what is the average miles per gallon a green volkswagen gets?

Question 1
what is the average miles per gallon a green volkswagen gets?...  

Answers
1)   not nearly enough. - Lonnie Fitzpatrick

2)   They get slightly higher than orange and yellow ones but not as good as blue or red. - mscherpenberg

3)   Repaint it. Red ones get much better mileage. - mustanger

4)   12/same as a blue/not as much as a white - ken k

5)   the make determines the mileage not the color?! So the SUV gets less than say the rabbit. I have a jetta it get about 35 miles/gallon highway which is great! - instantkarmah

6)   You got to paint it "fast black". - Do the Math

7)   It take it you mean green as in allegedly friendly towards the environment. The VW cars are all called "Blue Motion" in Europe and the Blue motion Passat (diesel) did something like 1400 miles on one tank of fuel in a recent test making it the most economic car of its type. - L G


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Question 2
How much would it cost to switch from a manual transmission to an automatic transmission?...  I have a 2.8L 2000 Jetta VR6 and was wondering what it would cost to get it switched from a manual transmission to an automatic transmission? Appriciate the help.

Answers
1)   too much, manual is good (you have more control and better economy) or just sell a car and buy auto - Nancy

2)   It would be thousands, at least, even if it could be done in any practical way. Much cheaper to just trade it in and get an automatic version. - capitalgentleman

3)   well...
you need a fly wheel, torque converter, transmission, you may need a different drive shaft, cooling lines for your radiator, and maybe even a radiator. depending on what year vehicle it is you may need to change the computer on your car and add wiring. thennn, if you dont know how to switch it out yourself youre gonna have to pay to get it done.

..so, in the end you'd come out cheaper just buying or trading for an automatic. - ♫emjay

4)   WHAT??

There's more to it than just switching transmissions! You'll introduce more problems!

Forget it! Probably more than the vehicle is worth! If you want an automatic transmission then shop for a vehicle that already has one. - CommonSense

5)   The best way is to get a wrecked car exactly like yours & swap over all the parts need then try to resale the car to somebody else for the same money thereby costing you nothing.
Check the papers or a wrecking yard for the prices. - clncarplz

6)   Get on vwvortex.com.
Go the the Golf IV & Jetta IV parts forum
Find someone parting out a Jetta or Golf, doesn't matter.
Make an offer on the parts you need.

Remember you will need a few interior pieces as well and the seller should have a price listed but you can haggle a bit. It won't be cheap but it won't be expensive if you do the work yourself. - Nick


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Question 3
How to time a 1600 VW motor?...  i have a 1600 vw sandrail and i need to know how to time the motor without a mark, because the motor has an aftermarket pulley with no timing marks.

Answers
1)   well if you can spin off the pulley bolt you can see the woodruff key that should be strait up and there might be a mark on the inside of the 009 distributor showing #1 to help
you probably have the power pulley and the painted marks wore off - mykwilwin

2)   If you are starting from a rebuild then turn the engine until the #1 piston is at the top with both valves closed, Mark the pully where the crank cases meet, turn the distributor at the #1 wire. If everything else is OK it will start. Hold the rpms at about half throttle & advance the distributor until the motor runs the fastest. - clncarplz

3)   hahaha believe it or not, alot of bug engines used an offset slot for distributor drive.it was impossible to get em out of time.not sure if you havethis style distributor drive or not though,sorry. - idontgivafork

4)   The bug is static timed, if it is stock.
Try this link it seems to be the best I can find fast-
http://www.aircooledtech.com/timing/ - Old Man Dirt

5)   Hi, Here goes:
1) Get that pulley off & put on one w/a mark. Or a few marks. Or a lot of marks & degrees. But the most important thing to do is to get a GOOD pulley-the marks come second. But you need a pulley w/a mark on it-and the CORRECT pulley. Make sure you find out if that motors got a cam in it or not.
2) You're going to have to find out if the motors IS to be timed at exactly top dead center. It COULD be timed 4 degrees before top dead center! Or even two degrees!
3) You're also going to have to clarify what TYPE of distributor you've got. Not just the kind (mechanical advance, vacuum advance, etc.), but if it's a .009. Try to get a .009 distributor if you can. It will have ".009" on the outside of it if so.
4) One must make sure that the advance is working on the distributor. I'm gonna assume it IS, & I'm also going to assume it's a mechanical advance distributor & not a vaccuum advanced one (the vaccuumed advanced distributors have one or two little tubes sticking out of 'em on the side somewhere (which you can suck on really really hard & suck the points around).
5) Okay, set the points first okay? THEN do the timing. THE POINTS MUST BE SET.
6) Try to get the motor in top dead center. Find the #1 cylinder, remove the spark plug, and put a long screwdriver down in the hole. W/a crescent wrench on the alternator pulley, turn the alternator pulley so that the engine is turning (you'll see the fan belt turn & the crankshaft pulley turn). If they don't turn AND the nut comes off of the alternator pulley then ya' gotta take ooooffff the alt. pulley, remove a shim (or 2, or 3, or...), put the pulley half back on (w/the belt), & tighten down the nut. Make SURE that there's a half an inch of play in the fan belt k?
7) So you're turning the engine over & over right? (you may just want to make it easy & pull out ALL the spark plugs-just don't mix up the wires. Use tape & a pen to mark 'em where they go). The screwdriver will go up & down. One time when it's up it will be at top dead center during the compression stroke, one time it will be at top dead center during the exhaust stroke. Okay?
8) Remove the cap to the distributor. The engine is at the top dead center during the correct stroke when the rotor is pointing to oh....say....5 o'clock or so. Got it? The screwdriver will be up as high as it can go (the piston will be up as high as it can go) & the rotor will be pointed at approx 5 oclock or so.
9) Remove the screwdriver & put the sparkplugs back in. Put the spark plug wires back on.
10) Loosen up the distributor. Rotate the distributor so the liiiiitle line on the rim is getting pointed at by the rotor. You can spin the distributor from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock & back again for fun, just make sure that you take the little line & line it up w/that rotor pointing at it.
11) Turn the key to "on" but do NOT crank over the motor.
12) W/the cap off of the distributor, & w/you looking straight down at the distributor, your nose 12 inches from it, sloooly rotate the cap one direction & then the other to see a spark between the points. At that moment the motor is in TDC. Tighten down the distributor.
13) IS the motor SUPPOSED to be at TDC or 2' or 4' BTDC?
14) Buy "The Idiots Guide to Fixing your VW".

