What does this warning light mean on my 2008 VW Jetta?

Question 1
What does this warning light mean on my 2008 VW Jetta?...  It is a cirlce with an explanation point inside with three dashes coming out of the circle on each side in different directions. I lost my owners manual and would like to know what this means. Thank you!

Answers
1)   I'm not exactly sure, but I have a similar warning symbol on my Rav4 that indicates that one of my tires has low air pressure. - Vincent Evangelista

2)   Possibly a light out on front or rear,e.g brake light bulb. Not 100% sure but would assume VW still under Warranty and may fix for free, also they can get you a new owners manual. - Gary

3)   If it looks like this it is a bulb out indicator: http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/blink_amoulthia/warninglight.jpg - gti_4cefed4

4)   Bulb out warning.

How do you lose an owner's manual?

http://www.google.com/search?hl=af&biw=1024&bih=640&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=Jetta+2008+warning+lights (performed a Google Image search with the term "Jetta 2008 warning lights") - Chris


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Question 2
70 vw 1600cc single port Help////?...  i want to upgrade a 70 vw bus engine 1600cc,single port..
;;;;;;;headers,,,solex prog 2bbl carb,,,87pistons,,,,scat c35 cam,,electronic distb
what else do i nead to have running and not overheat the engine

Answers
1)   First thing you want to do is lose the single-port heads. Nothing else matters if your motor can't breathe. It'd be like you trying to snorkel through a soda straw. Get a good set of dual-ports.
Next: swap to a late-style fan shroud with a larger oil cooler, & keep all your cooling tin intact. The Bus motor normally comes with a -050 distributor, which has a retarded #3 lobe, which helps that cylinder run cooler. Stick with it, or convert it to electronic, rather than buying a complete distributor. DO NOT use a 'power pulley". They make your fan run slower, & thus give poorer cooling.
Last: Make certain your thermostat (Yes, they DO have a 'thermostat': It's a bi-metal bellows-looking thing between the 2 even cylinders with a control rod to the shutters) is in good shape, & your fan shroud shutters are working properly.
I've run up to 1850cc without cooling issues. - schizophreniabeatsdiningalone

2)   VW did not make a 70 single port motor they converted to the 1600 dual port heads in 69,if you have a single port intake the motor is a 1200 or 1300, the 1500 and 1600 had dual port heads,the bore size is different and the stroke is different on the single port heads they have a 64 stroke instead of the 69,with 83mm or 85.5 so check out appletreeautomotive.com or cbperformance.com for heads and pistons and changing you point's dist.to electronic ignition.set of forged slip in 87mm piston set is 395.00 heads cost 286 each,cam is 89.00 go with the 110 cam with straight cut gears,and 69mm counter weight crank with 8 dowel pin's.and have the piece of aluminum welded to the back of the block behind number 3 cylinder for more strength,and run an external oil cooler with a fan can get one from summitracing.com for around 145.00. - KAM

3)   First off, by reading the first line of KAM's answer i know not to read the rest. never made a 1970 1600sp???? WRONG. there was only 1 year for 1600sp and that was 1970. in 1969 they still were running 1500cc single ports.

you dont need anything else. just keep oil in it and make sure the thermostat is working properly and all of the engine tins are in place. make sure its timed right and use 30W oil. thats all - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)


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Question 3
What does putting a baja kit, and bigger tires, on an older vw bug do to the mileage?...  I'm looking to get an older vw bug, and I'd really love to put a baja kit and a/t tires on it, but I dont want to sacrifice too much mileage. What would adding that do to it?

Answers
1)   That would be pretty sweet! If you stay with the stock tire size it shouldn't change too much at all. But it all depends on the size tire. The bigger you go the less mileage you'll get and the more wear n tear on your drivetrain. But if you re-gear your differential the tires will turn a lot easier for that small motor which in turn will bring back some MPG's. Hope that helps! - Rob Pelletier

2)   Mileage was not all that hot as you have to drive them wide open most of the time. - doane_nut

3)   The body kit might give you more drag, resulting in an insignificant mileage penalty. The oversize tires would hurt more. They give the illusion of having a taller gear in the car, meaning although your revs are lower at 60, the engine is actually working harder to maintain speed.
Better idea? Stick with tires the same diameter, but are wider & look more aggressive. With the suspension raised, the effect is pretty cool. I actually had a set of H-70-15 (225-70R-15) belted snows on Centerlines on the back of mine for the winter. I run 245-60's in the summer. - schizophreniabeatsdiningalone


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Question 4
how many cars has Volkswagen sold?...  

Answers
1)   well they sold about 22,000,000 air-cooled Beetle's alone. so a fair guess would be 35,000,000 to 40,000,000+ - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)

2)   Today, this month, this year, since the company started building cars? North America, worldwide?

