How do I make my Jetta sound like a truck?

[Subject]
How do I make my Jetta sound like a truck?
[Question]
I want my White '08 Jetta SE (manual) to be badass and super loud! Any suggestions?

maggie m @ 2009-08-28 23:01:29

[All Answers]
Smash the muffler off.

Tom @ 2009-08-28 23:09:06

Purchase a large bobtail truck and drive the Jetta inside; then it will sound like a truck :}

not 2 B fooled @ 2009-08-28 23:09:06

free flow muffler.

Ian Burgler @ 2009-08-28 23:09:29

Change the muffler, put off road heavy duty tires, and have the soundproofing material removed from the engine compartment and the dashboard. Then you will basically be hearing all the explosions that go inside your engines cylinders.

Rob @ 2009-08-28 23:13:11

If you have every watched Pimp my Ride on MTV then you might be familar with a device called a VROOM BOX. It is an electronic type device installed in you car. It will make your car sound like any vehicle on the road. A lambo or a mustang, camero, and even a big monster truck if wanted to. And all at a touch of a button. Very cool stuff.

Stuck with the bill @ 2009-08-28 23:15:08

put a hole or two in the exhaust.

Eureka24 @ 2009-08-28 23:20:41

You can just remove everything from the CATS (Catalytic Converter) back. Also remove the CATS. That will be loud. But you can also put a type of muffler called Glass Packs that will make it louder. But to be like a truck it all depends what type of truck? If you want a big rig then I don't think its possible.

Will @ 2009-08-29 04:28:27

buy a truck

edizzle @ 2009-08-29 16:11:53

It looks like a monstrosity already - just disconnect the exhaust manifold and it will sound like it looks - terrible.

Hopeless @ 2009-08-30 09:56:49

Don't listen to these people [especially the one that calls a Catalytic Converter 'CATS' haha]. You want your Jetta to sound like a truck *sigh* alright so then just get a side pipe exhaust set up. Go to a custom exhaust shop and tell yhem you want a side pipe set up. Tell them from behind the catalytic converter, just have a pipe without a resonator and have it exit infront of the rear driverside wheel (right UNDER the sideskirt). Put a metal plate on the skirt so the exhaust doesn't burn your pain though. I'll provide pictures so you can see what I mean. ALSO MAKE SURE YOU TELL THEM TO WRAP YOUR E-BRAKE CABLE so it doesn't melt. For some reason, I don't believe you'll do it lol, so when it's done, let me know how it goes!

Here's a MKIV Golf with a side pipe set up..this is what you should show the muffler shop...he only has a pipe after the cat converter [keep it legal dont get rid of the cat]
http://www.vermontracing.com/remote_posting/18t_project/76.jpg

Here's a MKIV Jetta with an oval tip side exit exhaust.. (look INFRONT of the rear wheel)
http://www.benlevy.com/auto/show/tref08/img_1232.jpg

Here's a MKIII Jetta showing the UNDERSIDE. This person has a muffler, but you want to sound super loud so no muffler for you. Give them this picture *the muffler shop u goin to* for an idea. I'm sure the underbody if your MKV looks different but still.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/bmx_v_dubdub/Side%20Exhaust/DSCN3662.jpg

Here's another MKIII Jetta wiht underbody pictures of his set up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/luckyzeee/P3080002.jpg

This person [MKIII Jetta] has the metal around his exhaust tip so his paint wont get f'd up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/mk3jett/exh3006.jpg

Here's a MKIII JEtta with a side pipe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/luckyzeee/11a.jpg

Here's a MKIV
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/saidandone/shoot6.jpg


Go to VWVortex.com too. I'm on there, go on the MKV [cause you have a MKV Jetta (Mark five aka fifth generation Jetta)

TriNStylZ @ 2009-08-30 15:23:23

[Subject]
Where can I buy brand new VW camper van that looks like an old one?
[Question]
Perferibly in Calfornia.

I want one that looks exactly like the old ones.

Thank you!
x

I need to sneeze @ 2009-08-29 01:43:35

[All Answers]
You can not. They are no longer made.

rottendog93 @ 2009-08-29 02:06:24

They don't make them in "retro" styles, so you can't buy a new one that looks like the old.

However, you can buy an old one that has been restored to look and operate like new. But be prepared to pay a lot of money for these; the owners are quite proud of them.

OldJimmy @ 2009-08-29 05:17:17

"exactly like the old ones" = www.gowesty.com (in CA) cost: about $25,000

well-maintained = www.thesamba.com cost: $10-15,000

potteryguy @ 2009-08-29 06:00:14

I got mine TODAY.:D
It's so pretty.
um.
and my dad looked everywhere!
for one here in california.
he had to drive to Mexico to get it. lol.

it's brand new, shiny and amazing.

it cost $25,000
totally worth it.

Wendylas @ 2009-08-29 18:07:21

You are gonna have to leave California. The dope smoke is getting to you.

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-29 20:51:30

They still sell them in Brazil but you can't register them in the US. You can get an address in Brazil, register it there, and drive it here. The only problem is that you have to go back to Brazil every (I think) 60 days or you will have to register it in the US (which you can't). They don't look exactly like the old ones, it looks like an old one with a goatee.

Prime @ 2009-08-29 21:58:04

[Subject]
VW Golf question..../?
[Question]
Is it possible to have the remote key fob of my Golf programmed to close any of the car windows that have been left open when I lock the doors. 2007 model

Mrs Mack @ 2009-08-30 08:24:32

[All Answers]
I don't think so, but sometimes if you have an alarm fitted it can be set to close windows and an electric sunroof when it is armed from the remote control.

Gizzard Puke @ 2009-08-30 08:41:32

some vws already do that as standard go too the car and hold the lock button of the remote with a window down youll need too hold it in for about 30 secs

ivortskivor @ 2009-08-30 09:33:08

The remote control is not programmed for the windows, only for the doors and there is no program or electronic equiment available for updating.
Please be carefull with actions on the remote control because there is also the possibilty that the transponder in this remote control will refuse to recognize your car so car will not start.

carlock @ 2009-08-30 10:28:41

As has already been said, it should already be programmed to do so. Press the door lock button and hold it, and the windows should go up. You need to keep the button held down though.

vavavoom @ 2009-08-31 01:08:56

yes on the mk5 & mk6 you can set it up with the diagnostic ask the Vw dealer you can set these functions.
1) Doors to lock above 5mph anti hijack mode/ once key removed from ignition will auto unlock again.
2) Auto Windows Up & Down when vehicle locked and unlocked.
3) Selective Unlocking so only one press unlocks all doors.

turboextreme @ 2009-08-31 01:15:45

Yes, I Think you can do so. You can confirm it from http://www.volkspares.co.uk.

Raju @ 2009-08-31 04:08:03

[Subject]
Owners of older Volkswagen Jettas at what age and mileage would you expect to be the average lifespan mileage?
[Question]
Please give your experience, your history of ownership.

If looking for an older used one, what year models are best and how far back is the furthest I should reliably be looking?

Also - What are typical problems to look out for on this vehicle?

djhartmannn @ 2009-08-29 12:47:52

[All Answers]
About 250,000 Miles

Ricky K @ 2009-08-29 13:12:04

I'm sort of in the same boat as you, looking to buy a Jetta, Golf or ideally and Audi A4 with a 1.8T, year 2000-2003. I'm looking to stay under that 130,000km mark, but I too am wondering how long one can expect these cars to run.

gocanuckzgo @ 2009-08-29 15:50:22

MKIII and below [MKI is anything from 1984 and earlier, MKII 1985-1991/2 and MKIII is 1993-1998 i think] will..WILL last 300k miles if you take good care of them. I've owned a mKII with most all original parts (except alternator, shocks and power steering pump) and still ran great well past 150k miles.

For MKIII [1994-1998] Jetta engines, 2.0 engines will live forever. VR6's need added care but will live forever. 1.8t won't ever lose. I know many many people with high mileage earlier model Jettas. These things will rust out before the engine dies if you take good care of it.

Problems to look out for? RUST! Unnder the rocker panel, behind the gas fill door, in the engine bay, under the seam sealer in the bay, FLOOR BOARDS, control arms....look out for rust!

2.0 engines...don't even worry. VR6 engines, make sure the previous owner changed the timing change when it needs to be changed via Owners Manual. Also, change the crackpipe [coolant pipe..they are plastic/rubber material so they tend to crack, get a metal one from any VW enthusiast company]. I don't know much about 1.8 turbo engines so I can't say there. Make sure you check vacuum lines for any air leaks, check the tension on all belts (with your finger). And yeah...it's really not a big deal.

