Should I buy this 1971 VW Super Beetle?

Question 1
Should I buy this 1971 VW Super Beetle?...  So I'm bored with my old 1991 Mazda 626 with 196,000 miles on it and I got an offer for 1,000 for it which I thought was good. So now I'm in the market for a new car and I found a 1971 Super Beetle for 900. The car has decent interior, wouldn't take too much work to fix that up, and the engine looks pretty dirty and there is some rust. However, the asking price for it is 900 and I can most likely talk them down a little since I'm the only person who has really been interested. I'm going to have a VW mechanic check it out and see what they think but the more opinions the merrier! So my questions for you are, do you think its worth it from what you know? How many mpg does it probablly get? I heard that they are pretty unsafe so would that make insurance more expensive? Any words of wisdom? Thanks a billion!

Answers
1)   Here in Australia, I have never heard of Beetles being considered "unsafe". I'm guessing it has the 1·5L engine, which is about as much power as you need. If it has a 1·6, all the better. Fuel economy won't be spectacular, but they hardly guts it down (use 95 octane or better). A Dakky mechanic may suggest a carby overhaul (or at least a float adjustment) and this will ensure she's not guzzling more than her fair share. Change the oil straight away to ensure she runs cool and clean.

Happy motoring. - Kevin Phillips

2)   The '71 Super Beetle is likely to be a 1600. The do about 27mpg, sometimes better depending on driving style and conditions. Check for rust in the heater channels, C pillars and floorpan. Expect some rust, but if it's bad or not easily fixed, the car isn't worth it. A dirty engine is often a sign of neglect. Has the oil been changed regularly? If it's black sludge then it obviously hasn't. Old VWs live or die by their oil. The VW Beetle is somewhat unsafe compared to modern cars. They have the fuel tank in front of the driver and obviously lack ABS, airbags, crumple zones, etc. However, they are made out of steel and fare well for a car of their age and size. The Super Beetle should (they do here in Australia) have disc brakes up front which improve braking considerably. Their suspension also delivers superior roadholding to previous models. Quality tyres are worth the investment. Drive sensibly and safety isn't an issue. - bugmatic

3)   for $900 you probably will have to do a great deal more work on the car than you think. id replace all of the fuel lines and brake lines. chances are the floors and heat channels are somewhat shot. if the motor is dirty thats a good indication that is hasnt been driven for a while and might not run well. replace the fuel pump, drain the gas tank, clean out the carb, adjust valves, change oil, gap plugs, change plug wires, change distributor cap, rotor and points, etc etc. when buying an old bug i have found you never get what you think you are getting. common rust spots are the heat channels, floor under the drivers feet and under the battery, wheel wells, rocker panels, rear luggage compartment, since its a 71 the c-pillar because of the rear window vents. its got a dual port 1600cc 48hp motor. strut front suspension that i would check to make sure the strut mounts are not rusted off, pretty common on supers. if it runs take it for a fast drive, chances are it might have the "super shimmy" almost all supers do. this means you will probably need to rebuild most of the front end.

in my opinion, if you are not mechanically inclined and will be taking your car to the mechanic to do everything from oil changes to tracking down an electrical short, to rebuilding the front end, to replacing the rotted floors DO NOT buy a beetle. you will spend a lot of money trust me. ive rebuild 2 of them and know how expensive it can get doing all the work by yourself that needs to be done on a regular basis. but on the other hand if you plan on working on the car or already have a lot of car experience than offer them 500 for it and see what happens. buy the bug and have it for a few months before you sell your Mazda because the bug might be more of a pit than you think and then you will really be screwed and SOL - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)

4)   For the situation like yours,I would like to suggest you have a look here   www.Autoinsurancepro.info   ,you should find something useful. - George J

5)   That's an old car, and probably a rust bucket. It uses too much fuel for such a small car, it is slow, and it is just a lifestyle car now. There is no point in debating whether it's good or bad, it's not a car choice of the head.

