how far can I drive with grinding brake sound? (VW golf MKII 1985)?

Question 1
how far can I drive with grinding brake sound? (VW golf MKII 1985)?...  I'm away for Christmas/New Year at the moment and it's a problem to get this fixed here and now. I have a 300 mile drive home in a couple of days. Is that going to be OK (presuming I need new pads)?

The grinding sound just started yesterday.

Answers
1)   Sounds like your brake shoes have worn through to the rivets. If you continue to drive not only will your braking be effected but you will cause some damage to your cars brake discs and or drums. - asseenfromoutside

2)   not very long; you should have your brakes checked asap - Greg P

3)   brake pads are down to the metal backing so its metal to metal when the brakes are applied, eventually the discs will wear through and shatter,so it is common sense to drive nowhere while it is in this condition - J R

4)   There is an indicator pad on your brake bads that is designed to sound terrible when your brakes are low, this is made of soft metal so it doesnt grind into your discs. I think your will be able to cover 300 miles easy. just make sure you get them changed. - Stewart

5)   do NOT drive at any distance or speed with such a noise. it indicates metal on metal and if it gets too hot? or brakes are applied heavily may cause it to have metal to metal bonding ( seize) this will be virtually instantaneous and has caused a few accidents in past . one guy has his car jerked into path of a lorry when his front brake seized causing car 2 be written off an d personal injuries.. to boot his insurance company refused to pay out so he lost car and still had repayments on HP to make etc.
simply isn't worth risking!! get them changed asap ( today) as if you were to have an accident ? any insurance company checking your car WILL find the brakes and a they are not being maintained ( a condition of your policy) then it will cancel insurance and any payouts and claims will eb down to you. not worth it to put off a few quid now. your car. your safety and passengers are not worth the risk. avoid comments such as ' it should be fine' a these folk tend to have ideals not based in real world of legal and practical matters. - hornchurchmale

6)   I wouldn't drive it further than the garage when it opens again on Monday.

It sounds like the brakes are worn down to nothing and the car is dangerous to drive. All that needs to happen is for someone to suddenly walk out in front of you and you'll have a death on your conscience for the rest of your life because you knew your brakes were faulty. - EvelynThe ModifiedDog.

7)   By the time you get home you will also need new discs - that is if you make it with underperforming brakes. - Timbo is here


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Question 2
VW golf issues, please help with any knowledge or ideas of prices to fix?...  i have a 2001 (y) golf 1.4 engine I have a couple of queries,
1st the ABS light has just come on, can this be a simple problem like a fuse or something or is it usually more serious? any guide of what i might be expecting to pay in the worse case would be good so i can prepare myself :-)
finally also the central locking does not work, this is a problem since i bought thew car a few months ago, I was aware and thought i will get round to fixing eventually, can this usually be a simple fix or can it also be a big job?
Any info / advice greatly appreciated!

Answers
1)   ABS fault needs seen to by someone with a diagnostic code reader to see what the problem is. Hard to guess a price, might be a couple of quid, might be hundreds. Central locking often goes on Golfs, it's probably a bad connection in the control unit in the drivers door. Fiddly but not difficult. - EvelynThe ModifiedDog.

2)   computer diagnostic will vary from place to place but expect £60 maybe more.
In many cases the central locking problems can be caused by a bad connection on the tailgate. This is caused by water from the rear wash wipe getting into the connections and causing corrosion, if you are confident enought then you could take the tailgate door card out and have a look to see if this is the case otherwise it isnt a particuarly big job and shouldnt cost a lot.
Asided from this as mentioned the control units in each door are known to fail and its a pretty common problem so it could be one of these, these can generally either be replaced or resoldered. Again not a massive job. - H

3)   Get a Bentley Manual. http://www.bentleypublishers.com/volkswagen/repair-information/vw-golf-jetta-gti-99-05-lpv800.html

Get Vag-Com. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/index.html

Scan the car. Find the fault code. Use the Bentley to remove the part. Order a new part. Use the Bentley to properly install the part. Use Vag-Com to clear the codes.

Both a sort of expensive. $110 USD for the Bentley and $250 USD for the Vag-Com

If you only buy one....buy the Bentley it's absolutely essential to owning a VW. - Nick

4)   ABS will not be a fuse - most common fault will be a wheel speed sensor needs replaceing and thet will likley be at least £100
Central locking- -rarely cheap or easy to sort out. May need a new controller which is expensive. Might be best to live without it if you can - Timbo is here


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Question 3
Is a 2004 vw r32 with 19k miles worth 18 thousand?...  

Answers
1)   Look it up http://www.kbb.com

"BLUE BOOK® SUGGESTED RETAIL VALUE
In excellent condition $19,285

Key word is excellent. Trade-in and private party values are lower for good condition which is the condition of most cars. - Oogoo

2)   not to me - ladystang

3)   18 thosand rupees yes
pounds no
dollar no - hitmanjay99uk

4)   I would buy it if it's in great shape! - Rami


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Question 4
VW Beetle as a first car?...  The car would be a first car for a teenage girl. However, during a test drive, I felt the car had some severe blind spots. Has anyone else had problems with blind spots on the VW Beetle? Any problems/successes are worth sharing! Looking to collect all information possible.

Note: Only looking at her driving the car until she graduates. (2 years) Please don't push the used car route, her father is not going for that.
**the beetle would be a 2010, new. So, it would still be under warranty and whatnot. :)

Answers
1)   Not a good first car.
Expensive repairs.
Try a Ford Focus.
Good "first" car. - oldster

2)   Everything I have read has said that they have terrible visibility, and are just uncomfortable to drive. But my sister has one, and she is a terrible driver, and has yet to crash, so your daughter should be fine. - Xander

3)   You also should compare car insurance quotes for cars before buying one, for example here - carquotes.fateback.com - Peter

4)   VW's in general are poor cars as far as quality and reliability. The VW beetle is no exception. Don't fall for the cuteness, this car will be nothing but a pain to own even for only two years. I owned one of these cars and had the following issues: Mass Airflow Sensor failure, Rear trunk latch wouldn't open, The radio was not picking up any signals, the hood latch fell off, flickering headlights, finally burning out headlights and taillights. My VW was brand new straight off the truck and I had all of these issues within one year of ownership. STAY AWAY! - John S


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Question 5
correct tire pressure for '11 VW Jetta?...  My mom bought a new 2011 VW Jetta. I can't find the manual, just wanted to pump up the tires to correct manufacturer's pressure since they came with 40 PSI all four tires. I also cant find any stickers anywhere with this information. please help. thanks.

Answers
1)   Should be on a sticker, On the inside of the door cill drivers side, But 40 seems a bit high, Most cars are generally mid 30s. - i eat monkeys

2)   it either on the side when you open the driver door or when you open the fuel door its probably there, all cars have that info in one of these two locations - Echoz E

3)   I would take the model number off the tires that you have on it, and then look it up online. You may have different tires than the spec says, and that may mean you need a different pressure than the thing in the door says. - j0shinator


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2003 Volkswagen Jetta girl car?

Question 1
2003 Volkswagen Jetta girl car?...  I'm a 16 year old guy and me and my dad have been looking for a first car for me and he saw a 2003 Volkswagen jetta. its dark grey and has tinted windows. but is it a chick car?
here's a picture of what it look like:
http://www.executiveautogroup.net/images/2003_VW_Jetta_Jade_001.jpg

Answers
1)   Not a chick car...I know a bad ass hockey player who drives one... - lildevil112878

2)   Jetta's are great cars my brother has one, and they're pretty good on gas as well! :) - chelsakid!

3)   you need a 3/4 ton 4 wheel drive Chevy pickup and you won't need to worry about it. - Randy W

4)   Heck no :) The flatter front end makes it, personally, seem more masculine than the newer jettas. They're really roomy inside, too. Good car. :) - MeridethGrey

5)   This car indeed was made by VW to appeal to females. That said, they are decent cars and as a first car, I think I would overlook 'gender' if you find one in good shape (unless it's a beetle...certainly can't drive that, lol).

If you like it get it...throw some speakers in it and find a chick to sit in the passenger seat...

Good luck. - Danny

6)   It's not a chick car like a Beetle is but don't get it unless it's a vr6. The 1.8t motor is highly unreliable, especially in the hands of a 16 year old. - Nick


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Question 2
How reliable and confortable is the 2006 new shape VW Passat estate,150 000?...  150,000 miles,one company owner from new,full service history.

Answers
1)   its a great car ..and the mileage is no problem ..but it would need to be a diesel ..i was in a passat taxi last week ..a 2006 ..380.000 miles ...never been touched ..and no rattles - boy boy

2)   I think its a vw and about anytime now something expensive is due to break, 150,000 I hope it was cheap, I would consider a honda, a nissan, a toyota, or a subaru before a vw - say it again

3)   Unless it's seriously cheap I wouldn't touch it. VWs aren't as bullet proof as people think and there could be some serious bills just round the corner, particularly if it's a Diseasel. - EvelynThe ModifiedDog.

