What could cause engine to heat on 2005 vw jetta 1.8T when accelerating for extended periods of time?

Question 1
What could cause engine to heat on 2005 vw jetta 1.8T when accelerating for extended periods of time?...  I have a 2005 vw jetta 1.8T with around 75 000 miles. The temperature gauge has never moved from 190 when the car is running, even when driving up to Lake Tahoe in the summer (high external temp, climbing 6000ft). I drive one long commute a week of 40 miles each way. When accelerating for extended periods of time, or going up an incline, the engine temp gauge has started to show the engine heating quite quickly, 30-60 seconds, up to as far as 220. When I take my foot off the gas it cools just as quickly. If I have the AC on at the time I can feel the air being circulated gets warmer as the engine heats, and then cools back down as the engine returns to 190. I am a car moron, but I am a physicist, so I can grab the physical concept of explanations. Any ideas??
Thanks for the answers!! Checked the fans and theycome on and are running OK. Flushing the cooling system sounds like the next step....

Answers
1)   It could be you fan for you radatior. If its a belt drive fan look for a new clutch if its electric check you relays. Or you water pump is going out. - ThomasP

2)   Could be your water pump going bad or you may need a new thermostat.. - chasenrane

3)   water pumps rarely go out, they only leak. maybe your radiator needs to be professionally cleaned out. it never hurts to change the thermostat. - tim m

4)   Water pumps can go bad, more so now than in the past. The new ones have plastic impellers that can break.

Causes for temps on acceleration could be the following:

Bad or calcified radiator, as in it need to be flushed
Thermostat that is stuck open or closed.
Low fluid level
Fan that doesn't run, If your car is off, turn the keyswitch on (do not start the car) turn the heater fan on to number 2 speed, then turn on the a/c Do you hear the radiator fan come on? No, then bad fan, or relay.

When you go up a hill, your car will heat up, that is normal as the engine is straining to keep up the speed, as you crest the rise the engine idles and the increased heat will climb a bit more then go down.

If you haven't replaced or flushed your cooling system in the last 2 years now is the time to do so. Flush it with a commercial auto flush (should have the fluid drained and filled with water first.. The remember to drain it out and run water through the system to flush the flush.

or Use about 1/4 to 1/2 cup CLR in your system with fresh water, run the engine for about 10 minutes allow to cool and drain.. then refill with water, and 1/4 to 1/2 cup of baking soda added to the water and run for 10 minutes and allow to drain. CLR is ACIDIC, you need to neutralize it.

What I usually do is to remove the thermostat and replace the housing only. Then I run water in the upper hose to the block, till it runs clear, then reverse it and run the hose in the radiator till it comes out clear in the upper block ....I do it about 3-4 times. I also do the heater core this way.

I would bet that your relay for the fan is toast, or the radiator switch is flaky. - Briano

5)   VW uses their infamous plastic impeller on their water pumps, these can crack and separate from the metal shaft at any time, its something to check. ps. at 75K I hope the timing belt and the water pump was replaced a while ago, the 1.8T is an interference engine with 5 valves per cylinder, not a cheap repair. - pbleek


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Question 2
I want to supe up my car!?...  i have a 2010 ford focus sel, it has 140 hp and 136 ft lb of torque
what can i do to increase those number and what supercharger kits can and should buy?

Answers
1)   1. You don't "supe" up a car. Suping up is what kids the age of 5 say about cars, because they don't understand "modifying for performance".

2. You don't have 140 horsepower. You have 140 at the engine. At the wheels, it's closer to 100.

3. There's lots of things you can to do to increase the horsepower. But torque is what provides acceleration, so that's what you really want.

4. The most efficient thing to do, is sell the car, and get one with more power to start with. Seriously. Let's say your goal is around 200whp. By the time you're done, you will spend several thousand dollars more than if you had just purchased a car with 200.

And the modifications will make the car much more expensive to maintain.

5. You don't just buy a supercharge kit. You need to make sure the engine is designed for the levels of stress from forced induction. Which it's not. So look at rebuilding the engine, transmission, fuel sending system, etc.