If it's that general, I'll go for all sales across all models and guess upwards of 30 million. - Chris


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Question 5
Where can i find a center console and a few other misc. parts for a 1990 VW Fox?...  I am in need of a center console for a 1990 VW Fox with a 4 speed tranny. I can't find anything anywhere. Or what other VW car parts will fit on a Fox? I aslo need a new glove box door. Thanks.

Answers
1)   local salvage yards or ebay - whata waste

2)   I doubt an junk yards are holding onto those pieces of junk. - doane_nut


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is a 1973 VW Beetle a good car?

Question 1
is a 1973 VW Beetle a good car?...  i'm looking for my first car, and found a 1973 Beetle. it had a nice restored interior and original yellow paint, and little visual rust. do you think this iis a good first car? im worried about maintenance and reliability. what do you think?

Answers
1)   No. By todays standards they are maintenance nightmares and deathtraps.

Why the thumbs down? Air cooled brags about how reliable his VW bug is and then says "every 3000 miles you MUST, change oil and clean oil strainer, adjust valves, adjust carburetor if necessary, adjust brakes, check plug gap, points and condenser, adjust clutch pedal free play if necessary, and some other thing. not to mention you need to check the oil level at least twice a week and add as needed" That's what I call a maintenance nightmare. I have 60,000 miles on my 2008 Chevy and other than changing the oil every 6,000 miles the only thing I have ever done is put gas in it and bought one set of tires.

My Chevy has air bags, anti lock brakes, stability control, and does 0-60 in under 7 seconds. The VW takes almost 16 seconds making it dangerous to even take on the interstate. Get hit in the front in a VW at 20 mph and your probably going to lose your feet if you're lucky enough to survive. Many people walk away from 50 mph collisions in modern cars uninjured. - Howard L

2)   Unfortunately, no. It could be a very hazardous vehicle, the security features that they come equipped with is hardly much by todays standards. You're better of going with something in the 2000s+, and if money is an issue, you can find many cars better then the VW '73 for under $2500.00 (Such as a used Jetta). - Andrew Turko

3)   One reason that the old bugs were so popular was the ease of repair and a ready supply of used parts. In short they are not reliable, however they can be repaired by almost any one who has any mechanical sense.
As for a good first car, yes (provided you don't mind getting your hands dirty keeping it running).
Safety is a big issue!
Some claim Ralph Nader wrote the book "Unsafe at Any Speed" about the VW bug and was forced to switch the car in question from the Bug to the Corvair by the US State Department. These cars have handling quirks when pushed. The gas tank is up front, and leaking gas in a collision is a given. Fuel leaks can result in engine fires more readily because the engine is air cooled.
That said a lot of us outlived our VW bugs in spite of them, because as in all things automotive the primary problem is not the car but the owner/driver. - Old Man Dirt

4)   Old Man Dirt has it spot on! Cheap and easy to run and maintain, easy to modify as it's basically a Posche chassis, and as long as you drive it like a 1973 car and not a 2003 car, you'll be fine! It's a great little car that while not the safest in a high speed crash (not that "high speed" really applies to the Beetle!), is far more fun and unique to drive around in than the copycat little boxes most people choose as their first car! - Neil B

5)   i dont know where these other people get off say they are not reliable. they obviously do not own or drive one everyday, i do. the engine is air-cooled so as long as all the engine cooling parts in place, the engine will NEVER overheat even in 120F weather. parts are cheap and available at any parts store. they are also fun and easy to drive. Since ive owned my 1970 (almost 2 years) ive put about 9300 miles on it. I drove my 1970 bug 300 miles last week. 135 of those miles were continuous, no stopping at all, just driving at 60mph. and its the original 41 year old engine that has never been rebuilt with 82800 miles and running as strong as it did in 1971.

they do require more maintenance than modern cars. and if you dont do it yourself you will be spending a lot of money on mechanics bills. every 3000 miles you MUST, change oil and clean oil strainer, adjust valves, adjust carburetor if necessary, adjust brakes, check plug gap, points and condenser, adjust clutch pedal free play if necessary, and some other thing. not to mention you need to check the oil level at least twice a week and add as needed.

safety features.....well they have seat belts and thats about it. no crumple zones, airbags, roll over protection, reinforced doors power steering, power brakes or disc brakes. you have to drive a bug like you are in a glass car. be equally as defensive as aggressive because a lot of people i encounter on the road dont care that my car is slower, or less safe than theirs, they still cut me off and stop short. just keep an extra long following distance, especially in rain or snow. - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)

6)   No, not the 1973's. That was the first year they put pollution control ducts on the engine, and it was a nightmare.

