WHAT KIND OF BUG IS THIS!!!?

WHAT KIND OF BUG IS THIS!!!?

Ok, so this is the 4th little bug I killed. I reside in northern california, and the past week, i've seen these black tiny bugs. It's round, almost a lady bug like shape, it's black with small white or beige spots on it. and when it's not crawling the little legs hide inside it's shell. I will attach pictures even though its not super clear, I hope the description

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v139/xidream3rix/Photo0618.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v139/xidream3rix/Photo0619.jpg
haha sorry volkswagon people, i actually posted the question twice, and once in the wrong section. thanks everyone for being helpful!

Asked by: m0chiprincess @ 2009-04-16 19:13:54

Answers ::
It is a ----------- Little BUG !!!

Harley guy

thats poop

CJ

lol..
thats a horrible picture you have provided us with..
theres no way of telling.

M11

Well, it's not a Volkswagen bug you chucklehead!

Rudy H

Thats got nonething to do with a Volkswagen.

Well any way it could be head lice, Fleas, Lady Bird painted in Black.

adamjoeldavis39

Try the offical bug site.

Old Man Dirt

while its hard to tell what you are showing us in those pictures, it's sounds like you are describing a ... lady bug. Lady bugs come in many differnt shape, size, and colors.

Randy

where can you find a pink vw new convertible beetle in eastern north carolina?

Asked by: carolinegrimes96 @ 2009-04-16 17:51:38

Answers ::
fayette ville the cheapest$$$$ the best my mother has one

twilight vampire

I would check with the high school drama teacher

Grass

vehix??? or just get a beetle, then take to a shop to get it repainted

soccerugbystarr

in a gay guy's driveway

Nan

You could order it online.

Fyanna Z

buy one, then get it painted in pink

Sean T

Why will my VW camper van not idle?

I have a 1979 bay window 1.6 camper van. My camper had an engine tune recently which consisted of carb clean, new points and condenser, carb emissions setting, new plugs, new leads and distributor. I took it on a successful 300mile journey without any problems. On the way back the van started cutting out every time it came to a stop (at lights or a roundabout) indicating a problem at idle. Now when I start it the engine idles for about 10 secs then cuts out. The carb jets are clean. I adjusted the mixture screw, volume screw and idle arm screw with no luck (I have since put them back to base settings). Fuel is pumping thru ok and is nice and clean so no problem with the fuel filter. The Electromagnetic cut off valve is working fine. I can start the van and it runs for about 10 seconds and splutters to a stall. I can however keep it running when I depress the accelerator pedal so I am assuming there is no issue with the fuel pump. Any ideas what could be the issue? is there anything I should look out for during the carb rebuild? I thought it was just the volume/idle screw settings but I cant even get it to run BADLY to even start to tune it. How do the vacuum hoses fit on? What about hoses to and from the air box?

Asked by: tommy_2081 @ 2009-04-16 04:50:40

Answers ::
I know it seems like a fuel problem but check your points--the gap and the colour of the contacts.If they are blue or burnt then check the earth to the points from the distributor and replace the condenser and points again.There is also an in line fuel filter on the VW LT That gave a lot of problems.Finally, when it cuts out remove the top of the carburetor and see if the float chamber is full of fuel.If not check that the float isn't punctured or the needle valve behind it isn't blocked with dirt or come loose

arlanymor

This could be a problem with your ignition coil or ht leads. Have you checked the condition of the spark plugs? This will give you some idea what cylinders are not working properly.
also I have come across this problem before on a 1973 VW 1.6 camper van.
It turned out to be a charging problem. The symptom's were exactly as you have described them.

mick49a

Lets try the basics since you seem to have covered the other stuff:

1) Vacume leak: Check for a loose or broken hose. Then get some carb cleaner and, with the engine running, spray it on the carb at the base and on the hose ends and fittings. If the car suddenly runs better you found your problem.

2) Fuel Filter: easy to overlook and cheap to swap out if you are not sure. Sometimes even if the fuel gets thru at low speed it will choke at any load.

3) Crud in the tank line. Used compressed air to blow the line back out to the tank. If it works, then you need to drain the tank and flush it out because the air just pushes the crud away.. like bad news it WILL return. Likewise you could have a load of bad gas. Get some and run it from a small gas can with a temporary hose and see if the problem vanises

Moving up in complexity:

The Carb.. they DO go bad and yours appears to be 30 years old (?). Check that your choke is fully off once the car has started and warmed since if it is sticking it will do what you described

The engine.. check your compression.. make sure you dont have a larger problem and the fuel is just a symptom.

THe hoses from the air cleaner can be plugged temprorarily at the carb just to eliminate that problem. Then remove the air clearner to check the choke and test the engine.

.

ca_surveyor

I was going to say check the vacuum lines to be sure they fit on "tight". The vacuum on the end is twice the strength of the average household vacuum cleaner. It should not be hard(in that you cannot squeeze the ends closed together with your finger tips. It is a rubber hose. If you can't squeeze the hose together it has hardened and does not fit on tight.(like too much starch in the socks) so nip off a half inch and see that it is squeezable and then fit it back on to the intake manifold and to the distributor advance.

Okay, now that it is not sucking air from other places(other than down the carb where it is suppose to go)
Because you did 300 miles and there was no problem up to that point, one would think you had bad fuel. Or that the needle/float is sticking closed and not allowing fuel to come in to the float bowl. (Because you run out of fuel)
A carb clean is not necessarily a carb rebuild. It is a thought. The fact the car runs for 10 sec. has nothing to do with the mixture or volume screw so don't F with them.