For 900$ though, make sure to check it up properly. It can soon prove to have a bad engine, and the rust problem is almost sure to cost a couple of k to repair.Be careful. - Louis Sullivan


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Question 2
how much would a new exhaust cost for a VW Lupo?...  My exhaust has just dropped off, how much would a new one cost approx. for a VW Lupo. Full exhaust or just tail pipe as the silencer box is still intact

Answers
1)   around 60 to 100 - will

2)   Full - £400 plus
Back end only £200
Quick call to an exhaust repairer £free to £0.10 - Timbo is here

3)   Depends on model, engine size, year, and also where you go.
A back box from GSF will be about £50, a full system from a VW dealer could be £7-800.
The only answer as always is to phone up an exhaust supplier and ask. - EvelynThe ModifiedDog.

4)   If you want the genuine system ring VW as it is a menu item and it will not be £800. - L G


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Question 3
Check engine light keeps turning on, on my 2004 Jetta?...  The check engine light keeps turning on after I've had the oxygen sensor replaced. I've had the sensor replaced 3 times as the light keeps turning on and the shop keeps telling me that that's the only thing that is coming up. I need to get a smog check by then of this month in order to pay my tags but the check engine keeps turning on. After I leave the shop they instruct me to drive the car for 20-25 miles before taking it in for the smog check but the light turns on before I reach the 20 mile mark :/. I recently took it in for the smog check thinking I had driven over 20 miles (light was still turned off) but the smog check did not pass. Any suggestions as to what it could be??? I'm sooooo frustrated, I love my Red Jetta but I'm afraid I may have to start looking for another car.

Answers
1)   Would help to know what the actual code you have is but if it is an o2 code#p0137 and the sensor is replaced but you still have the problem there is a short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors. Other possible causes are air leak, faulty injector, faulty fuel pressure or faulty converter. - billy

2)   You have a bad/failing catalytic converter.

Common issue.

The converter is expensive and I recommend NOT replacing it with an aftermarket unit from experience. - nywholesale

3)   I'm going through a similar problem. I recently replaced my ECT sensor and STILL the light stays on. Nothing seems to be working. I'm starting to think it's common among jettas from reading all the articles on the internet. - Chelsea


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Question 4
What are certain "mods" on Volkswagen's?...  I have a 2004 Jetta gli vr6 and I don't know what APR stage 1, 2, 3.. and so on are.
I've heard its one of the first things most people do to their vw's.
also what is ECU and ECS?
and i also plan on getting a turbo charger as well later in life so what would be a good one?
I would want one that doesnt destroy my car because it is a daily driven car but i want a solid one.
and the last part of my question is in what order of mods should i buy these things?

Answers
1)   You need to go onto a performance VW forum to find out about these "dubious" modifications. I have never ever heard of a VR6 been "blown" in UK but there again anything is possible if enough money is thrown at a project. - L G

2)   Really? Do you have a 6 sp MT? If not get something else.

Don't touch the engine, leave it factory for the next several years.

1. Porsche Boxter S Front Brakes- Bout 2K
2. Bilstein Coil Overs, bout 2K
3. 18's and some serious rubber, bout 2 grand(see a pattern here?)
4. Kickin Stereo- what ever you want to spend.
5. Track Days, learn to drive please. Win a couple Season AutoCross Titles.
6. Now contemplate and engine.

I seriously discourage taking an old car and hotrodding the engine before you do anything else or learn to drive. You need to approach this slowly. I sold a 1962 Chevy II Nova SS Convertible, with a 283 and Power Glide with Camaro suspension and brakes to a kid in 1979 and he killed himself in 2 weeks.
Slow down and learn to drive high performance before you die.

ASE Cert Auto Tech, since 1978, ben tuning VW in IA, CA. GA, and SD since 1976. Drive a 2003 GLI 24V VR6 6 spd MT, SCCA Member since 1978 too - sci

3)   Modding a car without knowing a thing about it is like trying to be a sheff in a 5 star restaurant and cooking recipes from a cook book. You have to learn all those things, and to understand them, before going deeper in that business. - Louis Sullivan


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Question 5
My 2001 vw cabriol, car wont start?...  2001 vw cabriol replaced starter, gas relay, all the fuses are fine, sound like it is about to start, but wont.

Answers
1)   could be an imoobiliser problem, we get a lot of these - ps3pro21

2)   ever tuned up since 2001?
check engine lite on? [it means something]
why did you change starter/
why gas relay [idk what that is]
plugs? wires? - pedro7of9

3)   It could be a number of things, we need more information. Did you check the spark plugs and the coil pack? How did the car run before it stopped starting? - Jim


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