i want to buy a 1968 beetle but i want it to be fast. how fast will 1200 cc go? 2276cc how fast will that go?

Question 1
i want to buy a 1968 beetle but i want it to be fast. how fast will 1200 cc go? 2276cc how fast will that go?...  i want to know how much horse power and what is the top speed the can go? also 0-60 would be nice. thank you. please help me out.

Answers
1)   well one at the track was running 11 second quarter miles. - ladystang

2)   zero to 60? those things wont go 60. - coffeend

3)   lol, you have no idea what you're getting into. the old air-cooled VW's had virtually no power at all, the best ones still only had about 50-60hp. my parents had a '74 when i was a kid, it couldn't even go 70mph and the 0-60 time was probably about a minute. certain companies make performance crate engines for these cars, and i've seen some that are decently quick, but the engines don't take kindly to excessive performance. you just need to understand that air-cooled VW's like the old Beetle are based on technology from the 1920's and 30's, it just can't handle the stresses of excessive horsepower. - Richard Ramirez

4)   because its such a weak and old car, you gonna spend over 3x its worth to put it on a track. - Vince Tam

5)   not designed to go fast, it's a slow car. u need to find an old porsche engine from a 911 to drop in. - ricardo9505

6)   a 1200 will do about 65mph with the stock tranny and 0-60 in about 30 seconds. and its going to put out about 35 hp (when it was new or freshly rebuilt) a 2276 will easily put out about 175-200 hp and with a stock tranny you can probably do 100mph but i wouldnt unless you want to throw a rod or spin a bearing. put a 2276cc and a gene berg 5 speed in there and have fun driving it at 140 mph and a 0-60 time of around 8 seconds - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)

7)   The range of engines you listed would be from a dog to a screamer.
But realistically you would have to spend a lot to get to get the stock 60 hp to be more than 70 hp or so. To get 200 hp would cost thousands.
The stock 60 hp of a dual port 1600 will get you up to 80 and cruise all day at 70 mph.
You will get over 30 mpg, and it will last for over a decade, if you don't abuse it.
Replacement engines are also very inexpensive, less then $900. - Motorhead


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Question 2
jetta engine help!!!?...  i will give as much detail as i can
its an 01 jetta 1.8t wolfsberg manual transmission with 98 thousand miles
oil changes have been made and i just recently put in new spark plugs and a new air filter
my problem is that over time my car has been idling wierd and would randomly die on me if rpms werent high enough, basicaly just when im not in gear. this randomly started happening about a month ago stopped ocuredd again then stopped happening and after i did all the maintenance i talked about it ran just fine. but just a few days after it started idling and dying again and its even worst. i let it warm up before driving it but it just idles crazy and is loud and just struggles to run unless its up to higher rpms. ive read that the throttle body might need to be cleaned out, a while back it threw up check engine lights saying it had a random misfire and from what ive heard online is that a dirty throttle body would cause it to stall during idle and cause random misfires. any help would be greatly appreciated
the plugs looked ok when i pulled them out just old but nothing stood out and the coil packs looked fine as well
from what ive heard ot sounds like throttle body , i asked my friend about it and he thinks it could be a vaccum leak

Answers
1)   Have you tried simply having a mechanic check your idle speed? It might just be set too low. It can fall out of adjustment over time. - Elise

2)   First, when you changed plugs, where any fouled or different?
If so, the you might simply have a bad wire.
They start to short out more and more, from moisture, oil, etc.

But the throttle body is also likely.
The PVC throws up oil and water foam, and it collects on the throttle body.
The throttle body works by being heated and checking how cool the air has made it, so any insulator, like water and oil foam, totally screws it up.
Take it off first before spraying it clean, so that you don't get carb cleaner solvents down the engine.
If the PVC really throws a lot of foam, I usually have to lengthen the PVC tubing down to a metal can in the cold airflow, to act as a condenser and filter, to keep the water and oil out of the intake.

If nothing so far, then it could be the purge value or ERG, but let me know how it goes first. - Motorhead

3)   Open the air circuit from inlet to turbo and clean thoroughly. Particularly the air filter.
Check the fuel circuit, particularly the fuel filter. Set both circuits and keep the idle at around 1000 rpm max. It should be ok - tvl

4)   You already hit on one possible cause. Check all vacuum pipes for splits as well as all other hoses and connections, something is upsetting the balance. - L G

5)   Listen to your friend about the vacuum leak. Just start replacing them 1 at a Time! The need to be replaced anyway your car is almost 10.

