did vw passat 2007 is good...?

Question 1
did vw passat 2007 is good...?...  want to know....

Answers
1)   yeah its fair car bu u could try for examle Almera from that year - Sandy Money

2)   hm..its good... - Yash

3)   Yes is is very Good!!! - veedub514

4)   yeah.. not bad.. better than the camry.. - v240r

5)   well volks is good but if it with same price of mitsubishi pajero you chould buy 4 wheel i think - Omar


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Question 2
is there a website to specifically show engine of a 68 vw bus with all engine parts labeled?...  thanks

Answers
1)   Prob not, but a much better source is to buy one of the old 'how to keep your volkswagen alive forever' or something like that. THey are about an inch thick, cover all of the volkswagen repairs and are worth their weight in gold if you own any type of classic volkswagen.

Much better then a computer since you can drag them under the car or toss them on your work book and mark them up.

.. - ca_surveyor

2)   Try; johns import auto located in Vancouver Washington.Not sure of actual e-address. - sandmaster

3)   Look on thesamba.com in the talk forums. Someone there will have what you are looking for. It is a GREAT VW web site.
The Idiots Guide to Complete VW Repair is a great manual too - Rod Knocker

4)   www.chirco.com not sure if it is exactly what you are looking for but they have tech blogs and videos as well as most any VW part. - Hey You


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Question 3
71 VW Sandrail backfiring and spitting. I need professional help!?...  71 vw sandrail with 1835 air cooled 4 cyl. MSD blaster 2 coil, weber 44 carb. I had a ignition problem but fixed it with new points (set to .016), cap, rotor. it fires on all four everytime now. I adjusted valves to .006 in. the timing is set what makes it run the best( about 30 to 35 BTDC) I inspected the plug wires in the dark and didnt see any arking.
What its doing now cold or hot, when i floor it fast, it hardly hesitates and revs fast no problem. when i slowly ease the throttle, it does not hesitate at all and revs up no problem. but its when i give it like quarter throttle is when it hesitates, backfires, and spits out the carb!!!??? as the rpm get higher it stops!! Please help
thanks
eric

Answers
1)   sounds like maybe a wires are crossed - pat g

2)   if your sure the ign. timing and cam timing is correct then it might be the carb. is not adjusted properly. possibly dumping to much fuel in a part throttle condition. also check that the bowl float isn't stuck causing it to flood at closed or part throttle. - busted knuckles

3)   I see two possible sources.

1) Your fuel system may have an issue: Check your carb. When you floor the carb. it gives an extra squirt of gas into the throat to get it moving and this may be enough to overcome the slow and shaky actions that you get with gradual acceleration. Try some carb cleaner to see if you have a bit of cr*p in there. It could also be that the jet on the carb has clogged. If either of these is the case consider how the dirt got there (air cleaners ok?) to avoid future and more expensive problems. Worst case you will need a new carb, but its an easy job to swap out the webbers for an older but good one to check the theory first if you have an old one around.

2) Ignition: Your main coil or the one in the distributor may be going out. Under load it is just fine but it studddddders at slow speed.

As a side thought it might also be a fuel pump. At slow speeds it could not be delivering enough pressure.. at higher speeds the carb's vacume helps pull the fuel in.. but a good see-thru fuel filter will tell you that.

hope this helps

. - ca_surveyor

4)   Sounds to me like the card needs to be cleaned and adjusted and/or the fuel pump is going out.

I spent a weekend in Glamis with my Manx many years ago and it had what sounds like a similar problem. It would rev up and sounded great when it was stopped. When i was driving it, it would start to sputter and cough. I would stop and it would clean out........I spent all weekend pulling the carb apart and cleaning it after every drive. It would help (so I thought) for the first minute or so of driving. Ended up the fuel pump was a little weak and couldn't keep the fuel pressure high enough to keep up while on it. I realize you said yours is doing it at 1/4 throttle when you ease on the throttle, but maybe the fuel pressure is not enough to keep it running smooth at a constant 1/4 throttle.
I have always been told to run a Bosch Blue coil on air cooled VWs. They work the best and I have tried other without good luck. - Rod Knocker


