How many more miles can I get out of a 2003 jetta gli with a vr6 motor that has 120000 miles on it?

Question 1
How many more miles can I get out of a 2003 jetta gli with a vr6 motor that has 120000 miles on it?...  And are these good cars to have?

Answers
1)   IF maintained good( to proper standards), any of today's car motors should be able to go 250,000 to 300,000 miles. - Poppy

2)   Impossible to answer. Could be another 1 mile, could be another 100,000 miles.

Look for a good service history. - vavavoom

3)   i have a 95 jetta gls it has 360,000 and i constantly fix it but it still runs and drives but has electrical problems still gets 30 miles to the gallon so i would definately buy a jetta again - Valerie

4)   The vr6 is a tank of a motor. Maintain it well and you will easily double that mileage with no major engine problems. - Nick


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Question 2
What do you think of the 2011 Jetta?...  Thinking about leasing one.

Answers
1)   Go for it, VWs are reliable cars now. We'll just try and forget about the mk4. - Nick

2)   I hopefully will be getting one next year and its a great car - Adnan

3)   Personally, I think its a step backwards for VW USA. I say this because the sedan has been built to a price point, not to a standard. For 2011, the sedan is using an old type chassis, similar in basic design to the MK4 generation, with a beam rear axle set up and rear drum brakes as standard equipment in the Base, "S" and SE editions (the rear drum brakes, that is). In order to get 4 wheel disc brakes, you have to buy the SEL edition, which starts at a MSRP of $21,000, a far cry from the starting base price of $14,995 + freight for a base edition sedan. And, don't forget that A/C and a radio are not available as factory options (though they can be dealer installed)on the base edition sedan with the base price of $14,995! To get the 2.5 liter, five cylinder motor, you have spend $3,200 more than the base edition sedan to get it... (the 2.5 liter, five cylinder motor was standard equipment on the 2010 base edition Jetta)

In addition, on the "S" and base sedan, the engine is the old and low powered 2.0 liter, non turbo four cylinder with all of 115 BHP! This engine has been around a long time and its not nearly powerful enough to move this vehicle with any kind of omph. Even the 2.5 liter, 5 cylinder with 170 BHP is no great shakes and on top of everything else its not a smooth running engine. At least the old 2.0 liter four cylinder is more willing to rev up, especially with the manual transmission.

The vehicle (sedan) has been "de-contented" in comparison to the 2010 edition; sure, the 2011 is larger and roomer, but its interior is cheaper, the chassis has been down graded ( no independent rear suspension, drum rear brakes in all but the most expensive trim levels) and options are pricey. FInally, although VW has gotten really good at the twist beam axle tuning, it doesn't ride or handle as well as the independent rear suspension used previously.

The funny thing is that the 2011 VW Jetta Sport Wagen is still on the 2010 chassis (2.5 engine standard, independent rear suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes etc) and is a much better vehicle all the way around.

At least the 2011 Jetta sedan will probably be reliable enough, but by the time you get it equipped to a reasonable level, it will priced a far cry from the base edition price of $14,995! - a car nut

4)   If we were ever to replace our 2005 Jetta we would likely buy a new Jetta.
In 05 our Jetta cost us $17k. Its been a truly trusworthy car. Thats why based on our current car, we would go for the new model.
The new 2.0 litre 'S' model is abt. $2k less than what we paid for the 05. Sure, it has fewer options, but most ppl could not tell the difference in actual driving between a rear drum setup or torsion beam vs. independent suspension.
We drove a 2011 Jetta, and it was great . Even with the 4 cylinder engine, it was enough for us.
With our beloved Jetta approaching 100,000 trusty miles, we were thinking of purchasing. In the end, we decided to keep Ol' Reliable for another few years. - fenton


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Question 3
Where can I find replacement hoods for a 1963 VW Beetle?...  

Answers
1)   do a google search for your local vw repair shop or vw restoration company and they should be able to direct you someone - Twister

2)   go on craigslist.com
a junk yard, ebay. thesamba.com - idk

3)   http://www.thesamba.com/vw/ - Gerry

4)   In my back yard.
Are you looking for the trunk cover (front) or engine cover (rear)
thesamba.com has an excellent classified section - Rod Knocker


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Question 4
I drive a 97 Volkswagen Jetta and my key will not lock my car?...  

Answers
1)   Insert key turn right. Or turn left depending what front door it is. If it has central locking (keyless), the battery could be dead, and need replacing and reprogramming, or the actuator has bit the dust. - djaca70

2)   The central lock is a vacuum system. If the key turns but it doesn't lock you probably have a leak. If the key doesn't turn you just need a new lock. Does the passenger side lock work?

A vacuum system repair kit can be purchased from ecstuning.com for like $16 or something.
You can get new door handles with lock and keys from germanautoparts.com for way cheaper than the dealer. - Nick

3)   sounds like the door eccentric has broken.... not hard 2 repace and really common on mk3's - mr VR6


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Question 5
how to change out the windshield on a 1972 vw beetle?...  do i need to cut out the rubber piece around the window to get the window out!

Answers
1)   My advise is to have a glass shop such as Safelite auto glass do the job for you. I know that the rubber is not to be cut, but a tool used to pry the glass out. With the vintage of your auto a new rubber will probably be needed. - Poppy

2)   That's the easiest way as the old rubber is so dried out you'll never get the new glass in with it, new gaskets are relatively cheap. I take it you've never done one before, humm.. all's I can say is be careful , Ive seen a lot of people break there new glass upon install, then they end up coming back to me to buy a new one and have me install it for $50 bucks. almost sounds cheaper in the long run doesn't it? heres some tips if your brave enough.
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw-1-0-9420.html - Buster

3)   do dont cut the rubber. you are going to need 2 people to do it though. get on the inside of the car and start working the rubber down from the top center with your fingers while pushing out on the glass near where you are pulling the rubber down. eventually the glass will start to push out at that spot. have a buddy on the outside to hold the glass so it doesnt fall. once you get in started its easy to come out, just work around from where you started.

putting it back in takes more patience and is harder. put the rubber seal around the glass in the groove it goes in. then you will need a long piece of 14 gauge wire. put the wire in the inside groove that the metal of the window would sit in.

actually its hard to explain....heres a video i found on youtube thats really good

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGMd0CrEQig - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)


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