on the web and if you join one of many chapters of VW owners club, you'll be able to find someone who can help you maintain the car. They remain very popular and fairly cheap to buy and run (all things considered), but as daily transportation, I think you ought to pass and get something newer and safer to drive. You should have a car that will protect you well in case of an accident. A car can be replaced, you can't.<br /><br /> Hope this helps, a car nut. - <i>a car nut</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>A '64 bug was my first car, at your age, but I wouldn't give my daughter one now. They're just too light and too OLD now! They never were safe cars to drive -- I think the concept of "defensive driving" was conceived just for their drivers -- and they're no longer economically feasible. See if you can find a used Honda. - <i>Bryce</i><br><br><font color="blue">7) </font>Any car that runs is a good car in my opinion. Just have it checked out and keep in mind that with an older car depending on how well it was previously taken care of it may have issues associated with being a car that is 40-50 years old. Also yourself a favor and locate some place that specializes in working on Aircooled VWs. From what I understand they are pretty easy to work on so you may be able to pick up a manual and if you are mechanically inclined you may be able to work on it yourself. Also join an online forum related to Bugs.
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<br />VWVortex is a site that I am on and its has helped save me money (its a VW enthusiat site)
<br />I say this because I own a VW scirocco and being apart of an online forum dealing with my car has saved me money and time.
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<br />Good luck - <i>lt991</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">Must I use premium gas in my VW?... We purchased a gently used/certified 2008 VW Passat yesterday. I had a 2003 Jetta before (my trade in) and always used unleaded gas. My Mom has a 2008 Touareg and also uses unleaded, as does my Grandma who has a 2009 Tiguan. I am assuming that the VW dealership filled my car up with premium gas. Is it really absolutely necessary to use premium gas, or is that just a recommendation? My husband (an experienced mechanic) says that it will perform better on premium as it was designed to get that kind of gas.
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<br />Will it harm my car if I use unleaded? I always buy my gas from Kroger or Randalls (grocery store deals).<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Look - any certified VW dealer or service outlet should know! Just ask/phone them and give them the model of your car. Certain high performance cars run badly on regular gas and therefore high octane gasoline is recommended. - <i>Sigi H</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>if your manuel says to use premium then you should be using it. if its meant to run on premium and you put cheap gas in you could start to hear a ping. The car will run better on premium also. I used to have a car that could run on 87. but i din't like the way it ran so i put 93 in - <i>Bill</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>It's not a law, but you'll like the increased performance if you do. - <i>chasm</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>It is recommended to use premium gasoline in many newer cars nowadays as the engine runs smoother and there's a power increase as well. You can use standard unleaded but it's not recommended. - <i>Murcie_LP640</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Is this a good price for an old 74' VW bug?... See link http://volkswagentrader.com/listman/listings/l0123.html
<br />& tell me what you think. I'm 16 years old and I am looking at this as my first car.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>i dont lik bugs but 5 grand is a ok price for a fully restored one i gues theres so many of them u never kno wat bargin u can get - <i>Jhon</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>couild try looking on www.thesamba.com,and compare what you are looking at to what is on thesamba.than you can get a better idea. - <i>KAM</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>upon first looking at the add and the small pics, i was thinking yes. especially for a 1974 in California, which is the VW Mecca of the USA. but then seeing the double barrel Weber carb i kind of changed my mind.
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<br />so your 16 and a girl i take it? do you have any mechanical experience of know-how with cars of any kind? VW's can be expensive to maintain if you do not do the work at home by yourself. every 3000 miles you have to, change oil and oil strainer, adjust valves, adjust carburetor if necessary, adjust the brake shoes, check timing, points, condenser, check and gap the plugs if needed. you also need to check the oil at least once a week. if you dont you will kill the engine in no time at all.
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<br />So, if you are willing to work on the car and take care of the car consider buying this one. there are thousands of them for sale in California alone. dont jump on the first car you see that you can afford. shop around and get the best deal you can. and look around on the samba for a car.
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<br />http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?submit=yes&keywords=&type=text&stype=all&username=&yearfrom=&yearto=&pricefrom=&priceto=&model[]=&section[]=65&section[]=1&section[]=3&wanted=show&zip=&zipdist=0&state[]=&usaregion=&country=&sort=date&sort_order=DESC&submitButton=Search - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">how much would a classic volkswagen beetle cost?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Yes. - <i>Cereal Killer</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Look at Samba.com I've seen them from $500.00 up to $40,000. - <i>hotvw1914cc</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>depends on the year the condition the location and what the seller wants for it.<br /><br />anywhere from FREE to $50,000<br /><br />http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?submit=yes&keywords=&type=text&stype=all&username=&yearfrom=&yearto=&pricefrom=&priceto=&model[]=&section[]=65&section[]=1&section[]=3&wanted=show&zip=&zipdist=0&state[]=&usaregion=&country=&sort=date&sort_order=DESC&submitButton=Search - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">2000 VW Jetta Gls 2.0 rough idle and dies.?... i just bought a 2000 Jetta GLS with 99K miles, when i start the car it has a low idle at first, like its about to die, then settles at 900rpm, then i give it gas and it is shutter like its gonna die, and when im stopped at a stop sign or making a turn it will die, and the battery light comes on. I checked the battery and alternator there both good, i cleaned the MAF sensor, and unplugged it and the motor runs the same, so i dont think thats it. Also i have a code of p1580, im not sure if this has to do with the motor running like it is. Another thing is when im driving and i am accelerating and abruptly let off the gas it jerks, not side to side but like fwd, im very frustrated and would appreciate any help.
<br />-Also-
<br />when the car idles its at 800rpm, and when i get it gas while parked, i rev it up to about 3K and then let off gas and it goes down to 500-600rpm, and then stalls out. Could it be a clogged fuel filter, or catalytic converter, or maybe even bad spark plugs? im just guessing, i really need help with this.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>check throttle body - <i>Discover</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>what discover said :D - <i>A</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>i have ad the same problem. start with a simple fuel filter as its only about 12 dollars for the part and can be changed in about 5 minutes. if it still does it, have the catalytic converter looked at. if its gets clogged up it will cause the same problems because the car cant release the exhaust properly and causes the engine to starve for air. - <i>baldwin</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-2203189415124487222011-05-29T18:11:00.001-07:002011-05-29T18:11:26.154-07:00Are Volkswagen Jettas a good buy?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Are Volkswagen Jettas a good buy?... My mother is looking at a Volkswagen jetta sport 2011 , or a honda civic.. she wants a manual,, she is really into the VW but she isnt sure how good they are maintenance wise, she doesnt want to get something that will be in the shop every weekend.. what do you think? anybody have a jetta ? what are they like for finding parts and such?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>They're actually very good cars, the late 90's and early 2000's saw a lot of Volkswagens with quite a few problems, but once VW rolled out he MK5 platform (around 2005) they had just about everything sorted out. They're very good cars, she won't be disappointed. - <i>Red</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>I own a Volks Wagen Jetta and its a very good buy! It will stay with you for a long while, Its fast, its very handleable, very easy to manage, and pretty good looking. You wont have any problems with the car, i guarantee from experience. Its worth every cent of the money. Also, the seats are very comfortable, and the air conditioner is very fast cooling. :) hope this helps - <i>coolmegz</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Jettas are some of the most reliable cars out there. Once you get one, and if you're good about maintenance, they just won't quit. I've got a friend with a 2004 who's got over 100K on his Jetta and that little thing just won't quit. I will drive VW's for the rest of my life. She has to understand, though that once she enters the VW family, she will have a very hard time leaving. VW's are for life =] - <i>Paige G</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">what insurance group is a vw 1 litre?... what insurance group is a vw 1 litre<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Ignore the above answer, it depends on the model, the trim level and the year - <i>MG 6</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>What VW are you talking about?
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<br />Find it on Parkers site, here...
<br />http://www.parkers.co.uk/insurance/#ig=0 - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Many of these insurance companies are always ripping you off at every chance they get. I had ONE accident in which the damage was smaller than the deductible, so I for it myself. But when I had to renew my policy, they charged me extra. It's absolutely rediculous. I had to change, luckily, I found this info here: http://www.yoursaveinsuranceconnect.tk and was able to quickly find the lowest rate currently with the same policy. I think I dropped my rate by around $180 - <i>Clarice Cuadras</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">how much would a classic volkswagen beetle cost?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Yes. - <i>Cereal Killer</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Look at Samba.com I've seen them from $500.00 up to $40,000. - <i>hotvw1914cc</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>depends on the year the condition the location and what the seller wants for it.
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<br />anywhere from FREE to $50,000 - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">Does a 2.0l volkswagen gt have a turbo?... Does a 2.0l volkswagen gt have a turbo?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>I assume you mean the 90's Jetta GT's. No they do not have a Turbo. - <i>Lippy</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Nope, but a turbo intake isn't hard to install XD - <i>Paige G</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Do the old 1960's VW bugs have air conditioning?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>It was an option. But very few had it.......................&&& - <i>**Uncle Jed Sez**</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>If my memory is correct (no promises on that), it was a dealer installed option during the 1960's, with a couple of different companies making kits for the vehicle. I think DPD air, Fridgeking and Texas Air were the biggest and best known of the companies making kits for them. They worked, but, drained off horsepower off a already overworked motor and made them prone to overheating. I think VW didn't offer factory air on the Beetle until the early 1970's. DPD and Fridgeking are long gone and I think Texas Air is no longer offering parts for these units. I have heard that someone is making an aftermarket kit for the air cooled Beetle, but I haven't seen one in years. - <i>a car nut</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-9633640814797511602011-05-11T18:10:00.000-07:002011-05-13T13:36:16.517-07:00I want to buy a used 1998 Volkswagen bug, how much should I spend on one?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">I want to buy a used 1998 Volkswagen bug, how much should I spend on one?... Ive been looking online and so far I see that they usually go for around 3,000 to 3,500ish.. I found one that was 2,000 and I just think it's too good to be true I figured there has to be something wrong with it or it has a lot of miles.. this is gonna be my second car but my first one I didn't pick out, so I'm not sure what it is I'm supposed to look for in a good car. How many miles is too many miles? and are they pretty good on gas I know it's a 4 cylinder car and I heard a 4 cylinder uses less gas, is that true? Any other info would be totally appreciated =)<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Don't buy it! Nothing but problems and falls apart - <i>Baker</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Anyone buying a used car should start by looking at the Consumer Reports Used Car Buying Guide, which is normally published once a year. I've always relied on their findings and ratings for new and used cars. Some bookstores, Walmarts, or your local grocer sometimes keep them on display longer, however, your local library should have a back issue copy along with the current monthly issue. Again, look at reliability ratings for that car. Are they better than average, average, or worse than average? Why would you want to buy a car whose reliability is rated worse than average? Don't buy something that is repair-prone. Buy something that has better than average reliability, or at least average. Spend wisely. Also, look at the car manufacturer's entire lineup. How do their other cars stack up? Do they also have problems? It's rare that only one particular model stinks, while the others shine.
