1973 volkswagen super beetle?

Question 1
1973 volkswagen super beetle?...  i want to buy a beetle but i don't know if they are automatic or standard... can i get any suggestions.
and are they economically good

Answers
1)   You can get an automatic, but the standard is better. Cheap to run, decent on gas, horrible heat, easy to repair, but safety is marginal- it's a 37 year old car. - djaca70

2)   If you want an old bug, be sure you have a normal car to drive when the Beetle is broken. Be sure you have all the old manuals and someone willing and qualified to service the old air-cooled bugs. Nearly all are standard transmission, but there were a handful of very troublesome automatics. Bring lots of money to repair the automatic, if you can find anyone that will touch it. - cargopilot

3)   Great Economy very easy to work on very very few are automatics If any.

4-speed manual transaxle,
3-speed clutchless manual ("we call them Autostick")

1938 – 2003
21,529,464 built should be easy enough to find parts - Wade C

4)   The Standard Beetle is a lot better than the Super, they were junk, and don't have the resale value of a real spud. Go with the stick if you get one and hope you live somewhere nice and warm! - onlyoldiron4me

5)   I'd go for it if you can find one. They're pretty simple to work on -- and if it's a 1973, it will need work. I'd suggest the manual. They get pretty good mileage, but you'll be paying for parts; after all, it's 37 years old. - Jim_of_Oz


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Question 2
I just bought this 1999 VW beetle, and I'm having ridiculous amounts of problems! Is there anything i can do?...  So i just bought this beetle today, it has about 105,000 miles on it.
and so far heres whats happened.

On the way back from the dealership the speedometer said i was going above 60, my mom told me (who was in the car in front of me) that i was barely going 50. And to get to that speed, my foot was basically to the floor.

One of the tires is bald, which isn't a huge issue, i can get a new tire.

My uncle also looked and said there was oil leaking, I'm not sure what was going on with that specifically.

On my way home from work, the engine coolant temperature light came on.
and then the malfunction indicator light came on.

Could this all be connected?

Also, my mom wants to return the car and just get a different one. Could this be solved with a few repairs? What do you think it is?

Answers
1)   Did you test drive the car before you bought it. If you got your car from a reputable dealership with a warranty I would take that car back IMMEDIATELY and have them fix it or give you another car. If you bought the car with no warranty or as is you might be out of at least a few hundred dollars in repairs. It sounds like you have some serious mechanical issues that I'm 95% positive the dealership had prior knowledge of but "forgot" to mention. I would listen to your Mother on this one Good luck. - combatready_2003

2)   My opinion would be to take it back. The 99 Beetle had more than its share of problems being the first year they came out. I have a 2001 Beetle and it has no problem at all getting to 50 and way-way beyond. Before you drive it any farther, make sure there's water in the cooling system. By the time the light comes on, it's HOT.

It could all be connected. Worst case, the oil is gone and the car overheated which turned the CEL on which means money$$. You're also around the mileage for a timing belt replacement which is another $700 if it hasn't been already done. - Jim_of_Oz

3)   Don't believe the hype. The only people who say volkswagens are reliable are volkswagen themselves! Everyone I know with a VW spends a lot of time in the garage. Its part of the VW love affair im afraid. Its fashionable, not functional but it does look cool.

Anyway, I think the garage will fix some of it, but not most of it. You need to get negotiating. - Jamie

4)   I love my VW but it sounds like yours is too old, with too many miles, to be worth keeping -- unless you got it for a really good price and can afford to spend a couple of thousand to fix it up. And even then, there could be other problems that haven't manifested yet.

VWs have notoriously bad electrics, for instance.

Good luck, whatever you decide to do. - Bryce

5)   If there was no service records with the car, I would return it quick. VWs are great cars, but routine maintenance had to done to them, or they turn to crap real quick! It sounds like the car wasn't maintained, just drove, so I would give it back , if you can. If you do get another VW, make sure it has all its service records, so you know what has been done to it, and what all needs to be done in the immediate future. At 105K, if the timing belt, tensioner and waterpump hasn't been changed, you are looking at a total disaster if it goes! - onlyoldiron4me


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Question 3
where would the reversing light switch be were can i find it to check it?...  skoda felicai 1.3 combie

Answers
1)   maybe under the footwell of drivers seat - Lee

2)   It should be right on the transmission, that`s where there usually located.a - TURTLELY ENOUGH (TURTLE TURTLE)

3)   on top of the g/box two wires going to it - J R

4)   If it is manual it is usually on the transmission.
If it is a automatic, then it is usually in the center console. - Briano


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Question 4
vw mk4 jetta strut and suspension question.?...  finally getting my car out of the shop after losing my vr6 engine :'( sad day indeed! and getting new struts on it, but since im doing some add ons, i was wondering what or where the best place was to buy springs so i could lower my car about 2''. also any real bad reasons on why i shouldnt slam my ride?