MKII's tend to be a pain in the ass some times if you get a bad one, but if they are taken good care of...you'll fall in love.

If you really REALLY want a reliable one, get a Jetta between the years 1994-1998. Get the 2.0L engine one in manual. The Automatics are called 'autotragic' for a reason. However, if ever your automatic dies out, get one from a B3 or B4 Passat [cheaap] and throw it in. Much stronger.

2.0L MKIII's aren't a headache, so I'd go for that if I was you. People call them 2.slows but they aren't that slow. They have enough pep to keep up on the highways and what not. Volkswagens have lots of low end torque and MPG...my goodness. It's a blessing. There are always small upgrade you can do to get some more acceleration, torque, and/or horsepower. Nothing too serious needs to be done.

VW|Audi|Porsche guy. Visit VWVortex if you need more help.

TriNStylZ @ 2009-08-30 14:49:55

My wife's 2005 Jetta has been [and continues to be] a superb car. It has never let us down. We have 77k reliable miles on it and we plan on driving it forever!
We have had other VWs with mileages as high as 170k that simply were a pleasure to own.
Disregard others who would tell you the Myth that VW parts are high. We have owned other makes of cars and have found that VW parts are no more than Toyota, Mazda, Ford, etc.
IMO, use only synthetic oil in turbos. And change oil/filter every 5k.

fenton @ 2009-08-31 07:58:00

[Subject]
on a 2009 volkswagen jetta i have a light on its red ,circle with line going thru it?
[Question]
anyone tell me what this is

Sandi @ 2009-08-29 14:03:59

[Best Answer]That is the TPMS
Tire Pressure Monitoring System.

Check all you tire and make sure they are inflated properly, when I got mine The light was on all tires were at 32 PSI, had to bump it up to 35(PSI recommendation on tires) to get the light to go out.

bluesfan01_75 @ 1251627947

[All Answers]
No I don't know , but yours owners manual will tell you and it is full of that kind of information.................md

Uncle Jed @ 2009-08-29 14:08:53

I think it means that your fog lamps are on, but check your owners manual. It will tell you in there.

Kenny @ 2009-08-29 14:32:07

That is the TPMS
Tire Pressure Monitoring System.

Check all you tire and make sure they are inflated properly, when I got mine The light was on all tires were at 32 PSI, had to bump it up to 35(PSI recommendation on tires) to get the light to go out.

bluesfan01_75 @ 2009-08-30 03:25:47

...Seriously? Look through your owners manual instead of asking here.

TriNStylZ @ 2009-08-30 14:36:01

Which VW Golf should I buy as an everyday car?

[Subject]
Which VW Golf should I buy as an everyday car?
[Question]
I'm looking to buy a golf because I like them but I don't know whether to buy a.. GTI, V6 4Motion, R32. I have cash to buy any, as long as it's a few years old but I don't particularly want extortionate running costs and neither do I want a boring, slow car so what should I do?

Mat @ 2009-08-26 13:04:48

[All Answers]
It's a V'R'6, not just v6;). But what you mentioned is all the same car, haha. I would go with the 1.8T GTI or the R32. Considering that you said everyday driving. Go with the 1.8T. cheaper parts, better gas mileage. Or you could go old school and get a mk2 GTI.

Calvin W @ 2009-08-26 13:09:10

The new GTI 2.0T get nice gas mileage (around 32 on the highway) and have awesome torque. Look at the specs and decide.

alex_713 @ 2009-08-26 13:13:29

the 2.0 litre TDI 140 GT 3dr is the best if u don't want a sporty Gti, it is also available as a 5door as well if that's wat ur looking 4.

And it does 57.6 miles per gallon on petrol as well so its good on fuel 2

If ur looking 4 a Diesel 4 cheaper running costs, get the TDI SE which is also both 3 and 5 door. This has an astonishing 61.2mpg.

Note:they don't currently sell the R32 vesion in the UK
Hope this helped

Aust @ 2009-08-26 13:20:12

well im getting a v6 4motion next month, so id say that, but running costs will be high for both the v6 and the r32. they are the fastest and the most kitted out inside(leather, wood, electrics etc), but are 2.8l and 3.2 l. the r32 is barely faster than the 4motion and not worth the extra £3000 an r32 demands. the gti's are more practical. the 2.0 is the worst, the 1.8gti turbo is fun but still FWD whereas the 4motion and r32 are AWD, and only produces 150bhp, which for a 1.8 turbo isn't that great, it wont be slow but wont be majorly fast as its a low pressure turbocharger.

so as an everyday car, the 1.8 turbo (4motion returns 25-30mpg) although the r32 and 4motion are top of the range. just dont get the 1.6 or 1.4!! there SLOW! the 1.4 has 75bhp to a 1.5 ton car!

r32, 246bhp

4motion, 204 bhp

1.8T gti, 150 bhp

2.0l gti, 115bhp

Chris @ 2009-08-26 13:42:11

None of them, they're over-priced, over-rated expensive to maintain and dull as dishwater.
Get a Focus ST or Astra VXR instead.

Bill W @ 2009-08-26 14:33:44

Any of the golfs are good. I have a 1987 Golf GL with 250000 miles so any should last you for quite a while.

Sarah @ 2009-08-26 19:29:00

Golf GT Diesel.

roger.williams20@btinternet.com @ 2009-08-27 02:34:04

[Subject]
What is the gap supposed to be on the points of an 1835 volkswagen motor?
[Question]

FYI 1835 refers to the size of the motor, not the year *facepalms*

vampyrtrivial @ 2009-08-26 16:54:13

[All Answers]
15 to 18 thousands of an inch

davidlill @ 2009-08-26 17:15:52

You may have typed that that incorrectly, I believe in 1835 that would have been between the horses.
Edit: 0.028.

Mark @ 2009-08-26 17:29:42

i dont really know but i have a friend that owns a vw shop that specializes in older vw's and i bet he knows. i will e-mail you once i've contacted him. cool?

ok, i called him. the gap is 16 thousandths. His business is in Longview, Texas. Oak Hill Automotive. 903-297-3496. the old guys name is Clark.

i see that someone is marking me a thumbs down and that's alright. even as my answer is correct. as a consultant it is not my job to know everything but to be able to find the answer to a question in order to make good decisions. i find out and try not to make 'educated guesses'

IKE @ 2009-08-27 05:36:38

.016in.

Tomato @ 2009-08-27 08:24:44

Straight from the manual

Contact breaker gap = 0.4mm (0.016 in)
Dwell angle = 47° ± 3°

Replica @ 2009-08-27 12:56:02

[Subject]
air conditioner on vw beetle?
[Question]
i have a 98 vw new beetle and my air conditioner has broken a few times.
first all start by saying how it was broken, my bf's father but free-on in the tube or whatever to make the air colder because it wasnt cold enough.. well he didnt check the levels before doing so.
well, a week later it started making extremely LOUD noises and stopped working.
well we changed the fuse.. that didn't work.
i took it to a shop and they played around with the wires right behind my radio and it worked for about 3 days but they told me to be very gentle with it or it would come loose and not work anymore. i was plenty gentle with it and it stopped working anyways.
well, now you can feel the air.. it will heat up and cool down but it will not blow the air out.
can anyone tell me what it is?
is it the blower motor?
OH and the first time i had taken it to a shop and they replaced a "chip" or something it was located underneath my glove box.. that didn't fix it either.
here is a little more info im a 20 year old girl so forgive me, lol.
nothing was even touched under the hood. they only thing that was touched was the "chip" that is located underneath my glove box. and that didn't fix it. they have messed with the wires right behind my radio and it fixed it for a about 3 days but then it stopped and i will give you more info on that.. i took it to "the garage" the day before i was about to leave on a 14 hour drive from Tennessee to Missouri and they knew about this road trip a week in advance but suggested that i come in that day and when i got it there they replaced the chip with a brand new one directly under the glove box because they were certain that that was going to fix the problem! well, it didn't and they had no time left before i had to leave so the "mechanic" said well i will "rig" it for you.. and he started messing with those wires behind my radio and it worked for 3 days before coming loose.. this wasn't a permanent fix....
Lam Sanders: they were professional mechanics [or so they said] but you are right that is basically what they did.. was "rigged" my car and broke it more because now my dash everything above and below my radio falls apart.. when i am driving it falls down at any given moment because they never fixed it

☆ripcitychick☆ @ 2009-08-26 23:30:17

[All Answers]
blow it up!!!!!!!

dakgraha @ 2009-08-26 23:33:40

Talk about a rip off. Here's a simple but common fix. Try unclogging the air wave and check if everything is connected fully without any small rips. They probably thought something overheated and the chip got damaged but it's more like something is clogging the airwave.

