how bad are the old vw's?......?

[Subject]
how bad are the old vw's?......?
[Question]
i'm an almost 18 yr old girl and since i was like 12 i've always wanted an old model vw bug. my parents don't mind me getting one i just have to be willing to hold of getting everything done at one time. so my question is has anyone have or had had one and know if they really always break down and all that jazz or is my dad exaggrating. obviously they wont run great, i know, but are they ok for a daily car just going back and forth to a near by college?

ek @ 2009-08-24 17:03:28

[All Answers]
Great cars but everyone I've met who owned one is a car expert, because they've had to fix everything. I heard the engine can be removed in 5 min..

Mark @ 2009-08-24 17:15:26

They were very reliable cars back in the day, and relatively easy to repair; their great fuel mileage was just one feature that made them so popular. However, like any old car, they are prone to severe rusting, particularly in the floor pan ( beneath the seats), and the older they get, the scarcer parts become. The biggest challenge may be finding someone who has been in the business long enough to know how to work on them, and still has the tools to do so. That being said, if your heart is set on it, and you can find one that has been well maintained and/ or well restored for a reasonable price, they can be sensible everyday cars. However, depending on your financial situation, among other factors, a more modern car may be immensely more practical.

Good Hunting

the_legend_of_drunken_donkey @ 2009-08-24 17:43:42

One of the most dependable of their time,IF maintained.
Forget the bug (cute) and go for a Karmin Ghia ( FABULAS)
>>They are rear engined so need less air pressure int the front tires.<<

Dan W @ 2009-08-24 21:38:11

They are absolute not bad. I would be more afraid to buy an american car which is 4 Y old.

Susan @ 2009-08-24 22:25:30

[Subject]
Anyone know about older vw's?
[Question]
I just bought an 86 cabriolet and while it says to use the special anti-freeze made specifically for v-dub's and Audi's, is that necessary? May I use regular anti-freeze, or should I stick with the good stuff? The car is cherry with only 80,000 original miles.

Jayne Savage @ 2009-08-24 08:13:31

[Best Answer]VW models of your vintage use VW coolant "blue" which is phosphate free coolant. As long as the coolant you use is phosphate free coolant (it will say so on the label), it will be just fine. There some coolants on the market that are phosphate free. The cost difference is about 50% for the VW coolant, but at least you know its the right stuff.

Hope this helps,a car nut.

a car nut @ 1251128328

[All Answers]
usually antifreeze will label if it will work for your make of car check the jug. but if your not sure use the specifics.

300SD @ 2009-08-24 08:17:05

Most modern anti-freeze will be fine in your car. It wasn't the case 20 years ago. Some cars had aluminum blocks and cylinder heads. Others had cast iron. Modern anti-freeze has corosion protection for aluminum as most cars now have aluminum components.

hotdogseeksbun @ 2009-08-24 08:23:07

Regular antifreeze should work just fine.. (and a lot cheaper too!).

ca_surveyor @ 2009-08-24 08:26:56

VW models of your vintage use VW coolant "blue" which is phosphate free coolant. As long as the coolant you use is phosphate free coolant (it will say so on the label), it will be just fine. There some coolants on the market that are phosphate free. The cost difference is about 50% for the VW coolant, but at least you know its the right stuff.

Hope this helps,a car nut.

a car nut @ 2009-08-24 08:38:48

[Subject]
why does my volkswagen bus stall when I push in the brake pedal?
[Question]
I have 1978 Volkswagen Van. It is a fuel injected 2000cc engine that has been rebuilt less than 500 miles ago. Whenever I push in the brake pedal to stop it stalls. I've adjusted the idle already and that helps a little bit. The van idles fine in neutral and seems to drive fine. It's only when I apply any pressure to the brake pedal that the engine loses rpms and shutters and then stalls. Any ideas?

greenthumbed420 @ 2009-08-24 15:51:21

[All Answers]
Because it's 31 years old. Time for an upgrade!!

вавy і nєєd уоu ваd ♥ @ 2009-08-24 15:55:53

If it has power brakes then check the brake power booster. The booster works on engine vacuum and if it has a leaky diaphragm it will sometimes stall the engine out when the brakes are applied.

mustanger @ 2009-08-24 15:57:06

Automatic transmission? The transmission is dragging. Get it checked out. You may have in too much or the wrong type of tranny fluid. If it is a standard shift, then there is a clutch pedal you are suppose to depress and hold down while in gear and coming to a stop.
Otherwise, check all hoses and where they connect to. If you pull off each hose and inspect the hose end and see it is cracked and rock hard(you cannot squeeze it closed with your fingers(it is a rubber hose), then cut off a half inch and reconnect it. Will have a better seal. And that is all you need to do.

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-24 16:36:19

The most likely cause is a vacuum leak in the brake booster itself. When the brake pedal is depressed, the leak is pulling extra air into the engine, which leans out the fuel mixture, and causes it to stall.

the_legend_of_drunken_donkey @ 2009-08-24 17:54:10

[Subject]
information about vw t2 camper vans?
[Question]
if you own one, what are they like to drive, and live with, would you say they would be a good car to drive around everyday like in the week drive it to work and going surfing on the weekends and stuff like that, i know they can be slow, but if you get a new engine would it be better on motorways and stuff. if you have one what state did you buy it in? was it new or old. what have you done to it and what sort of stuff have you got in there like beds Kitchen stuff. i really want one but i need to know about prices of buying it and keeping it running, and if i want to go camping and stuff what things will i need in there like cooking equipment, toilets and beds thanks for your time

DeAdPeNnY @ 2009-08-24 09:07:25

[All Answers]
I want one as well. But i dont think you realise how much they cost.
I live in Europe and Germany will be the cheapest place to get one.
Still, for a decent looking and working T2 you are looking at at least €20.000. the ones that are mainly rust and have literally no engine will still be about €8.000,-
There goes the Hippie / surfers mentality. haha
Unless you are rich or Chip Foose, a T2 is probably not really an option. Plus they dont drive too great, unless you like being slow (very, very slow) its like driving a can with a moped engine.
they are just not really great for every day use.
You could get a new engine put in, but that is really 'not-done', as they are collectors items, so you should keep it original.

