2003 VW beetle Engine smoking?

Question 1
2003 VW beetle Engine smoking?...  My 2003 VW beetle was working great until this morning. I tried to start it and i made a clicking sound(as if the battery was dead) I tried to have some one jump me but the charge would not last. I got the car to start but it shut off seconds later. My dad tried to start the car over and over and over again and finally the last time it started to smoke. What is the Problem? Need help

Answers
1)   take it to a garage - Damian

2)   Get a new car? (: - bilem3

3)   Go see a mechanic - sounds like an electrical fault. Get the battery checked. Check your oil. - Cyberia C

4)   YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE SLUDGE INTAKE, when the gas goes to your air filter it heats up and makes the intakE valve smoke fro the radiatior water take it to pepboys they replace the valves for under 250$ - robert

5)   If it wasn't for the smoke, I'd say It could be your alternator. That would be the best case scenario for you. Not too expensive to fix

We need to know where the smoke is coming from and what colour it is (black or white) - The Jamester

6)   As soon as a car starts the charge will last "if the alternator works". Yours does not because your battery is dead. And it will not stay running.
What is smoking? I am guessing you are burning up the starter(another big cost that was not needed) It didn't start. Enough already. You knew the starter worked. That is probably fried now. So you are looking at starter motor( a rebuild will do), alternator repair and battery. If you are in the habit of jump starting other cars"using jumper cables" if you hook the cables up to your battery and if the other end gets cross connected or they touch together for even a micro second you blew the diodes in your alternator. It will not charge fully if at all. It needs repair. And it seems it has not been doing its job(and that is to keep your battery fully charged.) Wal~Mart can confirm the diagnosis. - the Horses Butt

7)   aw sh - I need to sneeze


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Question 2
Do I have a blown head gasket?...  I have a 2000 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 AEG engine. I have a check engine light on with 9 code all relating to grounds in the engine. I also have yellow/milky/buttery substance on my oil filler cap. I work at a garage and they all said that the substance is oil and coolant mixed together resulting in a blown head gasket. There is also a strong force of air coming out of the oil filler hole which has never happend before this. the car has 116,000 miles on it.
the oil was just changed this week and looks normal still... there is none of the milky substance on the dip stick just the filler cap.... what expalins the air pressure coming out of the filler cap as well?
is it worth fixing? how much would it cost and how does this happen?
I also am not losing and coolant out of my resevouir so and i dont have any white smoke in my tail pipe. just the symptoms i said earlier

Answers
1)   Based on your description of your situation, it is possible you have a blown head gasket or even a cracked head. Coolant mixed together with oil indicates this. - Matt

2)   yep a head gasket. will have water in your oil too - JimT

3)   if you have a blown head gasket, one other thing has to be present.
You should be getting white smoke (alot) coming from your tailpipe when the engine is running.
It seems that there is water mixing with the oil. Check you dipstick. If it's a milky color instead of normal brown-black. then, you got problems. - Alfonzo

4)   you have just described the classic blown headgasket.
at least you work in a garage and your workmates made a 100% correct diagnosis.
due to the air coming out the filler you may also have a cracked tappet or a hole in one of the pistons.
you need to have to rebuild the engine,the top part at least. - the mysterious stranger


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Question 3
My jetta smells like crayons. I just bought a 2001 jetta and it reaks like melted crayons.?...  I understand that the crayon smell isn't really crayons and it has to do with the wax they put on the metal to prevent it from rusting. The smell is there all the time weather the car is on or off. Is there any way to get rid of the smell without spending alot of money? Please help . The smell is driving me nuts.

Answers
1)   i would bet that you have a shoping bag melted to the exhaust pipe. - iceman681

2)   Just buy an air freshener. You are putting way too much thought into this, it's an obvious answer. - ~♥_♥~

3)   That's probably what someones kid pushed down the defroster ducts, air conditioner louvers. I'd break-up some Hall's Menthol Eucalyptus's into little pieces drop some pieces into the defroster ducts run the heater & Pray
Good Luck - Mike F

4)   YAY! I'm not the only one! I like the smell! Get used to it I don't think you can do anything about it. By the way trade it before you run into repairs these cars are horrible. Buy Febreze auto effects it smells really good, and usually covers it up. - nnik


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Question 4
vw passat leaking issue ?...  i own a 02 vw passat n couple weeks ago i found that the car was leaking water inside de car somehow, all this water was flooding my carpet n messed the electrical system, so i took it 2 the dealer n they charged me $1500 dollArs to unclogged the sunroof drains n for a new control unit for the electrical issue plus $100 to clean the carpet, so the cAR seen to be ok till last nite , it was raining a lot so i decided to check on the caRPET N IT WAS DRY, but i went lil beyond and pull the carpet and it happens to be wet underneath.....

so what should i do??? i want to take 2 the dealer but i feaR they going 2 charge me more, n honestly im broken after the last repair :(
the last time the water was stuck on the back of the driver side, nowhere else

Answers
1)   Well, I would check under the hood. There are rain drains there too that if plugged with debris, can cause water to back up and then overflow into the interior of the car via fresh air inlet.