MyntzSmg @ 2009-08-26 23:34:55

it is hard to follow the problem you are trying to describe. but i will stab at it. it is a known failure that the heater door inside the air distrubition housing will break from its pivots where it swings open or shut to direct hot/cold air. it is inside the big black plastic housing behind the radio/a/c controls. are you sure the other shop replaced a 'chip' or a 'clip'? could be that the door is free moving and letting the cold air mix with the heater air and the air flow gets misdirected from top vents to floor. crazy. your request is hard to understand but unless more and better imfo is given this is all i can "guess" at.

IKE @ 2009-08-27 05:59:01

"a shop" does not sound like a mechanical repair shop. So that is one of your problems. They just broke it more. No shop(a proper repair faucility would have to tell you "be gentle with it". These guys sounds like ones who use duct-tape and tie-wire to repair things.
Take it to VW dealership and be prepared to buy the whole darn unit. Freon not only keeps you cool, it is the lubricant for the air conditioning pump. If the level gets too low the pump runs dry and it seizes. No different than running the car engine with too little motor oil - it too will seize up...and you will have a solid block of metal(instead of a block with moving parts).
So, I am guessing from your story, you were in need of a freon recharge because there is a leak someplace.....that was not addressed...the fan motor power was bypassed so it ran regardless of whether the air-conditioner unit was cold or not and now it sounds like it is fried too.
You will have to resort to the older time tested and proven method of VW air-conditioning--opening a window.
This not going to be cheap to fix(which a freon fill was all it really needed most likely) But that "was" in the beginning....

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-27 08:23:19

[Subject]
2001 volkswagan jetta making loud clicking sound when get up to 60mph?
[Question]
I have a 2001 Volkswagan jetta and when i get up to 60 mph or pull out on the interstate it starts making a loud clicking sound What could this be?

Pam @ 2009-08-26 16:59:21

[All Answers]
My friend had a similar problem. It was the evap service port line on the left side of the engine compartment vibrating against the inside of the fender. I just bent it in and no problem.

vampyrtrivial @ 2009-08-26 17:07:32

The hamster cage belt needs tightening.

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-26 17:09:36

Vampyrtrivial may be right, but if the clicking increases in frequency with an increase in speed above 60 you might suspect a problem with the speedometer cable.

Mark S @ 2009-08-26 17:22:58

[Subject]
My 73' Beetle won't start. Help!!?
[Question]
I have a new coil. I have power to the + side.When I turn the motor over,my point's don't spark. The motor has no condensor.The wire for my distributor, comes straight from the - side of the coil.When I pull the coil wire out of the coil and turn the motor over, I still have no spark to the coil wire, or point's.Car was running fine before ,i let it sit.

Michael @ 2009-08-26 15:58:45

[All Answers]
You might just need to replace the points. I had to do that on my 74 super back in February. 60 bucks and you will be back on the road!

vampyrtrivial @ 2009-08-26 16:55:23

It does have a condenser. it is mounted on the outside of the distributor. Otherwise you can crank till the cows come home and die. It needs the condenser to make the spark. Your points may not be spreading apart. Take a look with the cap and rotor off and key on(dash lights on) and rotate the distributor body and watch the points. If they don't spread apart, no spark will happen. Point gap= thickness of a business card. If the points do spread apart, and there is no spark then carefully look at the wiring from points to nut and from condenser to nut. Make sure nothing is grounding out to distributor metal cast.

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-26 17:06:37

if it doesnt have a condenser then its has an after market electronic points which can just take a shit at any random time. try to replace with a stock points and condenser, check for spark coming from the coil( not out of the distributor) if that sparks then check spark from distributor. also replace your Cap and Rotor, they can often get corroded and cause ignition issues. All of these parts are really cheap lke under $5 eash but good luck

and make sure your getting gas to the carb.

Jack D @ 2009-08-26 22:24:47

Is a VW... A good car?

[Subject]
Is a VW... A good car?
[Question]
Is a 1999 VW Beetle a good car? I'm thinking about getting one & need to know, thanks.

Crista E @ 2009-08-25 09:48:15

[All Answers]
I wouldn't even think about it.
Mechanical (especially electrical system) nightmares.

You will end up spending more in repairs over the next couple of years than you will pay for the car.

Stupid Flanders @ 2009-08-25 09:51:49

I agree with Stupid Flanders. Thats 10 years old and VW replacement parts are expensive.

Kemo @ 2009-08-25 09:53:01

Flanders is right. Every vw owner i know same shit always breaks. alwayssss

they are always breaking glove box cig lighter middle counsol.
they are pretty to some hot chicks but they stink. trust me

Made up Name @ 2009-08-25 09:53:10

This link will give you 84 owner reviews for that make, model and year:
http://www.edmunds.com/volkswagen/newbeetle/1999/consumerreview.html

They may rave about them, but I haven't met anyone who hasn't been let down by Volkswagen's quality. It is also probably made in Mexico.

wilson @ 2009-08-25 09:54:20

Flanders speak with forked tongue. The new VW Beetle is basically a VW Golf/Rabbit with different bodywork.VWs are a pretty solid car these days and have been for years.

GibsonEssGee @ 2009-08-25 09:55:07

I own a 2001 New Beetle, bought new, and (with reservations) really like it. It had a lot of minor problems at first, but it handles well and is economic to run and is a lot of fun to drive. I think the crappy dealer I had was a major part of the problem. That being said, I haven't had a major problem with it. People are always waving which is cool.

Make sure you have a mechanic look over this car before you sign on the dotted line. The 1999 was the first year and they had some problems that took awhile to fix, although after being driven for 10 years, your model should have them all fixed by now. Consumer's Reports rates the Beetle pretty low as a used car.

Two things that will drive you crazy are the cup holders and sun visors.

If you can get a good deal and the mechanic clears the car, I'd say you'll have a nice set of wheels.

Jim_of_Oz @ 2009-08-25 10:00:47

I've never owned a newer volkswagen... but I've owned plenty of older ones... if I were you I would forget all about EVER owning one!! These things are JUNK!!!! nothing but problems..............

greenthumbed420 @ 2009-08-25 10:28:39

they're mechanically reliable and pretty safe but they have a lot of little problems that are expensive to fix since its volkswagen. but I wouldnt trade my car

BTW I own a 2001 v6 passat glx with the tiptronic transmission

Cassie @ 2009-08-25 11:34:16

honestly? if you really want a vw beetle, buy a classic one. You can get them very very reasonable, with new engines. Plus they were built so much better in the 60's and 70's

MR. Nervous... @ 2009-08-25 12:30:59

I have a 2001 jetta and absolutly love it. I have never had anything major go wrong with it. Just like with any other car if it has had regular maintnance it will run great.

jbbassist91 @ 2009-08-25 12:56:48

[Subject]
how bad are the old vw's?......?
[Question]
i'm an almost 18 yr old girl and since i was like 12 i've always wanted an old model vw bug. my parents don't mind me getting one i just have to be willing to hold of getting everything done at one time. so my question is has anyone have or had had one and know if they really always break down and all that jazz or is my dad exaggrating. obviously they wont run great, i know, but are they ok for a daily car just going back and forth to a near by college?

ek @ 2009-08-24 17:03:28

[All Answers]
Great cars but everyone I've met who owned one is a car expert, because they've had to fix everything. I heard the engine can be removed in 5 min..

Mark @ 2009-08-24 17:15:26

They were very reliable cars back in the day, and relatively easy to repair; their great fuel mileage was just one feature that made them so popular. However, like any old car, they are prone to severe rusting, particularly in the floor pan ( beneath the seats), and the older they get, the scarcer parts become. The biggest challenge may be finding someone who has been in the business long enough to know how to work on them, and still has the tools to do so. That being said, if your heart is set on it, and you can find one that has been well maintained and/ or well restored for a reasonable price, they can be sensible everyday cars. However, depending on your financial situation, among other factors, a more modern car may be immensely more practical.

Good Hunting

the_legend_of_drunken_donkey @ 2009-08-24 17:43:42

One of the most dependable of their time,IF maintained.
Forget the bug (cute) and go for a Karmin Ghia ( FABULAS)
>>They are rear engined so need less air pressure int the front tires.<<

Dan W @ 2009-08-24 21:38:11

They are absolute not bad. I would be more afraid to buy an american car which is 4 Y old.