4)   There should not be a serious problem with the car with a full history. However, unless your annual mileage is low I would always say that 150k is time to be getting rid and not buying. You do have the benefit of a smart modern and comfortable car which is far better than the comparable cars offered by Peugeot, Ford and Vauxhall. We have the TDI (140 bhp) at work, 2008 in Black our chief loves it and he has access to a Volvo XC 90, Mitsubishi Warrior, and his own Aston Martin V12 Volante. - L G

5)   as long as the car has been maintained, you're golden.
People who are saying "vw's are garbage" probably haven't taken care of them. As long as you run approved synthetic oil, fuel that meets the octane rating of the car, and do the maintenance on it, it will be a great car for you - brendan_435


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Question 3
what paint would i use to dechrome my vw car badge?...  

Answers
1)   Gold - David Uecfs

2)   Any colour but make sure it looks good pro bally sliver or gold - Tony Hawk 1234

3)   Paint does not remove chrome. - Joe Blows

4)   you mean paint over it? Just use black, white, or body color paint. - Louis G

5)   Chromic acid removes chromium plating. It may may a mess of your badge as if it is plastic there will be a base metal such as copper underneath. The easiest way is to remove it, clean it well and spray it matt/satin black or similar. - Bazza


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Question 4
Recently brought a VW Golf 1.8T W reg and the drivers side footwell is wet...HELP?...  I have put it in the garage twice now the first time they stripped off the door pannel and re sealed it, the second time he said it was leaking down behind the fuse box and the pedals. So he dried it all out and put the carpet and all back in but it is still leaking! Reluctant to go to a vw garage due to the labour cost but wishing I did now as already spent £500 quid an its still not repaired anyone else had a similar problem?
No sunroof but thanks everyone for your answers so far gonna have a good look tomorrow!

Answers
1)   it is probably why the other owner got rid of it. - peter p

2)   You need to trace where the leak is coming from. Does it have a sunroof? They always end up leaking in my experience.
Other than that, strip out all the carpets and trim, then sit inside it while someone plays a hosepipe around all the vents, windows, seals etc to see where the water's getting in.
I'm assuming it IS just water we're talking about here, and not engine coolant, in which case it's your heater matrix. - EvelynThe ModifiedDog.

3)   Someone else asked this, someone mentioned that air-con radiators behind the dash drip condensed water into a tray (look at your fridge), there's a drain pipe down to the outside. If it's blocked, the tray overflows and drips into the footwell. - Atavist

4)   sunroof drains
get it fixed under recall - james


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Question 5
Can i get an upgrade for the headlights on my Golf GT?...  I have a golfMk5 GT the front headlights are not very bright in comparison to my Landrover can I get an upgrade or brighter lamps or something

Answers
1)   if you car hasnt been fitted with xenon lights already then it may be worth looking into.
They can prove a fairly costly upgrade but are a selling as they are an extra. - H

2)   the MK5 golf GTI came with factory HID xenon lights. You should be able to swap in those units, but it will not be cheap. - Louis G

3)   Forget the HID lights as from next year ANY vehicle with non OEM HID lights will fail the MOT.

Try some Osram nightbreaker bulbs as they have good reviews. I also suspect that there may be a problem with the wiring as to be worse than a Landy's lights the must be truly dire. - who_is_jack_shit

4)   You can get upgrade bulbs (like the nightbreakers) and they are pretty good. Also look at Ring Xenon Max. as well.

http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/Osram-Night-Breaker
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/Ring-Xenon-Max


You CAN also upgrade to HID lights, and as long as you use a decent kit that gives the same beam pattern, almost all MOT stations will pass them happily. Some of the cheaper kits give poor beam patterns that cause problems with standard lenses. They are not EC stamped, so not strictly road legal, but I;ve heard of few problems. Just don't go for 8000K or above bulbs as these are too blue.

http://www.hids4u.co.uk - Jonathan Elder


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I have a volkswagen jetta 2.0L and I wonder what can I do to increase My power?

Question 1
I have a volkswagen jetta 2.0L and I wonder what can I do to increase My power?...  It is a 99.5 Mk4 with a 2.0L That makes 115hp. I think is to low for me lol, so I want more power,
Before buying this car I was looking for a 18.T but I found this for 1800 bucks. There is nothing wrong with it but I wonder If I can make it fast as the 1.8T?

Answers
1)   you would have tyo do a good amount to the 2.slow might as well save up and sell your car and buy a 1.8T or suck it up

but you good be a little bit faster with intake and exhaust - ....

2)   K and N Recleanable/Rechargable Air Filter Kit. - Fresh Prince of India

3)   Yeah the K&N air filter is a good start and also put in NGK iridium spark plugs. - Matt D

4)   Cheapest to expensive. K and N filter, Headers, Hi flow cat, Exhaust then a powerchip which requires the use of premium grade fuel to get the benefits. If you really want to spend money engine work flow it/balance it. Really the best bang for your buck if you want more than 50% power buy a turbo kit for around 4.5k. Since its own 99 wouldn't turbo it anyway. - DrkLce

5)   2 ways to get as much power as the 1.8t

1 turbo the 2.0 with an aftermarket kit
or
2 do the swap to 1.8t

cold air intakes, exhausts, and all the ricer stickers and wings are not going to give you more power!! - Bernie_Ros

6)   VR6 all the way homie ! - mr VR6

7)   its never going to be as quick as the 1.8 20v turbo unless you spend a bit money on it but u can get it to about 130 bhp by getting it remapped but it u get a k and n filter and exhaust before a remap you could get it to around 135 to 140 bhp the revo remap is good - Norman H

8)   Be glad you didn't get the 1.8t. It's a terrible motor, not to mention slow as hell. It only develops 148hp (not rated at the wheels). Your 2.0l will outlast the 1.8t by tens of thousands of miles.

Do a GIAC Chip for 5-12hp and 5-12ft.tq gains (when coupled with exhaust and CAI) -giac.com
Euro Sport Accessories exhaust for 5-8hp gain - eurosportacc.com
Euro Sport Accessories Mk4 Cool-Flo Race Intake System for 3-8hp gain -eurosportacc.com


Those are your options for under $1000ea - Nick


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Question 2
Which tires for my 2006 VW Passat?...  I'm cluless about tires...

What tires would you recommend for my 2006 VW Passat? I live in Nashville, TN so the weather here is not very temperamental (2010 flood excluded). I would however like some tires that have pretty good tread because I occasionally travel to Asheville, NC where there they can get an abundance of ice and snow in the winter.

Any recommendations?

Answers
1)   local tire shop..get all season,,,i like aggressive mud and sno but most like something quieter...shop/look at tire rack to see what others recommend and get idea of what you want..i prefer name brand tires..BFG,,good year,,,consider what you have,,,maybe buy the same,,but many new cars come with hideously expensive tires,,no need to overspend...i live in SW virginia...near Bristol TN..snow country - pedro7of9

2)   Go on tirerack.com- huge selection, and reviews from owners of particular tires. - djaca70

3)   Go down to Firestone Complete Auto Care on Broad Street.
Tell them how much money you're willing to spend and they will take care of you. I travel to Nashville often and some complete waste of space slashed two tires on my car. I went there the next morning and they went above and beyond and gave me a great price.
Your run of the mill mud and snow tire will be fine for what you probably need. - Bajthejino

4)   Continental Extreme Contact DWS

I have them on my 2008 GTI. They are great tires. Good in dry weather, excellent in the wet, and pretty decent in the snow too. As far as all season tires go they are one of the best. - Louis G

5)   As for tire brands, i would reccomend HANKOOK tires, GoodYear Tires, Michellin Tires - E-Y

6)   Continental ExtremeContact DWS is a popular tire. With adequate tread (where the "S" is still showing), you can get by ice/snow in NC. Autosock does help also in emergencies. - cant_think_of_1


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Question 3
How much is my 1973 super beetle worth?...  

Answers
1)   $300.00 - Tommy

2)   About 100 dollars...
But today I your lucky day!
I'll give 200 cash !!! - serio

3)   About $2,000 - $3,000, unless it is in factory condition (stock parts, original finish, no scratches dents, scuffs, etc).

If it is in factory condition, you could get anywhere from $5000 - $12,000, depending on if you can find an appropriate buyer. An auction house might be your best bet, but I personally don't see you getting much out of it in this day and age. A 1973 Beetle just doesn't have a huge market anymore.

Best of luck! - Ricky Peña

4)   Does it run? How many miles on it? How's the interior? How's the paint? How much tread left on the tires? Is there any body damage? Is there any history of damage?

After you answer all those questions and I get to drive it I could tell you what it's worth. - Howard L

5)   £50 for scrap. - Suki Suki Tendorrar

6)   go to www.thesamba.com and see how much a super beetle like yours is going for?and than you will know about how much your bug is worth. - KAM


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Question 4
why does my 96 vw waste so much gas?...  i have a 96 vw golf and the gas seems to run out all the time. is there something that those cars have that makes them waste gas very quickly
its a 2.0 litter and the model is a GL.

