how much can i sell my 1997 jetta for?

how much can i sell my 1997 jetta for?

im going to try and sell my jetta but dont really know how much to list it for?
it is a 1997 Jetta GLS. black exterior with cloth grey interior. 2.0 engine with 4cyl. the tires are a week old. there are no mechanical problems. car has 187,000 miles with the transmission replaced at 100,000 miles. it has new tires, bearings, rotors, shoes, and brake pads. it has a brand new flowmaster cat exhaust system and a magnaflow high flow catalytic converter. it has a cd player and sun/ moon roof, whatever one opens all the way. has very little rust, only on underside. overall good condition. how much should i try to sell it for?

Asked by: mzuvie1608 @ 2009-04-15 12:15:08

Answers ::
try using kbb.com or edmunds.com to value the vehicle.

AskAStupidQuestion...

Look at the Kelly Blue Book. It will tell you about how much your car is worth.

Blondie8

kellybluebook.com just plug all you info in and BAM! you get a quote lol

mizzmarcy06

12000

dvdclarke

you should get between 2000 and 2800

Robert n

Agreed ^ Between 1500-3000 would be what you could get. List it on vwvortex.com. Seriously, check out the site. you will get quite a few hits.

paintballpro111

72 VW w/ approx 2160 cc engine running hot?

2110cc with dual 44 webers, SLR cam, straight cut gears, 44x37 comp eliminator heads, ceramic coated exhaust w/ fatboy muffler, remote oil filter, remote oil cooler w/fan, electric fuel pump, runs hot after "long" drives. What do you think? Rings bad? timing? something else? appreciate the help here!
Thank you for all the possibilities. This is a bug for sale. I havnt looked at it yet, the above are things he said in the ad, I will get more info! Yeah I heard a big kit in a a600 block can be a recipe for problems.
Thank you for all the possibilities. This is a bug for sale. I havnt looked at it yet, the above are things he said in the ad, I will get more info! Yeah I heard a big kit in a 1600 block can be a recipe for problems.

Asked by: MrNeutral @ 2009-04-15 08:06:05

Answers ::
Has it all ways run hot?(chronic) or is this something that just showed up?

Those major modifications usually shorten up the life expectancy of an engine by bunches..

Sometimes the gas station will change the fuel mix it has been selling and not tell anybody. The high compression extreme modified engines are the ones to show the soonest.

Low octane in an inherently noisy engine is a death wish for detonation. Try backing down the timing in 3 degree steps and see if it makes a difference.

Check your fan to see if it has eaten any newspaper lately.

Do a compression test and listen for leaking heads and burned valves.

The vacuum leak just loves long rides. You may have under jeted the carbs or have a leak which is allowing the head temps to climb. Pull a spark plug after a "hot' run and check to see how white or completely clean it might be.

Hope you can find a solution while the engine is still sound!!

Edit: Pass!! This engine has been diagnosed to death by it's builder and they couldn't fix it. So the easy stuff has been tried.

gaston

Well, first of all, that sized engine on a VW block IS going to run hotter. So how you define 'hot' is really a subjective thing.

Lets assume that you have checked the hoses, carbs, etc.. and everyting is functioning well...

First: Check your cooling.. Make sure you havent sucked up a dead chicken into the intake (or the insulation from the engine compartment.. that fried my engine once.. an expensive lesson). If your engine compartment is hotter then a normal one you may have disintegrated the figerglass batting back there and poof.. one clogged filter. You may want to pull the shroud over the fan to check the oil cooler.

Second: Check the undercarriage. Same goal.. is there a reason that the ambient air is not blowing over the pushrod tubes and the cooling fins of the engine.

Third: What IS the temp? If you are really concerned, put in an electronic oil temp gauge and monitor it. This becomes important when you break the 1900 barrier on these aluminum engines sicne higher temps break down the oil which, in turn, accelrates the wear and tear on the internal parts of the engine (i.e. shorter engine life).

Fourth: Engine oil changes.. ONCE A MONTH FOR BIG ENGINES.. Dirty engines cool slower and, as I mentioned, the oil breaks down faster and so it needs to be changed more frequently.

SO if the engine is running right, what can you do?

First you can upsize the external oil cooler. Thats easy to do but an ugly attachment to the outside of the car. It may require that you upsize the pump which is easy to do once you pull the main pulley.

After that, basically, besides forcing more air over the cooling fins, not much. 'Back in the Day' we used to use scoops to catch and force more air into the grill work at higher speeds.. that may be a solution for you now.

good luck...

