How much would it cost to switch from a manual transmission to an automatic transmission?

Question 1
How much would it cost to switch from a manual transmission to an automatic transmission?...  I have a 2.8L 2000 Jetta VR6 and was wondering what it would cost to get it switched from a manual transmission to an automatic transmission? Appriciate the help.

Answers
1)   too much, manual is good (you have more control and better economy) or just sell a car and buy auto - Nancy

2)   It would be thousands, at least, even if it could be done in any practical way. Much cheaper to just trade it in and get an automatic version. - capitalgentleman

3)   well...
you need a fly wheel, torque converter, transmission, you may need a different drive shaft, cooling lines for your radiator, and maybe even a radiator. depending on what year vehicle it is you may need to change the computer on your car and add wiring. thennn, if you dont know how to switch it out yourself youre gonna have to pay to get it done.

..so, in the end you'd come out cheaper just buying or trading for an automatic. - ♫emjay

4)   WHAT??

There's more to it than just switching transmissions! You'll introduce more problems!

Forget it! Probably more than the vehicle is worth! If you want an automatic transmission then shop for a vehicle that already has one. - CommonSense

5)   The best way is to get a wrecked car exactly like yours & swap over all the parts need then try to resale the car to somebody else for the same money thereby costing you nothing.
Check the papers or a wrecking yard for the prices. - clncarplz

6)   Get on vwvortex.com.
Go the the Golf IV & Jetta IV parts forum
Find someone parting out a Jetta or Golf, doesn't matter.
Make an offer on the parts you need.

Remember you will need a few interior pieces as well and the seller should have a price listed but you can haggle a bit. It won't be cheap but it won't be expensive if you do the work yourself. - Nick


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Question 2
How to time a 1600 VW motor?...  i have a 1600 vw sandrail and i need to know how to time the motor without a mark, because the motor has an aftermarket pulley with no timing marks.

Answers
1)   well if you can spin off the pulley bolt you can see the woodruff key that should be strait up and there might be a mark on the inside of the 009 distributor showing #1 to help
you probably have the power pulley and the painted marks wore off - mykwilwin

2)   If you are starting from a rebuild then turn the engine until the #1 piston is at the top with both valves closed, Mark the pully where the crank cases meet, turn the distributor at the #1 wire. If everything else is OK it will start. Hold the rpms at about half throttle & advance the distributor until the motor runs the fastest. - clncarplz

3)   hahaha believe it or not, alot of bug engines used an offset slot for distributor drive.it was impossible to get em out of time.not sure if you havethis style distributor drive or not though,sorry. - idontgivafork

4)   The bug is static timed, if it is stock.
Try this link it seems to be the best I can find fast-
http://www.aircooledtech.com/timing/ - Old Man Dirt

5)   Hi, Here goes:
1) Get that pulley off & put on one w/a mark. Or a few marks. Or a lot of marks & degrees. But the most important thing to do is to get a GOOD pulley-the marks come second. But you need a pulley w/a mark on it-and the CORRECT pulley. Make sure you find out if that motors got a cam in it or not.
2) You're going to have to find out if the motors IS to be timed at exactly top dead center. It COULD be timed 4 degrees before top dead center! Or even two degrees!
3) You're also going to have to clarify what TYPE of distributor you've got. Not just the kind (mechanical advance, vacuum advance, etc.), but if it's a .009. Try to get a .009 distributor if you can. It will have ".009" on the outside of it if so.
4) One must make sure that the advance is working on the distributor. I'm gonna assume it IS, & I'm also going to assume it's a mechanical advance distributor & not a vaccuum advanced one (the vaccuumed advanced distributors have one or two little tubes sticking out of 'em on the side somewhere (which you can suck on really really hard & suck the points around).
5) Okay, set the points first okay? THEN do the timing. THE POINTS MUST BE SET.
6) Try to get the motor in top dead center. Find the #1 cylinder, remove the spark plug, and put a long screwdriver down in the hole. W/a crescent wrench on the alternator pulley, turn the alternator pulley so that the engine is turning (you'll see the fan belt turn & the crankshaft pulley turn). If they don't turn AND the nut comes off of the alternator pulley then ya' gotta take ooooffff the alt. pulley, remove a shim (or 2, or 3, or...), put the pulley half back on (w/the belt), & tighten down the nut. Make SURE that there's a half an inch of play in the fan belt k?
7) So you're turning the engine over & over right? (you may just want to make it easy & pull out ALL the spark plugs-just don't mix up the wires. Use tape & a pen to mark 'em where they go). The screwdriver will go up & down. One time when it's up it will be at top dead center during the compression stroke, one time it will be at top dead center during the exhaust stroke. Okay?
8) Remove the cap to the distributor. The engine is at the top dead center during the correct stroke when the rotor is pointing to oh....say....5 o'clock or so. Got it? The screwdriver will be up as high as it can go (the piston will be up as high as it can go) & the rotor will be pointed at approx 5 oclock or so.
9) Remove the screwdriver & put the sparkplugs back in. Put the spark plug wires back on.
10) Loosen up the distributor. Rotate the distributor so the liiiiitle line on the rim is getting pointed at by the rotor. You can spin the distributor from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock & back again for fun, just make sure that you take the little line & line it up w/that rotor pointing at it.
11) Turn the key to "on" but do NOT crank over the motor.
12) W/the cap off of the distributor, & w/you looking straight down at the distributor, your nose 12 inches from it, sloooly rotate the cap one direction & then the other to see a spark between the points. At that moment the motor is in TDC. Tighten down the distributor.
13) IS the motor SUPPOSED to be at TDC or 2' or 4' BTDC?
14) Buy "The Idiots Guide to Fixing your VW".