Answers
1)   do you know what can of engine it has? also if the check engine light its on, its a good idea to have the codes read (autozone does it for free) the trouble code that it shows could help you figure out in which direction to look for the problem. - Bernie_Ros

2)   Have you ever done a full tune up?
Oil and filter, spark plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, etc.
Could be any number of basic maintenance things. 2.0 should get good mileage. - JF

3)   maybe its time for a new 02/oxygen sensor ? best bet is 2 scan the car with vag-com . - mr VR6

4)   You could also have a leak, ignition timing off, bad plug wire, etc.
Also write down the miles covered between fills.
You may be driving further than you realize.
City driving also uses twice as much gas as the highway. - Motorhead

5)   All those things that everyone named as the possible problem would cause the check engine light to come on. So if your check engine light is on get it check out. If not it probably needs a tune up, especially if it's a high mileage car and it hasn't been done in a while. That may also be another issue, if cars have a lot of miles on them they tend to get less efficient. BTY, what do you mean it runs out all the time.Do you put about $5 in it and then wonder why it's empty again after you've been driving all day? What kind of gas mileage do you get out of the car? - RS


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Question 5
Is it okay to use a BOSCH part in my 2000 VW jetta?...  I need to get my throttle body replaced, and am looking not to spend $600 on a new one from a volkswagen dealer, and I found a few websites that after BOSCH and VOS throttle bodies that say they are meant for my model of jetta (GLS)... I am just not sure if BOSCH (or VOS) parts work just as well as an authentic VW part... anyone have experience with this?

Answers
1)   i believe VW uses bosch parts,,my advice..get parts with lifetime warranty rather than 30/90 day..they are made better and worth the small extra u pay - pedro7of9

2)   Your VW is full of Bosch parts already so the throttle body probably comes off the same Bosch production line as it's VW counterpart, it just gets stamped Bosch instead of VW. - GibsonEssGee

3)   Bosch is a quality part, I would not hesitate to put it on my vehicle. - Poppy

4)   sure you can use them if they are made for your engine. but maybe all it needs is cleaned out inside. did you try using throttle body cleaner? this might save you some money if you get 1 from the salvage yard. - bandit_60

5)   I use this site to buy parts for my VW all the time. They have the OEM throttle body for your Jetta as well as the others.
The other posters are correct in that Bosch supplies many of the OEM parts that Volkswagens use. They make alternators, ignition systems, engine management, etc. I wouldn't hesitate to use one. I know that Bosch makes the entire engine management system for my GTI.

Which engine do you have in your Jetta? 1.8T, 2.0, VR6 ( 12 or 24 valve?) , TDI? Make sure you are ordering the right part for the right engine! - Louis G


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The truth about Volkswagen please!?

Question 1
The truth about Volkswagen please!?...  Ok I'm considering buying a car and while I know that Japanese cars are supposed to be the most reliable and cheap to maintain their are none that I like! For my first car I'd like a compact sedan and would like to purchase a VW Jetta! I have a HUGE appreciation for German engineering! With that said how expensive is it to maintain a VW Jetta in comparison to say a Honda Civic? I've heard outlandish statements about VW being extremely expensive to maintain so once and for all I'd like to know from someone who has owned one! By the way I don't live in Europe as I hear that VW have a much better reputation over there. Thank you for your help!

Answers
1)   The truth, I have never heard a '90, 2000s VW owner say, "I will buy another Volkwagon" I have heard many of the other. - Kenny

2)   my friends has a vw jetta and has sunk more money into that thing that just buying a new car. He now has to keep it just to keep with the bills but id go for Honda. - REINO

3)   VWs are just as reliable as other cars, you just have to know which ones to avoid.

Stay away from the 1.8t motor found in many Mk4s.
Stay away from automatic transmissions built before 2005.

With that said. VWs do need a bit more love than that Japanese junk. Keep up with ALL the maintenance, don't stretch out the time between oil changes. Turn the music down every once in a while and just listen to the car. Get to know the sounds it normally makes that way you can catch small problems before they become huge.

Yes, VWs are more expensive to repair than cars of similar cost. Cars with are probably the most expensive to fix, and cars with the 2.0l are definitely the cheapest to buy, cheapest to fix, easiest to fix, and by far the MOST reliable. - Nick

4)   I've been around VW's in one form or another for a long time; I worked on air cooled type II's, worked in VW dealership service departments on and off since 1980, owned several VW's including air cooled, various water cooled models (including one 1979 VW Rabbit Diesel C, bought brand new), and even a couple of Audi's.

The Asian makes are probably better (Toyota as late being an exception) about flaws found in the product line and making corrections right away; Ford was better than the other US makes, I'd even get a call from some engineering guy about what I found in some vehicle I worked on.

The 1998 NEW Beetle and 1999.5 Golf and Jetta were good cars at first, but as time wore on the flaws began to show. Automatic transmissions had various problems, from delayed engagement to rough shifts to being completely toast; other electrical problems such as window regulator problems, a/c heater controls, vacuum leaks, check engine lights, engine building sluge deposits inside the motor etc. all helped to make this generation of VW's the legend of junk.

The Passat and Touareg were also problem prone in this period and the Touareg wasn't any good until 2007, the Passat has improved, but still isn't my idea of a reliable vehicle.

The Golf and Jetta had improved a lot starting with the 2005 generation and can be considered to be good reliable vehicles in general. But, owning a VW means having a specialist or dealership service/repair it to keep it on the road and as trouble free as possible. Labour charges are higher in owning a VW, due to lack of people who are really skilled at the make (at least here in California), and parts seem to be somewhat more expensive and european makes in general, require the usage of special fluids for the transmission, power steering, engine coolant and even in some cases, the engine oil that is used in them. Some of the problems I've seen with the vehicle have been the result of people adding the wrong fluids to the various systems, thus, causing failures in them.
Power steering system failure is fairly common if the wrong fluid is added to the system and engine failures can result from the wrong type and kind of engine oil being used. Even the engine coolant needs to be the correct type to avoid problems....

Also, the vehicles are unforgiving in missing services or doing services late; i.e., timing belts or timing chains, flushing brake fluid, etc. Failure to change the timing belt/chain when it should be done will result in very expensive repairs, often requiring the replacement of the entire motor. Over my long tenure with VW, I seen numerous cars towed in with broken timing belts/chains that ended up needing complete motor replacements, once they were partially opened for inspection. ( I remember the service advisor telling one customer several times over a two year period that the timing belt was overdue for replacement, but they said they couldn't afford it; he even gave them the name of an independent who would replace it for less, but, still they didn't do it and sure enough, one it came in on the hook with a broken belt... the head was pulled off and at least one piston was toast (cracked by the valve) and two others had impact marks....)

VW has a much better reputation in Europe because people there tend to follow the owner's manual recommendations much more closely than Americans do. Most european makes would not do well in the US because people don't follow the manufacturer's recommendation for service.

IF you're the kind of person who can follow the manufacturer's requirements for service to the letter, then a new VW might be a good choice for you. People who followed the recommendations of VW and/or the service advisors tended to have a far more reliable vehicle than those who took it to quick lube places or garages that didn't specialize in VW-Audi's.

The Asian and US makes in general tend to be far more forgiving about somewhat lax or irregular service that many people seem to do these days. I've been around cars forever and have seen the maintanance intervals length increase over time, sadly, a lot people don't follow what the manufacturer suggests for service.

If what you want is a vehicle that is cheap to maintain and reliable, but has no character, buy an Asian make (though those new Hyundai's look pretty good) as the Honda and Toyota's are about as good as it gets. Some of the new Fords and GM cars from what I've heard from others at local dealership personnel seem to also be very reliable and cheap to maintain too. The Ford Fusion seems to be an excellent car in its own right.

Hope this helps, a car nut. - a car nut

5)   I have a 2006 VW GTI, if you plan on getting any VW car with a DSG Transmission, expect to pay up to $400 for a transmission fluid change. When I damaged my spoiler brake light a couple years ago, the stealership said I had to replace the whole spoiler just to get a new spoiler brake light and it costed about $340 without it being painted. - Richard Hong

6)   Volkswagen makes good cars, what i have experienced with them its they are really good when they are new, even if you keep up with the maintenance (which is expensive), with age all plastic parts get brittle and they have way to much plastic, newer vws are replacing a lot of plastic parts in the engine with aluminum parts, also the interior of the car has brittle pieces and the paint on the buttons of the radio started to peel off with only 5000 miles on the car.

I personally like like the suspension, how the car rides (cannot compare to any japanese) and the power & efficiency(specially TDIs) - Bernie_Ros


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Question 2
I have a volkswagen jetta 2.0L and I wonder what can I do to increase My power?...  It is a 99.5 Mk4 with a 2.0L That makes 115hp. I think is to low for me lol, so I want more power,
Before buying this car I was looking for a 18.T but I found this for 1800 bucks. There is nothing wrong with it but I wonder If I can make it fast as the 1.8T?

Answers
1)   you would have tyo do a good amount to the 2.slow might as well save up and sell your car and buy a 1.8T or suck it up

but you good be a little bit faster with intake and exhaust - ....

