How reliable are Volkswagen Polo's? 10 points!!!!!!!!!!!!?

How reliable are Volkswagen Polo's? 10 points!!!!!!!!!!!!?

Thinking of buyig a 1995 polo 1.0, with 12 months MOT, car seems a good little runner, just wondering whether volkswagen is a reliable make and whether any one has had any good/bad experiences. Thanks

Asked by: Mummi to Lacey.....♥ @ 2009-06-01 13:14:23

Answers ::
Volkswagen Polo, i think it's very good but you said 1995 try to find +2000 reg. much better

msam02

Volkswagens are one of the top makes out there , what ppl complain about is the cost of parts or repairs but those vehicles also are very durable and quite lasting vehicles too.


Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way their also built with extra safety features for collisions etc too.I'd try calling up a dealership and finding out if any recalls or service bulletins exist for that model and year.

helpful bob

Hi There a good car with a good engine. Electrics can give trouble I had an 1998 polo and in the 3 years I had it didn't cost me much to maintain it

donagh

I had a Polo for 5 years, no major problems until I crashed it :(

David P

front suspension top mountings and poor brakes are main faults.ancient engines.boring cars but quite reliable

caegale@btinternet.com

All VW's are good cars, the polo is a nice, cheap to run, reliable little car.
The only thing's to check on the car is the service record and the body for rust.
Ja.

jason c

If you buy a 14 year old car, described as a good little runner, expect some problems. whilst VWs are quite good for reliability they were never meant to last more than 10 years.
Reliable or not there are some parts, like rubber hoses, seals and belts for example, that deteriorate due to time and not miles so expect trouble with these.
You could get a year or two without problems but in reality there is a high chance of problems every month.

Timbo is here

It's 14 years old. How reliable it will be now depends entirely on how well it's been treated in its life.
Generally VWs are OK reliability-wise, but check a car this old out thoroughly before you buy. (for no more than about £500)

EvelynThe ModifiedDog.

VW BUG QUESTIONS: I am buying a 1970's bug and had a few questions for the VW fanatics out there...?

One of my top choices is(http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1192240595.html)
First of all, anything I should know about owning a 70's beetle?

Secondly, I was wondering how long these will run. This car already has 136XXX miles, so I need to know what they usually go to.

Also, the engine (1600cc dual port) has 40XXX miles, is this engine about to break?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1192240595.html

Ummm, what kind of tools/experience do you need to "tinker" with a bug?

Once I buy that book am I going to realize that you need to know alot about cars already for it to make any sense?
This is my first car, I am 16, got my liscence yesterday, I know NOTHING about cars. Do I want to take this on, or should i just get a honda? (:

Asked by: Ethan @ 2009-05-31 23:05:45

[Best Answer]Good questions hopefully we can match them up with some good answers.

ONE: first off, you can easily buy and replace almost all parts of a bug except the frame and, to some extent, the floor pan so your first step is to check that. If it is rusted thru or the paint is bubbling, then you are in for a lot of body work. If the frame is rusted thru or seriously weak, forget it. It is a parts car. Check the floor pans under the front seat mats and under the rear seat. Has the battery rotted thru the floor. Not a tough fix but it gives you an idea about how well the car was maintained Check the front end for evidence of a head-on. Its hard to straighten out a bug.. not impossible but tough. After that its the little stuff. The engine and tranny can always be replaced and the rest is just parts. There is one notable exception. The 73 and 74 bugs had a serious problem with drainage under the rear window on the left and right side because some genius at the factory decided that a little foam was needed inside the car to reduce drafts. The foam would clog up leaving a puddle of water and eventually body rot. It is an expensive repair... if the car has that rust think twice about it.

