Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Preformance parts on a 2003 Jetta?

Question 1
Preformance parts on a 2003 Jetta?...  I just recently purchased a 2003 VW Jetta GLI, and i was wondering what would be the best preformace parts (i need brand names, be specific) to increase the acceleration.

Answers
1)   get a greddy turbo charger or twin turbo but boar the pitons and get better rods first or youll blow a hole in the block - Sierra

2)   Well you will want a K&N Cold are intake. A borla Exhaust.

Now if you want to go with power adders, Greddy turbos are good, Venom/NOS/Zex are always good brands. Neuspeed makes superchargers for your car. - sharkbait

3)   Get a TT or Neuspeed chip and a BBM cam, you need to look at the cam sizes on the website to see what set up you would be looking for. http://www.bahnbrenner.com/
I don't know how much your looking to spend to get more acceleration. Also K and N cold air intake,and a Magnaflow catback exhaust. - al

4)   aem cold air intake . i have one on mine . - dark choco

5)   The 03' GLI has a VR6 motor so none of the suggestions thus far are good. Bolt-ons will yield minimal gains in power and performance so don't go that route

Suggestions:

1) Build your suspension and brakes first. I would look for some coil-overs, a rear sway-bar to reduce understeer, VF endlinks and Dog-bone mount. You can get a good set of pads like Ferado's high performance street pad, slotted rotors and stainless steel brake lines.

2) Get some good tires. There are a lot depending on what your doing but some good companies are Toyo, Falken and Continental.

3. Once your car has good suspension, braking and handling you can start with the performance parts. I have a turbo VR6 and buying a kit was a mistake. They are never as advertised and the kit is now custom because of all the previous headaches with (Kit Parts) and mostly the tune. It's best to get a custom tune as the canned ones never run great. Each car is different. - DemonSpawn


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Question 2
My 2004 VW Golf has yellow sludge on the oil cap. Lube shop says it is moisture in the oil from lack of idling?...  

Answers
1)   I bet they are wrong. Most likely you have other issues going on. I'll bet coolant is getting in to crank case. At best, I would guess head gasket and it get worse from there. Cracked head or block. Sorry. My recommendation is engine flush and sell. - Mark

2)   Take it to a professional, it sounds like a considerable amount of water is mixing with the oil, a telltale sign of a bad head gasket. Your car is a bit new for that though, so it may possibly be considered a manufacturing fault. Ask the dealer you bought it from, but be aware that they may not want to take the blame. - Mr B

3)   it is moisture that condenses on the highest/coldest point. It is normal (yet annoying) to see this in VW engines. - cant_think_of_1

4)   You've maybe misunderstand them. This "mayonnaise" forms under the oil cap with engines that don't warm up enough, often through short journeys or excessive idling. Engines that get thoroughly warm rarely display this trait.

It's a mixture of condensation and oil mist. You may wish to check your thermostat is working properly and letting the engine warm up.

I'm assuming your coolant isn't disappearing - that together with the mayo could be the signs of a head gasket failing. - Bardic

5)   What engine is this?
Do you drive only short journeys or long journeys.
Has the correct grade of oil been used?
A yellow sludge is normal on vws that are only driven on short journeys due to a build up in condensation.
When the vehicle is driven on long journeys the engine reaches operating temperature for a long time burning off any moisture from the oil. If you still get sludge then you have a underlying problem possibly oil cooler or head gasket failure. - turboextreme


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Question 3
how many kilometers 068234 is in mileages?...  

Answers
1)   68234X2.2. OK? You can figure that out with a calculator. - w61earl

2)   62500 miles=100,000 KM approx - Erics Towing & Auto Sales Inc.

3)   68234 km is 42398.6 mi

68234 mi is 109811.98 km - AL M

4)   At 80K=50M
At60K=40M
so 70K is 45M there abouts?

1 mile =1.6km - the Horses Butt


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Question 4
How far will 85 cabbie go w/o alternator on new battery w/ no accessories on?...  Picking up an 85 cabbie today... yesterday it started up great and ran nicely while hooked up to jumper cables, but the engine dies as soon as the cables came off. This is definitely the alternator right?