2)   K and N Recleanable/Rechargable Air Filter Kit. - Fresh Prince of India

3)   Yeah the K&N air filter is a good start and also put in NGK iridium spark plugs. - Matt D

4)   Cheapest to expensive. K and N filter, Headers, Hi flow cat, Exhaust then a powerchip which requires the use of premium grade fuel to get the benefits. If you really want to spend money engine work flow it/balance it. Really the best bang for your buck if you want more than 50% power buy a turbo kit for around 4.5k. Since its own 99 wouldn't turbo it anyway. - DrkLce

5)   2 ways to get as much power as the 1.8t

1 turbo the 2.0 with an aftermarket kit
or
2 do the swap to 1.8t

cold air intakes, exhausts, and all the ricer stickers and wings are not going to give you more power!! - Bernie_Ros

6)   VR6 all the way homie ! - mr VR6


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Question 3
Why is my Jetta revving and I barely accelerate?...  I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8T wolfsburg edition with 200k

Lately when I step on my gas to accelerate my RPM rises but Im barely getting any power. I checked my tires and they're fine so its not a traction issue.

Its almost as if I have my clutch half pressed down when im stepping on the gas but I'm not. I recently changed my spark plugs and coils as well.

Answers
1)   I think it is called the ERG valve that controls it
in a firebird it is easy to replace - Robert C

2)   Those are the classic symptoms of a slipping clutch.

Start saving. - Nick

3)   It is probably related to the clutch!
Hopefully the hydraulic part. (Master cylinder or slave cylinder)
but it could also be the pressure plate or the clutch disc, which means having to remove the transmission ($$) - Bernie_Ros

4)   you may have an air intake vacuum leak either a hose pipe or a gasket.spray W40 liquid around the inlet manifold and vacuum pipes to deturmine the air leaks , if you have a leak whilst spraying the liquid the engine should rev higher - scooterboy


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Question 4
what would you need to put in a 1.8t passat to make it run really fast and get the whistle supra sound?...  

Answers
1)   intake(and manifold) exhaust(everything form the headers back) chip

should sound pretty badass
ooohh and one more things for the whistle your gonna need some nice blowoff valves - ....

2)   If you only want the sound, just put a blow off valve and a cold Intake for better resutls
It will be faster, not like a supra but yeah lol.... - Miguel Jauregui

3)   Well the whistle noise is the result of the Supra's turbo. The blow-off valves only make a hiss noise. So you'd need to get a turbo if you really want it. - Matt D


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Question 5
this is like punch bug no punch back?...  i now there is another one= p.t cruiser no bruiser ...punch bug no punch back what r more?

Answers
1)   pick up your teeth truck - idontgivafork

2)   Woody. When you see a car with wood paneling you shout "woody" and punch someone. They can yell "termite" to protect themselves.

"Banana" is another one. When you see a yellow car you shout "banana" and you can punch someone. What's nice about this trick is you can wait to punch them as long as you like and there's no defense.

Those are all I know, hope they help! - Perry

3)   vr sexxxx
2.slow
gt ohhh shit
mustang shitstang(for those v6 autos) - ....


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Whats your first thought if you see a girl driving a bright yellow vw beetle?

Question 1
Whats your first thought if you see a girl driving a bright yellow vw beetle?...  

Answers
1)   OOOH GIRL WHO DID YOUR HAIR - Red Andy

2)   That girl has personality! Who is that girl?! - Two Lane. 455 Rocket.

3)   Colorblind and enjoys free drinks. - Nic Famous

4)   Hot chick ! - L G

5)   jeez, that sounds like a bag of nails...is that the exhaust blowing, or is it just ten minutes away from a strip and rebuild?

or, wow, a yellow money pit... you dont see many of them... - fivetoze

6)   sex - Ethan H


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Question 2
The truth about Volkswagen please!?...  Ok I'm considering buying a car and while I know that Japanese cars are supposed to be the most reliable and cheap to maintain their are none that I like! For my first car I'd like a compact sedan and would like to purchase a VW Jetta! I have a HUGE appreciation for German engineering! With that said how expensive is it to maintain a VW Jetta in comparison to say a Honda Civic? I've heard outlandish statements about VW being extremely expensive to maintain so once and for all I'd like to know from someone who has owned one! By the way I don't live in Europe as I hear that VW have a much better reputation over there. Thank you for your help!

Answers
1)   The truth, I have never heard a '90, 2000s VW owner say, "I will buy another Volkwagon" I have heard many of the other. - Kenny

2)   my friends has a vw jetta and has sunk more money into that thing that just buying a new car. He now has to keep it just to keep with the bills but id go for Honda. - REINO

3)   VWs are just as reliable as other cars, you just have to know which ones to avoid.

Stay away from the 1.8t motor found in many Mk4s.
Stay away from automatic transmissions built before 2005.

With that said. VWs do need a bit more love than that Japanese junk. Keep up with ALL the maintenance, don't stretch out the time between oil changes. Turn the music down every once in a while and just listen to the car. Get to know the sounds it normally makes that way you can catch small problems before they become huge.

Yes, VWs are more expensive to repair than cars of similar cost. Cars with are probably the most expensive to fix, and cars with the 2.0l are definitely the cheapest to buy, cheapest to fix, easiest to fix, and by far the MOST reliable. - Nick

4)   I've been around VW's in one form or another for a long time; I worked on air cooled type II's, worked in VW dealership service departments on and off since 1980, owned several VW's including air cooled, various water cooled models (including one 1979 VW Rabbit Diesel C, bought brand new), and even a couple of Audi's.

The Asian makes are probably better (Toyota as late being an exception) about flaws found in the product line and making corrections right away; Ford was better than the other US makes, I'd even get a call from some engineering guy about what I found in some vehicle I worked on.

The 1998 NEW Beetle and 1999.5 Golf and Jetta were good cars at first, but as time wore on the flaws began to show. Automatic transmissions had various problems, from delayed engagement to rough shifts to being completely toast; other electrical problems such as window regulator problems, a/c heater controls, vacuum leaks, check engine lights, engine building sluge deposits inside the motor etc. all helped to make this generation of VW's the legend of junk.

The Passat and Touareg were also problem prone in this period and the Touareg wasn't any good until 2007, the Passat has improved, but still isn't my idea of a reliable vehicle.

The Golf and Jetta had improved a lot starting with the 2005 generation and can be considered to be good reliable vehicles in general. But, owning a VW means having a specialist or dealership service/repair it to keep it on the road and as trouble free as possible. Labour charges are higher in owning a VW, due to lack of people who are really skilled at the make (at least here in California), and parts seem to be somewhat more expensive and european makes in general, require the usage of special fluids for the transmission, power steering, engine coolant and even in some cases, the engine oil that is used in them. Some of the problems I've seen with the vehicle have been the result of people adding the wrong fluids to the various systems, thus, causing failures in them.
Power steering system failure is fairly common if the wrong fluid is added to the system and engine failures can result from the wrong type and kind of engine oil being used. Even the engine coolant needs to be the correct type to avoid problems....

Also, the vehicles are unforgiving in missing services or doing services late; i.e., timing belts or timing chains, flushing brake fluid, etc. Failure to change the timing belt/chain when it should be done will result in very expensive repairs, often requiring the replacement of the entire motor. Over my long tenure with VW, I seen numerous cars towed in with broken timing belts/chains that ended up needing complete motor replacements, once they were partially opened for inspection. ( I remember the service advisor telling one customer several times over a two year period that the timing belt was overdue for replacement, but they said they couldn't afford it; he even gave them the name of an independent who would replace it for less, but, still they didn't do it and sure enough, one it came in on the hook with a broken belt... the head was pulled off and at least one piston was toast (cracked by the valve) and two others had impact marks....)

VW has a much better reputation in Europe because people there tend to follow the owner's manual recommendations much more closely than Americans do. Most european makes would not do well in the US because people don't follow the manufacturer's recommendation for service.

IF you're the kind of person who can follow the manufacturer's requirements for service to the letter, then a new VW might be a good choice for you. People who followed the recommendations of VW and/or the service advisors tended to have a far more reliable vehicle than those who took it to quick lube places or garages that didn't specialize in VW-Audi's.

The Asian and US makes in general tend to be far more forgiving about somewhat lax or irregular service that many people seem to do these days. I've been around cars forever and have seen the maintanance intervals length increase over time, sadly, a lot people don't follow what the manufacturer suggests for service.

If what you want is a vehicle that is cheap to maintain and reliable, but has no character, buy an Asian make (though those new Hyundai's look pretty good) as the Honda and Toyota's are about as good as it gets. Some of the new Fords and GM cars from what I've heard from others at local dealership personnel seem to also be very reliable and cheap to maintain too. The Ford Fusion seems to be an excellent car in its own right.

Hope this helps, a car nut. - a car nut

5)   I have a 2006 VW GTI, if you plan on getting any VW car with a DSG Transmission, expect to pay up to $400 for a transmission fluid change. When I damaged my spoiler brake light a couple years ago, the stealership said I had to replace the whole spoiler just to get a new spoiler brake light and it costed about $340 without it being painted. - Richard Hong


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Question 3
is vw jetta a sports car?...  