.

ca_surveyor

As owner of more VWs then .. .well anyway, did you build this on a small block ? this kind of over heating sounds like there's not enough engine for the amount of heat that this size will produce. I say this do to the amount of engine extras, oil cooler etc.
How about the time it takes to get to these temps ? how long are you saying ? Also is this a bus or type 2-3 engine or an up right, like a standard bug. You never gave us the type of VW this is on, Bus, car, what are you running ?
What ever hopefully you'll add the information to your trouble.

DR DEAL

2110 is quite a bit bigger than the stock 1600. Did you upgrade the size of the oil cooler to accommodate for the larger displacement? If not, try that.

Are you trying to save gas by driving with low RPMs? If so, stop it. It is an air cooled engine, so of course driving with your RPMs low is going to cause less air movement, and therefore more heating issues.

Do you have all the cooling tin? If not, get some. Should cost very little at a local show, or ACVW shop.

Unfortunately, that's all the help I can offer without looking at the engine myself. All I can advise if none of the above are the problem is taking off your decklid so it can get maximum airflow until you can find a local vw guy to help you out.

skeet monroe

hot rod VWs run hot due to the extra power out put but if it runs way hot maybe some of the engine tin is missing or maby it needs a new oil cooler . its an air cooled engine and any mods can cause over heating this beetle seem to be a race ready car and they run hotter than stock. also that motor built like it is, is not for the long haul. email me for specific answers.

Jarod C

I run a 2275cc type 1 it runs the same head temps as stock. Oil runs hotter, I run an, extra, external oil cooler. Define hot. What is hot, oil temps, cylinder head temps? Lots of good advice so far, check the tarboard insulation on the firewall for any movement. The cooling fan has incredible suction. Check for vacuum leaks and jetting. Who built the engine, It may be a bad combo of parts. There are certain "recipe" rules that work, step outside the rules and you either have a pig that is impossible to tune or you have a thermal meltdown waiting to happen.

Go here and search for a while. then post a somewhat informed question.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/

Probably best to walk away from an advertised hot running engine and educate yourself some more before diving in. Could be an expensive lesson.

bill f

What kind overall dependability did the old, 1960s to late 1970s VW bugs have?

Asked by: jayhawk @ 2009-04-14 22:34:30

[Best Answer]If in good health and properly maintained they are as reliable as modern cars. That's the trick though, properly maintained, for some people, means always in the shop. If you teach yourself how to do a tune up, points, plugs, cap and rotor, once a year. Adjust brakes and valves every other oil change. If you haven't a clue what that means they are probably not for you. If it piques your interest, you can ultimately end up with a car that you very rarely have to pay a mechanic for anything.

By : bill f @ 1239795337

Answers ::
The old adage is...
Take a classic Beetle park it next to the top three modern cars of your choice, cover all of them in snow for a week. Dig them out and there is a 99 % chance, the Beetle is the only one that will crank.

Those cars were nearly indestructible, until you ran into them with a larger American made three ton car.

Alex E

If in good health and properly maintained they are as reliable as modern cars. That's the trick though, properly maintained, for some people, means always in the shop. If you teach yourself how to do a tune up, points, plugs, cap and rotor, once a year. Adjust brakes and valves every other oil change. If you haven't a clue what that means they are probably not for you. If it piques your interest, you can ultimately end up with a car that you very rarely have to pay a mechanic for anything.

bill f

They were great little cars. I owned several of them.Very dependable.Easy to repair. Great traction in snow.My only real complaint was that the heaters seldom ever worked well.They relied on heat from the engine being blown through ducts in the floorboards which rusted out and left you with little heat if any.Check out what they're selling for on Autotrader.com. You might be shocked.I'd love to have another one.Repair panels are available to replace the heater ducts.

Willie

Actually I think your question has its own answer. How many 60's and 70's beetles do you see on the road? Prob., a lot compared to the 60's and 70's detroit iron.

THe old bugs just keep running and running.. they are easy to maintain, and a nice classic car that has a rising value. Parts are readily available if you need them and if you keep the oil changed on a regular basis and give it basic maint. it should be very reliable (not to mention it gets into a lot of TINY parking places!)

On the down side, they will NEVER get you somewhere quickly - top speed for the 70's bugs IS the 70's. Safety is not a top line feature. That gasoline tank in the front was a downer, but the tank WAS improved in the later years.

hope that helped...

.

ca_surveyor

You bet you bippy, these are still in great running shape.

DR DEAL

How to copy a 1997 Jetta Key?

