Which VW Golf should I buy as an everyday car?

[Subject]
Which VW Golf should I buy as an everyday car?
[Question]
I'm looking to buy a golf because I like them but I don't know whether to buy a.. GTI, V6 4Motion, R32. I have cash to buy any, as long as it's a few years old but I don't particularly want extortionate running costs and neither do I want a boring, slow car so what should I do?

Mat @ 2009-08-26 13:04:48

[All Answers]
It's a V'R'6, not just v6;). But what you mentioned is all the same car, haha. I would go with the 1.8T GTI or the R32. Considering that you said everyday driving. Go with the 1.8T. cheaper parts, better gas mileage. Or you could go old school and get a mk2 GTI.

Calvin W @ 2009-08-26 13:09:10

The new GTI 2.0T get nice gas mileage (around 32 on the highway) and have awesome torque. Look at the specs and decide.

alex_713 @ 2009-08-26 13:13:29

the 2.0 litre TDI 140 GT 3dr is the best if u don't want a sporty Gti, it is also available as a 5door as well if that's wat ur looking 4.

And it does 57.6 miles per gallon on petrol as well so its good on fuel 2

If ur looking 4 a Diesel 4 cheaper running costs, get the TDI SE which is also both 3 and 5 door. This has an astonishing 61.2mpg.

Note:they don't currently sell the R32 vesion in the UK
Hope this helped

Aust @ 2009-08-26 13:20:12

well im getting a v6 4motion next month, so id say that, but running costs will be high for both the v6 and the r32. they are the fastest and the most kitted out inside(leather, wood, electrics etc), but are 2.8l and 3.2 l. the r32 is barely faster than the 4motion and not worth the extra £3000 an r32 demands. the gti's are more practical. the 2.0 is the worst, the 1.8gti turbo is fun but still FWD whereas the 4motion and r32 are AWD, and only produces 150bhp, which for a 1.8 turbo isn't that great, it wont be slow but wont be majorly fast as its a low pressure turbocharger.

so as an everyday car, the 1.8 turbo (4motion returns 25-30mpg) although the r32 and 4motion are top of the range. just dont get the 1.6 or 1.4!! there SLOW! the 1.4 has 75bhp to a 1.5 ton car!

r32, 246bhp

4motion, 204 bhp

1.8T gti, 150 bhp

2.0l gti, 115bhp

Chris @ 2009-08-26 13:42:11

None of them, they're over-priced, over-rated expensive to maintain and dull as dishwater.
Get a Focus ST or Astra VXR instead.

Bill W @ 2009-08-26 14:33:44

Any of the golfs are good. I have a 1987 Golf GL with 250000 miles so any should last you for quite a while.

Sarah @ 2009-08-26 19:29:00

Golf GT Diesel.

roger.williams20@btinternet.com @ 2009-08-27 02:34:04

[Subject]
What is the gap supposed to be on the points of an 1835 volkswagen motor?
[Question]

FYI 1835 refers to the size of the motor, not the year *facepalms*

vampyrtrivial @ 2009-08-26 16:54:13

[All Answers]
15 to 18 thousands of an inch

davidlill @ 2009-08-26 17:15:52

You may have typed that that incorrectly, I believe in 1835 that would have been between the horses.
Edit: 0.028.

Mark @ 2009-08-26 17:29:42

i dont really know but i have a friend that owns a vw shop that specializes in older vw's and i bet he knows. i will e-mail you once i've contacted him. cool?

ok, i called him. the gap is 16 thousandths. His business is in Longview, Texas. Oak Hill Automotive. 903-297-3496. the old guys name is Clark.

i see that someone is marking me a thumbs down and that's alright. even as my answer is correct. as a consultant it is not my job to know everything but to be able to find the answer to a question in order to make good decisions. i find out and try not to make 'educated guesses'

IKE @ 2009-08-27 05:36:38

.016in.

Tomato @ 2009-08-27 08:24:44

Straight from the manual

Contact breaker gap = 0.4mm (0.016 in)
Dwell angle = 47° ± 3°

Replica @ 2009-08-27 12:56:02

[Subject]
air conditioner on vw beetle?
[Question]
i have a 98 vw new beetle and my air conditioner has broken a few times.
first all start by saying how it was broken, my bf's father but free-on in the tube or whatever to make the air colder because it wasnt cold enough.. well he didnt check the levels before doing so.
well, a week later it started making extremely LOUD noises and stopped working.
well we changed the fuse.. that didn't work.
i took it to a shop and they played around with the wires right behind my radio and it worked for about 3 days but they told me to be very gentle with it or it would come loose and not work anymore. i was plenty gentle with it and it stopped working anyways.
well, now you can feel the air.. it will heat up and cool down but it will not blow the air out.
can anyone tell me what it is?
is it the blower motor?
OH and the first time i had taken it to a shop and they replaced a "chip" or something it was located underneath my glove box.. that didn't fix it either.
here is a little more info im a 20 year old girl so forgive me, lol.
nothing was even touched under the hood. they only thing that was touched was the "chip" that is located underneath my glove box. and that didn't fix it. they have messed with the wires right behind my radio and it fixed it for a about 3 days but then it stopped and i will give you more info on that.. i took it to "the garage" the day before i was about to leave on a 14 hour drive from Tennessee to Missouri and they knew about this road trip a week in advance but suggested that i come in that day and when i got it there they replaced the chip with a brand new one directly under the glove box because they were certain that that was going to fix the problem! well, it didn't and they had no time left before i had to leave so the "mechanic" said well i will "rig" it for you.. and he started messing with those wires behind my radio and it worked for 3 days before coming loose.. this wasn't a permanent fix....
Lam Sanders: they were professional mechanics [or so they said] but you are right that is basically what they did.. was "rigged" my car and broke it more because now my dash everything above and below my radio falls apart.. when i am driving it falls down at any given moment because they never fixed it