The VW bugs up until 1970 were pretty good. Sure, they broke down a lot, but they were easy to fix. They don't have oil filters, so you have to change the oil every 1000 to 1500 miles, but that's pretty simple. Just undo the bolt under the engine, let the oil drain, replace the plug, and refill. Simple.
The valves need to be adjusted more frequently because it's an air-cooled engine. Luckily, it's a simple job that can be done quickly, once you get the hang of it. Back when I had my 1970 and 1966 bugs, I could do a complete tune-up (replace 4 spark plugs, condenser, adjust valves) and clean the air cleaner and change the oil in 45 minutes. Of course, the first time I tried, it took me 2 days -- I had completely removed the distributor (don't do this!) and put it back in backwards, lol . . . .

What you need before you buy a VW bug is a copy of the book, "How to keep your VW alive, a Guide for the Compleat Idiot" by John Muir. It'll explain lots of stuff, save you lots of $$$, and keep you rolling.

But anyway, the 1973's were terrible, mostly because of the pollution control devices. It was VW's first attempt to reduce emissions (BTW, my mom had one, so I'm familiar with it). The Feds also had a requirement that the emergency brake be illuminated, so VW put a pitiful little light under the dash pointed right at the yellow plastic handle. The light didn't fix anything, but then you'd have to be pretty dense not to know where the emergeny brake handle was. - David


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Question 2
What should I do to start a 1974 VW bus that hasn't been run in 5 years?...  It is a dual carb engine, and the gas has been sitting in there for at least that long. what should i do to make it run and fix it up? I know this is somewhat vague, but I really just need a first starting point.
thanks.

Answers
1)   Empty the gas from the gas tank, Change the oil, Get a new or god battery, and new air filters. If it dont sart then check the spark plugs and wires and coil - James Smith

2)   First of all does it spin freely? Meaning that you grasp the base of the fan, and turn it.
If it does, the following needs to be done.
-Drain the fuel tank, and have it cleaned
-Replace the spark plugs, coil and wires
-Change the oil
-Clean the carburetors
-Charge/replace the battery
-Change the fuel filter and air filter
-Fill the cleaned tank with fresh gas

Then again, you may need a charged battery, fresh fuel, and that rig may just start, it has happened. - djaca70

3)   Read "Zits" from about a year ago and do what Hector and Jeremy did. - kenny k

4)   Set the e-brake, and put the vehicle in neutral. I'd say first check that the engine has not seized up during that period. You should be able to turn it over by hand using large breaker bar and socket on the fan pulley nut. Ensure the fan belt's in good shape and that the alternator/fan assembly turn and are not seized or blocked from turning freely. Ah- check for critters which may have nested in the engine compartment or fan housing. It's a common thing to happen! Check that the points are set properly and that the fuel the engine is to get is clean and not contaminated with water. Use a freshly charged battery and finally, try to start the engine. You may have to prime the carburetor with a little gasoline.
Good luck! - tennisballeddie


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Question 3
What can i do to improve the performance of my VW Bus?...  I am an owner of a 1970 VW Bus and enjoy driving it however, i am not a mechanic and i wanted to get some opinions things i could do to modify my car to make it run better overall. Suggestions along with an approximate price estimate as to how much it would cost are greatly appreciated, thanks

Answers
1)   New aftermarket camshaft

New aftermarket induction parts (e.g. air filter)

New exhaust system.

Make the van lighter by emoving unneccessary things.

Take it in for a service.

All will improve speed and horsepower. - Ben Cole

2)   all it takes is money, you can add some performance modifications, it depends on what engine you have already, I know years ago they used to sell a big daddy kit for vw that pumped it up into a good strong engine, you can go single or dual cabs, with some exhaust modification that worked well and sounded better. If money is not a problem, there is a Porsche engine that was a bolt in back then. It was aw some it transformed a clattering noisy bus into this whisper quiet vehicle that whooshed past you going up a hill, (which those of us who had buses did not do any whooshing up hills anyway) I will do some checking on line and see what I find out
ADDITIONAL DETAILS
there are a lot of vw parts places, depending on what you are looking for, its a matter of researching what you want. A stock fresh 1,600 would probably work fine, or you can go bigger it all depends on how much cash you wanted to spend. something else I remembered about some older engines was it was a good idea to adjust the valves with each tune up which not every body did. but nowadays you can turbocharge a vw motor and make a real powerhouse out of one. do your research, find some vw forums and talk to the people who have already done what you want to do. best of luck. - roger

3)   Trying to add horsepower will shorten life span, so I don't recommend that.
What I do recommend is moving the oil cooler to an external location, so that you don't preheat cylinder #3 any more.
It also would not hurt to add a spin on oi filter and deep oil sump while you are at it. - Motorhead

4)   Information.

