should i get a Mercedes-Benz or VW tdi?

i dont know what to get the vw new but the benz just looks so good i wand the room and save gas off the vw but benz is at a good price and its a benz

Asked by: turtle @ 2009-07-06 01:32:58

Answers ::
the mercedes

Tom

go for benz dude ,,.as it has a good resale value,.,.

Frank

I should go with VW tdi... a lots of modification thing and accessories as well..

car guru

The Mercedes. The ride quality is far superior ... every aspect of it, engine acceleration, braking, shock absorbers and sound proofing too.

I got a VW, I followed my instincts and I am in love with it!

Octy a.k.a Octane★97

Get a Jetta TDI and a Jetta Sportswagon TDI for the price of the Mercedes. The VW TDIs retain a lot of their value. You can use the Jetta for work and the Sportswagon for the weekends.

Coqui Rabioso

I drive Mercedes and love it but I feel that a new Car is always preferable.
Repairs can become a headache.

Ingrid

Yea i have to agree the Benz is a one time deal but if you get a VW you i recommend you get the Vw gti 2006 the car's unique styling, top-notch interior, outstanding powertrain, and athletic handling all make this turbocharged sport hatch well worth it. If you want more information check out the link

Alex

I found a 2005 jetta 40,000 miles for 4,800, is it too good to be true?

I found a 2005 jetta for 4,800 on craigslist for sale. Only has 40,000 miles and is in perfect condition. Is it too good to be true? Is it a scam?

Asked by: Kim @ 2009-07-06 00:07:54

Answers ::
dealer sale or private seller? It could be something wrong with the engine. I go in this honda dealer and a 2007 honda civic with 20 mile and cost $15,000 and I look in the car and test run it, the engine sound weird. So if u buy that car TEST IT OUT FIRST!! or u lose your money

ShadowMuffin

go see it that will tell you everything

jim m

If it is a private seller than I would say BUY IT! It could be that it is paid off and they are just trying to rid of it. When you go to look at it, make sure you test drive it, listen for noises and look to see if there are any warning lights on the dash (i.e. Check engine light). Ask the owner for all maintance receipts.
If it is a dealer selling it then I would say there has to be some kind of catch. Maybe just give the dealer a call and ask why the Jetta is below Kelly Blue Book value.

I hope this helps!!

Kassy B

1. Make sure the car does not have a Salvage title.

2. If it does, check why. If it was only for cosmetic repairs it is a good buy.

3. Get a Carfax Report it is cheap and it would be well worth it.

Coqui Rabioso

Let us give you our experience with our 2005 Jetta.
My wife says its the best car I've ever bought her. Period.
The Jetta has 77K miles and has never once needed a repair.
I agree with all the other answers, though. Have the car checked out before buying.

fenton

Get the vin and run a carfax report. One look at the brake peddle will give you a clue.

convexed

Synthetic oil in VW vans?

Friend has a 1976 VW Transporter-van. It's the usual 4-cyl air cooled engine. I think he uses 30W oil in it. He's scared to use anything else, because he says the oil in an air-cooled engine need to protect even moreso because it has to deal with all the excess heat that an air-cooled engine will have, as compared to water-cooled.
But I wonder if synthetic oil can be used, and if it would help it over normal single weight. Synthetic oil is lots thinner but it also offers less friction, which would reduce heat a little. Synthetic or even synthetic blend has worked great in my own Toyota, and I keep suggesting it to him for his air-cooled VW engine.

Asked by: tlworkroom @ 2009-07-06 07:58:38

[Best Answer]Although it's not too much different than conventional, I am strict about using conventional in both my Beetles (1973 and 1956) and my 67 Transporter. Synthetic is only pretty recent, so I'd stick to what was availible at the time of production. Pretty much the same reason I use a lead additive in my gas.

