Does something always go wrong with VW Beetles?

Question 1
Does something always go wrong with VW Beetles?...  I'm getting a new car and I've always wanted a Beetle, just because they're cute and girly. I want a convertible and my mom says I should really reconsider because she says everyone she knows that owns a Beetle (which is a friend of a friend, never close people) say that they wish they had never gotten it because something always goes wrong with it. She says that the cost to get a new problem fixed is always more than $500. She's always heard it from word of mouth, and that's only the negative, she's never heard the positive. So I wanted to know if anyone has a Beetle and if they have problems with it. Thanks! :o)

Answers
1)   Yeah...beetles are absolute garbage like 85% of all vws and audis. - Hank Scorpio

2)   Yes. - Matt Axelrod

3)   I don't know why anyone would want to drive a bug... first of all, I don't even consider them to be Volkswagens... because they're just not Volkswagens.

But, mainly... yeah they are unreliable cars. I've been driving Volkswagens for a while and they are reliable, but the Beetle... just isn't. And I cannot imagine what a Beetle would look like after an accident. There is no way those cars are safe, just look at them...

If you still want a Volkswagen, I suggest a Jetta or a Golf (what I drive, and highly recommend) - marilyn

4)   Ignore all the spammers.
VW Beetles are great.
My brother has had one for many years, and many people I know love theirs.
They are one of the most reliable cars on the road.
You can tell because they hold their resale value better than almost anything.

But one caution is that dealers are always very expensive.
Anyone should always find a reliable independent garage, and try to use 3rd party parts.
And that is another reason VW is so good. They keep designs for a long time, so it is easy to find people who know how to work on them, and there are lots of 3rd party parts suppliers.

And the Beetle has the same engine, drive train, and suspension as all the other VWs, so there is nothing unusual about it except the appearance, which is very aero dynamic and strong. - Motorhead

5)   My Beetle was fantastic! I loved it loved it loved it! I got it up to 90,000 miles and got rid of it. Why? Because, although it was still like new in every way I felt I was pushing my luck. Other beetles with as many miles were advertising that they had replaced all kinds of expensive crap already. So I dumped mine and bought a 1979 bus.
You love Beetles. Buy one. They are extremely comfortable and roomy and just wonderful little cars. Just don't try to hang on to one past 75,000 miles.
I was lucky.
And it's true. Any little thing that goes wrong with one is a pain in the butt and costs $500. But if you are under 75,000 miles you might be OK for a while.
And I wouldn't get a convertible. It eats up all your trunk space and some of your interior and is not as safe in a crash. Go for the the sunroof. Trust me. The sunroof is really cool. - kelly d


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Question 2
Clutch or Transmission Problem, Premature Clutch Wear, Symptoms Included?...  I have a 1996 Volkswagen Jetta GL
2.0L Engine
5 Speed Transmission

When I bought the car the transmission had bad synchro rings, so
I put another 5 speed in it out of a 95 Cabrio.

Fit fine, just needed to switch to Cabrio axles.

The cable hookup was slightly different that that of the Jetta,
and it hooked in a different way, so I took the lock plate for
the cable off the old transmission ( just the plate, not the arm)
and hooked it up.

My problem...

When my car is warmed up, I have been driving it for 15 minutes or so,
the clutch starts to slip. (changed the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate,
and retainer clip from the cabrio onto it when I put it together..)

So, when I am on the interstate my 3rd gear will pull me up to 70mph or so at around 5900-6000 RPMs, my 4th gear will not pull me above 60mph at any rpm.

I know my clutch is slipping because even in low gears I am getting huge increases in RPM's without a large increase in acceleration (yes, I know how to drive a 5 speed)

So.....

Am I going to get this thing apart tomorrow and find that the transmission is bad?

I'm scared....

Put sooooo much work into this car....

Let me narrow down a few things.

BRAND NEW tires and alignment
New Axles
Transmission holds 2.1 quarts of fully synthetic gear oil (down 0.1 quart)

AND, yes I am sure I put it all together right.

I am sorry this is so long, but I really need expert opinions right now, and I wanted to add
some details I may have overlooked.

Thanks everyone.

Answers
1)   A 5 speed isn't going to 'slip'. Any slip will be in the clutch. Something is holding the clutch plate. If it's hydraulic, a bad master cylinder can hold it open because it's not relieving properly. - Pancakes

2)   The flywheel needs the glaze broke at least, most of us have it turned for a new surface.
There is an out side and an in side to the clutch plate many times. One boss might be longer preventing the clutch disk from operating right.
Back off on the clutch adjustment or at least make sure the adjustment is right. - Old Man Dirt

3)   Not sure exactly what to say, because anyone who switches a transmission should be able to adjust a clutch properly. But at the same time, I don't understand why anyone would drive up to 6000 RPM, especially in 3rd gear on the interstate. You should really never go over 4000 RPM normally, and maybe 4200 in a tight situation. Redline is 5000.