I just bought a 1997 Jetta GLS. The owner only had one key for it. He cannot find the valet key. Can I have the ignition key copied or do I need to go to a VW Dealer and have them order a me a key? I hate to only have one key for the car as I tend to lose things, get locked out, etc. The car has the factory alarm system...
Thanks!

Asked by: J H @ 2009-04-14 22:38:33

Answers ::
Go to an automotive locksmith. Usually cheaper than the dealer.

Hillbilly Locksmith

First see if you can copy this away from the dealer, IE it's not a manufature only item.
After all that check out a used car lot, junk yard for the parts.

DR DEAL

Keep in mind that the valet key is different from the other key... The valet key will not open the trunk or the center console.

I bought a new uncut key from the dealer and it was $30 only ( Jetta GT 1997)

Luis A.

The key has an immobolizer in it, hence the fat black head. You need to get it done at a dealer unless a locksmith is able to do these plates. It takes 5 minutes to do, but those with immbolizers tend to be more expensive than standard keys.

The above guy is right. Im not sure if your key will open the truck, glove box, or center compartment. You should ask for one of these ones too

I got my keys copied, and i just went to walmart. They were able to do mine, but i had swapped out my ignition system, so no immobolizer. Check off dealer first, then go have em made where you can

paintballpro111

which jetta is better? vr6 or 1.8 turbo?

i am trying to decide what to purchase for my next car. my buddy has a 200 vr6 manual but im not all that impressed with the speed. overall what is a better buy a 2000 vr6 or like a 2001 1.8T in terms of speed, reliability, gas mileage. etc. im also debating whether to get a 2000 audi a6 2.7T if you have any say on the quality of that car. please let me know what you think. also what do you think would be the cheapest insurance
what is the best jetta there is (fastest) in 2000?

Asked by: mzuvie1608 @ 2009-04-15 11:59:55

Answers ::
audi offcourse, forget about the jetta. the 2.7T will smoke both jettas lol

abbscarface

Well with the 2.7t you can get a chip by apr that gives you 318hp/382lb-ft with 93 octane. Btw the manual is the only real 2.7t.

smithersprime

1.8t is what i have and i freaking love it! the turbo kicks in at 3k rpm's and it's very nice! i wouldn't trade my car for the world. and mine has well over 100k miles on it and it still runs great. it has made close to 10 trips back and forth from wyoming to northern california and i didn't have a single problem with it!

Jessica

2000 vr6 should be a bit faster then a 2000 1.8t. the 2000 1.8t is only 150hp. vr6 also in my opinion sounds better and should get similar mileage

Robert n

how do i check vw fox tyre pressure?

this sounds like such a girlie question! but i have a bog-standard air pump thingy, and it won't attach to the VW Fox valves. i tried to do the tyre pressures the other day and thought i'd succeeded - but my dad has just used his gauge and they're all 0.3 bar below what they should be. does anyone know if you need a different attachment for the pump? can't seem to get the valve caps off. assume they ARE normal underneath.

Asked by: merrylegs27 @ 2009-04-15 13:26:42

Answers ::
Go and make the dinner or do some cleaning or something and let your dad do it

Cannonbolt

if you don't know you shouldn't be driving, can you check the oil, water-washers-radiator, brake fluid

717

Pop in and see your VW Dealer, they will help you. Dave

DEMII K

You should really be able to do this: The tyre valves have plastic dust caps that unscrew;
http://www.kwik-fit.com/assets/jpg/graphics/valve_large.jpg
to leave a brass threaded valve.
Your tyre pump should have a lever on it at the end fitting that goes on the valve. This needs to be pointing away from the valve before pushing the fitting firmly onto the valve & locking it by pushing the lever down & in line with the pipe from the pump;
http://www.solware.co.uk/2005-images/compressor.jpg
The lever is the black plastic bit attached to the chrome fitting at the end of the hose.

You should always check tyre pressures when the car has been parked for at least an hour (tyres will be cold) & I'd advise buying a separate pressure gauge - they tend to be more accurate than those on pumps. They generally operate by just being pushed firmly onto the valve for a second or so once the dust cap's off.

If you've over inflated your tyres, you can release air by pressing down on the brass pin in the centre of the valve with a pen or similar.

J G

Why will my VW camper van not idle?