All this will get you in the ballpark & make the thing driveable, but you're really going to have to get a pulley that's a GOOD pulley. Watch out, bad pulleys can wear down & then you are in trouuuuble! - Madam, I'm...

6)   That's inconvenient. one answerer is right about establishing Top Dead Center and that has to be ACCURATE. You should use a dial indicator rigged down into the No 1 cyl - and yes both valves should be closed on power stroke - or your mark will be 180 off. I had a bug and i recall the timing setting at idle was to be about 6-8 deg BTDC (with vacuum hose disconnected. That was about 1/2 inch on the pulley rim. The distributor should have 30-35 degrees of centrifugal advance that will top out at 3000 rpm or so. You might have a vacuum "advance" if if there is a can on the distributor and a hose is hooked up. - Thomas E


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Question 4
Jetta or Passat??????...  Im looking to buy either... which is faster? more powerful? gas milage? more comfortable? WHICH IS BETTER AND WHY! THANKS im looking for a 2000-2001.. thanks please include mpg city and hwy

Answers
1)   Jetta= Cheaper faster and better mpg about 25mpg cheaper made car
Passat= Heavy durable less mpg about 20mpg more comfortable - Mike

2)   jetta ftw! they are super cool. I used to own one and it never quit on me. - max

3)   passat has 22 mpg around town and 27 on the highway.
plus the passat looks better. - Yuli988

4)   B5 Passats and mk4 Jettas are probably the worst generations. I'm pretty sure they are both limited to the same top speed, most likely 127mph. The Jetta will have a better 0-60 time because it's lighter, but neither can be considered fast.

Get a mk5 Jetta. - Nick

5)   They are both "old hat" now on that year and the newer cars are much improved both in appearance and mechanically. I would opt for the Jetta which is essentially the Golf we have in Europe. US buyer's have a problem with VW cars as some are built "across the Atlantic" and are nothing like as good as the German built cars. If you can get either car that has been built in Europe you will be fine. They pretty much share the same engine and gearbox. The suspension differs as the Passat has a more complicated set up derived from and Audi A 4. They are prone to wanting an overhaul as the mileage gets towards 100k. I find the consumption figures baffling as I used to get 33 mpg from my 2.0 litre Golf and I would expect the Jetta to do likewise, perhaps your US gallon is smaller than the UK Imperial gallon ? - L G


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Question 5
i have a 2003 VW Beetle turbo S and the check engine light came on with a p2181 code. how do i Fix?...  i had the car scanned and code # P2181 came up said something to do with the coolant system but i don't know where to start looking to fix it? is it the Coolant Temperature Sensor?

Answers
1)   Take it to the dealer....they will know best. Sorry if this seems like an obvious answer. Or you can get a haynes or chilton manual and they outline the code errors and many times how to fix. Good luck. - Jonathan D

2)   could be the coolant temp sensor among other things cooling related. The Coolant Temp Sensor does have a history of failing on the MK4 engines.

It's easy to do, but have extra 50:50 mix of G12 coolant & distilled water handy, because coolant will spill out when you replace the sensor - cant_think_of_1

3)   Your coolant temperature sensor is bad. There was a recall on these back in 2003, but even the "green top" ones that replaced the old black housing sensors are still prone to failure. You'll want to purchase all three of the parts on this page: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/New%20Beetle/Cooling/181/3

Unfortunately the price has crept up on these parts since the time of the initial recall, you used to be able to get the 3 parts for under 5 bucks at the dealership!

The sensor is located in the front right area of the engine bay, between the engine and the airbox. You'll need to remove the decorative engine plastics to get at the sensor, but it is a very easy job. Make sure to purge pressure in the cooling system by opening and re-capping the coolant overflow reservoir, and only work when the motor is cold. You should lose very little coolant doing it this way, maybe an ounce or two max. - gti_4cefed4

4)   That can be a tricky code.

A mechanic @ the Source posts he replaces the water/coolant pump to fix it. - Squeaky Wheeler


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