Whats the "safe code" to get my VW stereo to work?

Question 1
Whats the "safe code" to get my VW stereo to work?...  I bought my 2006 VW Passat 2.0T in 2006 with its origional stock 6 CD changer Stereo in it. About a month after I bought a new Pioneer Navigation System GPS and had it installed and saved the stock stereo incase I wanted to sell it or put it back in later. Well my sister's dad is as blind as a bat and wanted to put himself to use and clear all the "junk" out of the garage, and threw out my pretty much brand new stereo. Now, I plan on re-selling my car and getting something else, I bought a stock stereo from someone who actually put a nav just like mine in his 2005 VW Golf I think it was. But now that Ive taken my car to replace with that VW stereo, it needs a code to have it work.

Does anyone know this "safe code", or what I can do to get it so it works in my 2006 Passat?

Answers
1)   Why would there be a "safe code", then there would be no point to having a unique code for each radio. - doane_nut

2)   The code is set to something different on each radio installed, so there is no way anyone can tell you what it is. Your original one could be looked up either in the owner's manual or in the dealer's records, but you have a different one now anyway.

However, there is a solution. The code can easily be reset to something different. Anyone selling that brand of radio can do it. And VW is not the best place to do that. If the radio is Blaupunkt for example, then a radio installer who sells Blaupunkt would be the one to do to. VW does not make their own radios. - Motorhead

3)   What you need to do, is go down to the VW dealer, and have them run a VAG-COM on it. It's going to cost some bills, but that is the only way. Didn't the seller of the stock stereo give you the code? - djaca70

4)   Mm...Here you are. http://liwu.info/61045/cd-changers - Mary Campos


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Question 2
VW 1600 MOTOR ISSUES?...  My buggy has a VW 1600 engine and it does not run smooth. I have a rebuilt carb, new spark plugs, wires,new distributer, new fuel filters, new fuel lines, adjusted the valves, checked the timing, completely re-wired everything....and this motor still runs horrible. I have to push the throttle all the way to get into first gear, then 2nd gear pops and crackels, and I havent gotten beyond that. The Carb has been adjusted and for some reason it feels like it is starved of fuel. We checked the fuel lines and there is pressure and the fuel pump works great. After all this work, we cant figure out why it runs horrible. Any Suggestions?
The firing order is correct. We checked the many times just in case. The Carb was rebuilt by a friend. We checked for vaccum leaks and there were none. I have not tried the fuel pressure test, so I will check that out. Any other suggestions? Why would 2nd gear pop and crackle so much when 1st gear doesnt?
The distributor is a BOSCH with adjustable advance/mechanical weights. Its Solex carb 34 pic -3. The engine is a 1978 or 79. We adjusted the timing and it advances 8 degrees. We were told that is good.

Answers
1)   Make sure the wiring on the coil (the little ones) are not reversed. Check engine vacuum to see if it is normal and actually measure the fuel pressure with a gas to see what it reads. Who rebuilt the carb and are you sure that it is really functioning as it should?

A clue a clue!!! Second gear popping and crackling at a higher rpm might indicate that the timing is advancing too far too fast or maybe not at all. Is this an aftermarket distributor with an adjustable advance/mechanical weights or vacuum can? If its a canister undo the vacuum line to the distributor and plug it and see what happens when you drive it. If it gets better check your advance curve or for something wrong with the distributor if nothing changes make sure that that line is actually pulling enough vacuum to move the advance mechanism in the distributor.

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You may have identified the problem and 6-8 would be good for the mechnical advance but the total timing needs to be around 28-32 adjusting up or down for a balance between performance and engine ping. Check out the below procedure for an 009 distributor and make adjustments if/as needed and let us know how it turns out.

Rob's 009 Timing Procedure
First, set the maximum advance with a timing light -- engine speed at least 3000 rpm (see the Strobe Timing Procedure). Try 30 degrees at 3000 rpm first, and let the idle timing fall where it may.

Note: Maximum advance is much more important than idle advance. For the aircooled VW engine and 009 distributor, the maximum advance MUST be between 28 and 32 degrees at 3000+ rpm. The 009 distributor is usually set at 3000+ rpm because it produces its maximum advance at 2600-2700rpm. Setting the maximum advance timing at 3000+ rpm ensures that it's "all in." If the engine pings/detonates at 32 degrees, then use 30 degrees or even 28. Never less than 28 degrees or the engine will be grossly under-advanced at high rpms.

If the maximum advance timing is set at less than 28 degrees, it will be under-advanced at high rpm and result in overheating. Overheating certainly puts an extra load on the head and it's components, especially the already very hot exhaust valves.

Once the maximum advance has been set, you can turn the engine off and determine the STATIC timing (see the Static Timing Procedure) and use THAT setting for statically timing THAT distributor in the future. The static timing using this method is commonly between about 5 and 10 degrees BTDC, but I have seen reports of up to 16 degrees BTDC, since these distributors DO vary in the total advance they can make.

Run the vehicle, and try some high speed and lower speed high acceleration runs. If it runs fine, you've got it right. If it pings a bit, or has a flat spot on acceleration, try backing off the maximum advance to say 28 degrees, and try again.