Get yourself a copy of John Muir's book, "How to keep your volkswagon alive, a guide for the compleat idiot" . . . It's a basic guide on how to fix a lot of things that will go wrong with your VW, and is full of info on how to keep it running well.

The air-cooled VW's need frequent oil changes because they don't have oil filters. If you were to make one modification to your bus, adding an external oil cooler and oil filter would be the very best thing you could do. Then, you should learn how to adjust the valves. Sure, it sounds intimidating to a mechanical novice, but keeping the valves properly adjusted is the other very very important thing you gotta do. It the valves are too loose, the engine sounds like it's full of crickets. If the valves are too tight, the engine will overheat and burn up. But once you learn how to do it, the whole process goes pretty quick.

Also, keep in mind that the VW bus wasn't designed as a racing or performance vehicle. Zero - to - sixty isn't supposed to impress anyone; the engines only have about 67 horsepower. You're doing good to climb a steep hill with passengers.

If your heater is still working, you might want to look around in your leisure time and see if you can find replacement heater parts, just to have on hand for when they do go out. Just a thought . . .

Best wishes, - David


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Question 4
2003 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 underpowered?...  Just test drove this car. On the surface it didn't seem too underpowered, but there are a lot of reviews saying the car is "severely" or "horribly" underpowered with the 115 hp engine. I mean, it was a bit slow going up a really steep hill but it seemed to pick up fine and all. I'm mostly going to be in a flat city in a different state, with a few long highway trips throughout the year to go back and forth. I can get a great deal on the car. Should I do it? Will I be able to cruise at 80/85 on the highway?
It's 2.0L Automatic, GLS Trim

Answers
1)   The vintage Beetles that you see people driving around had less than 40HP and they get around fine. Driving a Mico Bus with the same engine and trying to pass a semi-trailer on the highway is another story though! Anyways, the engine is more than enough power to get you around town, and will certainly get up to 85 MPH without any trouble at all. The 2.0L 8V is the most reliable gasoline engine that VW ever produced, while it's not a screamer like the 1.8T or VR6, for the size of a Jetta it works just fine. - gti_4cefed4

2)   gti 4, is correct, however in the tuner crowd, the 2.0 litre is commonly called a "2slow." It'll do the job, albeit slow. - djaca70

3)   Hope this helps! http://addlife.info/190185/just-test - Alene Benson

4)   It will be more than enough power in the city. If you end up doing lots of long trips you might be annoyed with the lack of get up and go for passing! - 12977


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Question 5
Are VW Polos quite cheap to insure?...  I'm looking for my first car, and I know which cars are cheap to insure, but was wondering whether VW polos are cheap to insure, as I seem to be getting quotes ovr £2000 for majority of the cars I'm browsing.
I know that polo's are fairly cheap and reliable and I love them :)
Thanks.

Answers
1)   The polo will not be cheap.....

Best thing to check the price is by going to one of the price comparison sites...
type in all your details as if you had bought the car already and see what prices are quoted..
you are under no obligation to buy .. - Charlie Farley

2)   The base model Polos are fairly cheap as far as they go, but the reason you're getting quotes of £2,000 is that's what it costs for a new driver to insure any car these days.
A Polo will be the same. - EvelynThe ModifiedDog.

3)   i am 19, i have a mk4 6n2 polo 1.0

first year was 2500

second year was 1000

hope this gives you a rough idea.. - LoveLiveLife

4)   VW FOX is a real insurance bargain currently and a very nice small car. I would go for a FOX if low cost insurance is No1. They are as good as a Polo use to be before the Polo's started getting as big as the old Golf use to be (if you get my drift - a FOX is really a modern equivalent of the old model Polos).

This is a really handy web tool: Parkers - Find a car insurance group

http://www.parkers.co.uk/insurance - Rich Tea


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Why are the VW the cheapest of all German cars ?

Question 1
Why are the VW the cheapest of all German cars ?...  i wanna get something used for under $7000, do u recommend this brand?
P.S : dont recommend toyotas or hondas, bored from them !!

Answers
1)   Vw's don't come packed with all the luxury like bmw or mercedes does. - hmmintereseting

2)   It has got smaller cc capacity compared to other models. - M.j Lim

3)   They were made to be cheap :P

I have VW from 1996, and its great. So yes I recommend a VW.

But a toyota is gonna be better, just saying. They last so freaken long. - John F

4)   Its in their tag line, the people's car
Nowadays, its "Das Auto"

Note
VW is also the parent company that owns:-
1. Lambo
2. Audi
3. Bentley
4. Porsche
5. Bugatti
These are not cheap cars, OK.
By the way, the Polos, Jettas and Golf GTi are some of the best cars in Europe. - Spunkiee

5)   There are several reasons:
-They produce at the highest volume (they make more cars than BMW or Mercedes).
-They produce in various countries (Germany, USA, Mexico, Brazil).
-Their cars are engineered and built to a lower standard than Audi or their competition.
-Their volume models are built more cheaply, with a lower standard level of amenities than their premium level competition.