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<br />You asked about price. Go to the links below and input the variables to determine what each of those sites consider a good price to pay for that car. Get a good average from the sites so you'll know what that car is really worth. Why? Because if that car is worth $2,000, and you pay $3,000 for it, and decide you want another and want to sell it, guess what your car's worth? We all pay a little more than we should, but not too much. How many miles is too much? That's a tough question. I think anything over 80,000 and the car is going to start to need significant work to keep it going. In this case, look at the year of the car, 1998. It's 13 years old. It's been my experience that anything over 10 years and stuff really starts to break. Four cylinder cars are usually good on gas, vice six or eight. Now, my personal opinion on VW.
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<br />VW makes some of the funnest cars to drive. German cars all handle very well, and really make driving fun. German cars are some of the most unreliable cars I've ever read about. I've owned two VWs and both gave me loads of problems. The last one I owned was a VW Rabbit, which I bought at the nine-year mark. When that car hit 10 years old, the engine started giving me all kinds of problems, and not just minor ones. Every major component failed and cost me more than what I paid for it. VW's reliability has been less than average or poor across the board with all their cars. Brand new, they are fun, but have problems. Used, they can be a nightmare. My advice, pick another make like Toyota or Honda.
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<br />Toyota has had more than their fair share of problems recently with all their cars, but historically they make solid cars. Honda too. But, do your own research, don't rush buying a car. Also, take someone with you who knows cars, and always take it to a repair shop for a once over mechanical check before paying any money. Have them look it over thoroughly.
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<br />Knowledge is power. Know how much the car's worth. Know how much you want to spend. Know how you intend to pay for it. My credit union's loan department is very good at helping folks buy cars. They are sticklers for paying the lowest price, and offer free printouts to help folks understand what cars are really worth. Does your credit union or bank offer this service? Edmunds.com is also a good place for price info.
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<br />One more thing. The second a dealership or someone selling you the car sees that you're a woman, they have already figured you don't have the smarts to know what you're doing. They figured you don't research makes/models, you don't have a clue about reliability, and you don't know anything about car values. Prove them wrong. DO NOT FEAR CONFRONTATION. Absorb it, and it will make you stronger. Stick to your guns. Every time I've bought a car, I've always visited as many dealerships as possible. I want confrontation, I want them to tell me lies so I can know the information I've gathered is right. Practice at different places so you can learn how to deal with sales persons and managers. I always show up with all my notes (in order), notepad and pen, and calculator. Never let anyone at the dealership or wherever you buy a car see your notes. Write down stuff you don't understand, refer back to it, or ask someone else. Be smart. It's your money, spend it wisely.
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<br />http://www.nadaguides.com/
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<br />http://www.kbb.com/
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<br />http://www.edmunds.com/used-cars/ - <i>Canines</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Before buying the car you should also compare insurance prices for these cars to estimate how much you will really pay for it - carquotes.sinfree.net - <i>Oliver</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>with old cars likes like that its a gamble... about a year ago i bought a ford escort for 3000 it took another 2500 to fix the problems it had...then i got a 2008 VW GTI and right now i think the gti was a better deal than the 3000 dollar car. money wise that is.. - <i>oX.CoOkiE.MoNsTeR.Xo</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">Squeaking sound? vw jetta?... I have a 2006 vw jetta that squeaks when driving slow or on uneven ground especially on turns. It's comes from the front only, I had my breaks replaced in feb. along with the rotors, What could be the issue?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>You need to get your Flux Capacitor greased. Take it to the shop and ask for the Flux Capacitor service. Should only be 15/20 bucks. - <i>sweet river baines</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Flux capacitor?? Total hype answer. - <i>mo mo mokie</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Might be the shocks or sway bar. My 2000 Jetta did that. What exactly does the squeaking sound like? - <i>Calvin Perkins</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>cv axles - <i>Alex</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">i want a vw beetle. which model/year is best to buy?... well i saw a 1971 beetle for sale down my street and i asked my mom if we could talk about getting it. since i'm looking for a car anyway. so she talked to my dad about it and he said it was a death trap. well that crushed my dreams haha.. but anyway. i love the look of the beetle and i know the new-ish ones aren't as attractive, but i still like them. which vw beetle model is the best safety, and mpg wise? gas prices are crazy right now... i'd prefer a standard drive but auto is ok. i'm 16 and about to get my licence so i guess the best model for new drivers.. (i'm used to driving a 2008 honda civic coupe. is the beetle a drastic change in driving style? will i get used to it quickly?)
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<br />lots of info is very helpful! thanks in advance :)<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Hey there =) I'm looking for a VW bug too they're so cute and I don't know too much about them but I did hear that they do pretty well with gas cuz it's a 4 cylinder car.. and I'm personally trying to get a 1998 bug cuz there way cheaper than the newer models, not to mention super safe compared to the old bugs. That's about as much as I know lol I'm asking questions on here too to learn more about these cars, hopefully u can get ur bug =) oh and pretty much any car u get ur gonna get used to it pretty quick it'll feel a lil funky at first but ya after just a lil adjusting you'll be fine. Good luck - <i>Bree</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Before buying the car you should also compare insurance prices for these cars to estimate how much you will really pay for it - carinsurance.deep-ice.com - <i>Oliver</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>go with GTI - <i>oX.CoOkiE.MoNsTeR.Xo</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">durability of 1974 VW Westfalia?... im looking at getting a westy for my first car. i heard that the biggest problem with them is their engines. and, if i was to install a bolt down couch lets say from lay-z-boy, can i reinstall the seatbelts to the original brackets? would it be legal?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Keep the valves adjusted & serviced on schedule (VW dealer will tell you how often) & they will last forever. - <i>clncarplz</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>vw's can be a lot of work. especially compared to new cars. they require regular maintenance which if you don't do yourself will be expensive. every 3000 miles you NEED TO. change oil (and filter) adjust valves, check timing, adjust carburetor, change fuel filter change air filter, adjust brakes, adjust clutch cable if needed etc etc. you need to check the oil level at least twice a week if not more and top it off. not to mention minor things that can and do happen in between regular maintenance intervals. i drive a 1970 beetle everyday but i also do all the work myself and on time.
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<br />if you do all that then you have nothing to worry about with the engine. they are some of the strongest and most reliable engines out there. thats why they sold over 22,000,000 of them for 56 years while barely changing a thing. - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">2001 vw jetta vr6 fuel economy?... I have a 2001 vw Jetta glx vr6 2.8L I was wondering why my mpg isn't as good as it supposed to be?
<br />For instance i had an 01 jetta same motor and both had manual transmissions my old one got at least 33 mpg hwy and aroung 28 city. The jetta i have now only gets about 22mpg hwy and 18 city. The only difference between the two is a had an aftermarket muffler on my old one thats it!
<br />There are no check engine lights on now it has a new mass air flow sensor.
<br />Please no trash talk about vw or that motor.<br />on this model it shows details like mpg, instant mpg, average mph, and a timer for how long the motor has been running or somethinglike that.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>A 2001 Jetta VR6 manual is rated 17 city 26 highway under the new regime. You're right in the ballpark of where you are supposed to be. A muffler wouldn't make that much difference so I suspect the old on really didn't get that much, maybe you just thought it did. - <i>D</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Mm... I find this for you. http://giftchoice.info/2625/air-flow-sensor - <i>Ng Causey</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-69184257870939246932011-05-09T18:10:00.001-07:002011-05-09T18:10:26.099-07:00whats mrk is this volkswagen golf?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">whats mrk is this volkswagen golf?... http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201118386388084/sort/priceasc/usedcars/price-to/2000/model/golf/make/volkswagen/page/1/radius/20/postcode/bn24bj?logcode=p<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>it looks Mk5 - <i>M M M</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>It's a Mk4. And a fairly early one at that. - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Agree, its a Mk4 - <i>Lippy</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>That's a Early Mk4 golf that suffers the Common Abs pump failure Manufactured by Ate teves. If you test drive a early example between 1998-2000 make sure you don't get a low speed abs activation when coming to a stop ie at road junctions etc or it will cost you £500 for a replacement unit. - <i>turboextreme</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">Can an 1835cc (92x69) VW engine be rebuilt to a 1775cc (90.5x69) without additional machine work?... What parts would be needed? Just pistons and jugs?<br />I am going to add a turbo, and am worried about the thinner cylinder walls of the 92 bore. The 92 is a "slip in" big bore for 90.5. The extra displacement comes from thinning the cylinder walls.<br />It's also on a Baja bug that I beat the hell out of sometimes, so it'll be bounced around a lot more than a street machine.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Why do you want to drop displacement? You will be loosing torque and power.