Susan @ 2009-08-24 22:25:30

Excellent cars. I have had many of them (I'm 16), but I kept my first, second, and fourth. My daily driver is a 1973 standard. It is very reliable, and when it does break it is super easy to fix. There is no need for a garage, everything was specifically designed to be very easy to fix with common toolbox essentials. When they are cold, they are quite choppy (blame this on carburation) but when warm they run super smooth. The only time when they will be unreliable in any way is when they were beat on throughout their lives. That will make any car unreliable, but especially a car that is not made to be a race car. I used mine on a 12K mile road trip and it ran like nothing else. I wouldn't ever use another car for such a trip. I think you can use it as a daily driver. Don't believe your dad. Even if he's telling the truth do ask him how he drove his. If he beat the living shit out of it, it was obviously unreliable. If he took very good care of it, it will last forever. I have almost 150K on mine, got it with 63K two years ago (recently got my license, I've been driving a lot to celebrate). It has the original engine. Even the original clutch. Drive it carefully and it will be the best car you've ever owned. Be sure to check the oil once a week or every 500 miles at most, since they burn oil. Don't think it is a bad thing that it burns oil because it was actually designed to. It keeps the upper cyls lubercated, and it is basically a by-product of it being aircooled. So do make sure you're not running dry. Other than that, have a lot of fun.

Oh yea, forgot to mention this- parts for the 73 are very easy to come by. I can get all my consumables at Auto Zone, and they are cheaper than parts for Hondas. There isn't much to break anyway, and everything that you have to break is simple and cheap. Other parts I get over at a Beetle specialty place. More significant parts are harder to come by, naturally since it's an older car, but to maintain it is a matter of a few minutes to your local parts store.

Prime @ 2009-08-25 06:41:15

Volkswagen's are GREAT cars!I have 8 of them. The one I drive the most is my 1971 Beetle. And if a Volkswagen always breaks down, it's because the owner isn't treating it right. If you buy one, also make sure you get the VW manual for it. These cars are soooo easy to work on, almost like a lawn mower with an attitude. A lot of people drive them as if they are race cars, NOT! A lot of people also either forget to check the oil, or they put too much oil IN them, and in both cases, that's bad. I drive mine from Las Vegas Nevada, to Phoenix Arizona, and it Only takes 3/4 of a tank of gas, that's almost 400 miles. I am a female, and know how to change the spark plugs, do the timing, change the oil, change the clutch cable, and a few other things. I read the VW manual and this car is almost self explanatory. I wish you luck and welcome to the cool world of VW'S!

Bug @ 2009-08-25 07:14:55

If you were smart you'd forget about owning a volkswagen PERIOD... regardless of the year but especially and older ones. I've owned plenty of them (and still do) and I wish that I could go back in time and never get involved with any VW. I know a little bit about working on these things too... and it's a never ending circle... my bus breaks down in some form or fashion about every 4-5 days and this is after putting over $8000 into restoring it. Please do yourself a huge favor and get a Toyota, Honda or something similar that doesn't have all these issues.

greenthumbed420 @ 2009-08-25 10:33:48

Well, think about how many of the old beetles you still see on the road.

THEN remember that they were last made in 1974 so they are ALL at least 30+ years old AND STILL RUNNING.

Other issues to know:
1) Parts are still available and easy to get from many sources
2) Most repairs are easily made by the owner. (Buy the self help books that were written back int he 60's and 70's - worth their weight in gold).
3) Good mileage.. between 25 and 28 over most conditions.
4) To get long life they require regular and routine oil changes.. at least every other month. and an annual lube job.
5) Fun to drive.. you will ALWAYS have someone come up to you and tell you 'their story' about the vw they used to have. Nice way to meet people.
6) Cheap insurance
7) and best off all.. that $1000 car you buy today will be worth $1200 next year... try that with a rice rocket.

.

ca_surveyor @ 2009-08-25 13:19:58

[Subject]
Where are VW cars manufactured?
[Question]
Specifically the GTI.
Are they manufactured in Germany or are they built somewhere else?
I've heard that they build some cars in Mexico.
Can you buy models made in Germany?
As much info is appreciated.

Eric411 @ 2009-08-24 21:36:42

[All Answers]
They are now made in Dresden, Germany. May14, 2009 they announced building a new plant in Chattanooga, TN. I think their Mexico plant closed when the last Bug rolled off the line in 1990.

eferrell01 @ 2009-08-24 22:14:15

VW produce most cars in Germany but they now own so many makes that bits are made all over Europe and assembled in one place.

Wolfsburg was the main factory for VW but there are others.

If you want a European VW then you can buy one but be aware that they are Euro Spec and will not be road legal in the USA. i'm unaware of exactly what needs to be modified other than the lights and turn signals

Gavin R @ 2009-08-25 09:48:24

My 2001 New Beetle was assembled/built in Mexico.

Jim_of_Oz @ 2009-08-25 10:04:26

the vw plant in mexico is still open and employees about 80,000 people. it is located in puebla mexico and they manufacture for sale in the USA the new beetle and jetta

IKE @ 2009-08-25 10:09:39

Built in a number of countries throughout the world.
----------------
Based in Wolfsburg Germany, the Volkswagen Group is the world’s fourth-largest automobile manufacturer, and the largest car producer in Europe.

The Group operates 44 manufacturing facilities. These are found in 12 European countries, as well as six countries in the Americas, Asia and Africa.

(see http://www.vw.co.za/about/group/)
--------------
Has factories in Mexico, Australia and South Africa.


--------
For info on SA VW see http://www.vw.co.za/about/vwsa/

Established in 1946, Volkswagen of South Africa is a wholly owned subsidiary of Volkswagen Aktiengessellschaft (VWAG) in Germany. It is the largest German investment in South Africa and is a major contributor to foreign direct investment, technology transfer and skills development. Volkswagen of South Africa is located in Uitenhage,
--------------


(see also this web site http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=4871)

Includes countries such as Spain, China and Poland, however my knowledge does not extend to VW in these countries.

Indicates that GTI was built in Spain, South Africa and Germany.

--------------------
Notably, Australia and South Africa are right hand vehicles, German/European are left hand drive.

-------------------------------

In India

http://indianautosblog.com/2009/07/volkswagen-up-to-be-manufactured-in-india-for-900-euros
--------------------

Replica @ 2009-08-25 13:05:49

[Subject]
what's wrong with my 70 beetle ?
[Question]
my 70 beetle turns on just fine ill drive it around 4 like 15 mins then ill stop an turn off my beetle an the engine keeps goin for a few secs then it'll turn off ?

what cud be wrong with my beetle ?

maybe i have to clean da carb ?

or what else can be wrong with it ?

BigBoi @ 2009-08-24 23:59:13

[All Answers]
I think its doing that b/v its too hot. I would make sure the spark plugs are gapped correctly, and look at air filter. Good luck.

JcL @ 2009-08-25 00:10:52

he wants hes mummy...

uh, its probably just cooing off/down. clean the fillter, maybe that will help.

Joanne @ 2009-08-25 01:36:15

Okay, your idle screw on the side of your carburetor is turned up too fast, so it's like it's giving the motor the wrong message. If you don't know how to adjust that screw, have someone who "does" know, show you how, okay? I have 8 Volkswagen's, one of which is a 1971, and I
can remember having to do this one time....it's really easy. Or if you have a VW manual, just look it up on how to adjust that screw, okay? Good luck, and welcome to the world of VW'S.

Bug @ 2009-08-25 06:41:25

Your engine is still running because the carb is still injecting fuel into the engine and the hot cylinders are firing it even with the ingnition shut off.

Later model Carbs have a fuel shut off valve which stopped this problem.

You have three options

1) Try letting it idle for a little bit before you shut it off. That may cool it down enough to stop the knock.

2) Replace the carb with one with the shut off valve or, if you have the valve already, replace the valve because it is faulty. While you are in there check your carb adjustments too.

3) Turn the engine off with the car in gear and your foot on the brake. When you release the clutch the engine will stop.


THe last technique is not too great for the wear and tear on your engine, but the 'out of timing' knocking is a bit worse, so this is the lesser of two evils.

... hope that helps.

.

ca_surveyor @ 2009-08-25 08:25:28

[Subject]
A Hard Day's Night, 1964?
[Question]
Is A hard Days Night a good movie?

BellaBeatle @ 2009-08-25 00:39:05

[Best Answer]It wasn't bad in the 60's.. unless you are totaly imersed in the beetles I would not put it on the top of yoru list of movies to see.

But the bigger question is why did you put this in the Volkswagen section???

.

ca_surveyor @ 1251214109

[All Answers]
love the song........

Jackson @ 2009-08-25 00:47:21

It is if there are Volkswagen's in it.....

Bug @ 2009-08-25 06:43:12

It wasn't bad in the 60's.. unless you are totaly imersed in the beetles I would not put it on the top of yoru list of movies to see.