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Question 4
1978 Vw Bus/Vanagon Oil Leak?...  I am looking at a 1978 Vw Bus/Vanagon on ebay and I found one close by and the only thing wrong with it is, it has an oil leak on the engine. I already asked the seller and he/she said it would be able to be fixed just by replacing a gasket. But since I am not vastly familiar with these vehicles I was wondering wut kind of gasket I would be needing... heres the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180416273787&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT Just kinda respond fast..only has a few days left.... just kinda wanna know if it'd be worth the purchase or if the damage looks too extensive.... thanks

Answers
1)   Hi, it's very hard to diagnose an oil leak on here but most oil leaks on a 2.0 aircooled are from rubber seals so I would have thought the most common gasket to leak are the valve cover gaskets, they're easy to replace if they are the problem. The valve covers are held on by clips and have cork gaskets sealing them. Cleaning the face of the valve cover and cylinder head, fitting new gaskets with some sealant would sort it.
The only other paper gaskets I can think of are the mechanical fuel pump which is on the right hand side of the engine towards the gearbox but it's usually a faulty fuel pump leaking oil. The gaskets which seal the cylinders to the crankcase are the other. Which is a huge job to fix. - Paul

2)   oil leaks can be fixed in a variety of ways.. they all depnd on what is leaking. It can be as simple as tightening a screw or nut - like on the oil filter/drain housing to a complex one that requires pulling the engine out - like the rear main seal.

You need to let us know WHERE it is leaking.. If you are not sure yourself, take the car down to a do-it yourself car wash and, with a can of engine degreaser, clean the engine off with the pressure washer..

Then pop the distributor cap, dry it out inside and drive it around until the leak shows up.. THEN you will know what needs to be fixed./ - ca_surveyor

3)   Where is it leaking from?They are notorious for valve cover leaks.If that is the case,$10 will fix you up.And you can do it yourself easily. - sandmaster

4)   Buy it, then buy The Idiots Guide to Complete VW Repair. It is the best service manual EVER. It will take you step by step through almost every problem a VW can have.

ALL air cooled VW engines leak out of the rear main seal, valve covers or push rod tubes. I wouldn't worry about an oil leak, just check the oil every time you put gas in it. - Rod Knocker


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Question 5
What type of oil should i put in my 2008 Volkswagen Passat TDi?...  The manual suggests the VW507.00 oil (the only one which goes in both filtered and unfiltered engines) but I only have a choice of Castrol at the garage anyway...

Answers
1)   You NEED to use the 507-safe oil on this car. The weight is 5W-30, and mobil 1 has a 507 label for that weight. - Travis Gunter

2)   Under the terms of the VW warranty, you must use an approved oil that meets the 507.00 specification. This specification is for diesel motors that use "Pumpe duse" (PD)injection type system on the diesel and the oil is designed to prevent wear to the diesel injection pump.

As it is, I know only the oil at the dealerships and Catrol Edge 5-30 (that says on the label that it meets 507.00) and Motul VW specific oil meet this requirement. The Mobil 1 ESP also meets this requirement (it must say meets VW/Audi 507.00 on the label) might be the easiest to find.

VW has been very strict about oil usage in dealing with warranty claims on motors and injection pumps. You must be able to prove that you've used the correct oil and filters to meet the factory requirements, failure to prove this beyond a reasonable doubt is reason enough for VW to reject a warranty claim.

It maybe more expensive, but either get dealer supplied parts or have the dealership change the oil. You might save a few dollars (yen, euro's or whatever), but all of that will go to naught if you have a failure of a otherwise covered item.

So that you know, according to Mobil's own specifications, 0-40 european formula DOES NOT MEET VW-Audi specification 507.00~! Their listing on specifications show that only Mobil ESP meets this specification.

Hope this helps, a car nut. - a car nut

3)   Castrol 5w40 Syntec or Mobil 1 0w40. There are others but these are the ones I use and they meet all requirements of the VW warranty. - IKE


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