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<br />Yes all you need are the liners and pistons, however the head may also be different as well. - <i>BigeQ</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>the block is bored out to fit 92mm jugs,cant go smaller than the 92's will have to get another stock 1600 block and have this block bored out to 90.5mm and will have to buy another set of heads bored out to 90.5 a lot of expense for less motor, - <i>KAM</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>why do want to do this? afraid an 1835 is not reliable? its probably more reliable than a 1776 in the long run. keep it an 1835 you will be much happier and save a lot of money by doing so<br /><br /><br /><br />EDIT: yeah, i just assumed that who ever built the 1835 was smart enough to have the case clearances for bigger jugs but apparently they wanted to save a buck. yes in that case build it into a 1776. much more reliable then that 1835. if it had been done correctly i would still stand by what i said earlier about going with the 1835.<br /><br />since thats not true definitely go with pistons and jugs for a 1776. pretty sure you will need heads as well - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Looking for what year models of Volkswagen beetle will be compatible with a 1969 beetle.?... Need a front axle for my 1969 beetle and i need to know what years are compatible so i can find a spare. Thanks!<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>68, 69, and the first half of 70 use the same front end. The basic front end is the same since 65, however in 68 VW switched to a 4 lug wheel. In 70 The front suspension went through a major make over and that is when they started using McPherson suspension. - <i>Shane A</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>try www.thesamba.com and any year from 68 to 76 but not super beetle, the super beetle has strut front end.and the 69 you want is a ball joint,earlier than 67 has king pin,link pin front.can also try www.cbperformance.com for more choice's. - <i>KAM</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>any 1968 to 1977 standard bug is a straight swap for the beam. - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">is a VW jetta a good first car?... I really really want a 1999 VW Jetta, but I'm told that they'd make a bad first car because they're too low to the ground for towing, and their costly to repair?
<br />Is this true, and other than that are they good cars?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>thats bs
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<br />jettas are sexy, efficient on gas, and easy as heck to fix - <i>Julian</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Jettas are awesome! German engineering at it's finest. I've never thought once about my girlfriend's Jetta being "too low to tow". Then again, they're so reliable I'll never have to worry about it! - <i>Matt</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>What kind of idiot would recommend a car on its ability to be towed?? VW's can be a little bit more to fix, but not much more that anything else, plus German parts are generally very good quality so your getting a better deal anyway. Jettas are awesome cars, they have their querks, but all cars do. They are fun to drive if its running good. - <i>Steve Polychronopolis</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Is it true that Hitler founded the Volkswagen car company?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>yes. - <i>Steve</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>yeah sure , he made many things good , ok he was a dictator , but his men made huge discoveries in both technology and science , he also developed the architecture and make this cars company !! - <i>Jeff Lebanon</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>He didn't discover or find the automobile company, Volskswagen, but he did ask German car makers for a peoples car. Thus the name VOLKSWAGEN translated means peoples car.
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<br />He did give several sketchy ideas for the development of the VW Beetle.
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<br />He is still credited with the initial design and concept for some of VW's cars. - <i>Mobin Cybersmart</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-64338174943184549892011-05-02T18:10:00.001-07:002011-05-02T18:10:24.962-07:00Help with 2003 jetta hazard lights not working?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Help with 2003 jetta hazard lights not working?... I have a 2003 jetta the blinkers work fine and there are no blown fuses or anything when I try to turn the hazard lights on it just buzzes at me I checked all the fuses associated with the blinkers tail lights hazards and even the head lights I can't figure it out please help.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Swap out the switch, that may be the problem. - <i>KurtisMG</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>If your blinkers work fine, then its the switch. I find it strange that it buzzes at you though? Does it buzz the same when it DID work? - <i>Jason</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>AMAZING!You might try this places:
<br />http://connotea.info/174052/hazard-light - <i>Dion Caraway</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>There was a recall on the MK4 hazard light switch in 2004-2005 that included all models of the generation. Similar to the first couple coil pack recalls, the replacement switches seemed to have a higher failure rate than the originals. In any place, it is definitely your switch which is bad, and the clicking sound is a normal sign of faulty switches.
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<br />Before you purchase a new switch, I would head to your local VW dealer and have them run your VIN to see if they owe you a switch free of charge. - <i>gti_4cefed4</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">why does my 72 super beetle backfires?... i have a 72 super beetle it backfires as i let off the gas until i take it out of gear and also when im at a stop when i pull the the number four cylinder wire off the dist it stops the valves are fine so is timming what could be the problem?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Ignition timing is too far advanced. - <i>The Ghost of Harrison</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>bad spark plug wires or worn out cam shaft - <i>Steven P</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>It needs a tuneup. - <i>doane_nut</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>if you have backfiring out the exhaust when engine braking, you have an exhaust leak. same thing happened to me about a year ago. turned out i had a decent size hole in my muffler. so check all exhaust clamps and gaskets and look for small holes - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">How much should it cost to rewire a 1968 VW Beetle?... I just purchased a 1968 VW Beetle. It is solid with very little rust. But, the wiring is a mess. It starts and the headlights and wipers work, but that's about it. I was just going to have someone rewire it from front to back. How much should it cost for a job like that?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>A LOT. Don't be surprised if you're quoted a grand or more. - <i>KurtisMG</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>that is a very long complex job even on a VW. i have no idea what it would cost but it will be a lot more than you think. call around to some local air-cooled shops and get some quotes - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>have you checked the fuse's?a rewire would be expensive for your classic bug.try www.cbperformance.com they sell wiring harnesses for the bug,universal 12 circut system. - <i>KAM</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">Air intake on a 2010, 5 speed, mk6, 5 door, 2.5L VW Golf?... I am looking to install an Air Intake on my VW Golf. i Have done some research but am not completely sure if it needs a specific type or if i can just make one from scratch. i don't have all that much money so something simple would be appreciated.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>there is technically no such thing as a "cold air intake". after all, where would the "cold air" be coming from. want to go cheap. replace your stock restrictive air filter with a higher flowing one like k&n. and replace your intake tube with one in larger diameter and shorter if possible. DO NOT install a super long pipe because it looks cool. think of it this way. if i give you a 3 foot straw and tell you to drink out of a glass, you will have to suck ALOT harder to get some. now if i give you a 3 inch straw and tell you to drink. it'll be easier. same thing applies with your engine trying to suck in air. keep doing your research. you'll find something good and cheap. even if you have to make it yourself. - <i>ant</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Your factory intake flows a lot more air than a stock or near stock engine can use, aftermarket intakes are absolutely a waste of money on modern VWs. - <i>Richard R</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Volkswagen passat price in India?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>http://volkswagen-passat-price-in-india.blogspot.com - <i>Adadad Addaad</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Volkswagen Passat Price Rs 19,20,777* - Rs 25,65,000* in New Delhi Show Room.
<br />You didn't mention the city. If you mention it, i could help you lot. - <i>Apu</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-57574274622533438482011-04-29T18:10:00.001-07:002011-04-29T18:10:25.706-07:00Looking for Volkswagen Jetta's German Engineering?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Looking for Volkswagen Jetta's German Engineering?... Hello,
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<br /> I've heard Many people saying some VW's are made in Mexico and there's a lot of problems!
<br />I'm planning on buying a VW Jetta but I don't know from what year to what year they Stop making the Mexican Versions I don't want this disease "Made in Mexico". Because I want a German car I can count on during the Canadian Winter.
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<br />Thanks in advance.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>German engineering ain't all it's cracked up to be. Volkswagen builds stuff in a lot of countries, and the products from Mexico aren't that great. Even Porsche and Mercedes get their parts from China. - <i>D</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>My aunt has a 2002 VW jetta and loves it. It was made in Germany also. It gets good gas mileage too. I'm sure if you buy one you won't have any problems. She lives in Michigan and they get a bad winter as well. - <i>Evan1994</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Well most of the car is built right here in Chattanooga Tennessee, What you have heard is right though, the plant they have in Puebla Mexico makes the inline 5 cyl engine for the car and thats about it. they have only made the engines for the Mk4 and new Mk5 Jetta, if you get an Mk3 or older you will have a German engineered car. - <i>Tuono Cane</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>most jettas since 1993 have been made in mexico, if you want true german engeneering and build quality buy an older mercedes diesel, they last forever, nothing can kill them - <i>agoodworker</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>If the VIN starts with a 3 it was made somewhere else, not in Germany, If it has a W for the first letter, it's a German made VW. - <i>AMERICA!</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>"German engineering" is a con inside a myth.
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<br />"Engineering," get it? Not manufacturing.
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<br />The vehicle can be engineered in Germany and manufactured in Somalia w/ parts made in Burma.
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<br />And in the 21st century, what would be unique or better bout German engineering?
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<br />It's a creation of advertising.
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<br />Mercedes ranked 10th for 2011 in Consumer Reports.
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<br />BMW was downrated, too. Both for reliability issues.
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<br />Top five were Honda, Subaru, Toyota, Volvo and Ford.
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<br />Dont fall for the name-game cons.
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<br />The Cadillac Catera was a re-badged Opel.
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<br />Dont buy anything w/o reading Consumer Reports, CR. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/index.htm A non-profit testing organization. Free site for basic info. Also @ libraries & bookstores.
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<br />Honda ranks #1 in Consumer Reports for 2011. Subaru, Toyota, Volvo & Ford follow in order.
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<br />BMW and Mercedes were down-rated for reliability, with Mercedes in 10th place.
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<br />GM & Chrysler were 12th & 13th.
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<br />Vehicles were rated for performance, reliability, fuel efficiency and other factors.
<br />. .
<br />http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704615504576172500918475430.html?mod=WSJ_article_MoreIn_AutoIndustryNews Wall St Journal.
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<br />http://www.forbes.com/2011/04/13/mercedes-gm-chrysler-nissan-business-autos-worst-cars.html Forbes' "Worst Cars On The Road" list. - <i>Top Source</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">Volkswagen Golf/Jetta reliability?... I'm looking at buying a used Golf or Jetta, maybe diesel, but after doing a bit of research, it seems like all I read about VW's is negative. Everybody complains that they're constantly needing work done and parts replaced, and a lot of people say they'd never buy another VW again. This has really put me off, as it'll be my first car and I need something not only cheap and that gets good gas mileage but will also be very dependable and last a long time. What can you tell me about their overall long-term reliability and maintenance? I think I'll probably end up buying Japanese, as tempting as some VW's may be. Thanks.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>I have had my Jetta for 18 months and have had one bad sensor. Love the car. - <i>jim s</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>You can add me to one of those who bought a VW and will never buy one again. I payed too much because their prices are inflated for what they are. I paid a fortune to keep in maintained, but I didn't have enough money to fix everything (burning oil at 100K, broken $3000 sunroof frame, tape deck and A/C broken, door locks broken, rust starting, zillions of electrical glitches).