All this will get you in the ballpark & make the thing driveable, but you're really going to have to get a pulley that's a GOOD pulley. Watch out, bad pulleys can wear down & then you are in trouuuuble! - Madam, I'm...

6)   That's inconvenient. one answerer is right about establishing Top Dead Center and that has to be ACCURATE. You should use a dial indicator rigged down into the No 1 cyl - and yes both valves should be closed on power stroke - or your mark will be 180 off. I had a bug and i recall the timing setting at idle was to be about 6-8 deg BTDC (with vacuum hose disconnected. That was about 1/2 inch on the pulley rim. The distributor should have 30-35 degrees of centrifugal advance that will top out at 3000 rpm or so. You might have a vacuum "advance" if if there is a can on the distributor and a hose is hooked up. - Thomas E


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Question 3
I have a 1999 Jetta and it will probably die soon, I don't want another Jetta, any...?...  ...suggestions in what other cars?
I have put over 2000 work of work since I bought this car used a year ago, I put new o2 sensors, door locks, catalytic converter, new tires, new climate controller, new brakes. I love the car but enough is enough. I thought I had everything taken care of and then my airbag let went on. I am not doing any more work and will now drive it till it's dead.

No more Volkswagen for me. What other cars are similar to what I have? I cannot spend more than 10-15 grand and am looking for something that has similar features, sun roof, heated seats, 5-speed, leather... I am willing to be flexible but that is what I enjoy. Any suggestions on nice cars that I wont have any problems with and are well built and fun to drive?

Answers
1)   Ok, here is the deal. Those year VW were made in Mexico, anyone who know VW's will tell you, you either get a good one or a bad one. But honestly, you can't be too frustrated the thing is over 10 years old., how many miles are on it? I would bet a ton, or you need a new mechanic. not putting you down, but I know a some mechanics like to screw people over. VW parts are very inexpensive.
That being said. Honestly, the VW's are usually extremely reliable vehicles. The newer ones are being made in germany again. Also VW and Audi's are the only cars that get very good mileage, 31+mpg's. I don't think your 99 would get quite that good, but most 2003 and up do.

If I were you, I'd maybe sway away from the Jetta but not give up on the VW. An audi A4 would be an even better choice. You get the VW reliability and 31mpg's, but a nice package of a car all around.
I'm looking at the following in order.
Diesel VW any model 99-05. Slow, but 45-50mpg's!
05 up mini "regular" pre 2005, 5 spd and auto's had transmissin issues.
2000-05 Mini "S", NON of the 6spd mini's had transmission issue.
Audi a4 wagon or sedan. These are AWD with a 1.8 turbo. Almost always leather int.
"Gas" VW Jetta or passat wagon or sedan, can be had with AWD "fourmotion". Usually cloth but leather is available.
Subaru "anything", drawback, low to mid 20 mpg's. Parts are expensive and interior, unless it's leather feels cheap. - ouch

2)   I went on Kelly Blue Book's web site and looked up a few cars for you. There were two cars that stood out...
2004 Audi A4 Sedan (4 door) in excellent condition w/ about 45,000 miles would sell for approximately $15,545 (if sold by private party) 2003 BMW 330CI Coupe (2 door) in good condition w/ about 55,000 miles would sell for approximately $17,000 (if sold by private party) Both cars have what you are looking for... leather, 5 speed manual transmission, sun roof, etc. The reason that I suggested the Audi is because it is similar to the Jetta but much nicer. If you go to http://www.kbb.com/ you can play around and find exactly what you are looking for. I currently own an Audi, they run incredibly and are good on gas. I hope this was helpful. Best of luck. - Tanya

3)   Here's a list of comparable cars (don't mind the year, this is what is similar to your current car in class):