I have had the case where I could drive 30 miles in one direction no problem. Turn around and come back no problem.
But if I took another road in the opposite direction and tried to go 40 miles; the car would die. And stay dead for 20 minutes. Before it cooled off enough? so that I could restart it and continue the last 10 miles into the next town(during that time I would pull off the hose from the fuel tank to the pump to see if I was getting fuel and I was). Going back the 40, no problem. Did this twice before I figured out it was the mechanical fuel pump (on the third go) "check ball" was getting stuck inside the pump. - there was no fuel coming out of the hot pump(no hotter than normal). I could go any other direction more than 40 miles and this would not happen.(mind you I was climbing mountain highways) instead of driving on the valley bottom as in this case. Definitely weird. But the 3rd time I took off the output hose from the fuel pump when it stalled out and saw nothing was coming out when I cranked it.
Changed the pump - not a problem afterwards.
I never worried about it as I hardly ever visited that town. "Evil-ville"
But that was just weird.

Anyways, with any vacuum hoses that you cannot connect. shove a golf Tee into them so they are blocked. The vacuum hose under the carburator goes to the distributor advance. diaphram. The car was tuned so all that should have been okay.
You have a fuel problem of some sort.

Best answer usually the simplest

i see these long answers but just check for a vaccum leak. thats the first thing. you said the fuel filter was working? maybe you should buy a new one, im not sure if your van has an egr valve. if it does, just give it a little cleaning.

efrain v

What does grey crankcase oil mean in an air-cooled VW engine?

I'm trying to get an engine running that has been sitting for three years. When I drained the oil that had been sitting it was black with maybe 2 ounces of water in it. I ran it for a few minutes with fresh oil and a new filter. That oil has turned grey.
Ran again with fresh oil. Still grey, but maybe not so much. I guess I'll try it a few more times. Stock Tip: Buy Exxon!
This was originally a 1600cc. It's built to 2300cc, 140 h.p. Uses a Ford V8 racing filter. If I can get it running it's going to be quite a ride. Right now it starts hard, runs rough and won't run below about 3000 rpm.

Asked by: xequez @ 2009-04-16 16:00:50

Answers ::
You have still got condensation and sediment in the oil system. Run it for a short time to warm it up and then repeat the oil and filter change. Don't run any additives or chemical flushes through it. They would probably cause damage by blocking the oil passages. I have brought engines "back to life" and never needed to use them. Don't use the non-detergent oil as suggested by another. It would allow formation of deposits that you are already trying to get rid of.

Otis

it's still got water in it..add some motor flush and run it for a few minutes and drain again..

SVOMAN

Sounds like an oil additive or "Never Seize" or "Lubriplate" was added to the oil before it was shut down. Some gumbo. I wouldn't worry about it though, considering it runs. That is all you really are interested in.
Not a worry. And the moisture is common (more so on engines that have a few miles on them.) What filter? Most air cools just have a screen.

You don't need any additives. Heck, they don't even need detergent oil as they are meant to run on straight weights SAE30 or SAE20(in the winter)

Best answer usually the simplest

Sounds more like magnesium dust from corrosion. The engine case is an aluminum/magnesium alloy. If it sat with condensation in it for a length of time you have a problem.You've seen how aluminum corrodes and instead of hard red rust like steel it turns to a powdery white dust. I'm afraid that is what you see in your oil. You may get lucky if you keep changing out the oil and filter. maybe add a cup full of Marvel Mystery Oil each time. Try this web site for more info.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/

bill f

i have a 98 jetta what ells can i do?

i have put a full exaust system. headers and cold air intake system and turbo in my car. everything is street leagle. what ells can i do that is street leagle or is it time to go illeagle and what could i do beside a nos system

Asked by: Erik @ 2009-04-15 20:58:45

Answers ::
I guess exterior mods would be next?

Jan™

this is a joke right? by turbo do you mean that ebay fan that goes on your intake lmao

Robert n

Well, i assume it is a VR6 correct?? Lightened flywheel, pulley - clutch kit. Better spark plugs / wires. Exterior mods. not sure man.

paintballpro111

I will say go for stage 2 or 3 turbo if that is done already a GIAC chip + spark plug wires (race ones not OEM) and all the engine parts can be changed to stronger ones...

Luis A.

How many miles should a vw 2000 turbo Jetta go?

I have a Jetta and have been told that it needs the cam done on it and will cost a few thousand to fix. It has 105K miles on it already. If i pay the money how long should it keep going?

Asked by: TG @ 2009-04-16 17:40:08

Answers ::
VW makes durable cars which is a good sign but the turbo ruins it a little. Since its over 100K already the maintence is gonna cost alot and the turbo just adds to it but the car would give you 1 and a half years probab of good driving then maintence would give it another year. But thats if you drive around 19K a year.

Jan™

It all depends how you drive it and how much you need done. I know someone who has has mostly stock parts on for up to 180k and some who have to sell at 110k cause of too many problems.

best of luck!

Sean T

Depends how far away the local dump is.

Highly intelligent monkey

sounds like you are getting ripped off, better take it somewhere else.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeromain?id=113

sign up on this site and pick your region ask some1 that knows vw's to check it out

Robert n

hi, i recently bought a K reg VW Golf CL Auto. What does E/S switch near gearstick do?

Asked by: drazycash @ 2009-04-16 11:31:33

Answers ::
Economy or Sport mode. This adjusts the revs at which the auto box changes gear for either more performance or more fuel economy.

Ed

Electric Sunroof?

meh

DO NOT EVER!!!!! Flip this switch while car is in motion. NEVER EVER be seated in car and flip the switch in a confined space IE: garage, car park, carport. THIS SWITCH IS FOR EMERGENCIES ONLY........Ejection Seat = E/S

alledgedflatlander