my hazard lights flash after i lock car octavia?

Question 1
my hazard lights flash after i lock car octavia?...  

Answers
1)   They are supposed to for a few seconds. - Ron S

2)   Whats the question? - Johnny DJ

3)   All my cars do the same thing.... this way you know when they lock. But what is your question? - LT

4)   This is a visual indicator that you have locked your car - It should also do the same when you open it? - ROBIN

5)   Most cars do this. Some make a bleeping noise too. It is perfectly fine, just an indication that the doors are locked and the alarm is armed. - Andy

6)   Ok, if I didn't know that an Octavia's hazard lights flash when it is locked, I do now. What question did you want to ask? - sheetwowsheet

7)   My heartiest congratulations.

Oh, were you asking whether that should happen? Yes, it's quite normal. - champer


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Question 2
is difficult and expensive to maintain an old volkswagen beetle (late 60s early 70s)?...  i want to get one but im worried because the engine in is the back, and because its old that it will be expensive to maintain it

Answers
1)   very expensive - ep1909

2)   If you can do the work yourself, it would be a fun hobby. If you have to pay for the maintenance, it will cost you a bundle. - Who Me

3)   My friend had one. It was a cool old car, but it wasn't something you could use for regular transportation. It always had some little thing going wrong. It was really easy to work on though. All the parts were still around and fairly easy to get. It's just that something was always seeming to go wrong. It's the same with most vehicles that are getting to be 40-50 years old though. At some point they become a hobby and not real transportation. - The Freak Show

4)   Assuming you get one in good and reliable shape (which is not difficult) the typical expenses over a YEAR exclusive of insurance and registration) and also excluding gasoline since I have no idea how much you drive but figure mileage at about 23 to 26 mpg, are:

Oil Changes (minimum of every other month.. once a month is better) @ $25 each.........$150

Check and Adjust valves ... at least twice a year)................$150

Tires should last for 30,000. A set of four runs about $400 installed so factor that in.........$100

If properly maintained a good engine should last at least 10 years @ $3000 installed
so a prorated MAXIMUM expense over that period..........$300

The tranny is usually good for about 30 years.. lets ignore that one

Misc. prorated costs and upkeep (lights, shocks, fuses, battery (eventually)...$100

So your car will average out with costs of about $800 per year as my best guess. However most of this work is simple and easy (if somewhat messy) so if you do it yourself figure costs of about half of that...

been driving my 71 bug for some time now and that sounds about right ...

. - ca_surveyor

5)   For putting around town - they are fine. At low power levels they will probably not require much unusual maintenance. They do require valve adjustments periodically. If they are run hard say on the freeway at 70 or more or lots of hills they tend to get hot and then leak oil around the pushrod tubes and the head cover gaskets. Especially if your pistons/rings are worn.
The engines are actually a very good design as long as they are not "worn out". There are high temperature silicon rubber push rod tube seals that help stop the leaks. And good rubber gaskets for the head covers (as opposed to cork).
And if you are inclined to want to dabble in mechanics they are not that hard to work on. You can drop the engine out in about 30 minutes using a floor jack or a transmision jack. You have to get he car high enough on stands to clear the fan shroud. Unhook the throttle cable, the fuel line and a few wires, 4 bolts hold it on to the transmission. Support the engine with the floor jack (or trans jack) loosen the 4 bolts (2 above, 2 below) then balancing the engine level - with draw it a couple inches (50 mm) until the trans shaft clears the clutch. (if it is an automatic you have to unbolt the torque converter from the torque plate - there are 6 or 8) bolts around the outside of the torque plate.
The air cooling sheet metal is a pain. take pictures and notes about how it all fits together. If you skip a piece on assembly it all has to come off again!
When putting it back in the most important thing is to have the clutch plate centered in the clutch. Use a spline tool to do this. Make sure the engine is "square" with the trans so the shaft will go in. You may have to rock it a little bit to get the splines to line up. All there is to it. - Joyce

6)   i drive a 1970 bug daily that has never been restored and has the original engine that at about 81000 miles. i honestly cant remember the last time i spent money fixing it. but when i do have to fix it i do the work myself which is cheaper. it really depends on how well the car was maintained before you bought it. the guy i got the car from took really good care of the car. if i were you i would do as much research on the particular car you are looking at to see if the previous owner took good care of the car. just change the oil every 3000 miles and adjust the valves every 3000 as well. the brakes should be adjusted every 1500 miles - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)


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Question 3
what is the delivery time on new vw polo?...  

Answers
1)   ask the salesman before you order it. - Sal*UK

2)   8 - 10 weeks.

Why would you buy a polo? i assume its for your gran? - Delihah Yahooer And Proud Of It

3)   Depends on model and availability. Put a clause in any order that if it is not delivered to you by a certain date, you can have a deposit refund. Dealers don't like it, as it is legally binding on them. - mick s

4)   I'm sure it varies depending on lots of different things, why don't you ask a VW dealer? - EvelynThe ModifiedDog.

5)   A new car is made to order as there are so many variations of build. The official time is 20-24 weeks. Under normal circumstances it would come in 10-12 weeks. - twentyseven-fortyone


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Question 4
VW Polo 1998 wont start - dead battery or starter motor?!?...  Hi all,

I have a 1998 vw polo 1.4 and it has been lying idle for the past 5 days- it has been very cold like minus 5 here since last week and when I attempt to start the car I hear a clicking noise. The lights, radio & horn are all working.

I thought it was a dead battery so I got a charged battery pack which is definitely working. I connected everything correctly EXCEPT the positive (red) cable which I couldn't connect to the exact spot due to a piece of metal which cannot be removed or moved being in the way!!