But the bigger question is why did you put this in the Volkswagen section???

.

ca_surveyor @ 2009-08-25 08:28:29

why does my volkswagen bus stall when I push in the brake pedal?

[Subject]
why does my volkswagen bus stall when I push in the brake pedal?
[Question]
I have 1978 Volkswagen Van. It is a fuel injected 2000cc engine that has been rebuilt less than 500 miles ago. Whenever I push in the brake pedal to stop it stalls. I've adjusted the idle already and that helps a little bit. The van idles fine in neutral and seems to drive fine. It's only when I apply any pressure to the brake pedal that the engine loses rpms and shutters and then stalls. Any ideas?

greenthumbed420 @ 2009-08-24 15:51:21

[All Answers]
Because it's 31 years old. Time for an upgrade!!

вавy і nєєd уоu ваd ♥ @ 2009-08-24 15:55:53

If it has power brakes then check the brake power booster. The booster works on engine vacuum and if it has a leaky diaphragm it will sometimes stall the engine out when the brakes are applied.

mustanger @ 2009-08-24 15:57:06

Automatic transmission? The transmission is dragging. Get it checked out. You may have in too much or the wrong type of tranny fluid. If it is a standard shift, then there is a clutch pedal you are suppose to depress and hold down while in gear and coming to a stop.
Otherwise, check all hoses and where they connect to. If you pull off each hose and inspect the hose end and see it is cracked and rock hard(you cannot squeeze it closed with your fingers(it is a rubber hose), then cut off a half inch and reconnect it. Will have a better seal. And that is all you need to do.

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-24 16:36:19

The most likely cause is a vacuum leak in the brake booster itself. When the brake pedal is depressed, the leak is pulling extra air into the engine, which leans out the fuel mixture, and causes it to stall.

the_legend_of_drunken_donkey @ 2009-08-24 17:54:10

[Subject]
information about vw t2 camper vans?
[Question]
if you own one, what are they like to drive, and live with, would you say they would be a good car to drive around everyday like in the week drive it to work and going surfing on the weekends and stuff like that, i know they can be slow, but if you get a new engine would it be better on motorways and stuff. if you have one what state did you buy it in? was it new or old. what have you done to it and what sort of stuff have you got in there like beds Kitchen stuff. i really want one but i need to know about prices of buying it and keeping it running, and if i want to go camping and stuff what things will i need in there like cooking equipment, toilets and beds thanks for your time

DeAdPeNnY @ 2009-08-24 09:07:25

[All Answers]
I want one as well. But i dont think you realise how much they cost.
I live in Europe and Germany will be the cheapest place to get one.
Still, for a decent looking and working T2 you are looking at at least €20.000. the ones that are mainly rust and have literally no engine will still be about €8.000,-
There goes the Hippie / surfers mentality. haha
Unless you are rich or Chip Foose, a T2 is probably not really an option. Plus they dont drive too great, unless you like being slow (very, very slow) its like driving a can with a moped engine.
they are just not really great for every day use.
You could get a new engine put in, but that is really 'not-done', as they are collectors items, so you should keep it original.

I know, its a bummer, because they look great. But have you ever looked at getting a T3? They are still widely available and you can get one that works and looks decent at €5.000 or less. Their engines are more powerfull and efficient, the parts are easy enough to get and affordable, they are safer, have more space and they are allright for daily use.

Ok its not really the proper hippie - surfer camper. But in a few years they are classics as well, And they are pretty cool. And they just make more common sense.

I personally got a bit annoyed with the T2, it is a over valued and really has nothing to do with what they were intended to be. they are more an unaffordable icon, than something you can actually use like a surfer would.
Would you drive your €25.000 campervan on to the beach, leave it behind unsupervised, have a campfire next to it and invite people in it?

Go for the T3, cool (80's) handy and affordable, the way the Transporters were meant to be

Gree @ 2009-08-24 09:31:57

I've owned 4 Buses over 30yrs and 2 camper or Westies, there great and everything you listed help.
My current 1 is a1978 w sunroof 2liter and runs fine,there fun to drive and hard to find in any kind of good condition.
If your planning on buying one that you can turn the key, the $ amount will be approx $8000.00-$15000.00 yes these are right prices.Of course you can find a rusted one and then put in all the thousands of $$ to get it where it's a daily driver.

DR DEAL @ 2009-08-24 14:31:42

I've owned a 1974 camper at one time. Here in California they are still fairly common and for the most part rust free units. It is absolutely true that they are extremely s-l-o-w and have a very difficult time keeping up with modern day traffic. I wrote about this very issue on type II vehicles, (see my answer history) and don't think that they are a good choice of vehicle for an everyday driver.

There have been a number of power train conversions done to a type II to improve the lack of power that these are known for. Some involved using a Corvair motor, I've heard of at least one conversion using a Subaru motor, or most common, modify the engine that you already have. The late model type II, use a 1.7 liter, 1.8 or 2.0 liter motor based upon the type IV. These are usually thought to be the best choices to modify, rather than the beetle motors that were used earlier.

A full camper will have a propane type stove, some will have a ice box, some very late model units might even have an electric refrigerator in them. Fold down seat into a bed and foam mattress for use for people to sleep in the area above by the pop top (when its up).

Safety is a big problem with these vehicles; high wind resistance (hard to keep control of it in a strong cross wind at freeway speeds), the front drum brake models are to be avoided, a weak heater and defroster (though some modifications can help both of these issues), no ABS, no power steering, odd bus like steering wheel position, no front crash protection and fairly poor fuel economy mid teens if your lucky at freeway speeds and stock examples struggle to make 70 mph. (again see an earlier response I gave)

Finally, as everyone else has told you: rust is a large problem in the chasis of these vehicles. Here in California, rust is not as much of an issue as general mechanical condition is. If possible, I'd recommend you borrow or rent one and drive it for a day or two before deciding if this is for you.

Hope this helps, a car nut.

a car nut @ 2009-08-24 15:13:05

I could never afford to buy one ,but have driven several types of air cooled VW, and the normal handling problem was the front end would start to lift and then weave,caused by the lack of a front air dam spoiler under the front bumper, an alternative to the VW t1,t3,t4, cure of a paving slab or a bag of cement in the boot space at the front,this is not a cure for the van only way was to either lower the suspension or fit an air dam spoiler ,the ones i saw were neat looking and good at keeping the van on the straight and narrow,prices are very expensine as T2s are rarer and rare also agood ones very hard to find without extensive rebuilding , a type 3 as was suggested would be better and you can check what equipment is fitted before purchasing.
Cheers And happy hunting either way T2 or T3.

Spiker44 @ 2009-08-24 15:39:13

[Subject]
Anyone know about older vw's?
[Question]
I just bought an 86 cabriolet and while it says to use the special anti-freeze made specifically for v-dub's and Audi's, is that necessary? May I use regular anti-freeze, or should I stick with the good stuff? The car is cherry with only 80,000 original miles.

Jayne Savage @ 2009-08-24 08:13:31

[Best Answer]VW models of your vintage use VW coolant "blue" which is phosphate free coolant. As long as the coolant you use is phosphate free coolant (it will say so on the label), it will be just fine. There some coolants on the market that are phosphate free. The cost difference is about 50% for the VW coolant, but at least you know its the right stuff.

Hope this helps,a car nut.

a car nut @ 1251128328

[All Answers]
usually antifreeze will label if it will work for your make of car check the jug. but if your not sure use the specifics.

300SD @ 2009-08-24 08:17:05

Most modern anti-freeze will be fine in your car. It wasn't the case 20 years ago. Some cars had aluminum blocks and cylinder heads. Others had cast iron. Modern anti-freeze has corosion protection for aluminum as most cars now have aluminum components.

hotdogseeksbun @ 2009-08-24 08:23:07

Regular antifreeze should work just fine.. (and a lot cheaper too!).

ca_surveyor @ 2009-08-24 08:26:56

VW models of your vintage use VW coolant "blue" which is phosphate free coolant. As long as the coolant you use is phosphate free coolant (it will say so on the label), it will be just fine. There some coolants on the market that are phosphate free. The cost difference is about 50% for the VW coolant, but at least you know its the right stuff.

Hope this helps,a car nut.

a car nut @ 2009-08-24 08:38:48

[Subject]
how bad are the old vw's?......?
[Question]
i'm an almost 18 yr old girl and since i was like 12 i've always wanted an old model vw bug. my parents don't mind me getting one i just have to be willing to hold of getting everything done at one time. so my question is has anyone have or had had one and know if they really always break down and all that jazz or is my dad exaggrating. obviously they wont run great, i know, but are they ok for a daily car just going back and forth to a near by college?

ek @ 2009-08-24 17:03:28

[All Answers]
Great cars but everyone I've met who owned one is a car expert, because they've had to fix everything. I heard the engine can be removed in 5 min..