Answers
1)   No, but when they come out with the 200 HP version, it's "sporty". - Artemisc

2)   Not really, its more of a passenger car. If you want something sporty from VW the Golf Gti is better in that regards. The jetta does have higher power versions. The jetta is a stretched platform of the golf. - DrkLce

3)   sports car
— n
a production car designed for speed, high acceleration, and manoeuvrability, having a low body and usually adequate seating for only two persons

So according to the technical definition, no. With enough work can a VW Jetta hang with "sports cars" around the track, at the drag strip, etc? Absolutely. - gti_4cefed4

4)   No. They are simply passenger cars that are built for autobahn usage. (Too bad the US version isn't)

With a suspension upgrade, cams, and a cam specific chip Jettas can become quite fun track cars.

Whoever said the Jetta is built on a streched Golf frame, you are wrong. They share chassis'. The only reason VW built the Jetta is because people loved the Golf but wanted a trunk, so VW grafted a trunk on the back of a Golf.

Your street driven Jetta will never be "fast" but it can be "quick." - Nick


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Question 4
Is 140,000 miles a lot for a Volkswagen?...  I'm looking into purchasing a 1998 VW Jetta GL with about 140,000 miles on it. It seems to be in good condition otherwise, and I was just wondering if it's a reliable car, or if I should be worried about the high mileage. Any info would be great, thanks!

Answers
1)   Volkswagens are very tough, and 140k miles for a modern car is not an awful lot. In fact if the car has travelled those miles on the motorways, it will be a better bet than a car that has only been on 'urban' runs such as the school runs.

The mileage would be even better if the car is a TDI turbo diesel, you could probably get about 300k out of one of them!

Also consider Skoda and Seat. These are re-badged Volkswagen products, and since Skoda and Seat don't quite have the same badge kudos as a Volkswagen wearing a VW badge, they fetch less on the marketplace, so you could end up buying the same car (underneath) with the same mechanicals but a different badge for less! - V8VANTAGE

2)   It is an extremely well engineered car, but the condition depends much more on the driving habits and maintenance of the last owner than the miles.
Look for abuse, such as uneven or rough tire wear, worn petals and controls, oil leaks, dirty engine compartment from lack of maintenance, low fluids, etc.
Even better is to have it checked out at a shop.
There are lots of other variances as well, such as cars with manual transmissions wear about a forth less in the same amount of miles.
And a lead foot driver can wear a car over twice as fast as a conscientious driver.

At 140,000, it could be almost halfway to its second timing belt, or it could be long past due.
The front brakes are likely to be thin and cost about $150 (never turn rotors).
The CV joints could probably use repacking, for about $150.
Things like plugs, oil, filters, etc., should be done every year regardless of miles. - Motorhead

3)   You won't have any trouble with the 2.0l, especially with only 140k on it.

Check the reverse gear. Listen for clicking, if it's clicking the gear has had at least one tooth chipped off and is now running on borrowed time. Also, does it stay in gear when you reverse (get going until you've passed 2k rpm if that doesn't pop it out you're good)

Check the wheel wells, strut and shock towers, behind the license plate tub, the floor, the spare tire well, and behind the fuel door for rust.

The timing belt should have been done twice by now. Make sure they have paperwork.

There's a pretty good chance the Airbag light is on, chances are it's a broken clock spring in the steering wheel. Easy, cheap fix.

If the Check Engine light is on, have the codes pulled. Mk3 VWs are known for the CEL being on frequently and it's usually nothing to worry about.

If the car has power windows. Test each one individually, note how fast they go up and down. Do they seem to "get caught" on something. The power window regulators are terribly designed and when they go, if the owner is an idiot they may have burned out the motor ($350 to replace) so look sharp. - Nick


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Question 5
Engine Oil Cream on oil cap, false alarm maybe?...  engine Oil cap has cream on it , now I know what it means, water gets in the system ,but bear with me , like 3 days ago I got the garage to have a look at the car, they said that they had to change a part , I can't remember what it was , they did it anyways, they also cleaned the engine changed filters etc , the owner told me that head gasket might be gone ,but its unlikely, he told me if the anti-freeze/water starts dissapearing , then to come back to him , but the problem is , the foam is showing up , but There is no change in anti-freeze or oil ,their both pure, all nice and clean , anti freeze is lovely cyan see through and oil is nice gold colour, now is there any chance that there is recidue of the cleanser or sumtin ,cause he told me to change the oil after 1000mi. any ideas ?

Answers
1)   As long as the anti-freeze isn't disappearing I can guarantee it is not getting into the oil. This time of year we see a lot of concerns about condensation in the crankcase, but it is very normal. - Michael

2)   I agree with Michael; many vehicles can form this if driven in cold weather and for short distances.
Some of the older VW's would do this even if the weather was warm if they were driven in town driving for short runs, then shut off. The motor never got hot enough to burn off the moisture that was formed in the motor... You can have a pressure check and also a block check done on the motor to be absolutely sure that you don't have a blown headgasket, but from what you have written, I consider it highly unlikely.

A block check and cooling system pressure check done together will either tell you that you have some sort of leakage into the cooling system or not. In some cases, a sniff test with an exhaust infrared co machine will also indicate a exhaust leakage into the cooling system (blown head gasket or crack in either the block and/or head assembly.

Hope this helps, a car nut. - a car nut

3)   Emulsification, the cream you describe is a fairly natural consequence of the engine getting hot then going cold etc . A car engine creates an enormous amount of condensation within and mixed with the oil and oil vapour it will produce the cream sludge. However, why did the previous owner say anything about the head gasket if he did not have or had been told there may be a problem. You need to get a qualified opinion by an expert who actually looks at the car, it could save you an awful lot of money in the long run. - L G


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Will my TDI Jetta be alright? PLEASE HELP!!!?

Question 1
Will my TDI Jetta be alright? PLEASE HELP!!!?...  Ok, so I drive an 04 TDI Jetta.. Diesel..
well... about three days ago I was over at my friends grandparents and her grandpa
put old diesel fuel that had been sitting in his garage in my tank. It was about a gallon
and a half.. so, we start driving away, my car just started shaking and when I excelled
it wouldn't and would break down.
I went to auto zone and got this stuff to put in my gas tank along with new fuel.
It's still not excelling as it should but has only broken down one more time since the other
night..
I was wondering if anyone else had any other similiar experiences or could help me out?

The car has never broken down EVER! So it had to be the fuel!
I heard that fuel that sits in gas cans can get water in it, so I'm thinking that's what happened?
I've been told to keep adding diesel fuel to my tank and that my car will be
fine once the old gas is out of its system..
How much would the Fuel Filter be??

Answers
1)   First off, it's accelerate, not excell! Second, it is definately possible water got into the old fuel your grandpa dumped into your car. Try changing the fuel filter. I had a diesel truck at work with the same problem after filling up with water contaminated fuel that I found out about later. After replacing the filter, the truck ran and accelerated fine. - The-Razors-Edge

2)   the first thing i would do is change the fuel filter and keep adding new fuel - rembrants4u

3)   if the diesel in the cans was bought in the summer it will not work well in the current winter temperatures as it turns to jelly you can buy antifreeze for diesel fuel that makes it winter ready , the fuel companies usually switch to winter diesel in november /december , but if the cans were dirty or the diesel was contaminated it would be best to drain the tank and change the fuel filter or just fill it to the brim with winter diesel - Harley Drive

4)   Ya water is gonna be your biggest concern. Old fuel might not be good, but that Jetta will compensate, it can't be that bad. If you DO have water in there, they'll have to remove the tank to correct it. You never got a service engine light? - jldude

5)   There is a contaminant in the fuel without doubt. To cure it you really need to run the fuel low and then drain the fuel tank. This is not as bad as it sounds as the fuel lines underneath "snap" together and with the aid of a couple of small screwdrivers you can easily part the hose. You need to establish which hose goes "to" the engine as there is also a "return" pipe. Once drained you can then refill with clean diesel. I would hold off changing the filter for a few hundred miles. After that replace the filter and problems will be over. A fuel filter is a service item and is probably about $30 in US about £16 in UK. It is a straight forward job to change as the three connections are held by spring type clips and push in and push on pipes.In the interim there should be a white plastic "wheel" at the bottom of you fuel filter, this is actually a valve, if you open it slowly you will be able to let out an amount of fuel which will probably contain the contaminant. Re tighten the valve after. - L G


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Question 2
what type of brake fluid does volkswagen passat 2006 model use?...  lost my owner manual and just wonder what type of brake fluid does the 2006 volkswagen passat use. thanks.

Answers
1)   DOT 3 or 4 ( either will do) and either OEM VW, Valvoline Synthetic or Castrol LMA - nywholesale

2)   DOT 4. The previous writer discussed Castrol LMA, its an excellent choice and has a minimum wet boiling point of 311 degrees F, far exceeding the standard DOT 3 of 284 F. I personally, use the Castrol LMA in my own cars. - a car nut

3)   you can't mix synthetic DOT 5 brake fluid with DOT 3 or 4 fluid go to your local VW dealer give them your vin number and they will sell you the right fluid - Harley Drive


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Question 3
what are basic problems with 2000 vw beetles?...  im thinking about getting one but i want to know what im getting into first
Thank you! That totally helped me!