Answers
1)   well, maybe you havnt thought of how easy youre going to scrape the underside of your car if you lower it - Pete

2)   Lowering the car is not really a good idea.
You will bottom out in driveways, etc.
But the least expensive way is to just get low profile tires.
It will have the side advantage of giving you more power as well.
But low profile tires can't take things like hitting curbs as well, if you live in the snow belt. - Motorhead

3)   VWvortex.com is you source for many car mod questions. Generally the lowering is for changing the center of gravity for handling. If you wish to lower your car 2" there are a number of options, but not for just replacing the struts which are just the front suspension. You will be buying either a cupkit, a coilover kit, or a spring and shock combo. Depending on your aptitude of course. I would recommend for the cost and what you appear to know about cars, to buying a spring and shock combo.Going to either neuspeed, ecstuning, or APR (goapr.com) can get you on your way, but if you have questions make sure you ask the professionals at any of those locations.

Low profile tires do not give you more power, and are generally only put on larger wheels (17" plus). Low pro tires on your same size rims just screws up your speedometer. - d

4)   Because your car only has about 4" of ground clearance from the factory, it has an aluminum oil pan right there at the bottom, and that oil pan is protected by nothing more than a little plastic belly pan.

Plus, dropping it too much will screw with the suspension geometry and actually worsen handling. - Richard R


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Question 5
Question about a 2000 VW Passat.. ugh so frustrated.?...  Ok I have an automatic, turbo, 2000 Volkswagen Passat. So yesterday I was going through a drivethru on my way to work and noticed i couldn't roll my windows down.. ok so then i stopped at a store and shut my car off to go inside. When I went back out, the car wouldn't start and none of the lights or windows or anything electrical would work so I had to have it towed to my house. Well now I just went out there to mess with it a little and went to start it and the lights on the dash work and everything but the windows and dome light doesn't. The check engine light is on and theres another light on that says EPC. I am terrified because I know it will probably cost me a fortune. Please help me with this! Thank you in advance!

Answers
1)   battery or bat connections loose - pedro7of9

2)   You need to first buy a cheap voltmeter, ($3 at Harbor Freight).
The with it set to measure voltage below 20, put the leads across the battery.
It should read 12.5 volts, but 12 is ok.
Then when cranking, the voltage should drop to 10.
If it doesn't, you have resistance, like dirty battery terminals, broken ground strap, etc.
If it drops balow 9, the battery needs to be charged or replaced.
(A bad starte could also cause low drop, but I am assuming from the rest of the electrical problems, that the started is not likely.)

So then after putting the battery on the charger and getting it back to starting, you need to check the voltage again.
At idle it should be the same as just the batter, 12.5 volts.
But when you rev it up, it should go to 13.5.
If it doesn't, then the alternator is the suspect.
Make sure the belt is not real loose.
After market alternator is only about $75.

Only thing I did not mention is that you also need to check for a good ground strap between body and engine, because the engine is insulated by rubber mounts. But you have to find that on your own. - Motorhead

3)   EPC could be any number of things. For your information you have a B5 model passat with an ATW engine. This could range anywhere from your ECU being screwed, up to a fuse being out.
http://www.passatworld.com will probably get you a laundry list of answers in a short amount of time, all of them custom tailored to your car model, as we LOVE passats. - d

4)   Sounds to me like the battery is no good. It also may be that you alternator is not putting out enough power. Try getting some one to jump the car and see if it starts. If it does you know its a battery or alternator problem. Then drive to a shop and have them test the battery to see what you need. Total cost should be $150 OR LESS.The lights come on because there is not enough power so do not worry about them until you get a new battery. - uthockey32


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