All in a car, that at the end of the day....is still a Ford Focus, and no one cares about. - Vipassana

2)   Look into an exhaust system, ceramic race headers, cold air intake, pulleys, head gaskets, etc... There's a lot of things you can do. Super chargers are expensive, don't get the garbage ones because you will regret it. - Burberry

3)   listen mumbo??? stay away from that junk/that car is under warranty and you will void the whole thing/a bad trans wont be covered and about 3000 wont feel good/if you really wantr to soup it up stop at shoprite and stock up with campbells - ken k

4)   DONT LISTEN TO THE GUY WHO SAYS SELL YOUR CAR.....
keep it.... there are plenty of mods to put on it.


CAI
throttle body [spacer]
Headers
Exhaust
and a turbo would get you to where you wanna go. - K. Miller #13 (Ford owns)


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Question 3
Torque settings for a 1970 VW Bug?...  Hello
I am working on my 1600 VW bug and I need to torque settings for the Heads, Can anyone help me out?

Thanks

Answers
1)   google it, but more than likely it's no more than 95 ftlbs. - Jimmy C

2)   Hi Jessica, these are out of the shop manual cylinder heads are at 23 ft lb for the 1600cc.
If you need any more, give me the stars and best answer, I'lll give you any answers on these engines you need. Update: the answer that Jimmy shows is incorrect I've got the shop manual and the heads "are 23 ft lbs " go over that and you'll snap the bolts. Of you need any more torque numbers let me know, the book is at hand. DR D - DR DEAL

3)   Please verify that they are 10mm.
If so 23lbs is correct.

If they are 8mm, then it's 18lbs

I have attached a list for the rest of the engine. - Chirco.com


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Question 4
20w 50 good for old car?...  

Answers
1)   not unless you live on the equator/or its a cab/you need good lubrication use 10w30 and thats it/the heavy stuff builds sludge - ken k

2)   if you meen wats as in (horse power to wats) no its terible 1 hp makes 745.7 wats (average car makes 100 hp) - golden_sonic

3)   For an old VW, like with any car, the oil type should be suited to meet your needs. The lower the first number, the better the cold viscosity. Ie: 20 is high, so it would be fine if you were in a warmer climate, but not if you were anywhere it might get cold (Canada or the northern United States). 50 is for better oil performance at higher temperatures as well. - Eric


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Question 5
I need a key cut for my VW 2005 Passat -how much will it cost? AAA couldn't open it. Why?...  I locked the keys in the trunk of my car. AAA came and the guy said since the car is armed it won't open from the inside with their device. He said it has an anti-theft device which prevents them from opening it without a key. Is this true? How much will a VW new cut key cost? Is the dealer the best bet?

Answers
1)   A dealer in arizona wanted 75. I called around and other key places said they didnt have the cutting machine for this type of key, finally found one and they wanted 25. - I

2)   False. I do agree that the doors are difficult to open when they're locked, but not inmpossible. The door lock linkage is partially shielded to reduce the chances of opening the door with a slim jim type of tool. To tell the truth, I was never able to open the late model VW's, but in our shop we had one guy who had the "feel" and was able to open any VW including the Touareg with the correct "slim jim" type of tool.

If you don't have the key (sounds like you don't have a duplicate), you'll need to get the key code from a VW dealership (they can go online to VW and70 obtain the code) and if (and this is a BIG IF) they have the correct key machine to cut the key from code, they can do it on the spot. Some locksmiths might, I repeat, might be able to do it on some expensive computer controlled "laser" type cutting machines from code, but it won't be cheap. Around where I am, they charge about the same as the dealership does for a non-switch blade type key, about $70 or so and it has to be ordered overnight from the facing parts depot (Los Angeles/Compton in our case).

Normally AAA has a locksmith service, besides the normal tow truck driver using a flat slim jim tool; I'd call back and ask to have the locksmithing service come to open your car. AAA has a flat payment system and in the SF Bay Area its not enough to cover what is charged to open the car; however, your co-payment difference is a lot less than if you called a local locksmith yourself to have them open your car. Here in this area, a local locksmith on call charge is $100-125; AAA I think pays $60-- you pay the difference.

I would suggest making a duplicate key, even one that isn't calibrated to the car would be better than nothing. You need to have however many keys you want for the vehicle calibrated at the same time, its one charge for however many keys you have.

Hope this helps, a car nut. - a car nut


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