Answers
1)   This is the website I use when trying to find out problems with certain vehicles.

www.carcomplaints.com

There you will find a drop down list of common issues for certain models and years, as well as links to the VW website and forums for VW owners dealing with these issues as well as possible recalls. - ♫♪2 kids+1 wife=magical♪♫

2)   My '07 Jetta hasn't had a problem one in 2 years of hard driving. Other than dead battery and TPMS sensors that don't like the cold. Donno bout a 2000, but if it has the 2.5 or diesel engine, you're good. - jldude

3)   Engine compartments are a little cramped, so it helps to have good mechanics. But dealers are expensive, so look for an independent. There are lots of them. Battery is hard to get to, and tall people in the back seat hit their heads on turns.
Otherwise great cars. - Motorhead


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Question 4
how much does it cost if a 2001 VW beetle key is lost and no key code is availible?...  I lost the VW key to my beetle. I have no key code how much will VW charge me?

Answers
1)   About $200 - doane_nut

2)   I always advise clients to have at least three keys to their vehicle: a main key that has a remote; a valet key that can only open the door and start the vehicle (does not unlock the glove box or boot (trunk) or some models the rear seat back release lock) and give this key to the valet at the parking lot; and a back up key (sub master) which will unlock or lock all the doors/boot/glove box/rear seat back release but has no keyless entry remote.

Because you have no key code, an independent locksmith cannot cut you a key; however, your local VW agency can obtain the key code for you via the VW dealership computer information system in a few minutes. Some agents may charge for this service, others won't, so call around. Even with the code, in my limited experience, most locksmiths won't be able to help you as they may or may not carry the proper blanks to cut your key from code and even if they do have the correct blanks, they still need to be programmed to the vehicle computer before they can start the vehicle. A good locksmith will have the computer key cutter that can cut the key from code and also have the expensive universal key programmer that will allow the keys to be programmed to the vehicle. This won't be cheap; keys run anywhere from $25 USD to $200 USD, depending upon type and place of purchase. The least expensive type is the valet or the sub master type, neither of which includes the keyless entry remote.

Although you can purchase blanks on the web, I advise against it. You might save a few dollars, but you'll have to run around trying to find a locksmith who will cut the key for you. Most locksmiths that I deal with will not cut a blank that they did not supply and even if they will cut a blank that you bring to them, they won't warrant the cut or the operation of the key that they didn't directly sell you.
Prices vary a lot for labour; indepedent locksmiths in my area of California charge between $85 to $150 per hour and the normal charges to programme keys seems to run about $100 USD or so. All the key(s) should be programmed at the same time, keys that aren't programmed at the same time won't start the car, though they can still open door and unlock the ignition.

For most people, ordering the key(s) from the local VW agency is the best thing to do; in most cases, the dealership can order the key(s) on a priority overnight order (if the parts warehouse does daily orders; where I'm at if the order is in by 2pm, normally, we'll get the item by the next normal business day M-F) without any additional charges. If you're ordering after the daily order cut off time or you only have weekly orders, then you option is to place the order as a OVERNIGHT Priorty order that cannot be cancelled. Additional charges will apply based upon wholesale dealership cost and the number of line items on the special order. Your local dealership can advise on this.

Once you obtain the pre-cut keys (cut to the original lock set that was installed by VIN), then they still need to be programmed to you car. The charge varies a lot, so call around before having the keys cut and the car towed over to the dealership (or independent VW specialist), but around my area the charge run from .5 to 1.5 hours of labour x the posted hourly rate, with an average cost of 1.0 hours of labour. Labour rates run from about $95 USD or so for the independent shops, to upwards of $175 per hour at the dealerships. Our rate is $160 per hour of labour.

In my area, the cost of the valet &/or sub master key is about $50 USD each; the keyless entry key runs about $140 USD or so. Figuring between labour and the recommended three key set up that wrote about earlier, you can figure about $340 USD, (at an independent NON VW dealership-- upwards towards $400 USD at a dealership) in plus tax here in my area of CALIFORNIA.
Note: some independent VW shops have the ability to cut keys and programme them for you, so once again, call around before you start having your car towed.

Hope this helps, a car nut. - a car nut

3)   If you take the door lock to a locksmith, he can make a key for it for about $30.
It will not be programmed to activate the proximity sensor, so you will have to just the starter solenoid in order to get it started.
But they the dealer can deactivate the sensor for about $25, if you find an honest dealship. - Motorhead


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Question 5
Question about restoring a 1970 Karmann Ghia?...  So me and a buddy are restoring this Ghia we bought. We're curious about how we could paint it ourselves and if anyone could give us advice about how to do that.
Also, would a 64 Ghia hub caps fit on a 70 Ghia, and what models would have the same gas tank as a Ghia?

Answers
1)   Break the car down in to pieces your choice

1. Sand down until metal is bare work down on sandpaper grit
2. Wipe down with acetone to clean and prep
3. bondo to fill out dents - sand down
4. Spay with primer spray at even distance all around car move your arm like a robot
5. Sand down primer to be smooth
6. Painting is up to you if your bad maybe just take it to macco - Ryan

2)   summit racing and jegs, sell books on how to do body work and paint,could check this out and no the five bolt 64 rims are different than the 4 bolt 70 rims have to use rims from 68 on for hub caps to fit the earlier bugs have different size centers than the newer 70 rims,and could check out www.thesamba.com for parts. - KAM

3)   If you have not painted before, don't experiment on a good car.
The first one is bound to have mistakes.
For example, people like dark colors like black, and that is much too hard of a color because it show all the flaws in reflection.
Tan or light yellow are the easiest colors.
Use acrylic enamel instead of lacquer, because it will not drip as much.
But it takes a week to really dry.
Don't use accelerators to make it dry faster, because they cause checkering years later.
The other tips on prep work were good.
When it comes to final step of actually painting, first you do a quick light tack coat.
You just mist it on, in order to make it sticky, so that more paint will have something to adhere to.
Then you do back and put on a heavy coat.
You want it as thick as you can without dripping, so that there is no orange peel from the individual paint droplets.
If you are further away, it will drip less, but have more orange peel as well.
If you screw up and it drips, have something lintless to wipe it off quickly with.
If nothing else, your hand will work.
Don't let it drip, since it will take a week to dry before drips could be rubber out with abrasive compound.
There are 2 popular painting motions.
One is back and forth stripes.
If you use this, release the trigger before you start to slow down and reverse direction, or else you will have over spray and drips.
The other motion is circular, but this is difficult because it is harder to maintain constant distance.
But it does not leave a stripped appearance.

You should do a lot of practice first. Do some practice objects, like maybe the engine shrouds or something. Purposely put on too much and see it drip, or to little and see orange peel.

I don't believe 64 hubcaps will work on a 70 without modification. I believe in 64 the wheel rims had large spring clips riveted on, that catch the rim of the hubcap. In 70, I believe the wheel rim had bulges that the hubcap rim snapped over. So I believe the 64 hubcaps will be too loose for the 70 rims, unless you add spring clips to them.

However, I think the gas tanks are the same with the bug and Ghia. That is because the Ghia used the bug front suspension and pan. Type II and type III are different. But leaks can easily be brazed, and rusty insides easily cleaned and coated. They prefer you to steam clean tanks out first, to remove any danger of explosion. They will use a smell test. - Motorhead


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i have a brand new WV Golf GTI, but at the moment its not good in snow! and buttons to make it good in it.?

Question 1
i have a brand new WV Golf GTI, but at the moment its not good in snow! and buttons to make it good in it.?...  i have a brand new WV Golf GTI, but at the moment its not good in snow! and buttons to make it good in it.

any buttons or anything in the snow!! please help snowing hRD IN ENGLAND AT THE MOMENT!

Answers
1)   The car is fine in the snow, it's the driver that needs to learn. - One Anti

2)   You can invest in a pair of snow socks. These cost about £50 and are worth it if you must travel in snow. Apart from four wheel drive (4motion) VWs all will struggle in the snow. This amount of snow in the UK is very unusual and we have to accept there are no magic bullets, or buttons in your case. - Bazza

3)   You need a 4x4 to avoid struggling. NO car apart from 4x4's can struggle! Not the car, its the snow! - Benjystick

4)   Get a set of winter tyres. 16" steel rims with 205/55/16 tyres will do. The car isn't the problem, it's your lack of winter preparation. - vavavoom

5)   Ok

You need to get snow socks or winter tyres. Winter tyres have a snowflake symbol or an m+s marking on the sidewall. The tread is very blocky and the individual tread blocks have thin cuts in them.