TWO If it is a 1970's car, 136k sounds low.. That means it only drove 4,000 miles a year. Thats on the low side unless this was someones second car. BUT.. dont worry.. with routine maint. and no disasters you can get 400 to 500k out of them. An engine with 40k is just getting started, if the oil is changed regularly and the valves are spot checked at least twice a year

THREE: Tools: Buy yourself a complete set of metric sockets, and wrenches, a $20 hydr. jack, and a set of car ramps (to help change the oil.).. thats about it for specialized tools. With those you can even change an engine. (have a hammer, screwdrivers, and pliers handy too) BUT.. your tool box should also have a spare spark plug, FAN BELT (really important), and gloves (that engine is HOT), a dozen or so extra fuses (toss those in the glove box) and most important, a HOW TO KEEP YOUR VW ALIVE type book.. (get it at a used bookstore or off eBay.. worth its weight in gold).

FOUR: Skip the honda.. get the bug.. you will not believe the people that smile and wave at you.. ... Think about it for a second.....when is the last time YOU waved or smiled at a honda?

.

By : ca_surveyor @ 1243869872

Answers ::
Your link has apparently expired.
However, VW Bugs will run forever. There are parts houses (catalog and on line) with enough material available you could build a new car from the tires up. Milage on the car is meaningless - and I would seriously question that 136K as being accurate. Milage on the engine and tranny are important - but 40K on a well-maintained bug is nothing to get excited about.
First things first - you need to buy Muir's book on VWs. This is the bible. http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Your-Volkswagen-Alive-Anniversary/dp/1562614800
VW's require constant tinkering and maintenence. You don't just drive one - you live the experience. For those bitten by the "bug", the messing with the car is part of the pleasure of owning one. Don't get one if you don't like getting your hands dirty.
By the way, when my daughter was 16 I bought her a 73 Super Beetle for Christmas - I paid $250. With my direction and supervision, SHE rebuilt the front suspension (the reason the car was so cheap), front and rear brakes, and the clutch. She learned to change oil and do her own tune-ups, including the all-important valve adjustments. Later, she and I rebuilt and swapped out the engine going up to a dual-carbbed 1776. When her income was good enough to buy a new car, she sold the bug for $1200.

Michael R

Ralph Naders book on them was not very complimentary

Zimmer

Avoid buying sight unseen, especially from "C -list" too many ripoffs out there. Only purchase after seeing in person and having a mechanic inspect the car, especially one that old

not 2 B fooled

That's a pretty good deal. The only problem is that the speedometer cable is broken, which means the exact mileage can't be guaranteed. Most Beetle's are like that anyway, but having guaranteed mileage does bring up the value. It has roughly 40K on the rebuild, which is good. It seems to be for the most part stock, which is very good. You never want to buy one that's more than 20% customized because you aren't guaranteed anything. You got yourself a good find. Be sure to take it for a spin before you buy it. It is normal for them to putter and stall at idle when it hasn't been running for a day or so, but this only lasts for the first mile or so. Look for rust. Be sure to check the oil at least once a week; although they are designed to burn oil, it may burn a little extra. Have fun with it. They are very cheap and easy to keep running, and a little work will enable you to bring it to shows. Try to return it to completely stock, because that will bring the value up a bit. Keeping it stock is always very good for the value, as customizing it pretty much destroys its value.

Prime

Good questions hopefully we can match them up with some good answers.

ONE: first off, you can easily buy and replace almost all parts of a bug except the frame and, to some extent, the floor pan so your first step is to check that. If it is rusted thru or the paint is bubbling, then you are in for a lot of body work. If the frame is rusted thru or seriously weak, forget it. It is a parts car. Check the floor pans under the front seat mats and under the rear seat. Has the battery rotted thru the floor. Not a tough fix but it gives you an idea about how well the car was maintained Check the front end for evidence of a head-on. Its hard to straighten out a bug.. not impossible but tough. After that its the little stuff. The engine and tranny can always be replaced and the rest is just parts. There is one notable exception. The 73 and 74 bugs had a serious problem with drainage under the rear window on the left and right side because some genius at the factory decided that a little foam was needed inside the car to reduce drafts. The foam would clog up leaving a puddle of water and eventually body rot. It is an expensive repair... if the car has that rust think twice about it.

