What about Forex Fap Turbo?

Question 1
What about Forex Fap Turbo?...  I am a Forex Trader and thinking of purchasing the Fap Turbo Forex System. I have heard that some knowledge is needed, but it is a highly praised system and I have read great reviews about it, even on this site. I'd like to learn more. Can anyone offer any helpful information about it, or relating to it?

Answers
1)   Fap Turbo Insider: http://ou.gd/2F

Fap Turno Expert Guide:
http://ou.gd/2G

Fap Turbo:
http://ou.gd/2H - kingrich316

2)   Hi there. This is a great question because I am sure many people are wondering the same thing.

I have spent a lot of time researching forex robots and in my opinion Fap Turbo is the best robot you can buy. Some knowledge is suggested because you will be able to alter your settings to optimize trading through Fap Turbo.

Basically Fap Turbo is a forex tool. It helps you automate trading and should be used as a tool. It will not make money for you! If you don't want to get into forex do not buy it. But if you are a trader it is a great tool to have in your bag.

So yes it is good and the best part is you can make it better by optimizing your settings.

If there is anything else I can do to help you out drop me a line.

Also, I found a review online of someone who is in the same situation as you. You should check it out... - Charles

3)   Think again about buying a forex robot / expert advisor.
Banks and institutions have all the money to invest into these, but they use dealers/traders , chief dealers etc. Why?
Clearly, to be profitable in forex trading, It still needs the human touch.

And if those robots are earning big bucks for people, will them be selling such item to the mass public?

Asia Forex Mentor
Ezekiel - Ezekiel

4)   Demo before you trade. You should learn well before you put your money on it.

Good luck. - Shiv

5)   There are a lot of free robots out there as well but if you check out reviews and like what you see then try it. - Jason


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Question 2
What does this symbol represent on the dashboard of my VW Jetta?...  http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j200/doc_09/tn.jpg

Answers
1)   I really cannot tell because the picture is to fuzzy but it dose not look that important if it dose not shut off in 500 or so miles take it to a mecanic (some times manufactures program the lights to come on at so manny miles so you will get it fixed when it dosenot need to be) but if it shuts off after 500 or so miles dont worry if it dose not take it no a mecanic! - Bob

2)   im not sure. but look in the owners manual and it will be there

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AglOOuEwa2LSjpbfgDh3Ibvsy6IX;_ylv=3?qid=20100504130356AAsPFNF - :

3)   It isn't that clear but it might be the bulb failure indicator. Check all your road lights - include the number plate, full and dip beam headlights and fogs if fitted ( front and rear ) - KEN F

4)   It is a "light of sorts". I am not certain but could be for a diesel glow plug (if the car is diesel). Being that it is on the speedometer it has some significance.

It may be a bulb failure indicator.

Perhaps an indication you are driving a Beetle type product?

It is just something to "bug you"

Ask at a VW repair shop or a dealership. The salesmen or parts department or service manager can tell you (just a quick sketch on a piece of paper and show it to them.) - I taut I saw a puddy kat


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Question 3
Should I buy a '90 VW Cabriolet?...  I found a 1990 VW Cabriolet on eBay motors that I'm considering buying. It has about 80k miles on it and seems to be in good condition just from the sales ad; the seller did say that the convertible top needs replacing and the A/C needs recharging. I'm hoping the car would last another 10 years or so if I bought it (assuming I take good care of it), but I'm really clueless when it comes to cars and I don't even know if that's reasonable to expect. The seller is asking around $1500.

Answers
1)   Now, I'm on the West Coast of California in the San Franciscco Bay Area where labour costs are among the highest in the nation; hopefully where you are it's less (labour rates per hour run from 100 to 140 per hour at dealerships in the area where I'm at). Convertible tops run in various grades; the original material (the German Happisch type) is expensive and runs about $1200 installed out here, canvas and especially the vinyl (the least expensive to do, but the least durable) are less expensive.

The A/C charge can get expensive; the old freon R12 gas is no longer in production in many countries and runs anywhere from $50 per lb and up, and to get the best performance out of your a/c system you need to run the original gas. You can convert your a/c system to run on r134a (the new gas) instead of R12, but even that isn't that cheap to do. In addition, since the system wasn't originally designed for R134a gas, the a/c doesn't cool as well. I haven't had experience with a conversion to the new gas on a VW, but other vehicles that were converted, most people weren't happy with the cooling of a/c after the conversion. Expect to spend from $300 up to convert to the new gas and more depending upon what else is wrong with your a/c system.