When driving in snow/ice with or without any of the above you need to use very little accelerator and when pulling away from stationary use 2nd gear not first.
when coming to a stop use the engine to slow the car not your brakes. So plan ahead and lift off the accelerator gently when you wish to come to a stop only using the brakes near the end. - Sean R

6)   They are useless in snow, but so are many others. You cannot have the combination of ultra wide low profile high performance tyre and expect it to perform in the snow. Either buy a pair of steel rims and put snow tyres on the front or try to keep off the back roads. I have a MK4 Estate that will go anywhere with that combination. I recently overtook a Freelander that was floundering on a hill in them snow, it was a defining moment in my life ( well I enjoyed it seeing his face) ! - L G

7)   These golf struggle for grip in snow or ice due to the large amount of torque the engine produces. If you want to use the car in these conditions fit 4 good winter tyres Vw recommend the Hankook Ice bear. I have fitted these tyres to my own vw and to lots of customers to which they all were impressed with the amount of grip these tyres have in the snow they very rarely slip even on steep snow covered roads. - turboextreme


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Question 2
Why is my 2005 Jetta TDI turning over but not firing?...  This happened a couple days ago while I was driving to a store.
Drove fine, worked perfect, then all of a sudden my car just died. No warning, jerking, noises, grumbling, nothing. Felt almost as if I just turned it off with the key.
Tried to restart, but all that would happen is the engine would turn over from the starter, but it wont fire. My uncle got it fired once, but then auto shut off happened from low oil pressure. Fixed that, and now the oil pressure isn't a problem.
I ran on E for about 20 miles from my uncles house then filled up to half a tank (the day before the car died). I am thinking it might be a clogged filter, since it is a diesel.
However, is there any more ideas beyond just the filter?
I can guarantee I did not put gas instead of diesel, I have never made that mistake. Besides, the Chevron that I went to has separate pumps for diesel and gas, so it isn't easy to mix them up.

Also, I had no choice but to run it on E. I just had the knuckle and bearing fixed, and had to drive it home late at night from one city to the next, about 20 miles. It apparently just hit E when I dropped it off a couple days before, so it wasn't like it ran on E for a long time, but I'm sure long enough to screw something up.

I bought a new fuel filter, going to try that today. As well as a couple other of those things. I'll report back on my findings.

Answers
1)   There's water floating on the fuel, and you got some of that in the fuel system upstream from the tank, maybe corroded injectors or temporarily put deposits on glow plugs. Shouldn't run anything on empty for too long. - Van Bo

2)   Clogged filter is the mostly likely answer. other possibility albeit unlikely, is that your fuel rail is no good, but not totally out of the question. - drevrandfan

3)   Its more than likely air in your injectors.
open the nut on the end of each injector,
one at a time then turn the engine to bleed the system.

Should sort your problem - Pj Griffin

4)   Check the fuel cut off solenoid(which is on the fuel injection pump) I believe it is a black wire that is nutted down on the top of the pump. That wire comes from the ignition switch. With you in the car and uncle listening under the hood turn the key until the dash lights come on- then turn it off. And do it again. You do not want to engage the starter so you are not turning the key "that far".
Uncle should hear a faint click coming from where the black(I believe that is the color) wire connects to the fuel injecton pump roughly about the center of the engine or when facing engine compartment on the right hand side of the pump.
The only way to stop a diesel engine is to cut off the fuel supply. If this thing does not click, either it is at fault, or the wiring at fault or a problem with the key switch.
Even though it is black, it is a power wire; so if uncle is mechanically minded he could run a wire directly from the battery to this solenoid screw nut that is insulated from the rest of the grounded pump and then while he is touching the wire there on the solenoid, you crank over the engine. If it starts, it works. If uncle takes his contact wire away and the engine shuts off, then it is an electrical problem to the solenoid.
In my case it was a worn out ignition switch(but my car was 25 years older than yours and it is the "first ignition switch" I have ever had to replace.
If in doubt, have it towed to the dealership shop and let them fix you up. - Doing the Math

5)   Strange how the car died after the fuel refill. My guess is you put gasoline in the car instead of diesel fuel. This is occurring all the time in UK . You should be able to smell it if you open the fuel filler and get close.It will need draining off and refilling with the correct fuel. - L G

6)   Lesson learned... never run a diesel down to empty. Never never do it. - Louis G


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Question 3
Are jettas reliable ? ?...  I want to buy a used jetta years 2000 - 2003 but are volkswagon jetta reliable still with over 100,000 miles on it ? Or will it have problems and more sooner then later be just another car with issues ?

Answers
1)   My sister has a Jetta and Yes, they have a lot of problems right now hers is kind of broken. So now im warning you DON'T buy it, it will just waist your money.... - Jacqueline Salazar

2)   They are pretty tough vehicles, But they are like any other car is they are abused, If youre gonna buy a used jetta just get it inspected from a good mechanic, Also see if could get a history of preventive maintaince done like oil changes fuel filter and air filter replacements. Or any other work that has been done. Just like any used car things could be issues.

Good Luck. - e40

3)   No car is perfect or made to last for ever. I'd trust a car more with 100k on the odometer if I could see the maintenance records (and I'm not talking about a carfax). I mean the actual records and receipts for the maintenance. Has the timing belt along with water pump and tensioner been changed on it at 60k like it was supposed to be? If not, I wouldn't buy it. I had an '04 Jetta (which I believe is actually a generation up from what you are looking at). It was a very dependable car and ran extremely well. - Paulster2

4)   YES, jetta's are realiable because one they have DIESEL engine and with that alone the engine can run one million miles alone if kept well maintence - NX

5)   Stay away from the 1.8t motor if you insist on getting a Jetta in that range of years.

Get a Jetta with the 2.0l, the motor is damn near bulletproof and very easy to work on.

I parted out my last Jetta after the transmission gave up at 192k. I was my first car, I learned to drive a manual in it and I put 30k miles on it in the 2 years I had it. It had a 2.0 and even at 192k I was still getting 34-36mpg. It was a 1996 though. - Nick

6)   I have a 96 Jetta and other than a few things, it is pretty reliable. My rear view mirror is down right now and I need new brakes but it goes pretty fast and doesnt have any strange sounds. They are pretty good and a bit expensive to fix when you have problems. - Blue Eyes


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Question 4
do i want a volkswagen golf?...  I'm 20 years old and looking for a smaller car thats good on gas, and goes fast I think I want to get a volkswagen, but I keep hearing they break down a lot and are expensive to fix. I kind of like the VW golfs, although not many people will agree. How are VW golfs and if I should get one what type and year?

Answers
1)   American golfs are all crap. European VW's are miles miles better. The 1.6 petrol mk4 golf gets pretty good mileage for a petrol, around 40 combines. - i eat monkeys

2)   Main thing to find out is if you can afford toinsure it.
In Europe golfs don't get the best reliability dative but I have one and it just keeps going. Not maintenance free but it does not let me down Now 140000 and 10 years old. The PD "GT"diesels give outstanding economy and good performance. - Tim S

3)   The Golf is the hatchback version of the popular US Jetta. Everything is the same apart from the lights and the rear of the body. With the Golf in particular you should be able to find a German built car in the States and that means reliability. I hear all the scare stories about reliability league tables. The Golf is made in millions rather than a few hundred thousand that the super reliable Lexus and Honda number. It follows therefore that the Golf will have at least 10 times the number of problems that a car has if only a 100,000 are made. The expression, lies, damned lies and statistics comes very much into play ! - L G

4)   Volkswagens are fairly good for reliability, certainly nowhere near the worst. I would choose a Golf over a French made car (Citroen, Peugeot, Renault) any day. - RichB

5)   I am looking at the volkswagen golf tdi.. and though its diesel, it gets around 30 mph and 40 mph on the highway. If you drive it properly, you could even get 50 mph :)

I sat in one the other day at the vw dealership and it was quite nice inside. Almost luxury. The tdi had a nice touchscreen interface with ipod connection as well, standard! - Sam Smith


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Question 5
What does MK6 mean on a Volkswagen golf? R32?...  I see volkswagen golfs and and they are called mk6's? What does that mean? What is the r32? Are they like super golfs? Can i buy on from volkswagen?

Answers
1)   The R32 is a AWD and high output version of the GTi Golf. Think Gti with AWD and more power. yes you can buy it directly from VW it is 20k more than a Gti in Oz. Mk6 just means version 6 of the golf the mk1 was a 1980-81 golf Gti and so on through the years. - DrkLce

2)   MK stands for mark. mark 6. meaning, the 6th kind of r32 vw made. like a ford escort MK2. - MCXD

3)   All new Golfs are MK 6 regardless of engine size. The next update model will be ......MK 7 !! - L G

4)   Mk6 just means mark 6, i.e. sixth generation of Golf. The R32 (which wasn't made in the Mk6 but replaced with the Golf R) is a 3.2L 6 cylinder all wheel drive (4Motion) Golf. It was the most powerful production Golf sitting above the GTI. As I stated however, the R32 was dropped when the Mk6 came out and was replaced with the Golf R. This featured a 2.0L turbo with 265ps that replaced the 3.2VR6. It retained the 4Motion all wheel drive however.

VW recently announced the Golf R would be sold in the US for a limited time and in limited numbers. - vavavoom


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Why is my 2005 Jetta TDI turning over but not firing?

