first car , a classic VW Beetle. good or bad idea?

Question 1
first car , a classic VW Beetle. good or bad idea?...  I like the 50's Beetles. The ones with the oval window in the back. What's everyone's opinons on them ?

I'm turning 21 in a couple months. I have yet to buy my first car. Things have been tough with the economy and all that's been going on.

I'm looking for answers from people who own a old bugs. Is it a good idea ?

Answers
1)   i see you plan on being a mechanic,since that is a very high maintenance machine.if the motor isnt updated, it doesnt even run crank bearings, the crank just nests in the block saddles if i remember correctly.as for budget that is 1 expensive bug to purchase, and chances are the only fixer uppers you find will either be gutted, or rough running condition and still be really expensive.the plus side, 1 in good condition goes for some serious change. - idontgivafork

2)   I agree with the first responder- "Oval Windows" look great and have historical value but are hard to find and expensive to buy and maintain.
If you're looking to get a Beetle, I'd suggest a "late model," 1970-74.
They're still relatively cheap, easy to work on and many parts both "stock" and aftermarket custom are available and easily swappable between model years.
Have someone who's knowledgeable about VW's with you or study up on what to look for in a used Bug prior to even going out and looking.
It's a great first car- I know MINE was and I still own one decades later!
Good luck! - tennisballeddie

3)   If you are in technical school to be a mechanic, go for it. You'll get lots of practice.

I have a 74 and love it and have had a Beetle since the 80's, but wouldn't dream of trying to depend on it for actual reliable transportation. Grocery getter, weekend fart around car, great. Have to be to work on time vehicle.... hahahaha. - Jay S

4)   The only bug cooler than an oval window would be a split window.
I would recommend a VW Bug as a first vehicle. They are great cars and easy to work on. Once you learn how to maintain it, you will spend less than an hour a month keeping it tuned up.
I drive my 1973 VW type 181 (Thing) roughly 40 or so miles a day with no problems. I have also owned many bugs and squarebacks too. I love the air cooled VW.
If you do find an oval window, depending on what you want to do with it, you can install a '70s dual port engine in it for a lot more power with minimal work. - Rod Knocker

5)   http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ Get ready to drool and write a big check - convexed

6)   My brother in law has an oval, 57 I think. I'm told it's really hard to see out that tiny window and that makes it difficult to drive.
I think you should go with a 60s model since the windows are bigger and they tend to be less expensive. - Angel70

7)   Well if your goal is the oval style, bring money. Those command high prices as a collectors car.

If your goal is just a beetle.. its a good choice from my point of view.

1) Classic car with a value that INCREASES but is still affordable
2) Easy to work on and maintain. Even the entire engine can be pulled in about 30 minues and one beer.
3) I lacks the newer gadgets, but for just getting around it is all you need. Toss on a roof rack and it will handle MORE tasks then a sedan sometimes
4) Its short on the newer safety features, airbags and such.. you have to be willing to live with that.
5) No body dislikes a beetle. I make MORE new friends with mine.. people who stop me to tell me stories of THEIR old beetle or share a cup of coffee on Saturday morning with some really good tales.
6) Cheap to operate .. even the registration is about as cheap as you can get.

and so on.... - ca_surveyor

8)   A Volkswagen Bug is a great first vehicle. My first car was a 67 Volkswagen Squareback. If you do end up getting a Bug, you should go with a 69 or later because they have the independent rear suspension and already have the 12 volt electrical system. My every day car is a 72 Super Beetle and I drive that thing 80 miles every day, to and from work, in Arizona summers. If you build it right and give it a little TLC, she'll run for a while. - John


___________________________________________________

Question 2
Can I put brake fluid in my car (VW Polo) or do I have to take it to a garage?...  It's my first car and I don't know much about it yet! The light comes on when I start the engine and I looked in the manual and it says this means the brake fluid is low and I need to take it to a garage to get it topped up, or words to that effect.
Basically do I have to take it to a garage or is it simple enough to buy some break fluid and do it myself. I don't know much about cars but I'm not totally thick so if it's easy enough to do then I'm sure I'll manage it!

Answers
1)   Buy some brake fluid from a car parts shop. Consult your manual as to where it goes (in the engine compartment - it will go in a plastic "bottle" with high and low markings on the side.)

It's a very simple job you can do in about 5 minutes. - Max Headroom

2)   as Max above says, is correct , you should actually make a check on the brake fluid each week to be on the safe side. - john313181

3)   Open the bonnet and there is a plastic container normally on the drivers side near the bulkhead (windscreen panel) unscrew the top and there is a line on the cylinder for the correct level.You need to buy universal brake fluid to top it up don't use engine oil.Sometimes the light comes on when the brake pads are worn down or the handbrake is still on - Arlanymor is back

4)   Sure you can; just be sure to buy the right type. The label should specify something like DOT 3. The store should be able to help you, and your owners manual will tell you what you need.

Add it carefully, and stay between the 'min' and 'max' marks on the reservoir; try not to spill any, since it can damage the paint. - David

5)   Do it yourself - just nip along to Halfords and make sure you buy the correct grade - check in your handbook ( could be dot4 or dot5 or silicon - they don't mix) - staff at Halfords will assist you to get the right one - then just pour in the fluid to the reservoir. simples! - cunny

6)   Its a very simple job.. not much more then pouring some thing from a bottle into another bottle.

Two things to be aware of..

1) Brake fluid is caustic to paint so if you spill a drop or two on a finished paint surface, clean it up with soap and water promptly.

2) Brake fluid should not need to be 'added' very often. If you have to keep adding it you need to look for where it is going since its not like gas or oil.. it does not get 'used up'.