ASE Cert Auto Tech, since 1978, 2003 GLI - sci


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Question 3
Is the gear box in the Porsche 914 and the old Volkswagen Bug interchangeable?...  

Answers
1)   The 914 was a VW Type 4 engine. In the Type 4, it hung out the rear and in the 914, it was spun 180° so the mass of the engine was in the middle. The 914 was a 5-speed, though, and I think the Type 4 was a 4-speed.

I'll watch this discussion with interest. - Picture Taker

2)   Picture Taker is correct that the Porsche 914 transaxle is not at all like the old VW bug transaxle, even though they have the same bolt pattern and input shaft.
Since the 914 was a mid engine car instead of the engine hanging out the back like a VW, the differential has to turn the opposite direction.
The shift linkage also comes in from the side on a 914 instead of from the front like a VW.
Even the output CV joint flanges are slightly larger on the 914, since it used the CV joints from the Van instead of the bug. - Motorhead

3)   Yada Yada Yada,

NO -the 914 sourced parts from the Bus and the 411.

That stuff would required major cutting and welding to mount a 914 drive train.

ASE Cert Auto Tech, since 1978, 2003 GLI - sci


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Question 4
Starting problems with VW 1600 dual port motor?...  I have a bug with a 1600 dual port motor (engine code is AH), and it cranks, but won't start. I've double checked all the electrical, made sure it gets fuel, and checked the spark, and everything seems right. The only thing that doesn't seem quite right is that it cranks very slowly, even with a fully charged battery. Can this cause it to not start? And would the slow crank be the starter going out, or a different problem? Thanks

Answers
1)   There seems to be a problem if it is cranking slowly. It may be a starter motor issue and that is "sapping" power that should go to your HT circuit to fire the spark plugs. You could try a "slave" car/Battery and jump leads to see if that gets things going. - L G

2)   check the wire connections at your starter solenoid. if they dont have a good connection you wont get volts and it wont crank fast enough. if that doesnt help turn the ignition on and with a screw driver touch the 2 terminals together on the starter to see if that spins it fast enough. its probably a bad starter solenoid. - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)

3)   You need to do a starter draw test.
First make sure it is not binding, by turning it with a wrench on the alternator.
Then put a voltmeter across the battery.
It should read 12.5 at rest.
Then try to crank it.
It it drops below 10 or so, there is a problem.
If when you stop cranking it comes back to 12.5, it is excessive starter draw.
You could try the starter bushing and clean the commutator.
(The bushing is not in the starter, but in the bellhousing where the starter shaft rests.)
(It is usually easier to just replace a starter than to clean the commutator.)
If it does not come back up to 12.5, it is the battery.
If it does not drop below 11, it is a bad engine ground strap or dirty terminals.
(Since the engine is mounted on rubber, it is insulated and requires a braided copper ground strap from the transmission to body.)
(Battery terminals should be shiny and greased.) - Motorhead


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Question 5
parked my 1998 Vw in garage for 2 years , replaced battery engine wont catch, told not getting fire?...  in the past I always could just replace the battery and it would run, now it cranks but wont turn over.

Answers
1)   Check the spark plugs - i eat monkeys

2)   It is probably a fuel problem, but it could also be spark.
To easily test, try spraying lots of starting fluid down the air intake.
If it fires at all, then there is spark.
Listen for the fuel pump, open the test port to see if there is any pressure, put a gauge on it, etc.
It could just be the relay is bad from sitting. - Motorhead

3)   If it's been sitting for 2 years it may well be bad gas is the problem, stuff is highly volatile and evaporates over time. What you're left with in a lot of cases is varnish and deposits throughout the fuel system. If it's fuel injected you may need to pull the injectors and have them cleaned.If it's carburated you may have to get the carb rebuilt. If it fires up with the starting fluid you'll have your answer. If you can add some "fresh" fuel to the tank, as much as you can get in there to dilute the old gas that may help.

I'd also check and make sure you're getting spark, and check ALL the wiring, It's not impossible some "critters" got up under the hood and decided to make a home for themselves.They like to chew on wiring. Check the entire air intake as well for nests.It's a favorite place for them to settle in to your engine.

There's a product you can use if you store the vehicle on a regular basis called "Stabil" It's a fuel additive you put in before long term storage that prevents the fuel from gumming up the works.

We use it on our vehicles that get stored over the winter months. - Jim


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