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<br />I wound up practically giving it away.
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<br />Go for a Honda Civic and you won't go wrong. - <i>calnickel</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Yeah, Honda.
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<br />I duno what's temping bout VW's.
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<br />Dont buy anything w/o reading Consumer Reports, CR. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/index.htm A non-profit testing organization. Free site for basic info. Also @ libraries & bookstores.
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<br />
<br />Honda ranks #1 in Consumer Reports for 2011. Subaru, Toyota, Volvo & Ford follow in order.
<br />
<br />BMW and Mercedes were down-rated for reliability, with Mercedes in 10th place.
<br />
<br />GM & Chrysler were 12th & 13th.
<br />
<br />Vehicles were rated for performance, reliability, fuel efficiency and other factors.
<br />. .
<br />http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704615504576172500918475430.html?mod=WSJ_article_MoreIn_AutoIndustryNews Wall St Journal.
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<br />http://www.forbes.com/2011/04/13/mercedes-gm-chrysler-nissan-business-autos-worst-cars.html Forbes' "Worst Cars On The Road" list. - <i>Top Source</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Buying a driving a VW, expecially a diesel, is more of a hobby than anything. Sold my '97 Passat TDI with 140,000 miles on it and my '01 Golf with 160,000 miles on it (my dad is still driving it at almost 190k), and now I've got 20k on my 2010 Golf TDI.
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<br />I absolutely love these cars, obviously, but then I consider myself pretty well mechanically inclined and, more importantly, willing to get out and tinker with the cars on the weekends. Never had anything major go wrong with my old ones, but it seemed like there was always a little something here and there that needed fixing.
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<br />If you're looking at used diesels, I would almost look exclusively at 2003 Golf and Jettas with Manual transmissions. The 99-03 engine was much much more reliable than the 04-06s, but the automatic trans was terrible. The automatic trans was better for 04-06, but the trans requires expensive services every 40k miles. I would also head over to http://www.tdiclub.com and find a TRUSTED tdi-only mechanic to take a look at any used diesel you're considering. While I've had pretty good luck with my cars, with improper car these cars can turn into absolute money pits. - <i>Richard R</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Don't feel dejected, mate. Jettas have always been reliable. :) - <i>Jacque M</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">What is the besy engine oil for a 2000 vw golf iv?... I want to put in new oil into my 2000 vw golf iv and would like to know the best type.. I have used semi synthetic oil before but it runs out every 5 weeks... My car has 51000 miles on it but its old... Its a 1.6 petrol<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>== when you put any synthetic type oil in a car engine you should stay with that SYN-oil ... It sounds to me that the best you could use in a ""tired motor"" that only has 51K and a very small engine is now the use of 30weight oil. DO NOT USE Q-state, Penzoil, or AMELTIE or any other parafin based oil .... ESSO EXXON, MOBIL, Valvoline, ( you got it ) use a good brand name oil -- you should check the ground under the car engine to see if it is leaking and if so replace the oil pan gasket ... AND .... 12 years for a VW is not old ... you just need to take care to do some maintanience and parts changing and you can stay on the road for another 12 years...be careful - <i>XTX</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Always use what the owners manual tells you, eg the weight and mineral or synthetic always use what is stated in the manual. Car manufactures spend millions of dollars on what oil is best for the engines they build, some 18 year old from an auto store doesnt even know the differance between oils.
<br /> Anyway if your engine is using that much oil in 5 weeks I think its time to take it to a workshop and get it checked out, could have worn rings, value stem seals, head gasket, heaps of things could be wrong. Get a pro to check it out. - <i>Adam Edwards</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>It seems your current oil has too low density in high temperatures. It depends how you drive it and where you drive it, but it seems that you need something that will perform better in high temperature. I'd go for 10W40 or if you're aggressive driver, spend a lot of time in traffic jams, or live in very warm climate then I'd even go for 15W50. Generally you need to make sure that second number won't go bellow 40 (that number tell how well it performs in higher temperatures). I use Motul 300V Competition ( 15W50) for my 2.5 litre Subaru. However, for 1.6 Golf it will be a bit of an overkill. I'd go for Motul 6100 Synergie+ 10W40 which is a very, very decent oil. - <i>Raphael G</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">How can i get the Volkswagen logo black on my Golf...?... like this pic..
<br />http://www.hofeleamerica.com/new/images/news/vw_golf_v_gti_front_02.jpg
<br />both front and back logo on the trunk...
<br />thanks<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>take it to a paint shop in town where every you live i did and they did it for me! - <i>Nick S</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Get the designed logo from any of the designer shop. Not too much difficult task. - <i>bob warner</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>if u want u can design i easily , designer also keep readymade logo also and if want og logo u can get from parts shop - <i>abdulhussain k</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">cost to refine oil in liters?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>By volume, same cost as to refine in gallons or barrels. - <i>Mike B</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>It's amazing! I found it at http://seekitnow.info/291958/refined-oil - <i>Royal Cieslak</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>ITS AMAZINGIs this what you are looking for?
<br />http://cheapay.info/448922/refine-oil - <i>kamimura schloemann</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-1463074109083789602011-04-24T18:10:00.001-07:002011-04-24T18:10:25.137-07:00VW Jetta 2004 low MPG issue...HELP?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">VW Jetta 2004 low MPG issue...HELP?... Hey Folks,
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<br />Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I have a Jetta GL 2004 with around 90k on it. I;m getting really low MPG. Half the tank is gone and I'd be getting only around a 100 Miles (in the City). I had the O2 Sensor's replaced but still getting same. Any advice on how to up my MPG, any ideas what the issue could be??<br />Its a 2.0 Litre, 4 Cylinder, GL Jetta 2004<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>If you've got the 2.0 8v engine, there's probably no helping it, unless there's an active check engine light or a stored trouble code.
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<br />If it's got the 1.8t motor, there may be a fault with the turbocharger. - <i>Felix C</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>It sounds silly, but are your tires (or tyres) properly inflated? If they're not, that can affect your mileage quite a lot.
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<br />My 2000 New Beetle (1.8 Turbo) gets about 22 mpg around town, but nearly 30 on the road. - <i>Bryce</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>you could have a faulty gauge, other possibilities are a blocked air filter, blocked fuel filter , faulty temperature sender, faulty injection pressure valve, faulty Mass air sensor(very common on high mileage jettas), wrong spark plugs , they changed the recommended plug which doesn't show up in auto store charts - <i>Harley Drive</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Check and/or replace your air filter.
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<br />This is a commonly overlooked item and is essential to good fuel mileage.
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<br />A blocked or restricted air filter causes the engine to work harder, and allows much less air into combustion causing poor fuel mileage. Also check the air box for restrictions and/or debris that could be present.
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<br />It is possible it has never been changed. Like I said it is commonly overlooked. - <i>nywholesale</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">What's wrong with brake lights on my 2004 VW Polo?... Brake lights won't come on until I push hard on brake pedal all the way down. I know they should light up even with the slightest pressure on pedal. Could it be a weary sensor, or a loose tension?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Your brake light switch is either going bad or out of adjustment. - <i>nywholesale</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Have a look under the brake pedal, there Should be a small switch. these can sometimes move off centre or just become faulty. Hopefully a quick look should solve everything. If not the have a fiddle as they're usually adjustable
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<br />good luck.
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<br />Shane.
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<br />P.s. I don't advise removing any connectors as this may put a light on the dash! - <i>Shane Hall</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>VW's usually have a rather crappy telescopic brake light switch mounted above the brake pedal, which sometimes needs to be adjusted. Once it starts playing up though, keep an eye on it or just replace it now, as they aren't expensive and will only get worse. The other possibility is the switch being a pressure switch on the master cylinder, but I'm almost certain your car will have the switch on the brake pedal. If it is on the master cylinder, than make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir, and that it's been changed since the car was new as it should be changed every 4 years at most. - <i>Neil B</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Check the brake light switch. This is probably the problem, actually it can make your brake lights stay on, too - <i>megan</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Honda or vw??????????... is honda or vw better???<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>it really depends on what you are looking for. a volkswagen is usually more costly to repair and more difficult to repair yourself. hondas are fairly cheap and simple. there are a whole bunch of people that swear by each kind of car. i am a mechanic and i'd go for a honda over a vw. but then again that's just my preference. you also need to take into account creature comforts and features. - <i>peterson</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>VW! - <i>Dsvfshj Hjvsdfhj</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>VW! - <i>Jacque M</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>If you don't know a good independent VW mechanic, then you might consider the Honda, because VW dealers tend to be expensive.
<br />If you want to save money in the long run, and want to keep the car over 5 years, then get the VW, because it will last almost twice as long as the Honda. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">How much does a 2008 volkswagon r32 clutch cost?......?... How much does a vw r32 clutch cost? It is a dual clutch. I just bought it certified preowned from a dealership. It feels like automatic and sport mode is slipping but not manual mode. I only had it for 3 days.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>take it back to the dealership and demand your money back. - <i>Treva</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Take it back to the dealership where you bought it from, and they might be nice and teach you have to drive. If it's from a VW dealership then they will have tested it thoroughly, and I'm not sure you have a multi-plate clutch, either! - <i>Neil B</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>If you bought the car CPO, why do you care how much it costs? The answer is a lot of money, so take it back to the dealership and have it checked out and replaced if there's an issue.
