Help identifying a car.?

Question 1
Help identifying a car.?...  http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y208/foughtwolf/4ae1859f.jpg

The round headlights make me think it's an 80's something vw as try remind me of the mk2 golf/Cabriolet.
If anyone knows, please chime in!
I thought there might be a chance it was a BMW, but it's lines are more in line with the vws of that age. So I went with what it had a better chance of being.
Jimann seems spot on. All the photos of 1978 131s look almost exactly like it.

Answers
1)   I'm pretty sure that's a BMW. - cato___

2)   I think the c piller looks more like a Fiat. I will guess a late 70's 131 - jimanddottaylor

3)   It's an E30 3-series BMW. - Richard R

4)   It appears to me it's an old BMW 5-Series of some sort. It's definitely bigger than a 3-Series. Bad looking car- in a really good way : ) - Rusty S

5)   bmw - Csr1


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Question 2
Would a Volkswagen New Beetle be a good first car?...  I'm turning 16 soon and I want to know how the Volkswagen New Beetle would be for a good first car. I would like to know how it handles, and how much maintenance it requires. I'm just looking for it to last me through high school, so I can give it to my sister and get a newer car. So yeah, please just let me know if it's a good first car :)
as long as I buy one that is 2000 or before, my insurance will not be a problem.

Answers
1)   oh - Mauricio

2)   You may wanna check on the cost of insurance first; since you're under 25 and not married so you are in one of the two highest insurance brackets (male is highest, female next).

My wife has a 2004 Bug, 1.8 turbo. I like it. Doesn't do too well in the wet and there have been some problems (all finally fixed) with the convertible top working correctly. Maintenance has been low and nothing unexpected.

Personally I would recommend something heavier; as a new driver you're going to have problems. Better to have them in a heavier vehicle than something very light (i.e. protection). - Daniel C

3)   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ghmy88Xl2L4 - Carly Clegg

4)   You also should compare car insurance quotes for cars before buying one, for example here - carquotes.fateback.com - Clay

5)   A New Beetle (or any VW) is a good choice for a firt car.
They don't rust much, are built for Autobahn-type safety, and
are fun to drive.

Whatever you do, being a fist time driver - stay away from japanese cars.
They are NOT safe in comparison to European or American cars...

Enjoy your VW!! - Red Peajack


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Question 3
Is it worth Buying a 1960's VW Bug?...  I'm a new driver, and I was wondering if it was worth buying a cheaper, old WV bug ($1,500-2000) just to put around the city in. Is it safe? Are parts available? Are they reliable cars? I don't want it to break down on me. Thank you!

Answers
1)   Nah, for a new driver, I wouldn't recommend it.

Parts? You can still buy engine parts easily. Reliable? If it's been cared for. Safety? Probably not even any seat belts in this car. Depends too on where you live in the US. Small town out West or down South? Maybe OK. Big city? No. Snowy place? No.

The best part about these cars is most problems can be remedied with a small screwdriver!

Keep it in mind and buy one for a summertime ride, then get something with airbags and anti-lock brakes. - sattore

2)   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ghmy88Xl2L4 - Carly Clegg

3)   You also should compare car insurance quotes for cars before buying one, for example here - carquotes.fateback.com - Brad

4)   Many will say it's not a good idea, others will tell you it an excellent idea. It depends on you. I'd highly recommend one to anybody, but it requires a special type of driver. For about $2K you're probably going to get a daily driver in not-so-good condition. Unless of course you come across a good deal, which certainly exist. For a reliable daily driver you'd want to pay upwards of $3K.

Reliability with an old VW can be anywhere from terrible to an absolute dream. It all depends on how well it was driven and taken care of previously. Like any classic. But the problem with the VWs is that up until the 90s people saw them as throw-aways that weren't worth anything, and drove them accordingly. Many things can happen to a car in 30 years. You will find gems that were well taken care of, which will be by far the most reliable car you'll ever drive. But if it was beat on, it will be a nightmare (until you replace all the over-worn parts). So to put it simply, before you get one, you should be at least a novice mechanic. You should have a mechanic really look over one you are interested in. I'm not trying to discourage you in any way, I'm just warning you that they're not all equal in mechanical condition. They were all extremely reliable cars before they were driven, and their current reliability all depends on how they were driven. Now, be prepared to make frequent adjustments and very minor repairs, even if it's in excellent mechanical shape. These things happen all the time, even when they were new. Once a week, give it a little check. Make sure everything's working the way it's supposed to. The beauty is that nothing is complicated. They are by far the easiest car on the road to work on.