By : Prime @ 1246917999

Answers ::
Synthetic can be used

totallysweet12

Synthetic oil is NOT thinner than conventional oil. 5w30 Conventional and 5w30 synthetic oil are both 5w30, which is the viscosity, or thickness, of the oil. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a given temperature, usually around 0 degrees Celsius. The second number is the viscosity of the oil at 100 degrees celsius or 215 degrees fahrenheit. He should use a 10w30 synthetic oil because it will transfer heat better and if you start the engine with it being around 75 degrees F outside, the oil is already almost a 20 weight (shear resistance/viscosity), which means that it only takes a short while before the oil is a 30 weight anyways. The only reason 30 weight is used in that van is because multi-grade weights weren't available during the time the vehicle was manufactured. Having the oil at a thinner weight on startup will reduce "dry start" where the oil pump has to work harder and longer to push a 30 weight oil up into the valvetrain. That's why engines tick when you first start them if you have thick oil. I doubt you'll find a 30 weight synthetic, so go with the 10w30.

Adrian

Viscosity is just that .. a measure of the thickness and density of the medium.

30 wt oil is just that 30wt.. regardless of its nature (synthetic or 'natural'), so there is no difference in that regard.

It is a better lubricant, but it is also much more expensive. The engine relies on the oil to not only lubricate it but also to provide coooling, so the cleanliness of the engine oil is more important in this regard. Since your engine should have its oil changed monthly to maintain this clean nature and therefore to extend its life, the added expense of the synthetic oil is not justified by the results.

..

ca_surveyor

Oil seals in an older engine of any make of car are made for oil. Not syn. That would just cause the vehicle to leak.
He is freaking out about nothing(air vs water cooled). Motorcycles, airplane engines, lawn mowers, chainsaws, and the like are air cooled.
Water cooled run at 160 to 180 degrees(depending on the thermostat) and that is the "coolant" to cool the motor. Outside air is never that hot not even in Arizona. 30W is just fine for that motor especially in the summer months. In the winter if you live in the land of snow & ice and minus temperatures running 20W straight would be better to use(as the cold weather thickens up the oil)making it harder to start if it was parked outside without a block heater.
New cars are using lighter grades of oil syn or regular(5W-20) instead of 10W30,
"But" that may be due more to a more efficient oil pump. For longevity of the engine, time can only tell.
He has 34 years on his car...I have 2 on mine. Will it last with the thin oil or will I have to downgrade to a thicker oil to keep the engine alive as time goes on and parts wear out.
As for the reduction of friction with oil. Not applicable in the case of oil as oil is a lubricant. Friction is not the issue, it is the energy required to move the lubricant by the oil pump and the sloshing of the con-rods in the oil pan bath. >As an example... It is easier for you to walk thru water hip height than it is to walk thru mud hip height; idea.<the difference of oil thicknesses>>only really measurable in January at -25 degrees with 30W motor oil. Otherwise, next to nothing to measure.
If you have no oil, that would give metal to metal contact or 100% friction(air is a lousy lubricant) =more heat =engine seizure - as metal parts actually weld together. So, super thin oil is almost like no oil. Metal parts are closer together so there is the occasional contact on the microscopic"high surfaces" which get knocked off(meaning engine wear)- that is why you change oil-to get rid of these metal particles. So the particles don't circulate around and around and speed up the wear of softer parts such as seals, bushings and the like.
He is doing fine just as he is doing.
Regular oil would probably work just as fine on your Toy. too (unless it is specifically stated to "use syn.oil only" Then they have oil seals made of materials suitable only for syn. oil. There is no 50/50 seal.

Multi-grade oils have more detergents in them than straight weights. At the time of VW coming into production, there was no multigrades. Old Chevs and Fords were running straight weights as well.
VW never got around to changing the owners manual as the engine never really changed.
As both were available one could use either 10W30 or 30W straight(however VW stuck with recommending what proved to work) and that was straight weight.
Besides, I do not know what the hoopala is about in keeping the engine internals clean.....it is not like I am going to eat dinner out of a crankcase(or deliver a baby into it).
Sludge build up happens to older engines. Oil changes be done regularily to keep the sludge at bay longer.
But I have seen people who come in with their old Merc pickup truck that still has its original oil 5 years later. They never changed it. Basically grease in thickness. That is sludge in the extreme.

My Work Here is Finished

Although it's not too much different than conventional, I am strict about using conventional in both my Beetles (1973 and 1956) and my 67 Transporter. Synthetic is only pretty recent, so I'd stick to what was availible at the time of production. Pretty much the same reason I use a lead additive in my gas.