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<br />The DSG is not a serviceable unit by any VW dealership besides the required fluid and filter changes every 40k. Anything more involved results in a replacement with a new transmission. - <i>gti_4cefed4</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">What is the difference between the 2011 Jetta SEL and the 2012 GLI?... I have been test driving a Jetta SEL and saw that the 2012 is coming out soon and it keeps mentioning the GLI and I have no clue what that means. Do they make a GLI now or what is that. Can someone explain?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>looks like vw has succeeded at appealing to toyota and honda buyers with their cheap new jetta's like they planned...i mean..you don't know what a gli is? it's the higher performance version of the jetta like the gti to the golf. - <i>Dsvfshj Hjvsdfhj</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>The 2011 comes with EMP horn. - <i>Jacque M</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>The GLI is the performance Jetta, much like the GTI is the performance Golf. It comes with a 2.0 turbo engine producing around 200bhp.
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<br />More details can be found here: http://www.leftlanenews.com/volkswagen-jetta-gli.html
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<br />The SEL is just your regular Jetta. - <i>vavavoom</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-50643467159264044102011-04-15T18:10:00.001-07:002011-04-15T18:10:22.937-07:00Which car is better between the volkswagen passat or the toyota camry?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Which car is better between the volkswagen passat or the toyota camry?... <br />Which car has greater Value & greater on gas?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Ford fusion - <i>noanme</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>If those are the only two choices I would pick the Camry~<br /><br />Edit: You might check out consumerreports.org for a model comparison - <i>The King of Shock and Awe</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>i'd go with VW as its definitely more economical that the camry (i used to have one of these..) - <i>Manas Chittal</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Camry will last 10 to 15 years without a problem very easily... passat not so much not only will it be a hell of a lot more expensive to fix its the more girly of the two - <i>Oscar Valenz</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>The Camry will have higher resale value and less likely to give you problems. VW is the King of Electrical Gremlins. ALL HAIL VW!!! - <i>Jacque M</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>Toyota 4 cylinders have always been a sweet running motors, going all the way to 3rc motor of the early 70's while the V6's have been somewhat trouble prone, especially the 3.0 liter version of this motor. There's a reason that Toyota developed a reputation for being reliable and cheap to run; those 4 cylinder motors can and do run a long time, its not unusual in my experience to see them run 250,000 to 300,000 miles without missing a beat. On the other hand, its extremely rare to see any VW water cooled motor run that long; usually under 200,000 is about all that they are good for (less on the turbo motors!!!).
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<br />The Toyota 4 cylinder (non turbo motors) will run on regular gasolene; Passat motors (unless non turbo and 2003 up--for non turbo motor) require premium fuel of at least 91 octane to run right. Toyota's V6 can run on regular gas in the Camry, not so in the Lexus versions of these motors.
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<br />Toyota 4 cylinder engine is smooth and gets very good milage compared to that of a VW; repair costs are generally less and parts for the most part are less expensive than VW parts (at least in the North American market). A Toyota of any type can be repaired anywhere in America, try that with your Passat, where in some states VW has only one or two dealerships for the whole state.. (ok, you're probably not driving in that state, but the point is that Toyota is everywhere here, VW isn't).
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<br />If comfort, low maintanance costs are your goal, then the Toyota is your choice by far. The VW Passat is your choice if you're a driver; its designed to run all day at 70+ mph with far sharper handling and road feel than the Camry. But, the Camry is getting larger with each generation model update and is now about the size of some full sized cars of just a few years ago. I say this because in some cases this maybe a concern for you, parking in any majour city in the US is hard enough, the bigger it is, the harder it is to park.
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<br />The resale value is a no brainer; the Toyota wins by a country mile. If you get a good discount on the Camry and buy it early enough in the model year, you can drive it for almost a year and loose very little in the way of depreciation. In some cases, a used Toyota can cost about the same amount as a new one!
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<br />I have no axe to grind here; I spent many years working with VW, but in my consulting practice, I take a numbers or value approach to clients and the Camry beats the VW in the economic areas of car ownership easily. - <i>a car nut</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">I am going to buy a Volkswagen Jetta, is there any year that I should avoid buying?... I plan to buy a Volkswagen Jetta this summer, Diesel and standard. I have heard they are very reliable and great on fuel. I am going to buy it used and I would like to buy one no older than a '01. I would like to know if there is a year that has had a lot of issues that I should avoid. Also any other tips you would like to give for buying a used Jetta would be appreciated.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Avoid all of them. Not reliable at all especially used. Save yourself the trouble and money and do not buy one. - <i>PuckStopper1</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>The 99.5 to 03 diesel is the best for economy. They will get mid 50's to upper 60's pretty easily with a manual tranny. They are known for reliability and are pretty simple to work on. The only issues are making sure the timing belt is replaced on schedule and the intake manifold needs cleaned periodically because of soot build up. Do not baby these cars, drive them somewhat aggressively and you will not get the soot build up. - <i>jim s</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Stay away from 02-03, they had several issues not that they were hard or expensive to fix just annoying. Id go for a 05 TDi. - <i>Xnebia</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>While Ford is the king of recalls, VW is the king of electrical gremlins. Avoid. - <i>Jacque M</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>They require a lot of up keep and maintenance and tooling. - <i>Eric</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Does a manual shift VW Golf TDI get better mpg than an automatic trans?... It's boast great mileage, but is that with manual trans only?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>yes -
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<br />manual transmissions almost always get better mileage
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<br />all the best - <i>tom4bucs</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Manual transmissions typically get more mpg but a vw golf regardless of transmission type will get great mileage - <i>Miss D</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>VW golf TDI already gets great mpg and manual makes it better because you can shift it at lower rpms then what a automatic would go to - <i>Qwerty</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>depends on how you drive it but yes most manuals will be better by about 4-10 mpg - <i>flipscadi</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Years ago manuals were the thriftiest.
<br />But now , the difference is so slight, its not discernable.
<br />Case in point; my '06 GTI with manual trans was estimated by EPA at 31 MPG. With the DSG it was 32 MPG.
<br />That really surprised me at the time. But now its normal for a auto trans to best a manual.
<br />However, as others have mentioned, it really depends on how heavy your right foot is..... - <i>fenton</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">2011 Jetta transmission whine?... recently purchased a new 2011 Volkswagen jetta and ive noticed soem weird things and noises. First the transmission makes a high pitched huming noise when accelerating and sometimes the humming pulsates as u speed up its really annoying and ive allready took the care in once they said nothing was wrong and sometimes it shifts funny idk but the noise really bothers me it sounds electrical? only has 500 miles on it!<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>If it was an older car the first thing to suspect would be the differential. Get a second opinion from an independent garage. - <i>GibsonEssGee</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Billy, relax dont worry about it.
<br />If there is really anything amiss with the trans, your warranty will cover it for many , many years of driving.
<br />Our '05 Jetta with 100,000 + superb miles on it never once let us down.
<br />Enjoy your new Jetta.... - <i>fenton</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Relax, you probably just need to break it in. - <i>Karlem bangayan Seventhteen</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Whats great about the volkswagen passat?... How much would a down payment be at 19 with 0 credit?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>There is nothing great about them. If you want a car then it is a car but they are boring, bland rubbish. If you have a steady income then finance shouldn't be a problem. You wouldn't have to put down that much, it just depends where you buy it from but I would thing a few hundred. - <i>Sasquatch</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Stay the hell away from this or the camry both are female cars are you gay? Then I would understand why your choosing between the two - <i>Oscar Valenz</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Let's see. Lots of room, quiet, handles well brakes well, build quality is superior, acceleration is very good. Superior creature comforts, and very safe.
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<br />Down payment is most always 10-15% of the selling price. However, you are not going to get ANY financing on your own without a co-signer.
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<br />Also, to one poster- since when are cars assigned to gender? - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-49727089352636045032011-04-09T18:10:00.001-07:002011-04-09T18:10:24.467-07:00Is a 1963 vw baja pickup truck is it rare?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Is a 1963 vw baja pickup truck is it rare?... I have only seen one and its mine. It looks like a baja bug except ot has a flat bed. I was wondering how many where made and what it is worth?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>I looked on ebay and they only have 1 1980 vw pick up....I never heard of them until now....
<br />I would guess its rare... - <i>Harry</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Check here there may be some info available from the forums section. - <i>Gerry</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Pictures tell all. The only air cooled pickup was the Type II, based on the Type II bus. Then came the Transporter aka the Doka, and then there is the Doka II, Doka Syncro, and there is one that is based off the Eurovan. Of course there was the Rabbit aka Caddy too.<br /><br />What you got is a Sawzall edition. Rare yes, because some previous owner decided to have at it. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>You have a modified bug, nothing special about it. - <i>hotvw1914cc</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>thats called a hack job that is not factory nor is it rare or worth any more money because of it. check this thread out on the samba. you baja pick-up would belong in this category
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<br />http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=149769 - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">how many miles to the gallon dose a volkswagen beetle turbo diesel 2002 get?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>For some reason the figure 47.9 Miles to the Gallon was in my head when I saw this question so I think It is that, which is the same as a VW Golf GTI I think anyway. - <i>Marcus</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>35 city, 44 hwy for a manual transmission; 29 city and 39 hwy for an automatic transmission (EPA estimates under the new rules) - <i>Michael</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>40 or more, pretty much guaranteed....it's second only to Prius and Civic HX... - <i>jldude</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Michael's EPA numbers are generally considered low for these cars. I put nearly 60,000 on my '01 Golf Manual (same engine, trans, frame, basically the same car with different body) and averaged 47.2mpg over the entire 60k miles (track every fuel up on fuelly.com) with highway trips as high as 57mpg. Automatics can expect at least 10% less mileage. - <i>Richard R</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Can I put a TDI engine in a normally aspirated 2001 Jetta?... Who could do that? How much would it cost?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Not without rebuilding most of the car. The fuel tank, wiring harness, computer, exhaust, and clutch are different, if it's automatic, the programming is different. There's a lot more to it than an engine, it would cost way more than that car is worth, even if you had the engine. - <i>D</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Not for less $ than it takes to just trade it for one... - <i>jldude</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>There's a saying in the automotive world: Don't build what you can buy.
