Will my VW Golf 99 MK4 last 3 days without thermostat and housing?... My thermostat went kaput yesterday and the AA removed it and its housing. I have work doing deliveries this weekend and Tuesday. Probably totaling to 9 hours of driving.
I live in the UK so at the moment the temperature is in the minus.
Will my car survive till its repair on Wednesday? and what might go wrong if I do use it?
Thanks
Perhaps the housing hasn't been removed. I drove it 20 miles back home with no issues. Also the AA guy gave me just the damaged thermostat so I only assume the housing is still in there. He did say the housing also needed replacing. Something to do with the pin locator.
After looking at the notes he left me, he did just remove the thermostat.
Answers
1) I should last about half an hour's driving before you need a replacement engine. I kid you not.
Just read your additions. No probs at all if only the stat is out and the car has water in it. The heater won't work that well but the car will not suffer any damage. - Bazza
2) No, If they took the housing off then all the water will pump straight out when you run the engine.
If the housing was still on you could run without the thermostat for a few days, it'll just mean the engine temp will probably stay really low as the water will be constantly sent around the engine. I ran my old escort with the thermostat frozen open for months.
But run it completely without water and you risk overheating (Even in this weather) and either seizing the engine or warping the head.
Can you get the housing put back on again? - j
3) well my first question is, if he has removed the housing, is there any water in your engine, radiator, water reservoir, if not your engine will over heat and seize up.
i can't see how you can have water if the housing has gone
i would not drive it - Tin-God
4) No way to contain the coolant so you just cannot use it at all - Timbo is here
5) Without the thermostat housing you will lose whatever coolant is left in the system and your engine will overheat (although it may not show on the temp gauge) and the engine will be damaged beyond repair, either by seizing up during a journey or the engine block or cylinder head becoming warped.
Either way this will result in you needing a replacement engine or vehicle.
If you can have the housing replaced, including the gaskets to prevent coolant loss due to leaks, (remember to refill with coolant) you can drive the vehicle without risk but the engine will run cold and fuel economy may also suffer. - Richard
6) It will take ages to heat up and your engine will never get to its most efficient operating temperature so your fuel consumption will increase. You probably won't get heat inside the car either on a short journey. On short journeys, this could cause your oil to emulsify and block small oilways. It can be driven, but only you can make that choice knowing that it may have a harmful effect on your engine. - sheetwowsheet
7) Gawd you ask bad questions!
Load it up and hammer them for telling you the truth.
Drive it your mileage will suck. Lousy shop if they can't get a thermostat on same day. Unacceptable here in the USA.
ASE Cert Auto Tech, since 1978, 2003 GLI - sci
8) You had the AA attend to the car, in the flesh so to speak. I am sure the AA man gave you a full run down and advice ?
Anyway, your car will run fairly happily but it will not attain its optimum running temperature. The downside is it may be slightly sluggish and will use more fuel, the heater will be a good deal less effective especially in this cold spell. Whatever you do, take note of what your AA man said and get the new housing as it will cost very little and obviously there is a fault with it.If nothing else it gives you the opportunity to have the engine refilled with a "new" strong coolant, you must ensure that the coolant used is the VW recommended type(Red) as others can cause head gasket failure. - L G
9) It should be ok for a few days. Make sure you have enough anti-freeze in it so it doesn't freeze up (since you are in minus temps!). Your heater/defroster may not work hardly at all. Usually it is the thermostat that a)keeps the water warm and b) causes enough pressure to push coolant through the heater core.
Wear heavy clothes!
If it is really cold you might want to take a piece of card board or something and put partially in front of the radiator. Watch the temp gage so doesn't get too hot. - Thomas E
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Question 2
I am being charged $580.00 for upper and lower control arms on a 2001 Passat. Fair deal?...
Installation included.
Answers
1) That is not a 1961 beetle. VW's are not cheap "peoples' cars" anymore. Pay up. Back in '61 the mechanic might only charge $25/Hr. Today it's $100/hr. - don r
2) From what I've seen, it's extremely rare that a VW dealer charges a fair price for parts n labor.
Next time, Honda or Hyundai. - Squeaky Wheeler
3) No, so why are you replacing the upper and lower control arms? That sounds pretty insane. Has to be a REAL reason to be changing out your front suspension. Need to know, just one side (2 arms) or both sides(4 arms)?
Don't let the rude jerks put you off, they were run out of Honda and other places and just live to insult us.
ASE Cert Auto Tech, since 1978, 2003 GLI - sci
4) Its not beond a Doy mechanics job.
passats have 8 arms on the front.
just through experience it will not need all 8. garages will always quote on all 8. or 4 if it's one side that has play in it.
a good mechanic will tell you which of the arms is actually at fault and just replace them as needed.
It does sound like a fair price considering the job will take about 2.5 to 3 hours for all 8.
I am in the uk and over here you can buy pattern parts at about 2/3 of the price of the dealer price - colin h
5) The link provided has a whole kit with all 8 arms and bolts for $169.
So it all depends on how many you actually need.
Assuming you need just the upper and lower on both sides, that would be 4 arms.