Prime

Synthetic oil will ruin that engine. Synthetics are designed to reject heat and as such they do not transfer heat as well as conventional oil. The oil will not be as efficient at cooling this motor. Switching to a multi-viscosity oil would also be unwise. Multi-viscosity oils have detergents in them. After all these years of non detergent single viscosity you can bet there is some sludge build up in there.Switching would start to remove this sludge and leave it suspended in the oil. Remember this engine does not have a conventional filter to remove these sludge particles.It has a screen style filter.Thus all that sludge would then be circulating thru the engine increasing wear.

convexed

Would it be possible to convert a early 60's model VW bus to electric?

I'm looking at starting a project car, and I would like an early 60's model VW bus. I'm wondering though if it would be possible to put an electric motor in it? Maybe "possible" isn't the right word. Anything is possible, right? "Logical" or "sensible" might be better.
Even better than just electric, what about electric with a small gasoline motor as a back up? Something that could be great for long distance road trips. Would their be weight distribution issues? I'm not looking at going 100% original with it (obviously) I want something cool and relatively modern out of the thing. But I do want something that I could actually afford to drive. Something that gets 25 mpg as opposed to 8 mpg. LOL!
Note : When I say project car, I use the term lightly. I'll be outsourcing all the mechanic work for sure. I'll only do minor cosmetic stuff... I don't have the time, or the knowledge to really do it myself. I'm a 19 y.o girl. And although I have worked with cars in the past (rebuilt a few V8's, and helped rebuild a '48 Dodge pickup *actually doing the work, not outsourcing*) I just don't have to patience or time to actually do it all myself.
Thanks for the answers so far guys!!! You're really helping me out!!!

Asked by: raniabrawner @ 2009-07-06 21:08:03

Answers ::
A VW bus would make a good platform for an electric vehicle, as there is a lot of room for the batteries. But an early VW bus is a collectors item, would you want to reduce the value of a collectible? Also, the VW bus will get about 25mpg without doing any modifications.

Shane A

Yes. This would be an excellent platform for an electric conversion. There are already several adapter plates and hardware kits available for electric motor swaps onto a VW transaxle. There's plenty of room for battery packs inside but the problem is the lack of technology available for the home car builder as far as electrics go. Log onto Car & Driver web site and see if you can find the article that they wrote a few years ago about the electric race cars. These were all home built units and would run like stink. Most of the 'bugs' had been ironed out of the engine swaps and the people involved with the sport would likely be more than happy to provide you with all the technical data they have for your project.

PS -- consider swapping the old VW engine for a modern Subaru unit. It will cost less in the long run and you will certainly hit the 25 mpg mark if done properly. A good source for information is Kit Car Builder magazine or web page.

Good luck.

Cowboy Bill

you can do most anything you want with these things. the van would have lots of extra room to play with it true. but all the money and labor that you would spend to make an electric van would be vast for sure. people have many theories to offer when it comes to why regular gas engines still dominate small vehicles but really its simple; gas is cheap and gas engines are cheap too. its unlikely you will get better performance for your money doing things like hybrids/electrics. fix up the boxer 4 banger in that old van and it might get 25 mpg and probably will cruise at 60 mph+. if you want to build an e car don't let anyone here stop you but realize what you are getting into. its hard to get enough battery in a car for long distances even if you have money to blow. id stick with a gas engine myself stock or modded.
edit: i like that idea cowboy, a newer subaru engine would be very nice. i wonder if a 90s liquid cooled one from a legacy would work...
-i did think of one other thing too. if you want something very unusual you could look into building a gas engine with a "bi fuel system" most such engines are basically gasoline engines with water injection added on. this type of engine was used at least by one maker of bus back in the days when the octane # of gas was very low like less than 50. it allowed the use of a higher comp ratio and therefore better fuel economy/power. it was very valuable also during the second world war in large piston aircraft engines. with water lower min fuel consumptions are often possible, max power can be increased, and very low octane fuel can be used at high comp/supercharging. corrosion is the biggest problem usually and there is much complication to be had. just thought id throw it out there though.

adiabaticfire

Manraj D

Money can do anything

adrian

Who here hates the New Beetle?

