Friday, December 17, 2010

GOlf GTi 2.0, builds high revs and then takes an age to kick in. Any ideas why?

Question 1
GOlf GTi 2.0, builds high revs and then takes an age to kick in. Any ideas why?...  It seems a lot more than just turbo lag. Also it has been cold recently, with it being near christmas.
Thanks for any help...

Answers
1)   Sounds from your description like a slipping clutch unless you can explain more what it is doing . . . - who_is_jack_shit

2)   Could be the ECU chip settings to protect drive systems - Huge

3)   Clutch/transmission slippage. - Richard R

4)   Do you have a DSG transmission? There is a recall for the mechatronics units on some MK5 GTi's. It could be the problem.
You really should take it easy on the car when it's cold. Wait till it gets up to operating temp before pushing it hard. The factory ECU actually restricts power when it's still cold. That could also be part of what you are noticing.
There are also problems with the PCV valve which can cause boost leaks. The Diverter valve also can go out and that can cause boost problems as well. You will likely need to take it to the dealer to be sure. They can run logs and see what is happening.

Go to www.mkvgolf.com and ask on the message boards. There are alot of people who know that car very well there. I have a 2008 GTI myself. It's a great car. - Louis G

5)   This is extremely serious. Do not drive it except to a shop. About all you can do is check fluids, connections, and linkage adjustment.
If it is a manual, then the clutch has to be slipping, and if it is just something simple like adjustment, you could increase the cost to over $800 for a new clutch if you burn it out.
If it is an automatic, again it could be something simple like low ATF or a bad sensor, but it you let it slip and kick in with a lurch, the tranny will quickly burn up, costing over $2500.
Neither a manual nor an automatic should ever slip.
Slipping mean heat and rapid wear that quickly destroys something. - Motorhead


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Question 2
How can i make a 1995 vw jetta with automatic trans faster?...  i need to know if my car is worth the trouble of working on.

Answers
1)   it's not worth it at all. first off, it's an automatic and you only have 4 gears. the automatic Jettas had very tall ratios considering they were geared to go about 120-130, and your acceleration definitely suffers because of which. when your car was stock, it only had about 100-110hp. also factor in that it's 15 years old and probably has a lot of miles, your power reading right now is definitely less than 100hp. it's just not worth it man, even if it was a 5-speed. even if you go buy an intake, header, chip, etc you're only going to be making about 120-130hp tops after spending close to $1000. that's about the same power as a stock Civic EX from the same year, and it'll still be slow as hell. - James Dean

2)   You can do a couple of things like free flow air filter and a larger bore exhaust system but you are governed by your transmission. As others state, the car has age and mileage on its back and you may send it to an early grave if you thrash it about. If you do want to spend a bit of time and cash put a manual box in it together with the air filter and exhaust and it will feel a good deal more lively. If you then want to go on and have the engine worked on in the shape of re-chipping etc its up to you. - L G

3)   work on the engine by fitting turbo + sport chip - Ayman

4)   No way man automatic transmissions from VW in the 1990s were garbage. Sell that car and find one with a 5spd and the vr6 engine. - Nick

5)   sell it - DYINGsucks


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Question 3
I have a VW Transporter Diesel 1.9 from 1994?...  It has started leaking oil recently,first just little drops but today over a litre!.
When i stop the van and put a tub underneath the engine then go away when I return 20mins later its again half full,just over a litre.The leak is coming from the lower half of the engine and not the cylinder head.
Does anyone know the following 3 answers?
1.No garage can take my van until nextweek so can I drive it and keep refilling the engine with the oil that comes out when I stop?
2.Does it sound like a seal or gasket has broken?
3. Can KWIK-FIT repair seals on an engine and do an oil change?
NO OVERHEATING HAS OCCURED,thermostat has been in the middle during this problem.

Answers
1)   Personally I would not risk driving it as you cannot be certain of oil starvation. Kwik Fit will not carry spares for your vehicle so they would have to order parts in, if they can do it. - Bazza

2)   You may have broken the oil pan or possibly the block itself. Half a litre in 20 minutes is a serious leak. I wouldn't drive it because its likely leaking just as badly with the engine running and if you lose oil pressure you might seriously damage your engine in short order and turn a minor repair into a major one.

This has nothing to do with engine temperature. Your first indication of a problem might be the engine seizing up. - Howard L

3)   if it looses that much when stationary what do you think its going to be like when the oil is being pumped round the engine at high pressure, you will be loosing more than you think so just putting what you catch back in wont be enough, let alone all the dirt dust and crud you will be pouring in with it so dont do it, take it to somewhere/anywhere where they can actually see where the leak is coming from and do it soon before the whole engine is covered in splattered oil making it very difficult to see where the leak is.
hopefully its something simple that even the fitters at kwikfit can cope with - good luck - beenthere

4)   Sorry buy you need to get under and find out where it is coming from ! If you do not have that expertise get someone else to take a look. That kind of volume of oil being lost is serious and is not a crankshaft oil seal it may well be something like a fractured/corroded turbo feed or return pipe. You are courting disaster (for your engine) if you keep using it. - L G

5)   1. No, it can not be driven. I would not even drive it to the shop if it is more than a mile away.