Otherwise I would mention things like binding clutch cable, the throw out bearing can bind in the tailhousing of the transmission.
Since you changed the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate, it is very unlikely to be any of those.

But I don't know what you mean about the cable? Do you mean speedo cable, or clutch cable?
And what lock plate?

I also thought the Cabrio used the same axles as the Jetta?

My best guess is that something like the pedal pivot, cable, or thowout bearing is not releasing properly. You should feel excess or lack of resistance in the pedal, if any of these were true.
I believe my best guess is the self adjusting mechanism in the clutch cable is bad. - Motorhead


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Question 3
How to make a VW golf more masculine?...  Long story short, I bought a semi used 2010 4 door VW Golf. Its silver, 5 Cylinder 2.5 Liter 170 Hp. How can I make it look more masculine? I am willing to paint it a different color and pay for any spoilers. I already have 17 inch Alloy wheels and fog lights.

Answers
1)   it's impossible - Jimmy

2)   Sell it.

Kidding... Silver isn't a bad color; nicer wheels might help (don't know what style you have.) Spoilers often just look dorky, not masculine. Lowering usually looks good. - Mark K

3)   Lower it definitely, limo tint the windows, add a big tailpipe, a hood scoop, silver is a good color. With the alloys and fog lights you will be good as gold!! - Gearhead


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Question 4
Reliability of VW Golf Mk5 1.9 tdi?...  I curently have a ford focus 1.8 mk1 2004 with lpg and it is too expensive on fuel suprisingly, with 21mpg @75p per litre, price equivalent to 36mpg.
So, the golf claims 40-50 mpg solving this problem, however, how reliable is it? Also, does it have a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF), which is expensive to replace?

Thanks
I would also consider other suggestions, maybe Focus 1.6 tdci if it's more reliable, but it needs to be of a low insurance group. Also preferably not too big, hence focus mk2 being not as desireable.

Answers
1)   I have the Jetta Wagon USA 2.0TDI it gets around 42 mpg. The golf should get a bit higher around 45.
It is better to have the newer diesels since the diesel fuel has changed. The older diesels do not like the new fuel much and can be hard on them. I love my VW and it is extremely reliable, never any problems with the engine for the last year. Everything on a diesel engine can be expensive. I never heard of the DPF going out much and it will run without it, ppl remove it for more power. - strykertech

2)   I had a lease on a 1.9 TDI Golf and loved it!! I never once had any problems with the engine or the 6 speed manual transmission. My only problem was with the "bonnet open" indicator light...had to replace it 4 times in 2 years! Besides that I did get about 48 mpg most of the time. - Viktobog

3)   vw's are impeachable for reliability the performance and comfoet is like nothing else they are absoloutley superflous the parts are also really cheep for the quality and they are verry frugal with the fuel seriousley if you buy a vw you will never buy a ford again. - M.A.B.


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Question 5
What could cause a 99 volkwagen beetle to overheat WHILE driving but NOT while idling?...  What could cause a 99 volkwagen beetle to overheat WHILE driving but NOT while idling?
I am seriously considering getting this car for my daughter and according to the owner it overheats while driving but not while idling.
I know a few mechanical things but don't want to get in over my head with a $ pit.
Thanks

Answers
1)   First thing to look at is cooling. Idling does not require much cooling, but the power expended while driving needs more. Usually, a new radiator will solve the problem.

It's fairly easy to diagnose. Fill the cooling system with 100% water and drive it. Compare the results. If it stays cool with water only but overheats with the 50/50 mix of water and anti-freeze, you pretty much know it's the radiator. - frank lynn

2)   When the car is being used, the engine is running. When it's idle, the engine is not running. When things are in fast motion, they tend to heat up. When things aren't in motion at all, they cool off.
Like when you want a warm shower. If you stand in front of the shower head naked looking like a total derp, nothing comes out. If you turn the shower on, you get warm water. It's just common sense. - heated

3)   These years prior to 2002, were famous for having the water pump impeller spin on the shaft; they could circulate just enough water at idle though the block, but at higher rpm's the impeller just couldn't do the job. A temperature check with an infared hand held can verify blockage in the radiator and/or temperature at the block/water pump area. Also possible, but not likely, is a blown head gasket.

Beginning with the 2002 model year, the water pumps became 100% metal instead of using a plastic type impeller on the input shaft. (All current VW supplied replacement pumps are also 100% metal; only the original factory installed pre-2002 pumps are metal/plastic combination) A block check (using the correct dye and proceedure) and proper usage of a hand held infared temperature scan tool can held to diagnose the proper fault. - a car nut


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