So the bottom line for 009 distributor timing is that maximum advance timing is much more important than idle timing. The spec 7.5 degrees BTDC MIGHT be right for some 009 distributors, but not necessarily for all. We have heard of 009 people with a maximum advance of 26 degrees; that would indicate that THAT 009 distributor should be set at around 10-12 degrees BTDC at idle so the maximum advance will be in the 28-32 degree range - SlightlyDusty

2)   make sure your plug wire's are in the right firing order - bill

3)   Have you checked the compression? That will tell you kind of shape the engine is in.
What kind of carb, stock, if it is, throw another on it see if there is any difference. Make sure the hot wire goes to the + side of the coil, Negative goes to distributor
If stock distributor, make sue the retard isnt hooked up
It could be a lot of things, but as long as the valves are good, the carb sounds like the culprit
Make sure the lil electric gas shutoff below the carb isnt screwing up, I usually just take it out, clip off the end that goes into the intake, and screw it back in the hole. Also look down in the throttle body make sure the accelerator pump is squirting right into the hole as you pump the throttlel - onlyoldiron4me

4)   It is not likely fuel pressure because it does not take much to run smoothly in second.
More likely it is something like a bad condenser. But there are so many things it is hard to say.
But you need to be more specific, such as what years, type of distributor, type of carb, etc.
If it is a 70 - 75 distributor, it has 2 vacuum lines to it, and has to be dynamically timed, or statically timed at 17 degrees before TDC.
The idle jet should click when you unplug it.
The choke must have a good vacuum unloader diaphragm and heater, or else if could close up on you.
A bad leaking vacuum advance diaphragm could also cause this problem, and you can test for leakage by sucking on it, or seeing a lack of 32 degrees advance with a timing light, (you get about 16 degrees from vacuum advance, and 16 from centrifugal).
A centrifugal advance spring missing will also cause timing to bounce all over the place. - Motorhead


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Question 3
Should i buy this jetta? pleople who know vw?...  Its a 2001 jetta 4cyl automatic, its fully loaded and strictly maintaned, it is in the best condition I've ever seen as far as body and interior go. Leather, heated seats. Alarm and automatic windows, it recently had the timing belt replaced professionally and its sounding great.. one owner w all paperwork for ownership and maintenance... buut the kicker is that it has 187k miles on it... I can get it for 2000, and its from a friend of my mothers that I know takes excellent care of her cars... but im asking someone who knows vw's or jettas themselves, and any knowledge about the 2001 model. Is this with it? How much longer does the car have? I only put like 8000 a year on my cars so is this worth buying or am I going to have major issues right away?

Answers
1)   Sounds good, and I hope that was the second timing belt service, because the interval is every 65-70K miles. That service should have had the rollers, tensioner, coolant (G12), water pump, and thermostat with it. To be on the safe side, have it looked at by a VW tech. - djaca70

2)   If you only drive 8,000 miles a year, you should be fine for a while. VW's really do last a while, and even if it has 200k miles, 2000 bucks is a pretty fair price for a vw. Good gas mileage too. - Trey

3)   A properly maintained car can run basically forever.
The problem with some cars is that they maintenance has been deferred so it costs more to catch up, then the car is worth.
But this sounds like a good deal.
I would suggest finding an independent mechanic rather than a dealership, since they work harder to satisfy your long term requirements. - Motorhead

4)   Sounds like a steal. Go for it, beautiful car. But like the other guy said it may be due for another timing belt water pump service. Factor this into the cost because some shops charge $1000 for this service. The only real weak spots I can tell you about for this car are the transmission (below average life expectancy) and a high maintenence ignition system (notorious for ignition control module/ coil failer). Don't let this discourage you. It sounds like a really great deal. - TURTLELY ENOUGH


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Question 4
My 69 volkswagen gear for stuck?...  MY dad was driving, and he was reversing and the gear got stuck in R. Than we opened the screws, took the gear out, and he says the thing with the gear where the gear fits in came up. And the little pins are lost too. What do i do, and where might have the pins fallen?

Answers
1)   Into your bag of weed. - doane_nut

2)   New Tranny! Haha, but most likely if you have little problems like that I'd just get a new one at the junkyard, it's a common problem with VW's. - Zack

3)   The "automatic stickshift", in a 69 Beetle, is actually just a 3 speed manual transmission with the vacuum operated automatic clutch.
You should probably not have opened up the shifter cover plate in order to fix it.
It was most likely a problem with the clutch servo leaking, or was a mismatch of the non-syncho reverse gear. The solution would have been to try turning the engine off to shift, and to try rocking the car slightly.

But to fix the shifter, there is only one pin on the front of the shifter, and its purpose is just to prevent the stick from rotating. The pin is inexpensive, and any dune buggy shop will have them. However, it would have fallen into the tunnel, and can be retrieved with a magnet. There are small access plates at both ends of the car. One is in front under the gas tank, and points forward, held on by 2 bolts, side by side. The other access plate is held by one screw, and is under the rear seat.
Don't call the shift selector stick a gear, because that will really confuse people.
And be very careful with it, because if this really is an automatic stickshift, there is a clutch switch contact with a wire to it, that goes into the base of the stick. It has to be adjusted. And the wire has to be treated carefully.

The link shows an image of the standard bug shifter. The single pin in the front is the same, and I believe it goes through a hole and is peened on the other side to hold it in. But you could use the pin from a standard shifter. You can't use the whole shifter because the automatic stick shift has a switch in it, near the base. - Motorhead


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Question 5
What does this icon on my Volkswagen dashboard mean? (pic included)?...  http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/img0078kc.jpg/

Answers
1)   It means your windshield washer reservoir needs to be filled. - Mr. Smartypants

2)   You need to refill your windshield washer fluid, look under the hood, small, blue, circular lid, should have the same logo on it.
go to autozone and get yourself some fluid and fill that baby up! =) - BZK


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