To answer your second question, it depends on where you live. I would not recommend a VW in your price range if you are in the USA and do not have much experience working on cars. Their US models are built in Mexico to a very low standard, and their reliability is very poor. Especially avoid Mark IV Jettas. I have seen far too many problems with these cars to recommend them to anyone. - CH4RL13foxtrot

6)   Because this plant produce car for every one, so it named Volkswagen . - 金双

7)   I have a 99 new beetle and honestly i don't recommend any vw cars. they have so many electrical problems and they are so expensive to fix. you also have to find a great mechanic that specializes in vw

My ignition switch just burnt and because of that my horn, alarm, radio, headlights, daylights, turn signals, and wipers didnt work anymore. It cost $500 to fix

my abs went out at the same time its $1000 to fix that

my radiator fan isnt working its $400 for that

and my a/c isnt blowing cold air and its $920 to fix that

i bought my car for $3200, def not worth it - Jennifer

8)   VW is an inexpensive car because it tries to be reliable instead of constantly changing models and styles, and trying to get every last hp out of it.

But all dealer are always expensive, and what makes VW so great is that there are so many good independent mechanics that you don't have to take it to the dealer.

For example, an ignition switch should be less than $100 to fix.
While ABS costs thousands to fix on most cars, on VW it costs only hundreds.
Radiator fans can be $400 on many cars, but you can get one done on a VW for about $150.
AC can cost thousands on some cars, but on VW it should only cost a few hundred. - Motorhead


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Question 2
what is the towing capacity of my 2001 vw golf TDi?...  
(It's NOT in the manual)

Answers
1)   I can't imagine it being more than like 1000 pounds. - Chris

2)   if you are an experienced driver and have towing experience then it can be as much as the weight of the unladen car. so its probably around a ton, check your handbook. if its a caravan you will tow make sure that you get a stabiliser and only 75% of the car weight is recommended for new towers. - brilock1

3)   Go to Uhaul.com i think they got a rough estimate on how much your car can tow. - Bryan Robles

4)   1,200kg braked trailer or 500kg non braked. - DrkLce

5)   RTFM - it's in there. - Chris


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Question 3
how do i know if my 1974 vw super beetle is overheating?...  i live in tucson az and its in the high 90s. i just bought the vw and not to sure how i would know if its overheating. it runs great just want to make sure i know so if it does i know when and what to do about. any help would be great!

Answers
1)   LIkely not as the engine is air cooled. Just keep a close eye on the oil level weekly and make sure the generator belt is tight. - James M

2)   Hook up an oil temperature gauge. The cooling systems are somewhat fickle on the old air cooled bugs, so you should keep an eye on it.

http://www.type2.com/library/cooling/coolsami.htm
http://www.performancechoice.com/pc.html?frame=5.4553
http://www.upmpg.com/car_clubs/vw.htm - doane_nut

3)   Standard shift? Then don't drive in 4th when you should be driving in a lower gear. The fan is always running blowing air past the piston pots so running in a lower gear will keep it cool as the engine is running faster.(so the fan blow harder)
Always make sure that the crankcase has the correct grade of oil as it is the oil that also reduces the temperature. I have never had an overheating problem and yeah I have been driving in the high 90's(even 125) here, but don't forget the car engine is normally a lot hotter(as it is burning gasoline) in order to run -(even in the winter).

Getting caught in traffic tie ups for long periods of time on a slow idle, will heat up the engine more so. If you can cruise, not a big deal. Leave it as the dealer mechanics set it and make sure the air duct hoses to the dog house are always in good shape and firmly secure. Also that all the sheet metal is in place and that the spark plugs have their boots on to close off the spark plug openings.
And that the V belt that turns over the alternator(or generator) is always in good shape and that you have a spare(as the back of the alternator inside the dog house is the fan)

Your good.

If it overheats(it would be a first) the red oil light comes on on the speedo. At that time either rev the motor so that the oil pressure is increased and the light goes out or shut it down. - Doing the Math

4)   They ran these air cooled engine in the the Sahara Desert with no problem. The air temperature is minor compared to the normal operating temperature, so make little difference.
But the idea of the oil temp gauge was a good one.
I would also suggest adding the kit to relocate the oil cooler, while adding a spin on oil filter.
A deep oil sump is not a bad idea either, as long as ground clearance is not an issue.
The original oil cooler acted like a preheater for cylinder #3, so was not in a good location. - Motorhead

5)   a good quick cheap (free) test is the dip-stick test. if you can take the dip-stick out and hold it in your hand for a few seconds then its not overheating. by that i mean, enough time to pull it out and read the oil level. by that time it will be very uncomfortable and you will want to put it back. thats normal. if you cant even bare to touch it, let alone take it out, its too hot. this is an old VW mechanics trick that has been used for years. or like others say buy an oil temp gauge and sensor and mount it in the oil pressure relief valve in the bottom of the engine, NOT in the oil pressure sensor. - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)


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Question 4
How easy is it to work on an old VW Beetle?...  I am a small engine mechanic (lawnmowers, chainsaws, etc) but I don't have any experience with cars.