TWO If it is a 1970's car, 136k sounds low.. That means it only drove 4,000 miles a year. Thats on the low side unless this was someones second car. BUT.. dont worry.. with routine maint. and no disasters you can get 400 to 500k out of them. An engine with 40k is just getting started, if the oil is changed regularly and the valves are spot checked at least twice a year

THREE: Tools: Buy yourself a complete set of metric sockets, and wrenches, a $20 hydr. jack, and a set of car ramps (to help change the oil.).. thats about it for specialized tools. With those you can even change an engine. (have a hammer, screwdrivers, and pliers handy too) BUT.. your tool box should also have a spare spark plug, FAN BELT (really important), and gloves (that engine is HOT), a dozen or so extra fuses (toss those in the glove box) and most important, a HOW TO KEEP YOUR VW ALIVE type book.. (get it at a used bookstore or off eBay.. worth its weight in gold).

FOUR: Skip the honda.. get the bug.. you will not believe the people that smile and wave at you.. ... Think about it for a second.....when is the last time YOU waved or smiled at a honda?

.

ca_surveyor

VW has a "different engine" in that it is in the rear and that you don't have a radiator(or liquid coolant or a waterpump) so it is simpler in that way. Less things to break down.
Most of the tools you require come in the tool kit with the car, a car jack, a hubcap puller a lug nut(they are bolts not nuts) and the same tool can be used to remove spark plugs too as they are the same size, a pair of pliers, a double ended screwdriver and a double ended open end wrench 10-13mm. You are good to go for most of the repairs you will run into on the road. Carburator once set does not need touching. Doesn't get much simpler.
Is it about to break? 40,000 miles That is equivilant to about 4 years of driving(@10,000 a year) I have had them for 15 years. On the highway, byway, backway, ditchway, bushway, goat trails, mudbogging, skiing, swimming, travelling, shopping, towing my motorcycle, going to work, fishing, prospecting, tooling around going nowhere. in particular.
With the price of gas 4 x's what it was, I doubt you will be doing much of that in total.. Once it reaches 99,999 it becomes 0 again so I don't know exactly how many miles Over "2" before I let them go. But then I am bored and what something different. Like a sports car or a truck..
Maintenance is relatively simple. Check the oil level before you start the car to be sure it is at the correct level. It is something you should get into the habit of doing at least once every 2 days if the car is new to you. Adjust the valves once in a while. You do it once and you remember. All solid lift lifters are the same(Chevs, Fords, Dodge, early Toys and others) Plugs once a year. Aircleaner once every 2 years you wash it out and put a 1/2 inch of motor oil in the bottom and you are good for another 2 years. Tire pressures and brake checks. But many of these things you would also do on any car you would get. Get a book out of the public library on VW beetles. There are scads of them in there. Honda too.
I got a Honda now, I have not worked on it( and personally hope I don't for awhile because it does not look easy.
I will need a different set of tools. VW, I got them memorized (ALL 5)
Get metric tools no matter which car you get and a decent set because they are yours and will last your lifetime.. Heck I had non overseas and bought a handful of wrenches in 79(made in Tiawan) Used them many times on many vehicles and still are perfectly good. But you also will want the odd socket just because it is faster. Once you know how to do stuff on your car, you will save majorly.
A 70's Honda...are there any? I thought they all rusted away or died already. Comparing apples to apples.
I would whenever I can avoid auctions, or used car lots. Get it directly from the people. You know right off by looking at the people and the place where they live, what kind of shape your car is going to be in. Well maintained or ran into the ground.
Some speedos had problems in that they measured the speed but did not clock the distance. But I found that to be more in the Rabbits(totally different speedo) and I fixed that myself on the kitchen table with some fine screwdrivers and epoxy glue. I like to know when it is time to change the oil.
Vdubs are even driven differently. They have a long stroke engine so they have more torque at the wheels (like a tractor or diesel semi truck) for pulling the car along at low rpms where a short stroke motor has higher Hp but crappy on the pull when the RPM drop. That long stroke is a reason the engine lasts longer. Getting a owners manual is not as important as a good repair manual . I liked Clymer publications because there is a wiring diagram in there. Chilton does not have one. Easy to understand with plenty of pictures.
Ralph Nader didn't like a lot of cars. Maybe he was a crummy driver. VW uses full welds unlike Toys, Hons, Nissan Air tight and water tight.
Gas tank in the front or in the rear...it has to go someplace. Again full welds. I am not out playing bumper tag on the freeway, neither is anyone else. you either "can drive" or you can't.

