i need to convert a 1967 beetle to run on unleaded fuel how do i go about it?

Question 1
i need to convert a 1967 beetle to run on unleaded fuel how do i go about it?...  i know i'm going to have to convert it to be able to run on unleaded fuel i just need steps in the right direction to be able to do it

Answers
1)   NO FENCE Y WOULD U DRIVE DAT CRAP IN DA 1ST PLACE - Nissan-head

2)   Firstly you can get an addative to put in your tank of unleaded or its only the timing i think that needs adjusting not major work. - ricky

3)   as mentioned you can put an additive in the fuel tank with every fill up, Redex is a good make to use, but there are many out there to choose from, most of them are made in the same factory, they just have different labels on them.

the expensive way is to try and and get a "unleaded cylinder head" for the engine,it will include all the valves (it is the valves which need the lead to stop them from burning out) this can be quite expensive, depending on how long you plan to keep and run the car for, it might work out cheaper to do it this way than keep buying the additive i mentioned above.

for example

£250 for cylinder head
£10 for each bottle of fuel additive

that means after 25 bottles, its actually costing you more money to buy more bottles of additive, than it would have done to get the cylinder head replaced. - Yogi

4)   Step one go to gas station. step two remove gas cap. step three fill with unleaded. step four replace gas cap. all done.

Congratulations you've now converted it to unleaded. - wvparanormal

5)   buy high octane
buy octane booster
make your own octane booster

nothing more easy my old car runs fine on it - kelly_f_1999

6)   Here is the link to an article about that. http://www.reluctantmechanic.com/q-a/volkswagen-unleaded-petrol.php The timing issue and knowing if you have the steel valves are the 2 critical things.

If you have a ping or knock:
Timing is a simple thing to do on a VW. Start the engine, loosen the distributor bracket and turn the distributor to adjust the timing. Retard the spark a few degrees and then tighten and test drive. Repeat until it runs smooth without knocking. http://www.aircooledtech.com/timing/static/ explains how to static time your engine and http://www.aircooledtech.com/timing/strobe/ explains how to "strobe" set it with the engine running. The second also explains how to retard the spark if pre-detonation (knocking) happens.

If you have doubts about the valves, (I haven't found any replacement valves that weren't at least as good as stock when rebuilding) you might invest in a complete valve job. I usually use the after market stainless steel ones designed for high performance bug engines. (racing, dune buggy, etc.) They aren't expensive, but the labor can be if you don't know how to do it yourself. Here is a listing for complete heads if you find the old ones need extensive work after removing them from the engine. This is what I recommend as they outlast stock by a bunch. http://www.jcwhitney.com/STREET_PRO_PERFORMANCE_HEADS?ID=12;0;1101007635;0;100006;ProductName;11;0;0;0;2005480;true;0 Note the prices are EACH and you'll need 2. J.C. Whitney (the company I linked to here, has a complete section of their on line catalog devoted to the old air cooled VW's.) A Google search will find many more suppliers, but I've had good luck here for quality and price.

I'd recommend buying a Chilton or Haynes repair manual for your VW and follow the step by step (w/pictures) instructions. Pay special attention to the removal sequence for the head bolts as taking them out in wrong order can warp and ruin the heads. Same goes for putting them back on. Read the list of tools needed before starting the job as not many home mechanics have tools like valve spring compressors. (Nice to have and not very expensive if you plan to maintain your VW. A large "C" clamp can be used in a pinch, but the actual tool makes things much easier.) Note that there are also some nice to use replacement parts carried by Whitney like spring loaded push rod tubes. They make it easier to work on the push rods and make reassembly much easier. The most common problem with replacing the heads is getting all of the push rod tubes to seat properly and NOT leak oil all over the engine!

Be advised that it is quite probable that your engine is not the original one that came with the car. It should be a 53 hp, single port 1500cc, with a serial # starting with an "H" but that isn't saying it is. I'd recommend finding the engine serial number (located on the rear engine flange under the generator mount.) http://www.lightner.net/ybdb/serno.html will tell you the year of your engine and http://www.bugsandbuggies.com/QuickRef.asp gives the size/hp rating. Note that anything before the 1971 engine was single port. Dual port heads can be used, but require a different intake manifold. - dallenmarket


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Question 2
Should I get a new deck for my Passat?...  I have a 99 V6 Passat and it still has it's stock Monsoon radio in it and it works perfect it is amazing. The bass and treble are awesome. The thing is it dosen't have a CD player in it and I did have a iPod that connected via tape and it had nice audio and worked just fine. But someone stole that iPod and I have no CD player.