But internet prices are not immediately accessible and of doubtful quality, so I guess it does not sound like too bad of a price.
Make sure they include an alignment though. - Motorhead
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Question 3
VW Polo Random Loses power?... Hi,
I posted a question on here previously about my Polo 04 Reg SDI losing power randomly.
The mass air flow sensor was suggested but we have given it to VW for over a week and they said we dont know sorry. This elaves us with a cra that randomly loses power when trying to accelerate.
Please help
Hi,
VW said they have checked
coolant and fuel temp sensors
checked EGR valve
Checked intake manifold flap
checked conme of injection
fuel filter is new
checked injectors all within spec.
By losing power I mean you try to accelerate in 4th gear at around 40mph and it doesnt pick up it is almost stuck in a rut, limp - you have to go down to 3rd and eventually it comes out of it. This does not happen every time you are in this situation so is difficult to show garage. VW didnt have any answers and really are unsure of where to go next. Thanks for all your advice will try these solutions if you have any more please let me know!
Answers
1) I don't understand your question.
You said your "VW Polo Random Loses power"
Um... The Polo never had any power to begin with, you know?
How could it lose power it never had? - TOYOTA SUCKS
2) Call or write VW's zone and regional managers and CEO. Get their names from the general manager of the dealer that said get lost.
And try some other VW dealers if they arent too far. - Squeaky Wheeler
3) it could be a few things depending on what you mean by losing power, is the lights and stuff diming if so its more than likely the alternator, if it just wont go over a certain speed and kinda skippen its more than likely the fuel filter. if you could explain more i could more than likely help more. - Tomis Sanderson
4) BBA-reman
Unit 1 Stirling Park
Laker Road
Rochester
Kent
ME1 3QR
United Kingdom
+44 (0)1634 687222
Fax +44 (0)1634 864056
try asking the tec guys here they are usually very good. did vw give you a print out of diag scan? - colin h
5) Air mass sensors rarely go bad, but they do often malfunction because of foam deposits from the PCV.
Look for oil/water foam on the air mass sensor or in the tube from the PCV valve.
You could also have a bad purge valve. Listen for sucking or hissing when you open the gas cap.
The ERG valve could also be sticking. Pull and plug the rubber vacuum tube going to the EGR valve, and then make sure the EGR does not get hot when you rev the engine. With the tube back on, it should get hot when you rev the engine. If it gets hot when the tube is off, the EGR is leaking or sticking and needs cleaning or replacing. - Motorhead
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Question 4
Which is the best colour in Volkswagen Vento in India? Shadow Blue,white,red, biege or black,silver?... Is blue vento too bright to look at?
Answers
1) black - Isaiah
2) white as it reflects heat better - colin h
3) white rocks dear - atul
4) biege or black luks very sexy nd class apart.make sure you have the chrome lining added to it - Ikon
5) Red will be my pick - nabeelps
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Question 5
my 2007 2.0 tdi passat splurted twice and then suddenly stopped with low oil pressure warning light saying?... STOP the car had stopped anyhow i wasnt getting a warning light for low oil or any warning lights any how i got out and checked oil level and i topped it up with about 1 and a half litres then tried to restart but it wont start have i ruined my engine if so what sort of money am i talking to fix it my car has no warranty and i have 55,000 miles on the clock
Answers
1) Did you turn the key completely off for about 1 min? Then try 5 min if that doesn't work or disconnect the battery for at least 1 min. My thought is the computer isn't resetting. When you turn the key on go slow, let all at censors reset. You might hear clicking noises for about 15 seconds. Or you mite have a censor that is bad or disconnected. Maybe someone else can offer better info or is familiar with your car. - Rich
2) a new engine will cost a fortune 1.5l is an awfully lot of oil to have to top it up with
does not sound good - colin h
3) A liter is almost exactly a quart, and 1.5 quarts low should not blow it up. In fact, it should get tight and not turn over if there was actually low oil damage.
I would suspect more likely the pressure sensor is bad or you got a windage drop in oil pressure from a hard turn.
If so, then all you need to do is have the codes checked and reset.
Autozone can do that.
But you did not tell us if the light stayed on, if adding the oil made the light go off, etc.
If you really did harm the bearing, which I really, really doubt, it would not be that expensive.
At such low miles, you would not even take the head off.
You just switch the rod bearings.
It can even be done in the car for less then $500
But if the bearing really were bad, you would see it when the pan was off.
You would see metal particles, (copper, lead, tin, etc.), and heat marks.
But if the car cranks over and does not make knocking noise, the oil and bearings are not a problem.
It is something else entirely.
You probably need to diagnose the fuel since there is no spark on a diesel. - Motorhead
4) I think you need to speak to your dealer as there may well be a control device which shuts down the engine in these circumstances to prevent serious damage occurring. Although short on oil I would not have thought it so short that you would have caused the engine to seize up.In certain cars such as Mercedes there is a "Limp mode" built in to protect the vehicle in certain circumstances. Hopefully you are experiencing the same, a new engine would be a fortune. - L G
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