I plan to pick this up today since I have a 93 cabbie with brand new lots of stuff and a destroyed enging. I havent gotten the alternator off the 93 yet since I just got the right size allen wrench and dont have a good pipe yet.

So, the plan is to drop a battery into the 85 and hope to make it home before the batt dies. Something like 30 miles. This is risky and stupid, yes, but my bro needs to get to work tomorrow.

what are my chances of making it home on just the battery.

Answers
1)   Slim. Get the alt fixed first. - uthockey32

2)   Take 2 (maybe 3) batteries so you can swap them out if you need to.

Don't use the radio, lights... etc.

Don't expect to make it on 1 battery.

The best solution is to get the alternator fixed first, and hope that's the problem.

Good luck - Tim

3)   You chances of doing are very slim at best; it will depend upon the quality and state of charge that the battery is in before you start off.

You will need to fully charge the battery to 100% capacity, the time that it will run the vehicle will depend upon its reserve capacity in minutes and how fast you drive with a minimum of stops.

Reserve capacity is based upon a new fully charged battery using a constant drain of 25? amps @ 80 f, with each cell maintaining a minimum voltage of 1.75 volts. Most new batteries for automotive use have a reserve capacity of at least 60 minutes and some batteries have more than 120 minutes.

If you have charged the battery fully to 100% and its fairly new, you might make the 30 miles before it rolls helplessly to a stop provided the temperature is warm, your driving a constant speed with no stops and no accessories are on. Realistically, I'd figure that your reserve capacity will 50% less than manufacturer's rating, whatever it is. The reserve capacity is based upon ideal situation of lab testing and is not realistic in the real world. Lower temperatures, higher electrical draw, stop and go traffic will drop the reserve capacity greatly and could make it as little as 10% of its original factory rating! That means that a battery rated at 120 minutes could only last 12 minutes (assuming of course that battery is charged 100% new and has an outside temp of 80 F.

If I were to do this, I'd at least have a back up a battery to take with me to carry when the other battery completely died. When the gauges start going crazy or it seems to sputter, pull over and change the battery now, otherwise you'll be stranded very quickly where ever you are. Drive the vehicle only during the daytime hours, at night the lights, defroster, heater will drain the power out of the battery very quickly.

You'd be better off to have a tow with AAA (get a Premier membership and you're allowed two tows of 100 miles each) and given that towing costs $15 mile here in the San Francisco area, the membership fee is still cheaper than a regular tow.

Your safety is paramount; trying to save money this way is foolish and fraut with potential problems and headache. Take the sure thing, avoid potential problems and have the vehicle towed.

Best of luck in whatever you decide to do. Hope this helps, a car nut. - a car nut

4)   If you are driving at night you will not make it. If you are driving during the daytime and you make sure the headlamps are not on you will likely be ok on the freeway. (less brakelights and turn signals).

But, to be sure, I would take spare battery or one of those jumper packages that contain cables AND a small battery.

good luck - ca_surveyor


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Question 5
i often dp i chnage antifreeze on a 2006 volswagen gti?...  

Answers
1)   Nice grammar and spelling, chief. Every two years, and make sure it is G12. Also, make sure there is no air in the system. - djaca70

2)   Technically speaking from a VW factory service schedule, the coolant is "life time," but as a practical matter, I would suggest replacement at 5-6 years regardless of milage for the first change/flush and every 2 to 3 years after that.

VW has not had a coolant change scheduled as part of factory maintanance requirements for nearly a decade or more. It is recommended by most dealerships and VW independent specialists that you replace the water pump when the timing belt or chain is changed and as a result of course, the coolant will be renewed.

Don't forget that if you have TPS (tire pressure sensors) that they require replacement after 6 years, by the VW factory service schedule.
And, every two years, regardless of milage, you change/flush out the brake fluid. This is extremely important on a VW with ABS as to avoid ccorrision in brake calipers and thus sticking caliper pistons.

Hope this helps, a car nut. - a car nut

3)   G12 is a lifetime fluid.

That being said... change it about 100K, when you change the timing belt & water pump. - cant_think_of_1


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