Look by the heater box on the far left and right of the air plenum. - Briano

2)   My guess is that the water you found was leftover from your original issue. Leave the carpet pulled up to let it dry and check again the next time you get rain. - Gerry

3)   briano is correct.

Check with a vw dealer because there is a recall for this fault. - Howthebldyhellru

4)   Yeah, they don't know the "fck" what they are doing. Or they do but definitely did nothing for you. Except clean the car.

Water gets in from a variety of places. And one is "not" the windshield rubber. That would be so easy to fix, they would have done it years ago in the Rabbits.
First off, understand...whether it be a an old Rabbit,Jetta,Golf, or Passat they are basically the same car except for styling(especially for the Passat). But they are made in the same factory so same assembly technique is used.
Now, it seems to me they are spot welding instead of seam welding. Now Open the hood and look in the "tray" right in front below the windshield(if it is the same as a Golf which I don't know, it has been a long time since I looked at a Passat. But the "tray" is an open box like trough with a bit of plastic overtop the fan motor which stretches from passenger to drivers side and held in by clips. Also it has within it the windshield washer motor and arms. You will see in the bottom of the tray on both sides a drain hole about the size of a dollar piece. And there is a rubbercollet around the hole and a short sleeve to drain the water downward.
Hopefully you have a similar arrangement to what I am describing for everything I say from this point will make sense. At the bottom of the tray you will see a material on the metal. It does not look like metal even though it is painted car color.
It is a "tar" pad. You can poke it with a screwdriver(sometimes a fingernail) and leave a mark it is that soft. It was placed over body seams that were spot welded. Sort of to be the waterstopper if the metal pieces had still a hairline gap....water will squeeze between a hairline crack no problem. You cannot remove the tar pad. That is there good. Now, what I have done is applied silicone around the edges of the pad all the way around and anything else that looked like a body seam. Use the cheap waterbased silicone. It only has a guarantee of 15 years. I think that is sufficient time. Besides it is paintable. That is the uppermost crack.
Now remember where the drain for the tray is? If you took a straight wire or stick or straw and poked it straight down out of the drain hole you would see the water land where the fender and the firewall meet.. That has a weld there.
Understand this, when something is welded, the metal is heated up right at the weld and is more likely to rust right there than anywhere else.. So that is the next point of cleaning the dirt off and using silicone.
Now, let us look at the same weld spot from inside the wheel well(where the tire is) Figure out where the weld would be in the wheel well. It won't show that easily especially if you have had done solutions like I have...tar the wheel wells with roofing compound, undercoating and the like. Lots of gumbo. But if you can figure out where the spot is that too should be either siliconed or tarred or both.
Now, I know you don"t like to hear it but you are gonna have to pull the carpet. Not completely out of the car; but disconnect it from the firewall. I would remove the seats out of the way completely. So you may need to fiddle with that first. They slide all the way forward until they come off the track. And then you can lift them out.
When you lift the carpet you will see a brown underlay type padding. Lift that and you will see the water(or feel the moisture). It works like a sponge Getting the water out of this is no fun.
I propped the underlay up like a tent and then put in a pistol hair dryer, set it on the metal floor of the car and turned it on so it blew medium heat. then I left the doors open a crack and left it for the night.. That dried the drivers side. The passengers may require the same operation. While you are on the drivers side you will see the electricals run down the left side of the floor pan under the underlay. Give them a lift and using a trouble light shining under the car see if you can see any light when you are inside looking past the wiring. You are looking for a floor crack rusted through. It happened. Solution, more silicone. Rusted metal cannot be welded and I just wanted to stop the water so the car would be dry in the snow.
I am not worrying about falling through. Just minor cracks.
While you are at it, drop down the rear seat and look at the shock towers for the rear. It should be clean metal with not even the 'HINT' of rust. If it is rusting it is leaking into the rear.

Also check the condition of the door seal rubbers.
This was never a recall issue, but is the reason so many VW have electrical problems.>water and electricity don't mix<.
If you get past that issue, the car is otherwise pretty good. - the Horses Butt


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Question 5
What direction to remove the crank pulley bolt on a 2000 Volkswagen beetle 2.0.?...  What direction to remove the crank pully bolt on a 2000 volkwagon beetle 2.0.

Answers
1)   really if you cant get it to move one way try the other they just tight might nee dto use your leggs and not your arms might try a pipe on what eve r wrench you working with might have to hit it with a big hammer or stand on it if you cant move it one way try the other way that easy most will be left hand - kelly_f_1999

2)   counterclockwise. just like all bolts.
Are you using an impact wrench ? using a regular 1/2 drive doesn't work too well (the engine will just spin around and around) , use an impact wrench (air or electric) they were made specifically for that job..

Is the motor out of the car ? it's a LOT easier to pull ( and put on) the pulley when the motor is OUT of the car. - Alfonzo

3)   sounds like you are having problems getting it off .put the car up in the air and remove the tire and the splash shield. it will be much easier to get to that way. it is NOT a reverse threaded bolt. not sure why you thought it would be? using a 1/2 impact gun is much easier then a breaker bar. good luck - John C


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