Mark @ 2009-08-24 17:15:26

They were very reliable cars back in the day, and relatively easy to repair; their great fuel mileage was just one feature that made them so popular. However, like any old car, they are prone to severe rusting, particularly in the floor pan ( beneath the seats), and the older they get, the scarcer parts become. The biggest challenge may be finding someone who has been in the business long enough to know how to work on them, and still has the tools to do so. That being said, if your heart is set on it, and you can find one that has been well maintained and/ or well restored for a reasonable price, they can be sensible everyday cars. However, depending on your financial situation, among other factors, a more modern car may be immensely more practical.

Good Hunting

the_legend_of_drunken_donkey @ 2009-08-24 17:43:42

One of the most dependable of their time,IF maintained.
Forget the bug (cute) and go for a Karmin Ghia ( FABULAS)
>>They are rear engined so need less air pressure int the front tires.<<

Dan W @ 2009-08-24 21:38:11

They are absolute not bad. I would be more afraid to buy an american car which is 4 Y old.

Susan @ 2009-08-24 22:25:30

[Subject]
Do VWs tend to last long?
[Question]
Hey im looking to get an 84 VW with 200,000kms on it. Just wondering if it should have quite a bit more life left, also if it does ever break down or something if parts are easy to find/cheap.

The model is an 1984 scirocco karmann MK2

Cat J @ 2009-08-24 17:44:32

[All Answers]
An 84 shitrocket with that many kms is on it's last leg, unless it is immaculate and the current owner has a tons of service records.

I assume you aren't from the U.S. but I can tell you some parts for those cars are tough to come by here in the states but you will probably be able to find all of the maintenance type parts.

SomeGuyRandomWeirdo @ 2009-08-24 19:51:57

200 000 km for a schirocco is just broken in, Take care to the timing belt and change it in the right interval, this is all. You would not need much parts.

Susan @ 2009-08-24 22:23:26

how bad are the old vw's?......?

[Subject]
how bad are the old vw's?......?
[Question]
i'm an almost 18 yr old girl and since i was like 12 i've always wanted an old model vw bug. my parents don't mind me getting one i just have to be willing to hold of getting everything done at one time. so my question is has anyone have or had had one and know if they really always break down and all that jazz or is my dad exaggrating. obviously they wont run great, i know, but are they ok for a daily car just going back and forth to a near by college?

ek @ 2009-08-24 17:03:28

[All Answers]
Great cars but everyone I've met who owned one is a car expert, because they've had to fix everything. I heard the engine can be removed in 5 min..

Mark @ 2009-08-24 17:15:26

They were very reliable cars back in the day, and relatively easy to repair; their great fuel mileage was just one feature that made them so popular. However, like any old car, they are prone to severe rusting, particularly in the floor pan ( beneath the seats), and the older they get, the scarcer parts become. The biggest challenge may be finding someone who has been in the business long enough to know how to work on them, and still has the tools to do so. That being said, if your heart is set on it, and you can find one that has been well maintained and/ or well restored for a reasonable price, they can be sensible everyday cars. However, depending on your financial situation, among other factors, a more modern car may be immensely more practical.

Good Hunting

the_legend_of_drunken_donkey @ 2009-08-24 17:43:42

One of the most dependable of their time,IF maintained.
Forget the bug (cute) and go for a Karmin Ghia ( FABULAS)
>>They are rear engined so need less air pressure int the front tires.<<

Dan W @ 2009-08-24 21:38:11

They are absolute not bad. I would be more afraid to buy an american car which is 4 Y old.

Susan @ 2009-08-24 22:25:30

[Subject]
Anyone know about older vw's?
[Question]
I just bought an 86 cabriolet and while it says to use the special anti-freeze made specifically for v-dub's and Audi's, is that necessary? May I use regular anti-freeze, or should I stick with the good stuff? The car is cherry with only 80,000 original miles.

Jayne Savage @ 2009-08-24 08:13:31

[Best Answer]VW models of your vintage use VW coolant "blue" which is phosphate free coolant. As long as the coolant you use is phosphate free coolant (it will say so on the label), it will be just fine. There some coolants on the market that are phosphate free. The cost difference is about 50% for the VW coolant, but at least you know its the right stuff.

Hope this helps,a car nut.

a car nut @ 1251128328

[All Answers]
usually antifreeze will label if it will work for your make of car check the jug. but if your not sure use the specifics.

300SD @ 2009-08-24 08:17:05

Most modern anti-freeze will be fine in your car. It wasn't the case 20 years ago. Some cars had aluminum blocks and cylinder heads. Others had cast iron. Modern anti-freeze has corosion protection for aluminum as most cars now have aluminum components.

hotdogseeksbun @ 2009-08-24 08:23:07

Regular antifreeze should work just fine.. (and a lot cheaper too!).

ca_surveyor @ 2009-08-24 08:26:56

VW models of your vintage use VW coolant "blue" which is phosphate free coolant. As long as the coolant you use is phosphate free coolant (it will say so on the label), it will be just fine. There some coolants on the market that are phosphate free. The cost difference is about 50% for the VW coolant, but at least you know its the right stuff.

Hope this helps,a car nut.

a car nut @ 2009-08-24 08:38:48

[Subject]
why does my volkswagen bus stall when I push in the brake pedal?
[Question]
I have 1978 Volkswagen Van. It is a fuel injected 2000cc engine that has been rebuilt less than 500 miles ago. Whenever I push in the brake pedal to stop it stalls. I've adjusted the idle already and that helps a little bit. The van idles fine in neutral and seems to drive fine. It's only when I apply any pressure to the brake pedal that the engine loses rpms and shutters and then stalls. Any ideas?

greenthumbed420 @ 2009-08-24 15:51:21

[All Answers]
Because it's 31 years old. Time for an upgrade!!

вавy і nєєd уоu ваd ♥ @ 2009-08-24 15:55:53

If it has power brakes then check the brake power booster. The booster works on engine vacuum and if it has a leaky diaphragm it will sometimes stall the engine out when the brakes are applied.

mustanger @ 2009-08-24 15:57:06

Automatic transmission? The transmission is dragging. Get it checked out. You may have in too much or the wrong type of tranny fluid. If it is a standard shift, then there is a clutch pedal you are suppose to depress and hold down while in gear and coming to a stop.
Otherwise, check all hoses and where they connect to. If you pull off each hose and inspect the hose end and see it is cracked and rock hard(you cannot squeeze it closed with your fingers(it is a rubber hose), then cut off a half inch and reconnect it. Will have a better seal. And that is all you need to do.

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-24 16:36:19

The most likely cause is a vacuum leak in the brake booster itself. When the brake pedal is depressed, the leak is pulling extra air into the engine, which leans out the fuel mixture, and causes it to stall.

the_legend_of_drunken_donkey @ 2009-08-24 17:54:10

[Subject]
information about vw t2 camper vans?
[Question]
if you own one, what are they like to drive, and live with, would you say they would be a good car to drive around everyday like in the week drive it to work and going surfing on the weekends and stuff like that, i know they can be slow, but if you get a new engine would it be better on motorways and stuff. if you have one what state did you buy it in? was it new or old. what have you done to it and what sort of stuff have you got in there like beds Kitchen stuff. i really want one but i need to know about prices of buying it and keeping it running, and if i want to go camping and stuff what things will i need in there like cooking equipment, toilets and beds thanks for your time

DeAdPeNnY @ 2009-08-24 09:07:25

[All Answers]
I want one as well. But i dont think you realise how much they cost.
I live in Europe and Germany will be the cheapest place to get one.
Still, for a decent looking and working T2 you are looking at at least €20.000. the ones that are mainly rust and have literally no engine will still be about €8.000,-
There goes the Hippie / surfers mentality. haha
Unless you are rich or Chip Foose, a T2 is probably not really an option. Plus they dont drive too great, unless you like being slow (very, very slow) its like driving a can with a moped engine.
they are just not really great for every day use.
You could get a new engine put in, but that is really 'not-done', as they are collectors items, so you should keep it original.

I know, its a bummer, because they look great. But have you ever looked at getting a T3? They are still widely available and you can get one that works and looks decent at €5.000 or less. Their engines are more powerfull and efficient, the parts are easy enough to get and affordable, they are safer, have more space and they are allright for daily use.