Question 1
Why is my 2005 Jetta TDI turning over but not firing?...  This happened a couple days ago while I was driving to a store.
Drove fine, worked perfect, then all of a sudden my car just died. No warning, jerking, noises, grumbling, nothing. Felt almost as if I just turned it off with the key.
Tried to restart, but all that would happen is the engine would turn over from the starter, but it wont fire. My uncle got it fired once, but then auto shut off happened from low oil pressure. Fixed that, and now the oil pressure isn't a problem.
I ran on E for about 20 miles from my uncles house then filled up to half a tank (the day before the car died). I am thinking it might be a clogged filter, since it is a diesel.
However, is there any more ideas beyond just the filter?
I can guarantee I did not put gas instead of diesel, I have never made that mistake. Besides, the Chevron that I went to has separate pumps for diesel and gas, so it isn't easy to mix them up.

Also, I had no choice but to run it on E. I just had the knuckle and bearing fixed, and had to drive it home late at night from one city to the next, about 20 miles. It apparently just hit E when I dropped it off a couple days before, so it wasn't like it ran on E for a long time, but I'm sure long enough to screw something up.

I bought a new fuel filter, going to try that today. As well as a couple other of those things. I'll report back on my findings.

Answers
1)   There's water floating on the fuel, and you got some of that in the fuel system upstream from the tank, maybe corroded injectors or temporarily put deposits on glow plugs. Shouldn't run anything on empty for too long. - Van Bo

2)   Clogged filter is the mostly likely answer. other possibility albeit unlikely, is that your fuel rail is no good, but not totally out of the question. - drevrandfan

3)   Its more than likely air in your injectors.
open the nut on the end of each injector,
one at a time then turn the engine to bleed the system.

Should sort your problem - Pj Griffin

4)   Check the fuel cut off solenoid(which is on the fuel injection pump) I believe it is a black wire that is nutted down on the top of the pump. That wire comes from the ignition switch. With you in the car and uncle listening under the hood turn the key until the dash lights come on- then turn it off. And do it again. You do not want to engage the starter so you are not turning the key "that far".
Uncle should hear a faint click coming from where the black(I believe that is the color) wire connects to the fuel injecton pump roughly about the center of the engine or when facing engine compartment on the right hand side of the pump.
The only way to stop a diesel engine is to cut off the fuel supply. If this thing does not click, either it is at fault, or the wiring at fault or a problem with the key switch.
Even though it is black, it is a power wire; so if uncle is mechanically minded he could run a wire directly from the battery to this solenoid screw nut that is insulated from the rest of the grounded pump and then while he is touching the wire there on the solenoid, you crank over the engine. If it starts, it works. If uncle takes his contact wire away and the engine shuts off, then it is an electrical problem to the solenoid.
In my case it was a worn out ignition switch(but my car was 25 years older than yours and it is the "first ignition switch" I have ever had to replace.
If in doubt, have it towed to the dealership shop and let them fix you up. - Doing the Math

5)   Strange how the car died after the fuel refill. My guess is you put gasoline in the car instead of diesel fuel. This is occurring all the time in UK . You should be able to smell it if you open the fuel filler and get close.It will need draining off and refilling with the correct fuel. - L G

6)   Lesson learned... never run a diesel down to empty. Never never do it. - Louis G


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Question 2
Are jettas reliable ? ?...  I want to buy a used jetta years 2000 - 2003 but are volkswagon jetta reliable still with over 100,000 miles on it ? Or will it have problems and more sooner then later be just another car with issues ?

Answers
1)   My sister has a Jetta and Yes, they have a lot of problems right now hers is kind of broken. So now im warning you DON'T buy it, it will just waist your money.... - Jacqueline Salazar

2)   They are pretty tough vehicles, But they are like any other car is they are abused, If youre gonna buy a used jetta just get it inspected from a good mechanic, Also see if could get a history of preventive maintaince done like oil changes fuel filter and air filter replacements. Or any other work that has been done. Just like any used car things could be issues.

Good Luck. - e40

3)   No car is perfect or made to last for ever. I'd trust a car more with 100k on the odometer if I could see the maintenance records (and I'm not talking about a carfax). I mean the actual records and receipts for the maintenance. Has the timing belt along with water pump and tensioner been changed on it at 60k like it was supposed to be? If not, I wouldn't buy it. I had an '04 Jetta (which I believe is actually a generation up from what you are looking at). It was a very dependable car and ran extremely well. - Paulster2

4)   YES, jetta's are realiable because one they have DIESEL engine and with that alone the engine can run one million miles alone if kept well maintence - NX

5)   Stay away from the 1.8t motor if you insist on getting a Jetta in that range of years.

Get a Jetta with the 2.0l, the motor is damn near bulletproof and very easy to work on.

I parted out my last Jetta after the transmission gave up at 192k. I was my first car, I learned to drive a manual in it and I put 30k miles on it in the 2 years I had it. It had a 2.0 and even at 192k I was still getting 34-36mpg. It was a 1996 though. - Nick

6)   I have a 96 Jetta and other than a few things, it is pretty reliable. My rear view mirror is down right now and I need new brakes but it goes pretty fast and doesnt have any strange sounds. They are pretty good and a bit expensive to fix when you have problems. - Blue Eyes


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Question 3
Jetta 1.8t vs Audi 1.8t?...  I wanna know which is a better buy, [more reliable, faster, better mpg...ect]

Answers
1)   Jetta - Mr Natural

2)   they are virtually identical the audi usually has a better level of trim - Harley Drive

3)   id choose the jetta unless you want to "ACT" like you have money and end up paying a lot more for an identical car that only has different emblems on it seriously they are almost the same - ....

4)   The engine is the same. Straight line performance will be very close to the same. Audi will use better suspension and interior components. - Louis G

5)   You will get slightly better mpg and acceleration from the jetta, the reliability will be about the same. But the transmission on the manuals lasts a lot longer than the automatics. The audi does have nicer components on the inside, althoug the jettas did come with bose speakers, and fairly good suspension. Mine still rides smooth with 110k miles on it, I'm happy with it.

Last time I looked at an A4 1.8t I picked the jetta over it because the audi had cheap leather...or pleather in it that was falling apart. - Wookie


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Question 4
do i want a volkswagen golf?...  I'm 20 years old and looking for a smaller car thats good on gas, and goes fast I think I want to get a volkswagen, but I keep hearing they break down a lot and are expensive to fix. I kind of like the VW golfs, although not many people will agree. How are VW golfs and if I should get one what type and year?

Answers
1)   American golfs are all crap. European VW's are miles miles better. The 1.6 petrol mk4 golf gets pretty good mileage for a petrol, around 40 combines. - i eat monkeys

2)   Main thing to find out is if you can afford toinsure it.
In Europe golfs don't get the best reliability dative but I have one and it just keeps going. Not maintenance free but it does not let me down Now 140000 and 10 years old. The PD "GT"diesels give outstanding economy and good performance. - Tim S

3)   The Golf is the hatchback version of the popular US Jetta. Everything is the same apart from the lights and the rear of the body. With the Golf in particular you should be able to find a German built car in the States and that means reliability. I hear all the scare stories about reliability league tables. The Golf is made in millions rather than a few hundred thousand that the super reliable Lexus and Honda number. It follows therefore that the Golf will have at least 10 times the number of problems that a car has if only a 100,000 are made. The expression, lies, damned lies and statistics comes very much into play ! - L G

4)   Volkswagens are fairly good for reliability, certainly nowhere near the worst. I would choose a Golf over a French made car (Citroen, Peugeot, Renault) any day. - RichB

5)   I am looking at the volkswagen golf tdi.. and though its diesel, it gets around 30 mph and 40 mph on the highway. If you drive it properly, you could even get 50 mph :)

I sat in one the other day at the vw dealership and it was quite nice inside. Almost luxury. The tdi had a nice touchscreen interface with ipod connection as well, standard! - Sam Smith


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Question 5
i have a brand new WV Golf GTI, but at the moment its not good in snow! and buttons to make it good in it.?...  i have a brand new WV Golf GTI, but at the moment its not good in snow! and buttons to make it good in it.

any buttons or anything in the snow!! please help snowing hRD IN ENGLAND AT THE MOMENT!

Answers
1)   The car is fine in the snow, it's the driver that needs to learn. - One Anti

2)   You can invest in a pair of snow socks. These cost about £50 and are worth it if you must travel in snow. Apart from four wheel drive (4motion) VWs all will struggle in the snow. This amount of snow in the UK is very unusual and we have to accept there are no magic bullets, or buttons in your case. - Bazza

3)   You need a 4x4 to avoid struggling. NO car apart from 4x4's can struggle! Not the car, its the snow! - Benjystick

4)   Get a set of winter tyres. 16" steel rims with 205/55/16 tyres will do. The car isn't the problem, it's your lack of winter preparation. - vavavoom

5)   Ok

You need to get snow socks or winter tyres. Winter tyres have a snowflake symbol or an m+s marking on the sidewall. The tread is very blocky and the individual tread blocks have thin cuts in them.

When driving in snow/ice with or without any of the above you need to use very little accelerator and when pulling away from stationary use 2nd gear not first.
when coming to a stop use the engine to slow the car not your brakes. So plan ahead and lift off the accelerator gently when you wish to come to a stop only using the brakes near the end. - Sean R


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