2. It could be a zillion different things, but just by looking it should be very easy to tell exactly where is it coming from. Most likely the oil filter just came loose! Fix it, do not drive it at all.

3. Don't know KWIK-FIT, but if they are open, do it!

Final suggestion. This is way too much oil to be believed. So one possibility is that it is only partly oil. If you have a leak from the fuel pump, then diesel fuel would start filling up the crankcase, until it came out the front and rear seals.
Check the dipstick for over fill.
Smell the oil for fuel dillution, and see it it is too thin. - Motorhead


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Question 4
How can I get a used car without paying off my current broken down money draining Jetta?...  Ever since I got this '02 Jetta in 2007 it has given me problems. I bought it in a hurry because I had just started a new job and needed transportation. It was a bad financial decision and I paid way more than it was worth. Now after having replaced the engine and the transmission it has finally broken down but I need to get another car. What are my financing options. I still owe $6000 on the Jetta and I can't pay for two cars at the same time

Answers
1)   the best thing to do is find out the blue book price of your jetta and try to sale it and put that towards the 6000 you owe - LIL GOTTI

2)   If you owe more than it is worth the best thing to do is keep it. But, if it is costing too much money, you can trade it in and most dealers will add whatever you owe over the trade in value to the financing on the new car. It isn't really wise to do this, because it can start a chain reaction and you will always owe more than your car is worse if you make this a habit....not to mention trade in value is always below what you could privately sell it for. If you do it, i would suggest finding a car that is very dependable over the long run so that you don't continue to dig yourself a hole. - Ryan B

3)   Even though Ryan B's advice is horrible, I would probably vote his as best answer because he acknowledges the idea of trading in and refinancing is dangerous. He may be right that you should keep your car and struggle through. If the repairs are not too bad, just buck up and get them done. You'll need to have it in running condition to be able to sell it for any decent price, anyway. How about this for an idea, expanding on Ryan B's advice--get it running so you can sell it for as good a price as you can, buy a good condition classic beetle for 3 or 4 thousand. If you get a good one they are reliable, get good mileage, and you can do almost all the fixes yourself if needed. - Mark N

4)   Don't blame the car.
It is your fault when you over spend.
You should look for a good mechanic who could cost less and prevent major failures.
You should not have needed to replace the engine or transmission yet.
And if you did, you should have used salvage parts and spend very little.
A good mechanic will help you find a wreck or have one already himself.
There is no way you could possibly get a better car for under $6000, so you have to fix it.
And selling it would be foolish after you put it into such good shape.
But you should be able to buy a car from a wreck, and get a good engine and transmission for less they $1500, and the labor for the switch is only about $700.
The link is an example of what you should have done.
Craigslist has 2002 Jettas for less then $6000.
But it should not cost even $2300 to have yours completely redone.
Just do NOT go to a dealer.
They want to sell cars, not fix them. - Motorhead


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Question 5
something is draining my voltswagon jetta battery?...  i have a 1990 vw jetta 1.8lt i have a new battery and alternator and still dies in 6 days i did however replace a head unit with a dual 7 in touch screen im almost out of ideas and ready to sell it if i cant figuer it out...any help

Answers
1)   Voltswagon? Is that a hybrid? - Hank Scorpio

2)   I would check that you have the permanent live and the switched live connected to the Touch screen unit correctly. If they are reversed then your battery is feeding power to an open unit continuously , it seems too much of a coincidence. - L G

3)   You could still just have dirty battery terminals.
The alternator also will not work if the alternator warning light is burned out, because it gets the current to make a magnet through this bulb.
You also have to make sure the engine ground strap did not come loose, and the alternator is also grounded well.

Then to check for current leaks, you take one battery terminal off.
If a test light shows bright between the gap you just created between the clamp and terminal, then you have a continuous leak.
You disconnect things or pull fuses until it goes away, and you have it identified.
If you use a meter, try an ammeter instead of voltmeter, because there are supposed to be a few really tiny constant drains, but they will read as 12 volts even though really, really low amperage.

If you have a meter, you should probably also verify the alternator is working, even though new.
At the main point is across the battery (with terminals on) you should get over 13.5 volts when reved up. 12.5 is ok at idle. over 14.5 is too much. - Motorhead

4)   When did VW have a 1.8 litre turbo engine in the early 90's? That engine came out in '98. Also, you are going to get rid of a car with a simple electrical drain? Motorhead and L G are correct. Whomever installed that headunit messed up. - djaca70


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