Answer w/o sugar coating it IMO

Last night I, very stupidly, drove over a parking lot divider in my 2008 VW Beetle...Any info?

I looked under and saw fluid draining from a pan located near the driver side front tire. Luckily I was only a half-mile from my home and was able to drive home carefully and park it. I placed a pan under the leak and captured at least a quart of reddish fluid. In addition, during the quick trip home, the car did not start rattling or making any catastrophic noises, nor did any warning lights come in so I don't think that I caused any greater damage than the busted drain pan. My questions are:

Is the transmission drain pan located near the front, underneath the engine compartment, and near the driver side front tire?
Or, is this the engine oil drain pan? Which I would think is more toward the center underneath the engine compartment - but I may be wrong.
If there are any VW service shop managers out there - what is a ballpark guess estimation for a repair charge for the problem outlined above?

At any rate I will find out all of these answers on my own by this time tomorrow but I've been sitting around all day worrying about what may lay ahead. It seems that I never have car problems during the days and hours that automotive repair shops are open and ready for business.

Any info would be greatly appreciated...

Asked by: xvrs @ 2009-05-31 19:06:26

Answers ::
based on the color of the fluid, it's transmission fluid. based on the location, it's transmission fluid as in an FWD car the engine and trans are mounted across the car rather than with it and on a VW the engine is to the passenger side while the trans is to the driver side (actually typical of most cars). you need a new transmission drain pan and fluid. you should have the car towed or you'll need a new transmission as well.

hello

Horrors!!! I feel your pain....
By all means, call a towing company ( Flat-bed only!! do not let them tow it with your wheels touching the road!)
Have them transport it to a VW Dealer. May cost a bit more but you get what you pay for. They know your VW the best.
I'm no mechanic but it sounds like you cracked the transmission housing. Don't take a chance on driving it anywhere.
On the positive side of things maybe your car insurance will pay for the damage.
Hope this helps.

fenton

You have punctured a hole in your transmisson oil pan.

Do not drive your car anymore unless you want to buy a 5000 dollar transmission for your car. You will burn it up by drving with low fluid, and god forbid, no fluid.

Tow your car to the shop.

Evil O

DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR AT ALL!!!! It will cost you a much greater amount of money than if you just call a towing company with a flat bed and tow it to your local VW service/dealer. Be more careful driving! It's too expensive nowadays for dumb mistakes!

DK

Lol, omg I did the same thing to my 1999 Beetle... Luckily, it bended my tire rod thingy... and it made my steering wheel crooked. And I needed aligement again... What color is ur New Beetle?

You should join Newbeetle.org
you can post questions, concerns you have and the people there are helpful. Plus other people post pictures of their NB as well..

Impressive_Instant

My alternator on my VW Jetta was replaced twice in 2 weeks!?

A week after I purchased my Jetta w/ 53K miles, I experienced it shutting off on me when I was sitting for like a minute. It turned on again, but the next day I took it back to the dealer and they had to replace the alternator. Just this weekend (week 2) it shut off on me three times. Again, I took it back and initially they told me it might be the harness, but when I picked it up today, they ended up replacing the alternator again. Is this normal?! I'm ready to give the car back and it's unfortunate, because she runs really good and looks practically new, with the exception of this alternator issue. NOTE: in 2003 it was replaced once according to the CAR FAX. So I thought, since it was six yrs. old, it was probably time to replace??

Asked by: melushus @ 2009-06-01 18:06:47

Answers ::
My infiniti has the original alternator at 7 years and 97k miles. These things are supposed to last a while.