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<br />It will be much cheaper, easier and more reliable to just trade your current Jetta in on a TDI model. - <i>Chris</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Engine swapping happens everyday, you just don't here about it alot. Mainly done with high performance engines. People have dropped 6L durmax diesels into mustangs for a 202mph diesel performance car. But it can be done on this level. The big question right now is what type transmission is in the car??? Some 5spd where used on both the gas and the diesel models. You would have to Reference the transmission chart in the Bentley Manual. The simplest, easiest way of doing this (assuming the Transmission can be used) is too used a ALH crate engine with the MECHANICAL fuel pump (the old school pumps that does not require a ecm). These are available for old cars that received upgraded motor. At the min you would need a ALH Crate engine, MECHANICAL Fuel Pump, ALH Exhaust Down pipe, Glow Plug Relay &harness, manual boost Controller for turbo and a few misc things. - <i>Eric</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">Whats a good name for a volkswagen beetle?... <br />Oh and it's silver with a sunroof - <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>broke and busted lol have fun paying for repairs - <i>nick</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>what colour is it? i love those cars! they're so cute!! I named my mums car Delilah haha what about that? :) - <i>freshasadaisy95</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>herbie - <i>jim</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>El Terible. - <i>Jacque M</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Volkswagen Jetta safety and gas mileage?... I'm going to buy a new car soon. I really like the body styling of the Mk2 and Mk3 Volkswagen Jetta. I was wondering if these are safe cars and what sort of gas mileage do they get? I am specifically looking for 5 speed manual, if that makes a difference. Thanks.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>The good: The cabin tech interface in the 2011 Volkswagen Jetta SEL looks good and is easy to use. The Bluetooth phone system offers dial by name through voice command. Fuel economy comes in at the high 20s.
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<br />The bad: The manual transmission only has five gears, and the engine feels short of the claimed 170 horsepower. The navigation system lacks advanced features.
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<br />The bottom line: The 2011 Volkswagen Jetta SEL makes for decent, if unexciting, transportation and includes a good suite of cabin electronics.
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<br />Volkswagen says the petrol version will use 5.3 litres/100km combined and emit 123g/km CO2, while the BlueMotion diesel model will use as little as 4.2 litres/100km and emit 109g/km.
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<br />Have you driven the latest Subaru OUTBACK ?
<br />Give that a go before buying.
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<br />Cheers from DOWNUNDER - <i>Gamerpc</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Don't go for a MKII or MKIII, go for the MKIV or MKV. MKIVs were still "compacts", and were great on gas, and pretty nice to look at too, especially GLI, but I honestly believe the MKV's quality trumps their pros whatever they may have been...just don't go for MKVI unless you like cheap little underpowered crackerboxes. Gas mileage...well depends which model...base Jetta, at least in the US, isn't anything special...I barely squeezed 31mpg out of mine, but safety is ridiculous, I think it was VW's primary focus as the car weighs over 3,200lbs.(compact, yeah right). Get yourself a MKIV GTI and I honestly think you'll be happiest, they come with a 5spd manual, turbo 1.8L, and they're like 2800lbs. Plus you can get a NICE pair of 12" subs in the back to boom down the street in! - <i>jldude</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>They are very safe. - <i>Jacque M</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-70451685011111749822011-04-01T18:10:00.001-07:002011-04-01T18:10:23.404-07:00Old VW Beetle as an everyday car?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">Old VW Beetle as an everyday car?... So lets say you were looking for a first car and you came across a 78 VW beetle. In was in good condition and was about £1000. It's near to where you live, there's no rust on it, why not go for it?
<br />See this is what I ask myself when i see a car like that. I would love an old beetle, but im worried that if i got one, the first winter it saw, it would rust out and die. Surely though, if i kept it in good running order (which if you knew me personally, you know i would.) And put a cover over it at night (on my driveway) it would be ok to use as an everyday car?
<br />I can't stress enough, i am very proud of the cars that my family have owned over the years. The first sign of rust it would be straight to the body shop. .<br />Ok, if not a beetle, what about a Morris Minor 1000 or Ford Escort MK1 or MK2? <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>I use a 76 camper as my daily runner. just keep the oil topped up.
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<br />For more info google VZI, biggest vw forums in europe. there's loads of tips on there. - <i>M1</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>They are under powered, poor braking and bad handling unsafe cars. The snow on top of the car will not cause the rust, it is the snow that gets packed under the car that will rust it. There is a reason there are not a lot of these cars left. I would suggest something else if you want a daily driver - <i>jim s</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>As an ex 3 time Beetle owner back in the days when they were current models i would not touch one with a bargepole today. Nostalgia is fine but common sense is better. By today's standards they are crude and basic in the extreme, the performance is woeful and the handling and braking the same. The only real safety measures are the seat belt. By today's standards they are not even economical. Even when they were being sold new they were an old design and they only sold the numbers they did as they were reputed to be the first real 100,000 mile car (when they came out the average car was getting distinctly 'tired' once it got past 65k.) but it was all a bit of a con really, they were only so long lasting and 'unburstable' because the engine was in such a low state of tune it was hard to abuse them. You would have to be a masochist to want one as a daily driver. - <i>Fairdo4all</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Classics make great first cars. They're a bit cheaper to insure and much cooler than a boring Corsa.
<br />Plenty of people still use old Bugs as everyday cars but do understand it's an old car so don't expect 2011 levels of performance, braking, cornering etc, and be prepared to get into car mechanics or it'll cost a fortune going into the garage every other week for some minor repair.
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<br />There's a lot of fun in owning a classic car, and a VW is a good choice. Google for VW owners clubs and internet forums for loads of good advice.
<br />You'll never be alone with a Bug! - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>classic cars means potential for rust. Just check the bodywork before you get it, and make sure you haven't bought one from an owner who lives near a beach - the salt air WILL cause issues in the longrun.
<br />however, I used to have a VW beetle as my daily run around, and it was great. They do say that VWs are very very reliable. Just check the water and oil regularly
<br />(Come to think of it, I can't remember if the VW beetle has water in it... aren't they usually air cooled :) :) ) - <i>chris surridge</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>The mk1 and mk2.....wait, ALL the escort's were rusting heaps of junk by any standards, so I'd skip them for sure. The Morris holds a little spot in my heart, but who wants a car that suffers from woodworm and wet rot? While the beetle has it's quirks, and no it's not a modern "super mini" or something, it's a good first car being easy to work on, easy to upgrade all round later, and will probably always be collectable so you won't lose money on it!
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<br />Learn how an engine works, get yourself a beginner tool kit if you don't already have one, and enjoy ;) - <i>Neil B</i><br><br><font color="blue">7) </font>The Beetle is total rubbish and why any one would aspire to own one is beyond me. I foolishly have a 1981 Saab 99 Turbo and that is bad enough despite it being streets ahead of a Beetle. Spend a grand on a Polo or a Golf and do yourself one enormous favour. - <i>L G</i><br><br><font color="blue">8) </font>First sign of rust is usually too late,as much as I like these most have terminal tin worm,I think that the only sheet metal on these that I never had to replace was the roof!
<br />and as for winter I really laugh at that,they had for interior heaters a collector/flap doodad on the exhaust manifolds that was supposed to work,mostly it did not,cold car for winter.
<br />There's nothing wrong with old cars,in theory,out of your picks the MK 2 would be safest bet,but you really have to know your stuff or all you'll buy is a mobile bag of rust,and a grand will only buy someone else's trouble,cars you're talking about would be 4k upwards for good,not perfect,but good. - <i>Q</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">74 vw beetle alternator problems?... I have a 74 beetle that I have put two new (re manufactured) alternators and a regulator on it. The alternator still is only putting out 12.50 volts and when I disconnect the battery terminal it dies. Do you think i got another bad alternator or is something else going on??<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Your alternators aren't pitting out any voltage. That's just the battery voltage you're measuring.
<br /> You're probably not getting 12 volts to the exciter lead on the alternator. I'm not sure about 74s, but some Beetles got that voltage from the idiot light circuit. If the light burnt out, the alternator didn't run. - <i>Nomadd</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>It's AMAZING Is this what you are looking for? http://styleasy.info/416839/battery-terminal - <i>kozusko jans</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>What about the regulator? It is what determines your output voltage. If it is the old-style mechanical , it will need to be adjusted.
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<br />Never disconnect either battery terminal when the engine is running. This will cause the alternator to turn full on, ruining the alternator and possibly blowing out light bulbs and electronic stuff. - <i>Kirk</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Kirk is right.
<br />Never take the battery terminal off a running car, or the alternator will quickly fry.
<br />The only other thing I can think of worth mentioning is that if the dash light for the alternator is burned out, then the alternator will not work, because the alternator rotor gets its current to become magnetized, though this bulb. Generators have permanent magnets, but alternators don't, so need input current in order to produce output that is greater than the input.
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<br />Have the alternators and regulators tested outside the car. Most places like Autozone do this for free. Have the new one tested before installation if you are not sure. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Check all connections to the battery. The grounds to the engine/chasis and all the power ones too.
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<br />Yours sounds like a bad main ground.
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<br />ASE Cert Auto Tech, since 1978, 2003 GLI
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<br />had to do both my A2 16v GTI's when i got the same thing happening - <i>sci</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">why have i water and oil in my filter on my vw polo?... i have found which looks like muddy water and oil in my air filter can anyone tell me what causes this
<br />on a vw polo N reg<br />the car has been sitting for a while, there is no water in my oil. no leaks under car. the muddy water is in the small beather pipe which leads to the air filter. They is only oil in with the air filter its self. If any understands what am talking about can you please telling me what maybe causing this regards <br />also there is a very loud knock noise in block<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Sounds like 2 problems there. One, you possibly have water in your oil. That could be a blown head gasket. Two, you have the water/oil mixture on your air filter. This might be a problem with your PCV system.