I hate it. Who the hell would want a watercooled, front engine, front wheel drive, unreliable Beetle that costs $18K? It is everything that the original was not. The good old ones are very easy to fix, very reliable, cheap (they were an inflation-adjusted $9500 almost every year), fun to drive, aircooled, rear wheel drive, good in the snow, rear engine, no frills, etc. Isn't that literally the exact opposite of the New Beetle? I hate that hunk of junk that is nothing more than a redesigned Golf and a car that does not live up to its name.

Asked by: Prime @ 2009-07-06 06:55:49

Answers ::
It was redesigned for teenage girls. Volks already had the golf for teenage boys, they wanted to cover the whole market.

Maybe you should make it your life's work to go around bashing it.

Or maybe you should just not buy one.

BFH

im with ya...they are junk overpriced fakes.. went to a car show this weekend,,,there were several old bugs...cool but there was a bunch of PT cruisers... why,,,why,,,why,,,the owners were soooo proud of the under powered stock piles of $hit...go figger

pedro7of9

The new Beatles, like most late-model Volkswagens, are complete garbage and built in Mexico. Riddled with flaws that VWoA refuses to put TSBs on. My mother's 2005 VW DROPPED the transmission when the trans mounts gave out and a week later her heater core decided to piss all over the place AT 30K MILES! And she had bought it new. I would take a shoddily assembled Ford built in Mexico before I'd buy a VW. Working in the automotive repair and additionally the parts industry, I can assure you that their build quality is very poor.

Adrian

We drove a 1999 New Beetle for abt. 90,000 reliable , fun-filled miles. Never once did the car let us down.
My wife and I know of 3 other New Beetles driven by friends that report all good things about their cars.
I also had 1972, 1963 1975 old Beetles too. Absolutely great cars.
IMO, there is room for both on the road.

fenton

Is a VW Farenheit GTI any faster than a normal VW GTI?

Asked by: Dylan @ 2009-07-06 08:55:38

Answers ::
No. It just have some extras and a unique color and unique rims. The engine is the same.

Coqui Rabioso

not at all. the Fahrenheit was a regular gti with a special color and interior trim. nothing was special engine wise and they came automatic only. so if you don't mind paying a ton of extra money for a color and a little plate that says x number of 5 thousand, go ahead and waste it.

awdwannabe

Nope. It's still amazing though.
I absolutely love mine.

Alex

In reality, no faster. But the 'hot' paint sure makes it look that way...
I saw one at dealership and compared the price to my new GTI. The Farenheit was only abt $500 more than mine.
Reasonable price IMO.

fenton

No its not faster. but i looks so much better speacially the interior. and yes they did come in Manual transmissions i know we wrecked one. lol ;]

adrian

how do i get the alternator out of a 1969 volkswagen?

Asked by: MELANIE @ 2009-07-06 07:42:57

Answers ::
First Get the big nut off the fan. Collect the shims and nut. Next release the 4 screws from the front that holds the alt (generator) to the fan housing. Slide forward. Get the 2 nuts off that big piece from behind. Where it is secured to the gen/alt. This will release the generator from the big plates. -Don't loose any shims hanging off the back of the generator.

Or- drop the engine and pull the dog box and it will come off fan and all/

williamM

You have no alternator you have a generator.

convexed

disconnect the wires but be sure to mark theres location.

remove the 4 screws holding them to the fan shroud.

remove the clamp holding the gen/alt to the generator stand..

then it should slid right out of the shroud along with the fan.

if it wont comeout all the way then you need to loosen the fan shroud from the cylender tin on the passenger side so that the right side comes up 1-2 inches to give proper clearence

then if you need to remove the fan just take it to mechanic if you cant get the nut off.

Jack D

Here is a step-by-step procedure for removing your Alternator or Generator. You have a 69 so it maybe a generator. Simple way to tell is if the pulley is bigger than the charging unit, its a generator. If the charging unit is bigger than the pulley, its an alternator. The reason why I say that is because if you replace a generator, you MUST polarize it. If you have an alternator, you do not have to. Either way, this procedure works for both:

http://www.vw-resource.com/alternator.html

Also here is a link to polarize the generator if you have one:

http://www.vw-resource.com/alternator_generator.html#polar

vwbuggin64

volkswagen Chat - Mods and Repairs

Tuesday, July 7, 2009