Saturday, December 18, 2010

Does a VW Beetle make me look fruity?

Question 1
Does a VW Beetle make me look fruity?...  I'm 6'0 tall. 220 pounds. I fit in a beetle NICE! Worrying that my friends will start teasing me. Getting a great deal on one.

Answers
1)   Yes, you look fruity from my point of view. - Dying Turtlemouse

2)   Only to people with the gain turned up too high on their gaydar. - calnickel

3)   new beetle.....yes
old beetle......no - jared

4)   never let other people decide on your cars/house /women/shoes/shirts/pants/etc etc/if they are paying then they can decide/give them the chance/"listen if you think its fruity buy me what you want with your money and hand it over"that ought to shut them u p - ken k

5)   Depends on the year. If it is the 'new' Beetle, then yes (especially if convertible). If it is a classic (example 1974 Super Beetle), then no. At 6 feet, 220 lbs., you should not feel compelled to worry about it. I had a '70's era Superbeetle in the 80's for 10 years. Today, I drive a Honda fit I've owned for several years; who cares what anyone else thinks. They are fun vehicles. Enjoy it and good luck with the electrical system. - Topherelli

6)   GAWD!
If you're THAT concerned don't get the vehicle. Go on out and get yourself a HUGE planet killing pick up tuck or SUV. Preferably something that gets the WORST mileage. You'll *look* really cool. - Jim

7)   depend on color man - Yazan Alkhateeb


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Question 2
rear disk brakes dragging?...  my rear disk brakes locked up a few days ago. i let the car get warm and they finally loosened up but still dragged a lil bit. i havent drove the car in a few days but ive got in it to see hows the brakes are acting. sometimes they are just dragging and sometimes they are locked. im good at turning a wrench but i have no clue what the problem is or what to replace.

Answers
1)   First thing you wanna do is make sure there is no air in the lines. Then from there check to make sure nothing is loose, then most likely replace the disc pad if it goes that far.. Sounds like you might have air in your brake lines tho. - Michael

2)   Could be a hung up cable. Bad anti lock module. Bad calipers. - Ironball

3)   What kind of car do you have? There are a large number of different designs. Generally air in the system would not cause the brakes to drag. Air in the system is generally going to give you a spongy pedal. The possible causes that it could be, is a faulty E-brake (cable, adjuster ect...), or siezed caliper piston. My advice for you is to take off the wheel, and take off the caliper, check the piston, you mentioned that they locked up previously, chances are you are going to need new calipers if they overheated extremely, it could have also warped your rotor. If you dont feel comfortable take it to shop. We need a bit more information before i can give you a definative answer. Good luck - Tom I

4)   THE SLIDE ON THE CALIPERS ARE STICKY OR A E-BRAKE IS STUCK ON A LITTLE OR YOU OR SOME ONE PUT SOME THING OTHER THAN BREAK FLUID IN THE MASTER CYCLINDER. TAKE IT TO A PLACE THAT DO FREE BREAK INSPECTIONS AND THAY WILL TELL YOU WHATS GOING ON. MOST MAJURE AUTO REPAIR SHOPS DO FREE INSPECTIONS. GOOD LUCK - gunbunny2bg4u

5)   The brakes need to be dismantled and the pistons wound back into the calliper. The support frames need cleaning down with a wire brush and then the whole thing building back up with new pads. The rear callipers work in a very hostile environment and due to the very slow wear they do tend to seize eventually and need periodic maintenance. - L G

6)   Need the make model and year.

VW's usually have a bad parking brake cable. Nearly imposible for a rookie to disconnect. See a nice VW shop to have them check it out. Not insulting you just know what a MF those cables are.

ASE Cert Auto tech, since 1978, 2003 GLI
had A1 to A4 for more miles and races than I can even remember. - sci


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Question 3
GOlf GTi 2.0, builds high revs and then takes an age to kick in. Any ideas why?...  It seems a lot more than just turbo lag. Also it has been cold recently, with it being near christmas.
Thanks for any help...

Answers
1)   Sounds from your description like a slipping clutch unless you can explain more what it is doing . . . - who_is_jack_shit

2)   Could be the ECU chip settings to protect drive systems - Huge

3)   Clutch/transmission slippage. - Richard R

4)   Do you have a DSG transmission? There is a recall for the mechatronics units on some MK5 GTi's. It could be the problem.
You really should take it easy on the car when it's cold. Wait till it gets up to operating temp before pushing it hard. The factory ECU actually restricts power when it's still cold. That could also be part of what you are noticing.
There are also problems with the PCV valve which can cause boost leaks. The Diverter valve also can go out and that can cause boost problems as well. You will likely need to take it to the dealer to be sure. They can run logs and see what is happening.

Go to www.mkvgolf.com and ask on the message boards. There are alot of people who know that car very well there. I have a 2008 GTI myself. It's a great car. - Louis G

5)   This is extremely serious. Do not drive it except to a shop. About all you can do is check fluids, connections, and linkage adjustment.
If it is a manual, then the clutch has to be slipping, and if it is just something simple like adjustment, you could increase the cost to over $800 for a new clutch if you burn it out.
If it is an automatic, again it could be something simple like low ATF or a bad sensor, but it you let it slip and kick in with a lurch, the tranny will quickly burn up, costing over $2500.
Neither a manual nor an automatic should ever slip.
Slipping mean heat and rapid wear that quickly destroys something. - Motorhead


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Question 4
My 1978 VW van won't idle, I've changed plugs, spark plugs and wires, new gas fuel injector cleaner.?...  What should I try next?