I have a 1979 bay window 1.6 camper van. My camper had an engine tune recently which consisted of carb clean, new points and condenser, carb emissions setting, new plugs, new leads and distributor. I took it on a successful 300mile journey without any problems. On the way back the van started cutting out every time it came to a stop (at lights or a roundabout) indicating a problem at idle. Now when I start it the engine idles for about 10 secs then cuts out. The carb jets are clean. I adjusted the mixture screw, volume screw and idle arm screw with no luck (I have since put them back to base settings). Fuel is pumping thru ok and is nice and clean so no problem with the fuel filter. The Electromagnetic cut off valve is working fine. I can start the van and it runs for about 10 seconds and splutters to a stall. I can however keep it running when I depress the accelerator pedal so I am assuming there is no issue with the fuel pump. Any ideas what could be the issue? is there anything I should look out for during the carb rebuild? I thought it was just the volume/idle screw settings but I cant even get it to run BADLY to even start to tune it. How do the vacuum hoses fit on? What about hoses to and from the air box?

Asked by: tommy_2081 @ 2009-04-16 04:50:40

Answers ::
I know it seems like a fuel problem but check your points--the gap and the colour of the contacts.If they are blue or burnt then check the earth to the points from the distributor and replace the condenser and points again.There is also an in line fuel filter on the VW LT That gave a lot of problems.Finally, when it cuts out remove the top of the carburetor and see if the float chamber is full of fuel.If not check that the float isn't punctured or the needle valve behind it isn't blocked with dirt or come loose

arlanymor

This could be a problem with your ignition coil or ht leads. Have you checked the condition of the spark plugs? This will give you some idea what cylinders are not working properly.
also I have come across this problem before on a 1973 VW 1.6 camper van.
It turned out to be a charging problem. The symptom's were exactly as you have described them.

mick49a

Lets try the basics since you seem to have covered the other stuff:

1) Vacume leak: Check for a loose or broken hose. Then get some carb cleaner and, with the engine running, spray it on the carb at the base and on the hose ends and fittings. If the car suddenly runs better you found your problem.

2) Fuel Filter: easy to overlook and cheap to swap out if you are not sure. Sometimes even if the fuel gets thru at low speed it will choke at any load.

3) Crud in the tank line. Used compressed air to blow the line back out to the tank. If it works, then you need to drain the tank and flush it out because the air just pushes the crud away.. like bad news it WILL return. Likewise you could have a load of bad gas. Get some and run it from a small gas can with a temporary hose and see if the problem vanises

Moving up in complexity:

The Carb.. they DO go bad and yours appears to be 30 years old (?). Check that your choke is fully off once the car has started and warmed since if it is sticking it will do what you described

The engine.. check your compression.. make sure you dont have a larger problem and the fuel is just a symptom.

THe hoses from the air cleaner can be plugged temprorarily at the carb just to eliminate that problem. Then remove the air clearner to check the choke and test the engine.

.

ca_surveyor

I was going to say check the vacuum lines to be sure they fit on "tight". The vacuum on the end is twice the strength of the average household vacuum cleaner. It should not be hard(in that you cannot squeeze the ends closed together with your finger tips. It is a rubber hose. If you can't squeeze the hose together it has hardened and does not fit on tight.(like too much starch in the socks) so nip off a half inch and see that it is squeezable and then fit it back on to the intake manifold and to the distributor advance.

Okay, now that it is not sucking air from other places(other than down the carb where it is suppose to go)
Because you did 300 miles and there was no problem up to that point, one would think you had bad fuel. Or that the needle/float is sticking closed and not allowing fuel to come in to the float bowl. (Because you run out of fuel)
A carb clean is not necessarily a carb rebuild. It is a thought. The fact the car runs for 10 sec. has nothing to do with the mixture or volume screw so don't F with them.

I have had the case where I could drive 30 miles in one direction no problem. Turn around and come back no problem.
But if I took another road in the opposite direction and tried to go 40 miles; the car would die. And stay dead for 20 minutes. Before it cooled off enough? so that I could restart it and continue the last 10 miles into the next town(during that time I would pull off the hose from the fuel tank to the pump to see if I was getting fuel and I was). Going back the 40, no problem. Did this twice before I figured out it was the mechanical fuel pump (on the third go) "check ball" was getting stuck inside the pump. - there was no fuel coming out of the hot pump(no hotter than normal). I could go any other direction more than 40 miles and this would not happen.(mind you I was climbing mountain highways) instead of driving on the valley bottom as in this case. Definitely weird. But the 3rd time I took off the output hose from the fuel pump when it stalled out and saw nothing was coming out when I cranked it.
Changed the pump - not a problem afterwards.
I never worried about it as I hardly ever visited that town. "Evil-ville"
But that was just weird.

Anyways, with any vacuum hoses that you cannot connect. shove a golf Tee into them so they are blocked. The vacuum hose under the carburator goes to the distributor advance. diaphram. The car was tuned so all that should have been okay.
You have a fuel problem of some sort.

Best answer usually the simplest