The thing is I'm thinking about getting a new deck but I'm not sure if it is a good move. The CD player would be awesome but I'm not sure what I should do.

Answers
1)   yepp - Ali

2)   yea you need a deck the cassete adapter doesnt transfer all the frequencies so you will never get true sound from your device. get a new deck with the usb adapter or aux in, and cds so you dont always have to use your ipod. - Policy

3)   Having a 99 v6 passat is a top-notch idea - Evie

4)   You can get the CD changer from the dealer, or check out vwvortex.com. It is a simple plug and play. - djaca70


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Question 3
10 year old VW Polo doesnt start in the cold weather?...  especially when i havent used this for a couple of days. I always have to have it jump started and then its fine. I thought it was the battery and had this changed 3 times last year and through the summer this was fine but now the weather has got cold it has happened again.

Answers
1)   It must be the connection to the battery or something. Something is draining it. Take it to be checked out. Maybe you got a cr*p replacement battery? - ★ʂʈar☆

2)   They're renowned for it. I had one and so did my friend. They're good otherwise though. - Buddha

3)   Get the alternator checked as if it is putting out too much voltage it will fry the battery. A battery should last years on any car unless there is a problem with the charging system. But once that is fixed it will be as good as new. - who_is_jack_shit

4)   If you have checked for parasitic drains, and there are none.
Then replace your battery cables, both the Positive and the Negative.

Negative from Battery to the Frame and then from the Frame to the Engine. Also replace the positive cable from the battery to the starter.

A battery cable that is resistive on the Negative side will drain the battery as it is allowing current flow as the Negative lead on the battery is more positive than the frame on a internally corroded cable

Had a similar condition on a car a few years ago. - Briano


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Question 4
performance parts for volkswagen polo 1.3 95 where do you get them from?...  i am looking for performance parts for my polo i don't mean tacky rubbish out of halfords and motorworld i mean like
camshafts,
cams,
inlet manifolds,
exhaust systems,
suspension kits

because i typed them in many search engine and all they comes up with is webs site with cheesy chrome gear knobs which is not what im looking for

Answers
1)   Might struggle for that particular age of car, but for all VW tuning I'd recommend http://www.venommotorsport.com/, if they don't have it on the site give them a ring. - Will

2)   type
performance parts for volkswagen polo
performance camshafts volkswagen polo
performance exhaust systems volkswagen polo - kelly_f_1999

3)   Got to think is it worth it with a car that old unless engine is reconditioned or in real good shape
There is alot of shit out there, what could try is demontweeks - dylandk201

4)   It is too old for anyone to be making stuff for it now. They are paying people money to scrap cars 5 years younger than that. - Timbo is here


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Question 5
how can i make my mk4 gti faster?...  i jus got a 01 gti in good shape its pretty much stock. but i wna make it lil bit faster dan it is. wat should i put into it first?

Answers
1)   Jato engines come to mind as well as Turbine engines Hard to argue with 25,0000 pounds of thrust.

Look to purchase a header / K&N filter, and have the ECU chipped.

More costly is Turboing it or placing a bigger Cat Back Exhaust. - Briano

2)   Could get the ECU remapped professional job or superchipped.

If not going down the turbo route then coming in ie cold air inlet so upgrading standard filter for a vector cone ie k and n, better performance and economy nicer sound
Coming out exhaust system for vw maybe scorpion, manifold center and back box.
That is for quick mods nothing over 500 to 600 pound
Cant think how much all that turbo work will cost but alot and it has to be done in stages as its not just turbo its everything else intercooler oil pumps, etcetc. - dylandk201

3)   cold air does NOTHING ona 1.8t. get a chip it will make your car nothing like what your car is now. about 45 more hp and 50 pds of tq. you will NOT be disappointed - Ryan M

4)   i agree CAI don't to much on alot of cars except suck SMALL particles of dirt in...anyway it would be nice to know which motor. For you to get a better awnser! - veedub514


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