☆ripcitychick☆ @ 2009-08-26 23:30:17

[All Answers]
blow it up!!!!!!!

dakgraha @ 2009-08-26 23:33:40

Talk about a rip off. Here's a simple but common fix. Try unclogging the air wave and check if everything is connected fully without any small rips. They probably thought something overheated and the chip got damaged but it's more like something is clogging the airwave.

MyntzSmg @ 2009-08-26 23:34:55

it is hard to follow the problem you are trying to describe. but i will stab at it. it is a known failure that the heater door inside the air distrubition housing will break from its pivots where it swings open or shut to direct hot/cold air. it is inside the big black plastic housing behind the radio/a/c controls. are you sure the other shop replaced a 'chip' or a 'clip'? could be that the door is free moving and letting the cold air mix with the heater air and the air flow gets misdirected from top vents to floor. crazy. your request is hard to understand but unless more and better imfo is given this is all i can "guess" at.

IKE @ 2009-08-27 05:59:01

"a shop" does not sound like a mechanical repair shop. So that is one of your problems. They just broke it more. No shop(a proper repair faucility would have to tell you "be gentle with it". These guys sounds like ones who use duct-tape and tie-wire to repair things.
Take it to VW dealership and be prepared to buy the whole darn unit. Freon not only keeps you cool, it is the lubricant for the air conditioning pump. If the level gets too low the pump runs dry and it seizes. No different than running the car engine with too little motor oil - it too will seize up...and you will have a solid block of metal(instead of a block with moving parts).
So, I am guessing from your story, you were in need of a freon recharge because there is a leak someplace.....that was not addressed...the fan motor power was bypassed so it ran regardless of whether the air-conditioner unit was cold or not and now it sounds like it is fried too.
You will have to resort to the older time tested and proven method of VW air-conditioning--opening a window.
This not going to be cheap to fix(which a freon fill was all it really needed most likely) But that "was" in the beginning....

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-27 08:23:19

[Subject]
2001 volkswagan jetta making loud clicking sound when get up to 60mph?
[Question]
I have a 2001 Volkswagan jetta and when i get up to 60 mph or pull out on the interstate it starts making a loud clicking sound What could this be?

Pam @ 2009-08-26 16:59:21

[All Answers]
My friend had a similar problem. It was the evap service port line on the left side of the engine compartment vibrating against the inside of the fender. I just bent it in and no problem.

vampyrtrivial @ 2009-08-26 17:07:32

The hamster cage belt needs tightening.

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-26 17:09:36

Vampyrtrivial may be right, but if the clicking increases in frequency with an increase in speed above 60 you might suspect a problem with the speedometer cable.

Mark S @ 2009-08-26 17:22:58

[Subject]
My 73' Beetle won't start. Help!!?
[Question]
I have a new coil. I have power to the + side.When I turn the motor over,my point's don't spark. The motor has no condensor.The wire for my distributor, comes straight from the - side of the coil.When I pull the coil wire out of the coil and turn the motor over, I still have no spark to the coil wire, or point's.Car was running fine before ,i let it sit.

Michael @ 2009-08-26 15:58:45

[All Answers]
You might just need to replace the points. I had to do that on my 74 super back in February. 60 bucks and you will be back on the road!

vampyrtrivial @ 2009-08-26 16:55:23

It does have a condenser. it is mounted on the outside of the distributor. Otherwise you can crank till the cows come home and die. It needs the condenser to make the spark. Your points may not be spreading apart. Take a look with the cap and rotor off and key on(dash lights on) and rotate the distributor body and watch the points. If they don't spread apart, no spark will happen. Point gap= thickness of a business card. If the points do spread apart, and there is no spark then carefully look at the wiring from points to nut and from condenser to nut. Make sure nothing is grounding out to distributor metal cast.

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-26 17:06:37

if it doesnt have a condenser then its has an after market electronic points which can just take a shit at any random time. try to replace with a stock points and condenser, check for spark coming from the coil( not out of the distributor) if that sparks then check spark from distributor. also replace your Cap and Rotor, they can often get corroded and cause ignition issues. All of these parts are really cheap lke under $5 eash but good luck

and make sure your getting gas to the carb.

Jack D @ 2009-08-26 22:24:47