If you pick up a Beetle in very good mechanical shape, be sure to maintain it well. It eats a little oil by design, which actually pro-longs the engine life, so check the oil level every now and then. Make sure everything's tight. Check the fuel filter, make sure it isn't dirty (they're cheap, like $1.99). Check to see if there are any oil leaks, you never know with a 40+ year old car. The window rubber may be original and rotted, so after a long rain make sure there aren't any leaks (especially check under the rear seat) that can cause rust. Just little things that you should check. As long as you keep your VW in good shape, it will be an extremely reliable car for decades to come. Remember, you still find a lot of unrestored, original VWs on the road. That's 30+ years of driving. They last forever.

You can get parts friggin anywhere. Auto Zone will have most of what you need. There are a tremendous amount of aircooled VW-only parts stores that will have every last thing you could ever need. The parts in general are very inexpensive. Cheaper than a Honda Civic.

Safety is really the only place where they come short. They're better than an 80s Golf (proven by crash tests), but without airbags or real crumple-zones, they aren't the safest car on the road. I look at it this way- they're a lot safer than a motorcycle. The low weight and crushability of today's cars helps. But people don't buy them because they're safe in an accident.

To simplify the whole deal, if you find one in good mechanical shape, 1 or 2 owner, and for a good price and are or know at least a novice mechanic, I definitely recommend it. Just be prepared to do little repairs/adjustments frequently, and it will last you a lifetime.


Also note: The insurance is extremely cheap. I was a new driver in CT paying $376 a year. Not a month, a year. Fire, 2x theft (2x value payout if stolen), collision. Unlimited miles. Insured for $10250. Extremely cheap insurance. - Aircooled Chick


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Question 4
What does the small quarter inch line do that comes off the fuel fill neck on 69 beetle?...  there is a small quarter inch line that comes off of the fuel neck on my 69 beetle and then dissapears in front of the fuel tank

Answers
1)   that should just be the drain hose that collects excess fuel. - Biff

2)   vent/otherwise the fuel cannot be pumped in - ken k

3)   It's a breather line so you can fill your tank. - Mike M

4)   It's just a vent tube. - '


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Question 5
How do u know if ur car is a 12v or a 24v? I own a 95 jetta GLX 2.8L?...  I have 95 jetta GLX 2.8L (pretty quick for stock car) and i was basically wondering how do u know if its a 24v or 12v because my friend was asking me about it and i have no clue and even less where it would say. Does anyone know?

Answers
1)   12v - Elisabeth E

2)   12v. In any case, look at battery, it's a single 12 volt one. - champer

3)   Bad way to phrase the question, but as it turns out you're alright. Your car is powered by a 12-VALVE VR6 engine and a 12VOLT electricity system.

Especially when talking about nice even numbers like 12 and 24, you should specify whether your V means Volts, or Valves. - Richard R

4)   Don't worry about the whole volt/valve thing. Anyone who knows anything about Volkswagens knew what you meant. Let me take a minute to teach you about the VR6 and what engine you have and don't have. This way, you can school your friend and make him feel like less of a person.

Prenote- The VR6 was originally available only in the Corrado and Passat. All VR6s are Dual Overhead Cam, single head, 12 or 24 valve enignes. The following is brief, to keep from overloading you.

MK3/A3 Body (your style/body) 1995-Early 1999
Engine Code AAA
12 valve head
170hp

MK4/A4 Body 1999.5-Early 2002, 2002.5-2004
Engine code AFP
12 valve head
174hp-need proof on that

Engine code BDF
24 valve head
201hp

If you would like anymore information on the VR6 and why it is an incredible, revolutionary engine just let me know.

Good Luck! - Rusty S


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