My guess would be either you need a new positive battery cable, theres a lose connection, or you might need a new battery. But since your dealer said its an alternator, it probably is. Although its suspicious that one would fail after two weeks.

They should warranty their service and keep replacing the alternator for you free of charge if it keeps failing prematurely. Have the car checked by another dealer or an independent mechanic. Maybe the dealer found something they're not willing to bother with and are inventing some lame alternator excuse.

luvinavril07

Yes get a second opinion and I'd find out if the alternator has a built in voltage regulator or is it external the alternator re-builder shops could tell you the VW parts department.If it's external it could explain why the alternator keeps going or it could be simply that the alternator they installed was faulty.

What makes me wonder is why that mentioned a wiring harness sounds like a mechanic at the dealership suspects the harness is either faulty or damaged.


Hope that helps and best of luck.

helpful bob

NEWS FLASH:

ITS NOT YOUR ALTERNATOR TURNING YOUR CAR OFF........

Evil O

Hello M
It's not a alternator problem and the shop your taking it to does not know the problem either. The problem is in the accelerator switch. Your VW Jetta gas pedal is not a accelerator as most mechanics or people understand. Its an electrical switch. If you don't find a VW mechanic that already knows this you will become frustrated and spend to much $$ on this. Good Luck BS

BS

What is the oil capacity of a 1974 Volkswagen?

Anyone know?

Asked by: jarrettman882002 @ 2009-06-01 05:48:46

Answers ::
4 or 5 quarts easy to add and check til full doesnt hurt to have too many left over can always used it later

kelly_f_1999

Hmm, not enough information. Vw air-cooled , as in bugs, vans, Karmann Ghias, you know, the ones with the engine in the back, they only usually take a couple quarts of oil, but a water-cooled Rabbit, Fox or Jetta , with the engine in the front, will take 4-5 quarts
Just add a bit a a time until full, but don't overfill

Bob S

The air cooled models only take between 3 and 4 quarts unless you have an exteral oil filter added. Then figure 4 plus a bit. But the safest way is to drain the oil, change the filter, add 3 and then run in for a minute or so.

THEN check the oil and add what you need to reach the fill line. Then remember that amount for next time.

Overfilling is not a good thing for air cooled bugs since it makes the oil foam and foam does not dissipate heat as well.

/

.

ca_surveyor

I know my 73 standard has a 3qt capacity.

Prime

Where can I find a replacement windshield frame for a type 181 VW thing?

Mail order or local in San Diego, CA.
Thanks
I am also looking for a useable soft top frame.

Asked by: Rod Knocker @ 2009-06-01 14:47:58

Answers ::
The Samba.com

Craigslist.com

Look in an Air Cooled magazines for part sources.

Evil O

Yea, look on The Samba, you can get anything there.

Prime

http://www.thethingshop.com/

there you go, never dealt with them though. Good luck

vwbuggin64

where can i get parts for my 1974 vw beetle in ireland?

i am looking for parts for my vw beetle there is a shop in tipperary but i dont know the name or the phone number can any one help me out?
all answers are welcome and thank you

Asked by: Jamie @ 2009-06-01 07:32:39

Answers ::
america kicks irish ass bastard

Soccer King

Well, being here in the USA I can not tell you any specific shops, but there are quite a few locations that will ship parts to you .

I would suggest that you first google it and see if there are local parts houses that carry them in Ireleand or GB. There are a lot of VW's over there so I would suspect that the parts exist somewhere.

You might check Craigslist in the Ireland section.. althought I suspect it will be a bit skimpy you might get lucky there.

Lastly try thesamba.com in the forums.. You are not the only person with a VW in europe so someone else may have the answer for you.

good luck...

ca_surveyor

Click on the link below, it is the nearest to Tipperary that I know of. There are bound to be others which you can probably find out about from the Volkswagen owners club (Ireland).

One thing you can be sure of is that there is no shortage of spare parts were 74 Beetle. Good luck, Gizz -- County Armagh

Gizzard Puke