What are the best type of VWs?

Question 1
What are the best type of VWs?...  i really like VW cabrios but ive heard that VWs are super expensive to fix in the US and arent that great of cars.

Answers
1)   the best type of VW is the one that someone else owns! LOL!

They are VERY expensive to fix, buy a Honda. - PAUL

2)   u heard right !

dont get one . - jay

3)   The ones that are totalled and sitting in a junkyard for scrap parts. - Kenny

4)   A type 1, pre 1972 are the best. - Old Man Dirt

5)   GTI. but yea, i woulds go with a honda - Jacob

6)   I never heard that there to expencive to fix but the best VW is the CC. Sexy sporty sedan. Worth the money trust me. - Jack


___________________________________________________

Question 2
where is the transmission for a vw beetle yr 2000?...  pleasee help <3

Answers
1)   Should be on the bottom right of the engine! - Do it Wright

2)   Connected to the motor. Under your car. - portumadre

3)   Wow!! It would seem that you are where you started off when you asked the question! lol!!

By you not knowing where this component is in the car, I presume that your knowledge is limited.

The transmission, or gearbox, is situated at the front of the car, on the left side. If you are standing in front of the car, looking at it, with the bonnet open, it will be on your right hand side. Situated quite low down in the engine compartment. I am interested to know why you want to know where it is.. Funny thing about gearboxes is, that you can't see if they are faulty..

Hope this could help.
If you need any more assistance, feel free to mail me at hedley.suckow@gmail.com - First NameHedley

4)   Simply: in the engine compartment. It is bolted to the engine. Perhaps obtaining a book out of the public library on "how to repair cars" will give you all the diagrams and pictures you need to identify all the parts of the car. - Xavwieztsky


___________________________________________________

Question 3
What was the gas mileage of the old bug?...  

Answers
1)   less than one would think for a 4 cyl - LAUGH AND THE WORLD LAUGHS WITH

2)   I had a 68 bug w/ a 1.6L & the gas mileage was not as good as you would think. Maybe on a good day 25mpg/city & 30mpg/hwy. Those old carb engines were a pain to keep in tune. That was 20 yrs ago when I had it & I'm sure now they make electronic injection & timing kits for them.
My old ride: http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/eagle6014/68Beetle.jpg
Sorry about the poor pic quality, it was a scanned photo taken from an old Kodak 110. - The Eagle Keeper

3)   As the others said, less than you'd think. I remember getting 20-25 mpg. In the '50s and '60s, though, that would have been pretty darn good.

I also remember being surprised by the amount of room inside for a 'small' car. Certainly more headroom than my current cars. - Mark K

4)   in my 70 with a stock 1600cc single port, stock ignition and points. im getting about 25mpg combined. - Air-Cooled ACVW


___________________________________________________

Question 4
how to make it woork?...  

Answers
1)   Replace it, repair it, rebuild it, give it a good whack with a ball peen hammer, lubricate it, etc.....etc........... - LeAnne

2)   Viagra? - Pen Man

3)   How to make what work? Aah, I know. Just bang on it with a baseball bat. lol - Mixed Beau


___________________________________________________

Question 5
Why does my temperature red light keep flashing in my car? (2001 VW Beetle)?...  Ok here is the truth. My check engine light came on about 2 months ago. I was going to take it in to the dealer but then it went off the next day I figured it was a electrical thing. Then it came on again, I went to autozone and had them check it out. The machine said check coolant level. It was a little low so I filled it up and the light went off. Well a few weeks later it came on again took it back t autozone the machine said the same thing. The guy told me to replace my coolant sensor. So I bought one, but then the light went off and I honestly forgot about it. Well Monday not only did the check engine light come on the temperature light came on and flashed. Of course then I decided to have my dad change the sensor. Well it worked or so we thought. We had the check engine light reset and took it for a test drive. Everything went well until we were on our way home and the light came on again we check the coolant level had overflow, the sensor was in correctly so at this point I don't know what to do ? My dad thinks its either the water pump or the radiator.