As long as I had a good manual, would I be able to do engine/repair work by myself?

Answers
1)   The old veedub flat 4 is about as easy to work on as it is possible to get. Don't bother with the 1200 lump though as the case is physically smaller than the others and it is possible through changing of cylinders/pistons/carb etc to turn a 1300 into a 1641cc with little effort.
There are 2 books I would recommend. "How to keep your Volkswagen alive" by John Muir (informative and funny) and "How to rebuild your Volkswagen aircooled engine" by Tom Wilson (ISBN 0-89586-225-5) - PAUL

2)   go out an buy this book it is called "the complete idiot repair manual for vw's"cost is 34.00,every thing you need to know on how to fix the old Volkswagon bug's. - KAM

3)   how easy? near me there are 2 old guys that restore them. and when i say old i mean old, the one guy is 84 and the other guy 78. they do all the work by themselves. that should put it in perspective for you. all you need is a few metric wrenches and you can take the entire car apart. like the others have said get this...http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step---Step/dp/1566913101/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1308160411&sr=8-1

and this...http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Beetle-Karmann-Official-Service/dp/0837616239/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1308160434&sr=8-7

and you can do it. - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)

4)   That book by John Muir kinda sucks, IMO.

Anyway, come over to thesamba.com and join the forums.
Another great site is vw-resource.com

Very easy to work on and parts prices are still pretty good, just avoid Chinese junk. Good luck - Jay S


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Question 5
what kind of transmission oil for vw beetle 1300?...  i dont have a clue how to change the oil of what oil to put in my volkswagen beetle 1300?
its engine and transmission oils! also how do you change the transmission fluid

Answers
1)   Engine oil or transmission? If I am not mistaken, the transmission takes 30 weight gear oil. As for the engine, you drain the oil, clean the strainer, replace the gasket, and fill it with the about six or so pints of 10W30 or 10W40 Dino (not synthetic) motor oil. - djaca70

2)   The transaxle has large 19 mm indented hex plug that you need a large allen wrench for.
One on bottom for draining, and one on the side for filling.
It uses the same as any car of that period, with is 80w90 hypoid gear oil.

The engine works best with 20w50 engine oil. I prefer Castrol. - Motorhead

3)   yeah drain for oil is on bottom of transmission and the fill plug is on the left side of the transmission (as you look at the engine from the back)

any 80-90W is good for the transmission

as for the engine VW recommended using 30W oil. i use Castrol HD SAE30 - Air-Cooled (o\ ! /o)


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Whats the "safe code" to get my VW stereo to work?

Question 1
Whats the "safe code" to get my VW stereo to work?...  I bought my 2006 VW Passat 2.0T in 2006 with its origional stock 6 CD changer Stereo in it. About a month after I bought a new Pioneer Navigation System GPS and had it installed and saved the stock stereo incase I wanted to sell it or put it back in later. Well my sister's dad is as blind as a bat and wanted to put himself to use and clear all the "junk" out of the garage, and threw out my pretty much brand new stereo. Now, I plan on re-selling my car and getting something else, I bought a stock stereo from someone who actually put a nav just like mine in his 2005 VW Golf I think it was. But now that Ive taken my car to replace with that VW stereo, it needs a code to have it work.

Does anyone know this "safe code", or what I can do to get it so it works in my 2006 Passat?

Answers
1)   Why would there be a "safe code", then there would be no point to having a unique code for each radio. - doane_nut

2)   The code is set to something different on each radio installed, so there is no way anyone can tell you what it is. Your original one could be looked up either in the owner's manual or in the dealer's records, but you have a different one now anyway.