Other Comparable 4-door Compact Passenger Cars (Sedan): 1999 BMW 3-Series1999 BMW 5-Series1999 Audi A4
1999 Hyundai Accent1999 Honda Accord Sdn1999 Oldsmobile Alero
1999 Nissan Altima1999 Mercedes Benz C Class1999 Chevrolet Cavalier
1999 Ford Contour1999 Toyota Corolla1999 Hyundai Elantra
1999 Lexus ES 300 Luxury Sport Sdn1999 Ford Escort1999 Infiniti G20
Less Expensive 4-door Compact Passenger Cars (Sedan): 1999 Hyundai Accent1999 Daewoo Lanos1999 Dodge Neon
1999 Plymouth Neon1999 Kia Sephia1999 Saturn SL
1999 Hyundai Elantra1999 Ford Escort1999 Mercury Tracer
1999 Mazda Protege1999 Daewoo Nubira1999 Chevrolet Prizm
1999 Toyota Corolla1999 Chevrolet Cavalier1999 Subaru Impreza Sedan More Expensive 4-door Compact Passenger Cars (Sedan): 1999 Mercury Mystique1999 Ford Contour1999 Nissan Altima
1999 Oldsmobile Alero1999 Volkswagen New Jetta1999 Pontiac Grand Am
1999 Honda Accord Sdn1999 Infiniti G201999 Subaru Legacy Sedan
1999 Audi A41999 Mazda Millenia1999 Lexus ES 300 Luxury Sport Sdn
1999 BMW 3-Series1999 Volvo S80

This site also allows you do research how much to pay. If you want something reliable make sure you do NOT buy another VW or Mitsubishi, you can't go wrong with Honda/Toyota/Subaru.

Good luck! - untrue

4)   With a K&N air filter you can get over 40 mpg with the 4cyl automatic version. It still has plenty of power. I can zero to 60 mph very quickly and have no problems passing slower traffic on a two lane road. I have had the car up to 120 mph.

Trunk space is spacious. More room for long items can be made by lowering the rear passenger seats flat by releasing them individually into the main passenger compartment. The passenger compartment seats 4 people with comfort. I am a tall man (6’2") with wide shoulders and I find that the seats are very comfortable.

The base price for my 2006 was 24000 USD. When I added a GPS/CD pgk and a major warranty policy in boosted the policy to 30000 USD.

Some of the standard features that came with my car were: a moon roof, cruise control, AC, leather seats that tilt, automatic windows, electric adj. mirrors, seat warmers for cold days, and adjustable steering wheel,

I was impressed with the noiseless manner in which the engine changes from gasoline to electric motor. It is quite and "seamless". Once the electric motor is powering the vehicle, it is quite as death. The only maintenance I have had done is the regular oil and fluid changes every 5000 miles.

It is by far the best vehicle I have ever owned. I have owned VW, Chevy, Ford, Opel, Fiat, Mazda, Datsun, Toyota.

You get what pay for. If you have that much cash maybe you can finance the rest? or try the Prius. Or Forget the GPS/CD pgk. I do NOT think they come in a manual version due to the hybrid shift requirements.
You could easily make up the difference in $$$ in fuel costs over the life of the vehicle. - Leland Beas

5)   try an Acura. I've had two Integras for a total of 20 years now. Not a single unexpected thing has broken on either one! Gone through three clutches, a few CV joints, but those are normal wear items.


oh, i forgot,The brake calipers tend to rust up in our cold and salty climate, but a spot of grease fixes that.

Never even the slightest problem with engine, transmission, paint, bodywork, or electrical. - tiddled


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Question 4
What VW Golfs have a 4 wheel drive system ?...  I would like to know all the Golfs that have a 4 wheel drive system. Would it be able to list them for me ?
Is it just the ones with 4 Motion in their title or are there others ? For example the GT, GTI and so on

Answers
1)   All the models with 4 motion in their title. - Bazza

2)   Ultra rare 4WD Golfs -
Rallye
Country
Synchro -the first 4wd Golf - tali4569

3)   The only other non 2wd Golf isn't a Golf, it's an R32, and has AWD. - Nick

4)   Rallye, Syncro, 4 motion and R32. - L G

5)   All the ones LG stated plus the lastest model that goes by the name R - mr VR6


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Question 5
Jetta or Passat??????...  Im looking to buy either... which is faster? more powerful? gas milage? more comfortable? WHICH IS BETTER AND WHY! THANKS im looking for a 2000-2001.. thanks please include mpg city and hwy

Answers
1)   Jetta= Cheaper faster and better mpg about 25mpg cheaper made car
Passat= Heavy durable less mpg about 20mpg more comfortable - Mike

2)   jetta ftw! they are super cool. I used to own one and it never quit on me. - max

3)   passat has 22 mpg around town and 27 on the highway.
plus the passat looks better. - Yuli988

4)   B5 Passats and mk4 Jettas are probably the worst generations. I'm pretty sure they are both limited to the same top speed, most likely 127mph. The Jetta will have a better 0-60 time because it's lighter, but neither can be considered fast.

Get a mk5 Jetta. - Nick

5)   They are both "old hat" now on that year and the newer cars are much improved both in appearance and mechanically. I would opt for the Jetta which is essentially the Golf we have in Europe. US buyer's have a problem with VW cars as some are built "across the Atlantic" and are nothing like as good as the German built cars. If you can get either car that has been built in Europe you will be fine. They pretty much share the same engine and gearbox. The suspension differs as the Passat has a more complicated set up derived from and Audi A 4. They are prone to wanting an overhaul as the mileage gets towards 100k. I find the consumption figures baffling as I used to get 33 mpg from my 2.0 litre Golf and I would expect the Jetta to do likewise, perhaps your US gallon is smaller than the UK Imperial gallon ? - L G


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