I know, its a bummer, because they look great. But have you ever looked at getting a T3? They are still widely available and you can get one that works and looks decent at €5.000 or less. Their engines are more powerfull and efficient, the parts are easy enough to get and affordable, they are safer, have more space and they are allright for daily use.

Ok its not really the proper hippie - surfer camper. But in a few years they are classics as well, And they are pretty cool. And they just make more common sense.

I personally got a bit annoyed with the T2, it is a over valued and really has nothing to do with what they were intended to be. they are more an unaffordable icon, than something you can actually use like a surfer would.
Would you drive your €25.000 campervan on to the beach, leave it behind unsupervised, have a campfire next to it and invite people in it?

Go for the T3, cool (80's) handy and affordable, the way the Transporters were meant to be

Gree @ 2009-08-24 09:31:57

I've owned 4 Buses over 30yrs and 2 camper or Westies, there great and everything you listed help.
My current 1 is a1978 w sunroof 2liter and runs fine,there fun to drive and hard to find in any kind of good condition.
If your planning on buying one that you can turn the key, the $ amount will be approx $8000.00-$15000.00 yes these are right prices.Of course you can find a rusted one and then put in all the thousands of $$ to get it where it's a daily driver.

DR DEAL @ 2009-08-24 14:31:42

I've owned a 1974 camper at one time. Here in California they are still fairly common and for the most part rust free units. It is absolutely true that they are extremely s-l-o-w and have a very difficult time keeping up with modern day traffic. I wrote about this very issue on type II vehicles, (see my answer history) and don't think that they are a good choice of vehicle for an everyday driver.

There have been a number of power train conversions done to a type II to improve the lack of power that these are known for. Some involved using a Corvair motor, I've heard of at least one conversion using a Subaru motor, or most common, modify the engine that you already have. The late model type II, use a 1.7 liter, 1.8 or 2.0 liter motor based upon the type IV. These are usually thought to be the best choices to modify, rather than the beetle motors that were used earlier.

A full camper will have a propane type stove, some will have a ice box, some very late model units might even have an electric refrigerator in them. Fold down seat into a bed and foam mattress for use for people to sleep in the area above by the pop top (when its up).

Safety is a big problem with these vehicles; high wind resistance (hard to keep control of it in a strong cross wind at freeway speeds), the front drum brake models are to be avoided, a weak heater and defroster (though some modifications can help both of these issues), no ABS, no power steering, odd bus like steering wheel position, no front crash protection and fairly poor fuel economy mid teens if your lucky at freeway speeds and stock examples struggle to make 70 mph. (again see an earlier response I gave)

Finally, as everyone else has told you: rust is a large problem in the chasis of these vehicles. Here in California, rust is not as much of an issue as general mechanical condition is. If possible, I'd recommend you borrow or rent one and drive it for a day or two before deciding if this is for you.

Hope this helps, a car nut.

a car nut @ 2009-08-24 15:13:05

I could never afford to buy one ,but have driven several types of air cooled VW, and the normal handling problem was the front end would start to lift and then weave,caused by the lack of a front air dam spoiler under the front bumper, an alternative to the VW t1,t3,t4, cure of a paving slab or a bag of cement in the boot space at the front,this is not a cure for the van only way was to either lower the suspension or fit an air dam spoiler ,the ones i saw were neat looking and good at keeping the van on the straight and narrow,prices are very expensine as T2s are rarer and rare also agood ones very hard to find without extensive rebuilding , a type 3 as was suggested would be better and you can check what equipment is fitted before purchasing.
Cheers And happy hunting either way T2 or T3.

Spiker44 @ 2009-08-24 15:39:13

[Subject]
2006 VW Passat - I changed Battery now radio doesn't work. I have radio code, please help!?
[Question]
Please let me know what is necessary to get my radio working again. I hav ethe radio code but it's not responsive at all to enter the code.
I already have the code, I simply don't have any way to input code. Thanks.

Michael B @ 2009-08-24 09:29:22

[All Answers]
The radio code should be in the owners manual that came with the car in the glove box. The other way is to pull the radio out and get the serial numbers off it and call the dealer. OR you can take the car to them and they will do it. I had a friend at the dealer thats how I got my codes to mine when I replaced the battery. I dunno if they will for sure give it to you over the phone. But its not the end of the world

jeffreyt @ 2009-08-24 09:36:21

if you have the a/m f/m stereo with cd then you set the codes with the radio pre-set buttons and then push the up arrow on the search button.

if youhave nav and/or satt then you use the pre-sets and push the ok button.

the pre-sets going lt to rt, the first # in your code is the first pre-set and so on and so on.

if you mess up 3 times then the radio goes into SAFE MODE and you must leave the ignition on and radio for 1 hour before you get 3 more attempts

good luck

IKE @ 2009-08-24 14:18:30