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<br />Have a trustworthy local mechanic look at it. - <i>rotus</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>u have a blown head gasket r u losing antifreeze but c no puddles? - <i>rodman</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>ok, the oil and water mixture in the air cleaner box can be a combination of condensation and a faulty pcv system. the pcv ( positive crankcase ventilation) system is in place to suck excess pressure fron the inside of the rocker cover these normally come up through the pcv valve through a pipe and back into the air box, if the breather element is blocked or soaked with oil it will then drip into the air box, a faulty pcv system will also cause seals to start to leak or seep a bit over time. the condensation may be related if you only normally use the car for short journeys and it does not get hot enough to evaporate the water. the second issue of the loud knock could be anything from a main bearing gone bad all the way to a small end bearing on the bottom of the piston wearing. best bet there is to get it to a mechanic and get them to look it over. dont be suprised if they tell you its time for a new engine though. it is quite common on the older vw's - <i>Ideal Engines</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>The brown muddy stuff you describe (mayonnaise) is emulsified oil - oil which is trying to mix with water. My guess would be that you do a lot of short journeys in your vehicle as this is a classic cause of mayonnaise in the engine it is caused through condensation the engine never really gets hot enough. The loud noise in the block sounds a little more serious! I would guess big ends and possibly head gasket has gone which is causing the oil in water syndrome. Good luck but I think you got a basket case without some serious work. Cheers, Gizz. - <i>Gizzard Puke</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Years ago I had an old VW Passat with the same problem. The breather pipe from the rocker cover was routed to the air intake before the air filter instead of being on the inlet manifold side of it. An obvious design fault in my humble opinion and different to other makes. This meant that oil and water (condensation) vapour got sucked straight into the air filter instead of being burnt off in the engine. The result was the symptoms you describe, a very mucky air filter. Might be the same with yours. I do not know of any easy legal way to improve it.
<br /> A loud knocking noise is a bad sign though. If there is oil in the sump and the oil pressure is adequate then get someone who knows what they are doing to pass an opinion on it to find out if it is worth repairing.
<br /> Best of luck with it, Bob. - <i>Southpaw</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">Have Modern Volkswagen's Become Just As Unreliable As Any Other Car?... At one time there were a few makes of car, such as VWs and Audis that could be relied upon to cover 150-200k miles+ without too much trouble (with regular servicing).
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<br />After talking to a mechanic and researching on the internet it seems that modern VWs have just as many inherent problems as any other car. Current VW models seem to be engineered to survive just to the end of the manufactures warranty but not much longer before major problems start to occur. Diesel models for example seem to prone to fuel pump and injector problems and dual mass flywheel failures.
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<br />The reason for the question is that I'm looking to by a Golf diesel which I intend to keep for as long as possible. I would like to know; should I buy as new as possible with as low mileage as possible or, would it be better, as some people are recommending, to go for a model from the mid 90's. ?
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<br />What are your opinions ? (thanks)<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>I'm also a mechanic and I'll have to sadly say that it's not quite how bad you think it is, it might be worse. First a lot of cars are actually getting MORE reliable. Ford, for example, was just named the number 4 automaker by JD Power & Associates for the quality of their vehicles. The only cars in front of them are Porsche, Acura, Lexus, and Mercedes. That makes Ford the number ONE non-luxury brand in the world according to this list. And as a mechanic, I can vouch for that, repairs for Fords have been going drastically down the past few years. The only vehicles I still see a lot of problems with are 2010 and before Super Duty Diesels, and ironically that isn't Ford's fault, but Navistar (aka International Harvester) who made the Diesel engines for Fords until this year. This year's Eco-Boost 6.7L is engineered and built by Ford, finally, and had a defect-free launch, which is surprising for a whole new engine.
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<br />VW, on the other hand, has actually been going the other way. I haven't noticed a drastic increase in mechanical break-downs such as problems with engines or transmissions, but they have A LOT of electrical issues for some reason. That's why I would make sure to point that out to anyone interested in VW, that in the past 10 years or so they've been plagued with a lot of electrical issues. But good thing is their engines and transmissions still seem to hold up and those are the most important parts... - <i>Kenneth</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>the 90s to 05 would be a bad time to get a vw thats where most problems come from vw work out out in 2006 your better off getting a 2011 vw golf tdi and my sister has 2010 vw golf tdi and she put 50,000 miles on it and she has no problems and she gets 50 mpg. - <i>James</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>The Jetta is a very good car. - <i>Jacque M</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Not sure where you're getting your data, but Audi and VW have been below average performers for decades. - <i>Jay S</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">What are the sports car models of volkswagons?... I dont know alot about them and i hear you can make them pretty quick, so whats the sport version of like the. Jetta, and hatchback. Thx for help. And which years the best for modding and how to improve it<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>In the US, there are really only two worth mentioning. the Jetta GLI and the Golf GTI. Both have the same engine. Parts and modifications are readily available. A simple software flash can give you another 50HP in both cars. More extensive mods such as replacing turbos and such can give you up to 300HP and remain "streetable". There are MKV GTI's running into the 11's but they are HIGHLY modified. - <i>Louis G</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>What Loius said is completely true and spot on his facts. But he left out one sport car and that is the Bug turbo... Its pretty much a Sport Version of the bug with a turbo in it and it has a automatic spoiler that comes out when you are going over 60 mph. - <i>Bart</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Some of the older models are wonderful as well, once you go A! chassis you never go back, I have owned 3 different A1 body cars.
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<br />A 79 golf, an 82 cabby, and an 83 rocco wolfie.
<br />All of which are about as safe as a tin can strapped to a rocket, but good god they weigh about as much as one as well :D - <i>Brandon</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Old Corrado, old and new scirrocco, new vw phaeton has some very quick models, and of course there's the Bugatti Veyron ;) - <i>Neil B</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-8830435960612097262011-03-31T18:10:00.001-07:002011-03-31T18:10:24.455-07:0074 vw beetle alternator problems?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">74 vw beetle alternator problems?... I have a 74 beetle that I have put two new (re manufactured) alternators and a regulator on it. The alternator still is only putting out 12.50 volts and when I disconnect the battery terminal it dies. Do you think i got another bad alternator or is something else going on??<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Your alternators aren't pitting out any voltage. That's just the battery voltage you're measuring.
<br /> You're probably not getting 12 volts to the exciter lead on the alternator. I'm not sure about 74s, but some Beetles got that voltage from the idiot light circuit. If the light burnt out, the alternator didn't run. - <i>Nomadd</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>It's AMAZING Is this what you are looking for? http://styleasy.info/416839/battery-terminal - <i>kozusko jans</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>What about the regulator? It is what determines your output voltage. If it is the old-style mechanical , it will need to be adjusted.
<br />
<br />Never disconnect either battery terminal when the engine is running. This will cause the alternator to turn full on, ruining the alternator and possibly blowing out light bulbs and electronic stuff. - <i>Kirk</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>Kirk is right.
<br />Never take the battery terminal off a running car, or the alternator will quickly fry.
<br />The only other thing I can think of worth mentioning is that if the dash light for the alternator is burned out, then the alternator will not work, because the alternator rotor gets its current to become magnetized, though this bulb. Generators have permanent magnets, but alternators don't, so need input current in order to produce output that is greater than the input.
<br />
<br />Have the alternators and regulators tested outside the car. Most places like Autozone do this for free. Have the new one tested before installation if you are not sure. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Check all connections to the battery. The grounds to the engine/chasis and all the power ones too.
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<br />Yours sounds like a bad main ground.
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<br />
<br />ASE Cert Auto Tech, since 1978, 2003 GLI
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<br />had to do both my A2 16v GTI's when i got the same thing happening - <i>sci</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">Is it possible to convert a 1965 VW Beetle to an automatic transmission?... I have a 1965 VW Beetle and I want to convert the transmission. Is this possible? And how much will that run me?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>It's difficult to obtain the automatics that were used in these vehicles, much less all the related parts. The automatics weren't a true automatic, you still had to shift the gears, they just had an automatic clutch, so they were never popular. There weren't even offered until 1968, and were dropped in '76. You'd really have to find a complete parts car, and see if you could make it work with the older model. Realistically it would cost more than the car is worth. - <i>D</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>VW used a semi-automatic transmission in some Beetles (from 1968-1976). I'd assume that if you can find one of those semi-auto transaxles, you could swap it in place of the manual and have it fit etc. Fitting a more conventional automatic transmission to the rear-engined Beetle might be more of a challenge, but I bet somebody has done it before...ask around at any VW Beetle clubs etc., you can find.
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<br />Fwiw the VW semiauto trans had to be shifted manually (via the shift lever which also actuated a vacuum operated clutch) but you don't use a clutch pedal. The transmission has a torque converter like a conventional automatic so you can take off from a stop without using a clutch pedal as well. It's automatic (clutch pedal free) but must be shifted from gear to gear by the driver. - <i>Ben Linus</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>There is the auto-stick shift that is clutchless.
<br />It could easily be put in if you could find one.
<br />They were started in 68, and not many made.
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<br />There is also the type III full automatic transmission that will easily fit the engine and mounts.
<br />The problem is the drive axles.
<br />The 65 had swing arms with solid axles.
<br />The auto type III had independent rear suspension with drive shafts with flexible double universal CV joints. You would have to change the rear suspension to IRS for the axles to work.
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<br />I would suspect it would run around $1000. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>check out www.cbperformance.com or pasificcustoms.com for a automatic conversion kit for your bug, - <i>KAM</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Do you think a 98 volkswagen bug is a cute car?... ...a white one.<br />You guys make me feel alot better...this is my first car<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>YES!!!
<br />so cute!! - <i>Aub O</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>yes! yes! yes! i used to have a 99 bug, and miss it immensely. great car, but not so much in the snow. i loved mine to death! - <i>Dearsombody</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Sure, for a girl - <i>Dave87gn</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">What sensors can you clean in a jetta 1.8t?... I have a 2002 vw jetta 1.8 turbo
<br />I just cleaned the IAT and now I'm working on the MAF.
<br />I was wondering if there was any other easy sensors you can clean like maybe for the turbo or something?
<br />If not what else is there that's cheap if not free to check on.
<br />Thanks<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Run a can of Sea Foam through the intake. You would be amazed how much carbon will be removed. Leave the rest of the sensors alone. They are happy the way they are. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>You did the ones that need it most often.
<br />The O2 sensor could be done, but only if there is lots of carbon accumulation.