Ok its not really the proper hippie - surfer camper. But in a few years they are classics as well, And they are pretty cool. And they just make more common sense.

I personally got a bit annoyed with the T2, it is a over valued and really has nothing to do with what they were intended to be. they are more an unaffordable icon, than something you can actually use like a surfer would.
Would you drive your €25.000 campervan on to the beach, leave it behind unsupervised, have a campfire n

how bad are the old vw's?......?

[Subject]
how bad are the old vw's?......?
[Question]
i'm an almost 18 yr old girl and since i was like 12 i've always wanted an old model vw bug. my parents don't mind me getting one i just have to be willing to hold of getting everything done at one time. so my question is has anyone have or had had one and know if they really always break down and all that jazz or is my dad exaggrating. obviously they wont run great, i know, but are they ok for a daily car just going back and forth to a near by college?

ek @ 2009-08-24 17:03:28

[All Answers]
Great cars but everyone I've met who owned one is a car expert, because they've had to fix everything. I heard the engine can be removed in 5 min..

Mark @ 2009-08-24 17:15:26

They were very reliable cars back in the day, and relatively easy to repair; their great fuel mileage was just one feature that made them so popular. However, like any old car, they are prone to severe rusting, particularly in the floor pan ( beneath the seats), and the older they get, the scarcer parts become. The biggest challenge may be finding someone who has been in the business long enough to know how to work on them, and still has the tools to do so. That being said, if your heart is set on it, and you can find one that has been well maintained and/ or well restored for a reasonable price, they can be sensible everyday cars. However, depending on your financial situation, among other factors, a more modern car may be immensely more practical.

Good Hunting

the_legend_of_drunken_donkey @ 2009-08-24 17:43:42

One of the most dependable of their time,IF maintained.
Forget the bug (cute) and go for a Karmin Ghia ( FABULAS)
>>They are rear engined so need less air pressure int the front tires.<<

Dan W @ 2009-08-24 21:38:11

They are absolute not bad. I would be more afraid to buy an american car which is 4 Y old.

Susan @ 2009-08-24 22:25:30

[Subject]
Anyone know about older vw's?
[Question]
I just bought an 86 cabriolet and while it says to use the special anti-freeze made specifically for v-dub's and Audi's, is that necessary? May I use regular anti-freeze, or should I stick with the good stuff? The car is cherry with only 80,000 original miles.

Jayne Savage @ 2009-08-24 08:13:31

[Best Answer]VW models of your vintage use VW coolant "blue" which is phosphate free coolant. As long as the coolant you use is phosphate free coolant (it will say so on the label), it will be just fine. There some coolants on the market that are phosphate free. The cost difference is about 50% for the VW coolant, but at least you know its the right stuff.

Hope this helps,a car nut.

a car nut @ 1251128328

[All Answers]
usually antifreeze will label if it will work for your make of car check the jug. but if your not sure use the specifics.

300SD @ 2009-08-24 08:17:05

Most modern anti-freeze will be fine in your car. It wasn't the case 20 years ago. Some cars had aluminum blocks and cylinder heads. Others had cast iron. Modern anti-freeze has corosion protection for aluminum as most cars now have aluminum components.

hotdogseeksbun @ 2009-08-24 08:23:07

Regular antifreeze should work just fine.. (and a lot cheaper too!).

ca_surveyor @ 2009-08-24 08:26:56

VW models of your vintage use VW coolant "blue" which is phosphate free coolant. As long as the coolant you use is phosphate free coolant (it will say so on the label), it will be just fine. There some coolants on the market that are phosphate free. The cost difference is about 50% for the VW coolant, but at least you know its the right stuff.

Hope this helps,a car nut.

a car nut @ 2009-08-24 08:38:48

[Subject]
why does my volkswagen bus stall when I push in the brake pedal?
[Question]
I have 1978 Volkswagen Van. It is a fuel injected 2000cc engine that has been rebuilt less than 500 miles ago. Whenever I push in the brake pedal to stop it stalls. I've adjusted the idle already and that helps a little bit. The van idles fine in neutral and seems to drive fine. It's only when I apply any pressure to the brake pedal that the engine loses rpms and shutters and then stalls. Any ideas?

greenthumbed420 @ 2009-08-24 15:51:21

[All Answers]
Because it's 31 years old. Time for an upgrade!!

вавy і nєєd уоu ваd ♥ @ 2009-08-24 15:55:53

If it has power brakes then check the brake power booster. The booster works on engine vacuum and if it has a leaky diaphragm it will sometimes stall the engine out when the brakes are applied.

mustanger @ 2009-08-24 15:57:06

Automatic transmission? The transmission is dragging. Get it checked out. You may have in too much or the wrong type of tranny fluid. If it is a standard shift, then there is a clutch pedal you are suppose to depress and hold down while in gear and coming to a stop.
Otherwise, check all hoses and where they connect to. If you pull off each hose and inspect the hose end and see it is cracked and rock hard(you cannot squeeze it closed with your fingers(it is a rubber hose), then cut off a half inch and reconnect it. Will have a better seal. And that is all you need to do.

Lam Sanders @ 2009-08-24 16:36:19

The most likely cause is a vacuum leak in the brake booster itself. When the brake pedal is depressed, the leak is pulling extra air into the engine, which leans out the fuel mixture, and causes it to stall.

the_legend_of_drunken_donkey @ 2009-08-24 17:54:10

[Subject]
information about vw t2 camper vans?
[Question]
if you own one, what are they like to drive, and live with, would you say they would be a good car to drive around everyday like in the week drive it to work and going surfing on the weekends and stuff like that, i know they can be slow, but if you get a new engine would it be better on motorways and stuff. if you have one what state did you buy it in? was it new or old. what have you done to it and what sort of stuff have you got in there like beds Kitchen stuff. i really want one but i need to know about prices of buying it and keeping it running, and if i want to go camping and stuff what things will i need in there like cooking equipment, toilets and beds thanks for your time

DeAdPeNnY @ 2009-08-24 09:07:25

[All Answers]
I want one as well. But i dont think you realise how much they cost.
I live in Europe and Germany will be the cheapest place to get one.
Still, for a decent looking and working T2 you are looking at at least €20.000. the ones that are mainly rust and have literally no engine will still be about €8.000,-
There goes the Hippie / surfers mentality. haha
Unless you are rich or Chip Foose, a T2 is probably not really an option. Plus they dont drive too great, unless you like being slow (very, very slow) its like driving a can with a moped engine.
they are just not really great for every day use.
You could get a new engine put in, but that is really 'not-done', as they are collectors items, so you should keep it original.

I know, its a bummer, because they look great. But have you ever looked at getting a T3? They are still widely available and you can get one that works and looks decent at €5.000 or less. Their engines are more powerfull and efficient, the parts are easy enough to get and affordable, they are safer, have more space and they are allright for daily use.

Ok its not really the proper hippie - surfer camper. But in a few years they are classics as well, And they are pretty cool. And they just make more common sense.

I personally got a bit annoyed with the T2, it is a over valued and really has nothing to do with what they were intended to be. they are more an unaffordable icon, than something you can actually use like a surfer would.
Would you drive your €25.000 campervan on to the beach, leave it behind unsupervised, have a campfire next to it and invite people in it?

Go for the T3, cool (80's) handy and affordable, the way the Transporters were meant to be

Gree @ 2009-08-24 09:31:57

I've owned 4 Buses over 30yrs and 2 camper or Westies, there great and everything you listed help.
My current 1 is a1978 w sunroof 2liter and runs fine,there fun to drive and hard to find in any kind of good condition.
If your planning on buying one that you can turn the key, the $ amount will be approx $8000.00-$15000.00 yes these are right prices.Of course you can find a rusted one and then put in all the thousands of $$ to get it where it's a daily driver.

DR DEAL @ 2009-08-24 14:31:42

I've owned a 1974 camper at one time. Here in California they are still fairly common and for the most part rust free units. It is absolutely true that they are extremely s-l-o-w and have a very difficult time keeping up with modern day traffic. I wrote about this very issue on type II vehicles, (see my answer history) and don't think that they are a good choice of vehicle for an everyday driver.

There have been a number of power train conversions done to a type II to improve the lack of power that these are known for. Some involved using a Corvair motor, I've heard of at least one conversion using a Subaru motor, or most common, modify the engine that you already have. The late model type II, use a 1.7 liter, 1.8 or 2.0 liter motor based upon the type IV. These are usually thought to be the best choices to modify, rather than the beetle motors that were used earlier.

A full camper will have a propane type stove, some will have a ice box, some very late model units might even have an electric refrigerator in them. Fold down seat into a bed and foam mattress for use for people to sleep in the area above by the pop top (when its up).