However, there is a solution. The code can easily be reset to something different. Anyone selling that brand of radio can do it. And VW is not the best place to do that. If the radio is Blaupunkt for example, then a radio installer who sells Blaupunkt would be the one to do to. VW does not make their own radios. - Motorhead

3)   What you need to do, is go down to the VW dealer, and have them run a VAG-COM on it. It's going to cost some bills, but that is the only way. Didn't the seller of the stock stereo give you the code? - djaca70

4)   Mm...Here you are. http://liwu.info/61045/cd-changers - Mary Campos


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Question 2
VW 1600 MOTOR ISSUES?...  My buggy has a VW 1600 engine and it does not run smooth. I have a rebuilt carb, new spark plugs, wires,new distributer, new fuel filters, new fuel lines, adjusted the valves, checked the timing, completely re-wired everything....and this motor still runs horrible. I have to push the throttle all the way to get into first gear, then 2nd gear pops and crackels, and I havent gotten beyond that. The Carb has been adjusted and for some reason it feels like it is starved of fuel. We checked the fuel lines and there is pressure and the fuel pump works great. After all this work, we cant figure out why it runs horrible. Any Suggestions?
The firing order is correct. We checked the many times just in case. The Carb was rebuilt by a friend. We checked for vaccum leaks and there were none. I have not tried the fuel pressure test, so I will check that out. Any other suggestions? Why would 2nd gear pop and crackle so much when 1st gear doesnt?
The distributor is a BOSCH with adjustable advance/mechanical weights. Its Solex carb 34 pic -3. The engine is a 1978 or 79. We adjusted the timing and it advances 8 degrees. We were told that is good.

Answers
1)   Make sure the wiring on the coil (the little ones) are not reversed. Check engine vacuum to see if it is normal and actually measure the fuel pressure with a gas to see what it reads. Who rebuilt the carb and are you sure that it is really functioning as it should?

A clue a clue!!! Second gear popping and crackling at a higher rpm might indicate that the timing is advancing too far too fast or maybe not at all. Is this an aftermarket distributor with an adjustable advance/mechanical weights or vacuum can? If its a canister undo the vacuum line to the distributor and plug it and see what happens when you drive it. If it gets better check your advance curve or for something wrong with the distributor if nothing changes make sure that that line is actually pulling enough vacuum to move the advance mechanism in the distributor.

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You may have identified the problem and 6-8 would be good for the mechnical advance but the total timing needs to be around 28-32 adjusting up or down for a balance between performance and engine ping. Check out the below procedure for an 009 distributor and make adjustments if/as needed and let us know how it turns out.

Rob's 009 Timing Procedure
First, set the maximum advance with a timing light -- engine speed at least 3000 rpm (see the Strobe Timing Procedure). Try 30 degrees at 3000 rpm first, and let the idle timing fall where it may.

Note: Maximum advance is much more important than idle advance. For the aircooled VW engine and 009 distributor, the maximum advance MUST be between 28 and 32 degrees at 3000+ rpm. The 009 distributor is usually set at 3000+ rpm because it produces its maximum advance at 2600-2700rpm. Setting the maximum advance timing at 3000+ rpm ensures that it's "all in." If the engine pings/detonates at 32 degrees, then use 30 degrees or even 28. Never less than 28 degrees or the engine will be grossly under-advanced at high rpms.

If the maximum advance timing is set at less than 28 degrees, it will be under-advanced at high rpm and result in overheating. Overheating certainly puts an extra load on the head and it's components, especially the already very hot exhaust valves.

Once the maximum advance has been set, you can turn the engine off and determine the STATIC timing (see the Static Timing Procedure) and use THAT setting for statically timing THAT distributor in the future. The static timing using this method is commonly between about 5 and 10 degrees BTDC, but I have seen reports of up to 16 degrees BTDC, since these distributors DO vary in the total advance they can make.

Run the vehicle, and try some high speed and lower speed high acceleration runs. If it runs fine, you've got it right. If it pings a bit, or has a flat spot on acceleration, try backing off the maximum advance to say 28 degrees, and try again.

So the bottom line for 009 distributor timing is that maximum advance timing is much more important than idle timing. The spec 7.5 degrees BTDC MIGHT be right for some 009 distributors, but not necessarily for all. We have heard of 009 people with a maximum advance of 26 degrees; that would indicate that THAT 009 distributor should be set at around 10-12 degrees BTDC at idle so the maximum advance will be in the 28-32 degree range - SlightlyDusty

2)   make sure your plug wire's are in the right firing order - bill

3)   Have you checked the compression? That will tell you kind of shape the engine is in.
What kind of carb, stock, if it is, throw another on it see if there is any difference. Make sure the hot wire goes to the + side of the coil, Negative goes to distributor
If stock distributor, make sue the retard isnt hooked up
It could be a lot of things, but as long as the valves are good, the carb sounds like the culprit
Make sure the lil electric gas shutoff below the carb isnt screwing up, I usually just take it out, clip off the end that goes into the intake, and screw it back in the hole. Also look down in the throttle body make sure the accelerator pump is squirting right into the hole as you pump the throttlel - onlyoldiron4me