Answers
1)   Could be the auto choke has stopped working correctly or needs adjustment - George Orwell

2)   this happened to me. first check the carb. usually it could either be clogged or the idle setting is off. Look in the owners manual at where the setting is at and adjust it. if that doesn't work get some carb cleaner and clean it out. - Steve

3)   Does it have an automatic choke?? From memory, these guys have an auto choke that works on temperature and gravity.. its an amazing system when it works and sucks when it does not... I would play with the choke settings while the car is running to see if I could get it to idle (by toggling the choke by hand).. if you can get it to idle, then the auto choke needs replacing (or repairing)... - Apeboy

4)   VW vans were fuel injected since 1975, so there are no carbs, chokes, or idle jets.

If it revs up and runs, it is not likely the ignition.
Spark is weaker at higher speed than at idle.
About the only thing that could be wrong with ignition would be timing.
If you have a distributor with 2 hoses to the diaphram, (advance hose is black, and retard hose is green), then you have to remember that static timing has to be about 18 degrees more advanced than dynamic timing. Remember to check for distributor diaphram leakage by seeing it hold vacuum applied to the 2 hose ports. (You suck on it, then plug with tongue, then wait to see if hold or fades)

So it is most likely to be fuel injection.
Check a plug to see if too rich or too lean.
Temperature sender is a single wire to a metal plug in head near #3. Check with ohmmeter, and replace if 0 or infinite. I believe cold around 2000 ohms, hot around 300 ohms, but not sure.
Not likely to be fuel filter since that is worst at high speed.
But could be pump. Believe it should be around 40 psi.
Not likely if it runs at all, but if fuel injectors do not feel or sound like they are clicking, then it could be the porcelain resistor packs for the injectors, the signal wire from the distributor has bad connection, or brainbox. Resistors each to check with ohmmeter. Again 0 or infinite is bad.
There is also an intake air temp sensor in air mass senor (flapper box between air cleaner and butterfly). Can't remember which leads on the large sensor plug. I believe 200 ohms or something like that. Bad if 0 or infinite. The other leads turn on the fuel pump and give resistance and contact pulses when flap opens up or closes down.

Finally, there are a few intake problems to consider.
Any cracked or loose hose could cause a lean mixture that would be most noticeable at idle. Use a piece of hose to listen through, searching for any sucking sound from a leak, like a manifold gasket or something.
EGR valve also suspect.
If you pull and plug the activation hose from the EGR diaphram, the little exhaust pipe to the EGR should remain cold when you start it, even if you rev. If it gets hot, the valve is stuck open and you need to clean out the carbon making it stick. Check the diaphram for leakage. EGR must not open at idle or top speed. Only supposed to open in mid-range. (But engine valve life increased if you just take it off and plug it.)
Purge valve can also act like a vacuum leak.
It vents the gas tank through the charcoal canister.
Is not supposed to open at idle, only higher speeds.
Finally, PVC valve from crankcase can also open too much at idle, and cause same effect as vacuum leak. Taking off oil cap will cause engine to not idle for example. - Motorhead

5)   Hey Rick,
Motorhead has a pretty comprehensive answer, it's all stuff you'd find in the Bentley Service Manual.
THAT'S where I'd begin... Go and get the service manual for the vehicle. If you've done all the work you described yourself? You shouldn't have any problem following the troubleshooting guides in there. About the only tools you're going to need that you might not already have are a multimeter and a test light. A question for you though... Was the van sitting for any considerable period of time? If it was you might want to change out the fuel filter. When you pull the old filter check and see what comes out. Also check ALL THE SOFT LINES and replace any that are cracked or old. Fuel fires are no fun and your van is gettin up there in years. - Jim


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Question 5
Layout of fuses in 93 VW jetta GLI?...  93 jetta GLI, dont have the fuse cover or the layout pic of what fuses and relays are what. Is there a website that has info like this that will show me what goes were? I have no speedometer and tach. I have power to everything else on the cluster. Connections behind the cluster are tight and all appears to be good. Any info would be awsome. If there is a fuse or relay for the speedo and tach or is the cluster on its last leg?

Answers
1)   Most likely it is the signal sender in the transaxle, and not the cluster or fuses.
But you can have yours check first before buying a new sensor. - Motorhead

2)   You question has no answer since there is no such thing as a 1993 Jetta GLI. The Jetta GLI was discontinued for the Mk3 generation and picked up again for the Mk4. - Nick

3)   Nothing is good about foreign! If everybody bought USA then there would be no unemployment!!! We would be swimming in money!!! - oncebittentwiceshy

4)   Have you checked the multi cable connector that goes onto the gearbox sender to ensure it is fitted or otherwise undamaged ? You will see two similar items, one is the reverse light switch and the other is the sender for the speedo. If you do not have a map of the fuses it does not stop you pulling each one in turn and checking for a blown fuse. - L G


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