Answers
1)   If still under warranty, you should have taken back to dealer the first time. Now take it back to dealer and explain what going on and don't tell them you have replaced the sensor. - swflsteelerfan

2)   If coolant gets very hot, it can trigger the temperature light to come on. I would check the coolant pressure and its condition to make sure it's not boiling at operating temp. check radiator cap and thermostat. be sure they're in good condition. - kritsada

3)   The temperature red light is flashing because you are on the verge of overheating.
I have not worked on a beetle since the air cooled ones; so I am gonna go out on a limb and say it has the "Rabbit" motor in it most likely. Only because I don't think that VW has made that many different motors.
Not that Rabbit motors are bad (but it is VW's first attempt at water cooled engines).

Now, locate the thermostat housing. If you are finding it on the bottom side of the engine(viewable from passenger wheel) then your problem is simple.
Bottom mount thermostat engines are not refilled the same way as a top mount thermostat. Remember that. It is not only VW that has bottom mount thermostat engines.
So what I would do is first make sure the engine is cold, (not run for a few hours), then I would put a clean catch basin under the motor in the area I am working(for you are gonna drain the motor of coolant) Don't go looking for any taps as there isn't any. Pull off the bottom rad hose that connects it to the thermostat housing by undoing the hose clamp.
That will empty the radiator. You have drained 1/2 of the system. To get the rest of the coolant, you must loosen(and remove) the 2 10mm bolts that hold the thermostat in place. Take your time and do not break them off. Now, once the housing has been removed you will look up in the block and see the shiny thermostat held in place with a big rubber "O" ring(that is your gasket-which is reuseable so don't break it and remove it. Hold the thermostat up with the other hand at the same time as you remove the "O" ring. Get your drain pan close because when you remove the thermostat(by grasping it with your fingers) the coolant behind it will come out. And there is a fair amount(to get your arm soaked and your face washed at the same time). Now your block is empty of coolant.
Chances are there is nothing wrong with the thermostat. So slip it back into position as it was, then the "O" Ring. (If you broke the O ring you can buy this seperate piece at VW or any autoparts store or heavy duty truck shop. So long as you bring the original with you. So they can find a comparable size. Silicone repair does not work here. You need to have the same thickness of "O" ring as you removed.
Now, you may find that the "O" ring will not hold up the thermostat by itself. This is where you hold up the parts in the hole and with the other hand, slip your finger thru the housing so it can hold the thermostat up into position and hold the housing in place at the same time. If you are in the process of doing it you will understand. With the housing held in place screw in the 2 10mm bolts by hand till they seat(then you are assured you did not cross thread them. Then cinch it tight with a 10mm wrench. >the open ended wrench in the VW toolkit is enough to do this job< You don't need to make it super duper tight (risking breaking the bolts that hold the thermostat in place).
No loc-tite is needed, no nothing. Now reconnect the lower rad hose to the thermostat and tighten clamp.
You can now get up.
Refilling any bottom mount thermostat is the same procedure (whether it be on a stationary engine, Ferrarri or your car.
Pull off the top rad hose from the rad. Now pour coolant slowly down the rad hose. This will fill the "backside of the thermostat" Remember, the thermostat is closed when it is cold so no coolant will leak past it and the "O" ring. It is just doing its job. By pouring slowly you are allowing the air to escape past the hose as the coolant goes in. I don't mean super slow, just at a pace you drink "coffee" at. I like pouring with an old tomato juice can which can hold a volume that is manageable with one hand (as the other hand is holding the hose) Sooner or later the block will fill up " the engine" as you cannot pour anymore in the hose as you are full. Now reconnect the hose to the rad. Clamp it.
Now, with the rest of the coolant, pour in from the top reservoir(this will fill the radiator and the heater hoses and the hoses in general. Any remaining fluid put into the overflow container located on the passenger side.

Now, with all the coolant gone and if you do not see any leaks from underneath, you are good to go, knowing that there is "no air in the system"

It is not a water pump or radiator issue.
>>I am saying drivers side and passenger side because that is the way I remember it in a Rabbit. If they have changed the location in the beetle make the adjustment in your mind.<<

If you are still suffering coolant blow out(overflow) a leaking head gasket would be my next guess for that excess pressure,,,,as the only source of compression is from the cylinders.

Another note to note: VW makes their engine so that anyone can work on it.....meaning you don't need a hoist. Just a hole in the ground(a pit) will do. So a lot of the work is done from the under side meaning working from a pit is the easiest way for a home owner to work on it. Or sticking the car up on a ramp and you laying on the floor. This applied to air cooled engines and so too with Rabbit & Jetta&Golf. - Xavwieztsky


___________________________________________________