4)   It is not likely fuel pressure because it does not take much to run smoothly in second.
More likely it is something like a bad condenser. But there are so many things it is hard to say.
But you need to be more specific, such as what years, type of distributor, type of carb, etc.
If it is a 70 - 75 distributor, it has 2 vacuum lines to it, and has to be dynamically timed, or statically timed at 17 degrees before TDC.
The idle jet should click when you unplug it.
The choke must have a good vacuum unloader diaphragm and heater, or else if could close up on you.
A bad leaking vacuum advance diaphragm could also cause this problem, and you can test for leakage by sucking on it, or seeing a lack of 32 degrees advance with a timing light, (you get about 16 degrees from vacuum advance, and 16 from centrifugal).
A centrifugal advance spring missing will also cause timing to bounce all over the place. - Motorhead


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Question 3
Should i buy this jetta? pleople who know vw?...  Its a 2001 jetta 4cyl automatic, its fully loaded and strictly maintaned, it is in the best condition I've ever seen as far as body and interior go. Leather, heated seats. Alarm and automatic windows, it recently had the timing belt replaced professionally and its sounding great.. one owner w all paperwork for ownership and maintenance... buut the kicker is that it has 187k miles on it... I can get it for 2000, and its from a friend of my mothers that I know takes excellent care of her cars... but im asking someone who knows vw's or jettas themselves, and any knowledge about the 2001 model. Is this with it? How much longer does the car have? I only put like 8000 a year on my cars so is this worth buying or am I going to have major issues right away?

Answers
1)   Sounds good, and I hope that was the second timing belt service, because the interval is every 65-70K miles. That service should have had the rollers, tensioner, coolant (G12), water pump, and thermostat with it. To be on the safe side, have it looked at by a VW tech. - djaca70

2)   If you only drive 8,000 miles a year, you should be fine for a while. VW's really do last a while, and even if it has 200k miles, 2000 bucks is a pretty fair price for a vw. Good gas mileage too. - Trey

3)   A properly maintained car can run basically forever.
The problem with some cars is that they maintenance has been deferred so it costs more to catch up, then the car is worth.
But this sounds like a good deal.
I would suggest finding an independent mechanic rather than a dealership, since they work harder to satisfy your long term requirements. - Motorhead

4)   Sounds like a steal. Go for it, beautiful car. But like the other guy said it may be due for another timing belt water pump service. Factor this into the cost because some shops charge $1000 for this service. The only real weak spots I can tell you about for this car are the transmission (below average life expectancy) and a high maintenence ignition system (notorious for ignition control module/ coil failer). Don't let this discourage you. It sounds like a really great deal. - TURTLELY ENOUGH


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Question 4
My 69 volkswagen gear for stuck?...  MY dad was driving, and he was reversing and the gear got stuck in R. Than we opened the screws, took the gear out, and he says the thing with the gear where the gear fits in came up. And the little pins are lost too. What do i do, and where might have the pins fallen?

Answers
1)   Into your bag of weed. - doane_nut

2)   New Tranny! Haha, but most likely if you have little problems like that I'd just get a new one at the junkyard, it's a common problem with VW's. - Zack

3)   The "automatic stickshift", in a 69 Beetle, is actually just a 3 speed manual transmission with the vacuum operated automatic clutch.
You should probably not have opened up the shifter cover plate in order to fix it.
It was most likely a problem with the clutch servo leaking, or was a mismatch of the non-syncho reverse gear. The solution would have been to try turning the engine off to shift, and to try rocking the car slightly.

But to fix the shifter, there is only one pin on the front of the shifter, and its purpose is just to prevent the stick from rotating. The pin is inexpensive, and any dune buggy shop will have them. However, it would have fallen into the tunnel, and can be retrieved with a magnet. There are small access plates at both ends of the car. One is in front under the gas tank, and points forward, held on by 2 bolts, side by side. The other access plate is held by one screw, and is under the rear seat.
Don't call the shift selector stick a gear, because that will really confuse people.
And be very careful with it, because if this really is an automatic stickshift, there is a clutch switch contact with a wire to it, that goes into the base of the stick. It has to be adjusted. And the wire has to be treated carefully.

The link shows an image of the standard bug shifter. The single pin in the front is the same, and I believe it goes through a hole and is peened on the other side to hold it in. But you could use the pin from a standard shifter. You can't use the whole shifter because the automatic stick shift has a switch in it, near the base. - Motorhead


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Question 5
What does this icon on my Volkswagen dashboard mean? (pic included)?...  http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/img0078kc.jpg/

Answers
1)   It means your windshield washer reservoir needs to be filled. - Mr. Smartypants

2)   You need to refill your windshield washer fluid, look under the hood, small, blue, circular lid, should have the same logo on it.
go to autozone and get yourself some fluid and fill that baby up! =) - BZK


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