I attempted to start the car & it tried to start but just failed (an improvement as before I did this it wouldn't start AT ALL)

Then my neighbour came out of his house & said he thinks its the starter motor because its clicking? He said all it needed was a tap but he didn't know where the starter motor was and neither do i!

So a few questions- please if u can answer please do!

1. is it more likely to be a dead battery or the starter motor?

2. Where is the starter motor on a 1998 polo 1.4?

3. what should I do with the starter motor when I locate it?

4. perhaps it really is a dead battery & if so how on earth do I get it connected properly to the positive cable- this piece of metal is connected to the rest of the battery & I just dint know what to do with it!


Thank you!!!!!!!!!
I honestly dont know how old that battery is- at least 3 years old but possibly more!

Answers
1)   If the car was OK before and you've just left it for 5 days in the freezing cold, 100% it needs a new battery.
The one that's on it is so knackered it's not even taking a decent charge.
They only last 4 or 5 years, how old is it? - EvelynThe ModifiedDog.

2)   a car battery can last anything form 3years to 10 years. often most cheaper ones start to fail around 5-6 years and cold weather really show a weak or poor battery up.
if you have a FULLY charged battery and the solenoid just clicks? then this is probably a starter motor fault ( exchange to sort) and a heavy Tap on side of it or solenoid will often ( not always) allow it to engage and crank engine.
all starter motors can be found by following with eye the edge of bell housing to engine( where engine flywheel and clutch is located) since all ( any car etc) starter motors engage on teeth on edge of the flywheel to work ) this is normally about a third to halfway up from sump one one side of engine.
as it cranked Ok ? when new battery pack was fitted we can assume it was simply a dead battery and not a solenoid issue at this stage.
the other 'red wire' must be attached in order to enable ignition to occur. ask a Friend or check with a mechanic how to affix this . - hornchurchmale

3)   Hi,its your battery.You stud the car for five days.Don't know What kind of journeys you do as that has an affect on how charged the battery gets.I believe it worked fine when you parked it up. When you tried to start it with battery pack you weren't able to make the best connection to the red (live) terminal that would have made a difference to how she tried to start.If you try any kind of jump start again Connect it to the piece of metal you say you cant remove as close to and so long as it goes on to the live terminal and it should make a lot of difference. If you use another car to jump off let it idle for a while to put charge back in to the flat battery.You also say with the jumper pack it seemed to improve. I believe you mean went from just clicking to engine turning slowly almost sounding like it was coughing. - Charles

4)   Dead battery, probably completely life expired at that age as anything over 3 years is a bonus - a new battery should cure it immediately. - Timbo is here

5)   Batteries lose a lot of power in the cold. If the battery capacity is reduced it will show up in cold weather. You say the lights work - and they will. They only take about 10-15 amps of power. The starter may take 200 amps.
one easy test is to turn on the lights and then crank the engine. When you turn to start if the starter clicks and the lights go very dim or completely out that means all the "juice" the battery is putting out is going through the starter armature to ground and it is not enough to break the engine loose and turn it.
If the starter clicks and there is NO change to the head light intensity - it means the solenoid is not connecting. The solenoid could be "weak" because of the low battery. You need to make sure the battery is strong.
As to the other part of your question about "a piece of metal" being in the way - was the 2nd battery you got not the same configuration? You certainly MUST get the cables connected properly or the engine wont run.
I think the head light on test will indicate if your battery is weak and the solenoid is working. I did have a VW starter fail once because the internal solenoid contacts burned out (after about 120,000 miles). There are some copper buttons in there that wear over time from arcing.
If the car is high mileage - you might need to just get a rebuilt starter. It will have new bearings, brushes and contacts in it and will solve any starter problems. - Joyce


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Question 5
i have a problem with the cooling fan and temperature gauge on my vw golf?...  everytime i switch on ignition both of my cooling fans comes on and stays on until about 5-10 mins after i have switch off the engine and its draining my battery also and my temperature gauge is not working either. My mechanic has reset all this fault soo many times but after a while it always seems to go wrong again....whats my problem pls does anybody know??...but my heater works fine, thank god!...PLS HELP!!thanks
when i dont use the car for a day thats when the battery goes flat
2001 Y reg
to jock, we did change the relay and the switch which did the trick but 2-3 weeks afta the problem came back...??

Answers
1)   if engine is running it WILL NOT hurt battery
1 check/replace temp tensor
2 battery and/or slternator bad... - pedro7of9

2)   Head gasket failure - big job - Maid in England

3)   if old car your motor tells you is worn of and overheats will case soon

new car computer software glitch - eurometrix

4)   Hi there it must be an electrical fault it could be a stuck relay locate you engine compartment fuse box and take out the relays for the fans give them a hit on the side knock them against a wall or something and refit see if ok if not then try them one at a time to see if one is causing the problem also test out your radiator fan switch . with your battery running flat after a day it does sound as if there is a fault in the relay and this is draining the battery.Jock - jock

5)   Sounds like the first thing you need is a NEW MECHANIC! He has his eyes and hands on the car and has been unable to fix it.
Usually this sounds like a temperature sensor problem - so you check the sensor. If it is ok - you check the wires to the sensor. You don't say the year of the car. Older cars had a temp sensor in the radiator hose that directly triggered a relay that turned on the fans. Newer cars have an ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor that signals the engine computer and when it gets to high - the computer turns on the fans. Complicating matters is that if you have a/c there is probably a pressure or temp switch that turns on the fans when a/c is loaded.
Someone needs to trace the entire system and figure it out.
Re: battery. a mechanic needs to check for a short - or a parasitic draw on the battery which is making it go flat. If he finds one then he has to pull fuses and trace it down to the cause. If no draw do a load test on the battery - may just be a bad battery. - Thomas E


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