Now, I don't know what a 1990 VW cabriolet is worth; you can look up the kelly blue book or edmunds.com to get some idea of what the car is worth to determine the cash value of the unit.
Deduct for repairs needed, You need to have a service history on the car as well to insure things like the timing belt, water pump and other items were replaced within the last 5-6 years or so, otherwise you'll also need to replace those items as well due to time and/or milage issues.

a 1990 VW Cabriolet is not a bad car; first year with a drivers side air bag, so it has an added safety feature that earlier models didn't have, but it doesn't have ABS brakes or passenger side air bag... Have the car checked out either by a dealership or a independent VW specialist, before buying it. Reject the car if it needs too much work; the mechanic can advise you on this. Best of luck in your hunt, hope this helps, a car nut. - a car nut

2)   You should also consider that such a car may be expensive to insure. Check your insurance rates before buying one, for example here - carquotes.fateback.com - Victor

3)   That is very cheap.
So cheap that I suspect a scam.
Make sure you don't wire any money or anything remote.
Go to the actual car, take it to a reliable mechanic, and then pay cash on the spot.

Don't worry about the AC. They all need charging every 3 years or so. And is less then $100.
The cloth top is also to be expected, but is not cheap. Could be $1000. Some custom shops can make one cheap.

But only 80k miles is unbelieveable.
A 20 year old car should have 240k miles.
I have an 88 with 320k miles on it, and it still has the original engine, with only the head done. Bottom end is still totally original. Never had any real problem with it.

The convertabler is a real keeper. They made very few, and were hand made by Ghia, so are much better quality. They price is about a third of what it should be. - Motorhead


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Question 4
Where are the hinge screws on the door of 1967 bug?...  

Answers
1)   If I remember right, they are behind some plastic plugs on the inside door frame. - Motorhead

2)   Open the door and look at the hinges. There are some 'clear' plastic plugs that cover the holes. Pop them off and you will see the screws inside

. - ca_surveyor

3)   I would hazard a guess and say...the hinge? - I taut I saw a puddy kat


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Question 5
Why does the 2006 Jetta TDI have such a low "green rating"?...  I really want a jetta tdi, but 25k is a little high. I've been looking at an 06 jetta tdi. I just checked yahoo auto's green rating, and it gets a 25 while the 2010 model gets a 72!?!?!? Why is this and is there anything I could do to an 06 to make it much more green?

Thank you!

Answers
1)   Advances in engine technology. You are not gonna get there unless you have all the stuff of the 2010.(engine, computer, etc) Which means going out and buying a 2010. - Xavwieztsky

2)   Buy the 2006.
The diesels have been given a fake bad rating for over a decade.
In reality all diesel engines put out only a small fraction of the pollution of gas engines.
That is because they primarily put out soot, which is heavy and rapidly settle out.
But the problem is car makers want to sell gasoline cars, not diesels, because diesels last too long.
So they make the DEQ laws strict on soot instead of the real toxic pollutants gasoline engines produce, like cyanates, formalins, sulfites, etc.

It is true the 2010 diesels added catalytic converters, and things to eliminate the natural soot of a diesel, but in doing so they actually put out far more toxic pollution. Just not what is tested for.
Which is why you can't trust ratings controlled by car makers. - Motorhead

3)   In 2007 the EPA changed their emissions requirements for diesels sold in the US. For vehicles sold as 2007 MY and newer, there were much stricter limits on the amount of pollution the car could create out the tailpipe. So the diesels you could buy in 2006 could be, and were, much dirtier than today's. That's why most light duty diesels disappeared after 06. In 09 VW reintroduced the TDI with a DPF (diesel particulate filter). Basically, it traps the soot in the exhaust system, and occasionally burns it off. You'll notice if you see a brand new TDI that there's never any smoke out the tailpipe, unlike 06 or older TDIs

As for improving the older models, I'm pretty sure it's just about impossible. The DPF system is extremely complicated and has many, many sensors in the engine and exhaust. It has to co-ordinate a number of things all at once to accomplish its reduced emissions. Other car makers like Mercedes use a Urea trap to filter out the soot. But with those systems the urea needs to be replenished every so often. That system might be simpler than VW's DPF. You might be able to retrofit that kind of system onto an older diesel, but I'm not sure about that. - PoliPino


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