<br />To avoid needing to do the IAT and MAF in the future, you could splice long tubing and metal condenser into the PCV hose, so that oil and water foam never gets up there.
<br />In cold weather there is just too much condensation the way the system was designed.
<br />If you can cool and condense it before it gets there, you will never have trouble with these sensor again. - <i>Motorhead</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Be careful cleaning the MAF. you can very easily damage it. - <i>Louis G</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Old VW Beetle as an everyday car?... So lets say you were looking for a first car and you came across a 78 VW beetle. In was in good condition and was about £1000. It's near to where you live, there's no rust on it, why not go for it?
<br />See this is what I ask myself when i see a car like that. I would love an old beetle, but im worried that if i got one, the first winter it saw, it would rust out and die. Surely though, if i kept it in good running order (which if you knew me personally, you know i would.) And put a cover over it at night (on my driveway) it would be ok to use as an everyday car?
<br />I can't stress enough, i am very proud of the cars that my family have owned over the years. The first sign of rust it would be straight to the body shop. .<br />Ok, if not a beetle, what about a Morris Minor 1000 or Ford Escort MK1 or MK2? <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>I use a 76 camper as my daily runner. just keep the oil topped up.
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<br />For more info google VZI, biggest vw forums in europe. there's loads of tips on there. - <i>M1</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>They are under powered, poor braking and bad handling unsafe cars. The snow on top of the car will not cause the rust, it is the snow that gets packed under the car that will rust it. There is a reason there are not a lot of these cars left. I would suggest something else if you want a daily driver - <i>jim s</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>As an ex 3 time Beetle owner back in the days when they were current models i would not touch one with a bargepole today. Nostalgia is fine but common sense is better. By today's standards they are crude and basic in the extreme, the performance is woeful and the handling and braking the same. The only real safety measures are the seat belt. By today's standards they are not even economical. Even when they were being sold new they were an old design and they only sold the numbers they did as they were reputed to be the first real 100,000 mile car (when they came out the average car was getting distinctly 'tired' once it got past 65k.) but it was all a bit of a con really, they were only so long lasting and 'unburstable' because the engine was in such a low state of tune it was hard to abuse them. You would have to be a masochist to want one as a daily driver. - <i>Fairdo4all</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5806469587498584152.post-2664175454313758322011-03-25T18:10:00.001-07:002011-03-25T18:10:22.949-07:00I am wanting to have my mk5 golf sprayed white, it is currently black....?<font color="orange"><b>Question 1</b></font><br><font color="blue">I am wanting to have my mk5 golf sprayed white, it is currently black....?... And i was wondering roughly how much a full respray will cost me ? and if anyone knows of a great place to go in the north Lanarkshire area ? Help much appreciated.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>Color change is expensive. I say do not do it. It is very hard to paint everything to make it look right. - <i>jim s</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>BIG JOB!!! JUst buy a white one..... - <i>julie who</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Any paint shop will give you a price, but it will be eye watering. It will also devalue the car considerably. Although you may not care about that now it will hit you hard when you come to sell. - <i>Bazza</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>It would be way too much work and expensive on such a new car. Best would be to trade it in on a white one. - <i>Chris</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Anything can be done at a price. The trouble is that the engine bay, inside the rear hatch and within the door frames all need to be done. It is very costly to do the job properly and when you come to try to sell, no amount of reassurance will convince some potential buyer that your car has not been in a bad smash etc. - <i>L G</i><br><br><font color="blue">6) </font>Sell it and buy a white one. You might lose a few hundred quid doing that but that's nothing compared to the cost of getting a bodyshop to spray it a different colour.
<br />You're looking at a grand for a cheapo job that will look crap and where you'll still see the original colour when you open the bonnet and doors, to nearer £3k for them to take the doors, bonnet, glass etc out the car and do it properly. - <i>EvelynThe ModifiedDog.</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 2</b></font><br><font color="blue">Will changing the stereo in my 2010 VW Jetta void my warranty?... I have a 2010 VW Jetta that is still under the bumper-to-bumper warranty. I want to get my stereo upgraded to the "Premium 8" satellite radio. (P/N: RCD-510) I also need to get the "shark fin" antenna installed too. Is this possible?
<br />Will doing this (or having it done) void my warranty?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>No. The warranty is for engine, transmission, suspension, etc. - <i>Dutch</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>That should work fine. And if you are worried about the warranty, have the dealer install the units. This will ensure the warranty is good. - <i>cjo84070</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>cjo is right, because if you do it yourself, you have to reset the CAN-BUS, which can only be done with special tools. If I recall correctly, that 'shark fin' you mention, is only on Audis. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>I believe you may find that the alarm system "routes through" the stereo system so a word with your dealer would not go amiss. - <i>L G</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>A couple of incorrect pieces of information have been stated here, just to specify...
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<br />A new car warranty can't be voided in it's entirety as the result of adding aftermarket parts or equipment. There is something called the Magnum-Moss Warranty Act that gives you specific rights in this arena. The basic idea is that if you change out something like the radio, and you have a problem with part of your ignition system, then as long as the dealer can't conclusively prove that you changing the radio caused the ignition component to fail, then they will have to honor warranty terms for that component.
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<br />Also, even if new parts are installed by an authorized VW dealer, they will not carry the new car warranty unless they were installed prior to delivery on your specific car. This clause pertains to situations like a VW dealership installing VW Driver Gear lowering springs or a premium radio like the RCD-510 or RNS-510. Unfortunately neither of these items will be covered by the original warranty on your car, or the warranty that previously covered the RNS-510 or RCD-510 if it was purchased pre-owned. New parts from VW are covered by a separate 12 month warranty.
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<br />Hopefully this information helps clear up those issues for you. As far as the installation goes, it is fairly straight forward. You will need to partially remove the headliner to install the wires going to the new sharkfin antenna. Additionally, you may need to perform some coding using a VAG-COM to make sure the the RCD-510 properly interacts with your MFD display and multifunction steering wheel, if applicable. - <i>gti_4cefed4</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 3</b></font><br><font color="blue">Did the old Volkswagons really float and if so, do the new ones?... <br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>the old beeltes do float for a while, if all of the seals are still good. a new one would certainly sink. - <i>cw147</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Yep they are a forgotten gem. - <i>Donald White</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>Most cars will float for a while. But then what? Are you gonna paddle it like a canoe? If you want to cross the English Channel. or motor out to Catalina Island from the coast of California, this is what you need.
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<br />http://www.amphicarparts.com/images/amphicar01.jpg
<br />http://www.retro.net/keywords/1962_Amphicar/1962_Amphicar_30.jpg - <i>catmandew</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>yes the Schwimmwagen was made to float. it was used in WWII. the beetle were so air tight that when new and if the seals are perfect on a restored one you need to crack the window a little to get the door to close. most cars will float for a little while as the air in the cabin is lighter than water so until water fills most of the passenger compartment it will bob around on the surface for a little bit.
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<br />Schwimmwagen - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZlfzM2p-6g
<br />http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lXV3p_c5PU
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<br />this is how air tight a bug is - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhb_ipCDIII - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Most cars will float for a quite sometime if the Japanese tsunami was anything to go by. - <i>L G</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 4</b></font><br><font color="blue">Which is the best car; the Volkswagen Jetta, the Chevy Cruze, or the Kia Forte?... I'm on a tight budget and safety is a priority.<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>They are most likely all pretty safe. If you are tight on a budget, avoid the VW. - <i>scott_1234567890</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>Jetta Jetta Jetta<br /><br />just make sure it has the 2.5 and not the wimpy 2.0l engine - <i>Darius</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>CR is the best source for that info.
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<br />Dont buy anything w/o reading Consumer Reports, CR. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/index.htm A non-profit testing organization. Free site for basic info. Also @ libraries & bookstores.
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<br />Honda ranks #1 in Consumer Reports for 2011. Subaru, Toyota, Volvo & Ford follow in order.
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<br />BMW and Mercedes were down-rated for reliability, with Mercedes in 10th place.
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<br />GM & Chrysler were 12th & 13th.
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<br />Vehicles were rated for performance, reliability, fuel efficiency and other factors.
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<br />http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704615504576172500918475430.html?mod=WSJ_article_MoreIn_AutoIndustryNews Wall St Journal. - <i>Top Source</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>If safety is a priority, take the Jetta. - <i>Chris</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>Among these three, the Volkswagen Jetta is the more solid, quick, luxurious and safe car.
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<br />If you go for the 1.4TSI engine on the Jetta, it would blow you away.
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<br />The Kia Forte and the Chevy Cruze are better-than-average Korean cars (the Cruze might wear a Chevy badge, but it is engineered by Koreans). The Kia Forte offers good value, and the Cruze is big on style and space.
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<br />However, none can match the solidity and the performance of the Jetta (TSI engine-spec.)
<br />The Jetta is based on the Volkswagen Golf; one of the best hatchbacks of all time. - <i>byAudiQuattro</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br><font color="orange"><b>Question 5</b></font><br><font color="blue">Question about my 1974 Superbeetle?... My dad and I have been working on this 1974 Superbeetle car and on the back it has the little VW sign but also another one that says "swinger". What's significant about this model.?<br /></font><br><font color="orange"><b>Answers</b></font><br><font color="blue">1) </font>AFAIK, the Swinger moniker was used only on Dodge Dusters and Darts. I know of no "Swinger" model trim used on VWs. - <i>The Ghost of Harrison</i><br><br><font color="blue">2) </font>type in your web search box 1974 superbeetle wikipedia ? and go to the results page and click the link, it will explain what changes were made for a superbeetle. - <i>roger</i><br><br><font color="blue">3) </font>No such thing... added on. Please remove it to preserve the originality. - <i>djaca70</i><br><br><font color="blue">4) </font>the DRIVER!!! - <i>KAM</i><br><br><font color="blue">5) </font>it didnt come from factory like that trust me. its something a PO added over the last 35 years. unless your car was originally gold in color, had a wood paneling interior and a 3 spoke steering wheel you have a normal everyday 74 super - <i>Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)</i><br><br><br>_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________ <br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0