Safety is a big problem with these vehicles; high wind resistance (hard to keep control of it in a strong cross wind at freeway speeds), the front drum brake models are to be avoided, a weak heater and defroster (though some modifications can help both of these issues), no ABS, no power steering, odd bus like steering wheel position, no front crash protection and fairly poor fuel economy mid teens if your lucky at freeway speeds and stock examples struggle to make 70 mph. (again see an earlier response I gave)

Finally, as everyone else has told you: rust is a large problem in the chasis of these vehicles. Here in California, rust is not as much of an issue as general mechanical condition is. If possible, I'd recommend you borrow or rent one and drive it for a day or two before deciding if this is for you.

Hope this helps, a car nut.

a car nut @ 2009-08-24 15:13:05

I could never afford to buy one ,but have driven several types of air cooled VW, and the normal handling problem was the front end would start to lift and then weave,caused by the lack of a front air dam spoiler under the front bumper, an alternative to the VW t1,t3,t4, cure of a paving slab or a bag of cement in the boot space at the front,this is not a cure for the van only way was to either lower the suspension or fit an air dam spoiler ,the ones i saw were neat looking and good at keeping the van on the straight and narrow,prices are very expensine as T2s are rarer and rare also agood ones very hard to find without extensive rebuilding , a type 3 as was suggested would be better and you can check what equipment is fitted before purchasing.
Cheers And happy hunting either way T2 or T3.

Spiker44 @ 2009-08-24 15:39:13

[Subject]
2006 VW Passat - I changed Battery now radio doesn't work. I have radio code, please help!?
[Question]
Please let me know what is necessary to get my radio working again. I hav ethe radio code but it's not responsive at all to enter the code.
I already have the code, I simply don't have any way to input code. Thanks.

Michael B @ 2009-08-24 09:29:22

[All Answers]
The radio code should be in the owners manual that came with the car in the glove box. The other way is to pull the radio out and get the serial numbers off it and call the dealer. OR you can take the car to them and they will do it. I had a friend at the dealer thats how I got my codes to mine when I replaced the battery. I dunno if they will for sure give it to you over the phone. But its not the end of the world

jeffreyt @ 2009-08-24 09:36:21

if you have the a/m f/m stereo with cd then you set the codes with the radio pre-set buttons and then push the up arrow on the search button.

if youhave nav and/or satt then you use the pre-sets and push the ok button.

the pre-sets going lt to rt, the first # in your code is the first pre-set and so on and so on.

if you mess up 3 times then the radio goes into SAFE MODE and you must leave the ignition on and radio for 1 hour before you get 3 more attempts

good luck

IKE @ 2009-08-24 14:18:30

whats wrong with my VW jetta?

whats wrong with my VW jetta?

its a 2001 VW JETTA its been burning off a lot of oil whats wrong with it? if u need to know more just ask and ill post more, thank you very much

Asked by: TECHone @ 2009-08-12 02:05:11

Answers ::
you havent provided too much detail but theres always the possibility its leaking. have you checked underneath it for oil stains? i have also heard that volkswagens burn oil faster than some other cars. not sure if thats true though.

hollisterdude

its a volkswagen!

Moochalot!

i had the same problem recently with my car. the most likely reason i can think of is a hose leak. it took me forever to find the hose that was leaking in my car, but eventually i found it and replaced it. if i were you, i would definitely just take it to a mechanic. its alot easier that way

Joachimesus

Worn out engine. See a mechanic or engine overhaul shop for cost of repair. Or it is overfilled in the crankcase. Or PCV valve is broken(plastic or metal ). Let a mechanic have a quick look. Don't need to see a dealership after all a motor is a motor.
You did not mention the number of miles on the car(but chances are the odometer does not work anyways(a gear falls off)

R U listening 2 me?

I have a 2000 vw jetta stock what is the biggest rim and tire set i can fit on it without rubbing?

thats pretty much it

Asked by: Rey @ 2009-08-12 01:01:31

Answers ::
20's with 7.5inch wide tires....8inches will rub. 22's fit too but will hit upper fender well when going over speed bumps

Eric S

I wouldn't go bigger than 18

justadub

I'd say 19s may look a little too big on a jetta, but I've seen it pulled off with the right wheels/stance. 18s are the perfect size, honestly you don't want to go too much bigger.

Blake

What is an exclaimation mark with a circle around it and wavy lines under it mean on a VW Jetta?

I am sitting here at a damn McDonalds and cannot find the owners manuel online. Yes, I'm a big idiot because the manuel accidently got taken out of the car. Need to drive 80 miles in the dessert right now and value my life.

Asked by: newwave74 @ 2009-08-11 23:41:21

Answers ::
it's something to do with the brakes. it could just be telling you that the brake pads are getting worn but it could be something more serious.

eek

emergency break is on , or it is the switch that shows it is on gone

jim m

Parking brake is on. Or is not hitting the off switch. Most often it misses the button. Push the handle toward the passenger side of the car as you let it down and most likely that 1/16 of an inch will hit the button.
You gonna drive into the dessert? Would that be a super sizedchocolate creme strawberry field pie? Must be a big one if you got to use the car.

R U listening 2 me?

VW Passat (2006) 2.0 TDi cost for new pads, tyres & MOT?

I've been charged £440 by a VW main dealer for the following:

Front brake pads (£140)
Two front tyres (£245)
MOT (£55)

2006 VW Passat 2.0 TDi (manual)

Is this a good price?

Asked by: Sumomo @ 2009-08-11 04:57:20

Answers ::
That sounds fairly reasonable to me for a main dealer.

Robin the Electrocuted

that is very expensive,tyres £123 each and pads£40 plus £100 to fit them it takes less then an hour,

J R

Shop around next time and you will save a fortune. You don't have to have the work done at the main dealer either.

I am not a number

Best, inexpensive VW chip to increase HP?

hey not looking at spending over 100 bucks, in the market for a chip to give my 99 golf vr6 (mk3 model) a little more horsepower, something i can install myself, any ideas or links.. thanks!

Asked by: noitall @ 2009-08-11 15:54:35

Answers ::
neuspeed offers a good chip for the VR6, I would check blackforestindustries.com as they sell a Techtonics Tuning chip for the vr as well, or just google techtonics tuning and check out the chips they offer. I believe the mk3 chips are just a solder in or push in type for the mk3, just like my b4 passat vr6. I have the neuspeed chip, and it claims to add 7hp and a bit of torque, I can deff. tell the difference in the way it performs over stock. Hope this helps!

Sarah

Techtonics or GIAC Black Forrest industries is offering a new chip that gets amazing reviews.

justadub

wtf? dude y did owen diserve 2 get voted off yes he lost the chalenge for the killer grips but courtney wuz not aloud 2 be voted off cuz of her fucking lourers so fuck u dick weed

phill22097

License for VW Bus/Vanagon?

Now this might seem stupid but i know nothing about license's.
Do you need to have a special license to drive a VW bus/ Vanagon since it is a bigger vehicle and the inside of most of them are just like an RV?

Asked by: Rhealyn @ 2009-08-11 08:57:36

Answers ::
No, it's not that big. A standard C-class motor vehicle license will do. I got a Vanagon myself.

Wendy

Depends on where you are and what your laws are.

In California you do not need one unless your vehicle is outfitted to carry more then 9 people (unrelated). Then you need a bus drivers certificate added to your license. Packing 30 people into your VW does not make it a bus if it only seats 8

ca_surveyor

Not at all. A good old license will do. You can drive up to a 26' box truck with a standard license. It might be 24', can't remember, but that is much bigger than a transporter.

Prime

Think I have put too much oil in my Golf 2.0 TDI?

The dipstick was unclear so I put a small amount in. It now seems above the level it should be, but not by much. The car is running fine, should this be a problem???????

Asked by: the pipe @ 2009-08-12 02:41:42

Answers ::
nOOOOOO dot put lots of oil just a little a very little amount.

ツcArLツ

it can be if you acheive more oil pressure than the seals or rings can take. a little too much isn't a big deal, but if you see a blue-ish smoke from your exhaust, you're burning oil, forcing it thru the piston rings and this willdamage them eventually. you would want to drain a little bit of it...
also, if it blows any of the seals, you'll have a leak you need to repair or forever be replacing oil w/ each gas fill.

ez80227

I am unclear with your statement. You were questioning the dipstick because it was unclear to you, so you added more oil and then your knowledge banks opened up and it became clear to you? Wonderous chemical.
Now you have a question is this a problem. Why don't you add some more of the wonderous chemical to see if you are further enlightened?

R U listening 2 me?