You may want to buy a basic 'how to' book for your car so you can do other basic maint. like change the air filter, or check the transmission level. All pretty basic and usually quite easy.

. - ca_surveyor

7)   The light is supposed to come on when you start it. It should then go off as soon as you release the handbrake and pull away. If it stays on it could mean a few things
1. The handbrake is not all the way down to the floor
2. The handbrake switch is faulty
3. The BRAKE fluid is low
4. The disc pads are worn past limits and need ro be replaced
You can top it up yourself if it is low as long as you know which reservoir to top up, clean everything around it fully before removing the lid, use the correct of 3 different types and do not fill it past the Max mark.
Use fluid only from a small unopened container and discard it when you have topped up as it is useless after being opened. Brake fluid is corrosive and is great for stripping paintwork so be carefull with it and discard carefully and cloths you spill or wipe any with. - Timbo is here

8)   The warning light comes on for a few seconds as a self test. If it remains on whilst driving the car it is a genuine warning. As you have the handbook - read it. It will show you where the brake fluid reservoir is located under the bonnet. Look at the side of the reservoir. There will be max and min markings. If you wiggle the car to make the fluid move a bit it is often easier to see the level. You should maintain the level at, or very near, max. It will drop very slowly according to brake pad and lining wear. Once a month should be ample to check it unless you do very high mileages. DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid is ok to use. Do not spill it on the paintwork though as, unfortunately, it can cause a permanent mark. Something they haven't bothered to resolve yet! - BARRY B


___________________________________________________

Question 3
Bubbly box looking car?...  What's the name of the box car? It kind of looks like this - http://z.about.com/d/cars/1/0/L/u/ag_08xb_rightfront.jpg


but a little cuter and rounder and the windows are weird and stuff.

Answers
1)   Nissan Cube?? - Brian

2)   kia soul?

http://www.carslash.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/2010-kia-soul-001.jpg - vtecnique

3)   It is a Csion Xb by Toyota - Barney

4)   maybe the jetta or the beetle - truly speaking

5)   If you are looking for a Volkswagon, I think you may be talking about the GTI, the Tiguan or the Touareg.

The one pictured is a Scion, in which case you might be searching for the xD. Not sure which one is the most box looking, bubbly, round and cute! - David Andrew

6)   The VW box car is called the "Up!". Currently, it's a prototype (not in production yet). - j_teague68


___________________________________________________

Question 4
my 2001 jetta over heats wat could be wrong with it?...  

Answers
1)   Most likely a thermostat, and hopefully not a blown headgasket. - Travis A

2)   low on fluid or the thermostat is defective - Justin P

3)   it could be a blown head gasket or the thermostat or the thermostat housing as well alot of them are plastic and slowly melt over time I had that happen once before then again it could also be coolant levels or if its leaking coolant hope this helps - wolv3rine06

4)   Thermostat, water pump, coolant temp switch, plugged radiator, low on coolant because the tank leaked, the cap is bad and not holding pressure. All but the last are very common VW problems the last very seldom happens. - uthockey32

5)   I had the same problem recently with my volkswagan, i tried everything, a new radiator, flushing the system, a new thermostat, the only thing i didn't change was the water pump.
The problem was that the hot water would only get to the top cornor of the radiator and that was it, the water wouldn't flow through the system, but the heating matrix would get very hot, more so than it ever should.
Because i changed the thermostat for a brand new one, i assumed it couldn't possibly be that, but after weeks of driving me and my mechanic crazy he removed the thermostat and the problem was solved instantly, and the flow of water returned.
Now the engine doesn't overheat at all, in fact its cooler than it ever has been, the only down side isthat the in car heaters take longer than before to get hot, but i this this is a small price to pay for my engine being intact. - Carl


___________________________________________________

Question 5
Have repair question on a 1970 VW bus (Transporter)?...  I have a '68 Beetle with a '70 bus engine and the engine is not turning over. A friend of mine isn't sure why it won't start, but said that replacing the distributor cap, points, and rotors is a good place to start (there is a small crack in the distributor cap and he says the points are worn (or burnt? I can't remember EXACTLY what he said)

Anyway, I went on a web site to order the parts, and now I'm confused. I picked the right cap because it looks just like the old one, but do I need 1-part or 2-part points? How many points and rotors do I need? Here is a link to my shopping cart... I just want to make sure I'm buying the right parts for the job.

http://www.europartsdirect.com/cart.asp

In case the address doesn't work, here are the part #s: Bosch New Style Distributor Cap BSH007334, Bosch 1-piece Points (QTY 5) BSH 006102, Bosch New Style Rotors (QTY 5) BSH 031172. And, of course, I also bought a Manual - lol!

Answers
1)   Shows you why you got to take the old parts in(so they can eyeball them)so you get the right stuff.. 1 rotor. That goes for any part on any car. - the Horses Butt

2)   You said it "won't turn over". My definition of that is that the engine isn't moving at all when you turn the key. That tells me to check: battery, starter solenoid, starter, ignition switch.

Is the engine turning but won't fire up? Or is it just dead and still when you turn the key? - Jay S

3)   1 rotor, 1 cap, 1 set of points (I would go with electronic ignition so you never have to adjust points again) You should also buy a new condenser (if you stick with points)
Looks like you are buying the correct parts. - Rod Knocker

4)   What they are asking is if your old points are 1 piece or 2 piece points as a 1968 could have either set. If you do not know have some one who does take them out. You do not want to be trying to send back parts its a pain. Everything is just one of each if you have the older style 2 piece point set they come as one set the newer style the 2 pieces are already together. Also are you sure it has a stock distributor very common to have replaced the distributors in older VW's - uthockey32


___________________________________________________