Is This A Good First Time Car?

Question 1
Is This A Good First Time Car?...  http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201003350661688/sort/pricedesc/usedcars/price-to/2000/body-type/hatchback/transmission/manual/engine-size-cars/1l_to_1-3l/page/8/postcode/bs311ay/radius/40?logcode=p

I just wanted your opinion :P I was thinking it looked good, it's a VW so it'll be reliable and only 1.0 litre engine
OK. Clearly i was not meant to have the VW. What about this http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/200943344487258/sort/priceasc/usedcars/transmission/manual/body-type/hatchback/maximum-age/over_10_years_old/price-to/3000/model/106/make/peugeot/radius/40/page/1/postcode/bs311ay?logcode=p

OR this:
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201023360644727/sort/priceasc/usedcars/transmission/manual/engine-size-cars/1l_to_1-3l/price-to/2000/body-type/hatchback/postcode/bs311ay/page/12/radius/40/keywords/central%20locking%20?logcode=p
This is a slightly older model Fiesta http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201018358329705/sort/priceasc/usedcars/transmission/manual/body-type/hatchback/maximum-age/over_10_years_old/model/fiesta/make/ford/page/1/radius/40/postcode/bs311ay?logcode=p

Or this, a newer version of the polo

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201025361978689/sort/pricedesc/usedcars/price-to/2000/body-type/hatchback/quantity-of-doors/5/transmission/manual/make/volkswagen/postcode/bs311ay/radius/40/page/1?logcode=p

Answers
1)   A 21 year old car for that money - they are having a laugh. Due to its age it will be nothing but trouble and be difficult to get parts for.
Even if the nileage is correct it is worth about £400 maximum and on inspection could be a whole lot less. - Timbo is here

2)   well its ugly if thats what you wanna know but its cheap so you can't expect much. I converted the euros to dollars and its about $2,500. you cant get a great car for that much in America but my cousin just got one for $3,000. i dont know what it was but it was a good reliable car. therefor i think you can do much better. - Serena

3)   I'm American, so I might have a different perspective, and I drive about 1,200 miles a month in my car.

Manual - this car might have a difficult shift. I don't know your experience, first car, new driver? Not sure.
81,000 miles - How long you expect to keep this car for, looking at the condition and this mileage on top of it. I say you have a good 3 or less years. 3 is being very nice. I really doubt it.

1 - horrible condition
2 - doesn't look good ..
3 - is not worth what the asking price is ..

I don't know your taste, but, for a first car I wouldn't go for a car by looks and going by a brand-name .. yes VWs are reliable but I don't think for over 20 years they promise that.

I say keep looking. Sorry :/ - Jule

4)   Nope. Money down the drain. Buy Parkers Guide and use it as a guide to what you should be paying for secondhand vehicles. It would be wiser to use your cash as a deposit and buy a newer car on credit. Have a look around Citroen dealers. The C1 is a great first car. Group 1 insurance, £35 annual road tax and 62.8 average mpg. Built by Toyota. Fun to drive too. - Bazza

5)   my computer does not read what you have put ...but from answer no 1 ..its a 21 year old vw ....polo?thats the only small car fvrom that era ..81000.miles ..dream on its been clocked ..would i buy it NO..and nor should you ..at any price ..and just because its a vw does not mean its reliable ...why o you think there are so many vw garages ...ps i own a garage and mot station - boy boy

6)   A shed, and a bl00dy expensive one at that. Don't even think about wasting money on that heap. - who_is_jack_shit

7)   The Polo was designed to replace the bug. They are great cars, but slow. I have a buddy with one in the USA. He has put over 250,000 miles on it. The miles are low for the age. The price is decent to a little high. Check around your area for parts availability. I am willing to bet they are easy to find and cheap! - Rod Knocker

8)   First car? Since when can you get picky? I would have gone for the grey or blue ones in the middle of the page and you won't freak out if somebody scratches the paint(or dent the body). Heck, you are only gonna have it for a year or two before you switch to something else.
Oh, go for the 4 door over the 2. It is so nice to be able to stuff stuff in the back without having to have to flip the drivers seat forward and fiddle it in. Boxier is better than a sleek hatchback because stuff is boxy and high and the hatch won't close because of that.
I have had 19 different vehicles and looking for 20th in addition to my 19 because of its shortcomings. Every vehicle has those. Look at it as a vehicle for doing work. Luxury vehicles - the Bentleys and RR are for those people that don't have to work; I am guessing you do.
VW is my choice over any American made car hands down. Also over any British or French made cars.
If you can't pull 25+ years out of that car, I would be surprised. Also mileage should be able to do 3oo,ooo miles without any sweat. However, go for standard shift transmission. And learn how to drive the car.

That sounds simple, but it is different than domestic American cars or even British ones. Learn where the shift points are and don't get lulled into lugging the motor. Lugging will blow out the bottom end. You should hear the motor whine at high speed. That may use more fuel but the motor stays in good shape. I learned that from an old timer VW mechanic. - crude dude telling it like it is

9)   the top 1 is perfect: low milage and not too old but old enough to lower insurence so get it =] - Wa-Guan_G


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Question 2
Does anybody know the name and model type of this car?...  I know it is a VW but the model type, year, and anything else you know would be really helpful. At least give this question a really good guess. This car has fascinated me.
Thank you....
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/1387/pict0011ce2.jpg

Answers
1)   Golf Mk3
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Golf_Mk3 - chris2EM

2)   Volkswagen Scirocco - ~ANNA~~

3)   Early to mid nineties, Volkswagen golf - David

4)   It's an MK3 Golf with a Jetta front end conversion. Also called a Jolf. - Tyler

5)   Tyler is right- it's a Jolf. - djaca70


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Question 3
what kinda car is this ? 10pt for best answer?...  I know its a vw bug, but how would one get one like this, or make one look this way?

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/download/file.php?id=7280&sid=befadf7ecfae6aba5b57360b5ce14617

Answers
1)   that is not a VW bug. looks like it is lowered. that is an old as vintage car tho it is not a Bug i repeat this is not a Bug - candace

2)   That looks like a very old car to me? Maybe they don't make cars that look like that anymore. - Mariaa! ❤

3)   I don't know the specific name but It looks like an Old Bug Car or an old Buggie. - Tiger0244

4)   Yes it is a vw bug. It has been slammed or lowered with alternate suspension components and has been chopped or has had a segment of the "a" pillar removed. - dopey_830

5)   this car is a very old Volkswagen beetle that has a water cooled noisy engine this car has also being modified into visual ways
#1 it has had a lowering kit fitted could even be air bag suspension
# the roof of the passenger cabin has also being lower buy about a third of its origanal height


if u have ever seen the original version of the film "herbie" that is the same type of car - impretzaboy


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Question 4
a question for the wheel specialists?...  ok so i dont know much about wheels ( to make that clear)
i bought a set of alloys and tyres which came off an audi a3 (2009 59 plate) and tried to fit them to my vw transporter t5 (2006 06) unfortunately they dont seem to fit although they are the same stud and possibly have the same pcd...
is there anything i could do to make them fit?
thanks and please dont give rubbish cheap answers thanks again

Answers
1)   It's because the A3 has a PCD of 5x100 and the Transporter had a PCD of 5x112. Not much in it but enough for them not to fit properly, if at all, and trying to do so will only cause damage.

5x112 is also Mercedes fitment hence the popularity of AMG style alloys on VW vans. I think (but don't hold me to this) Granada Scorpios had the same fitment and Mk2 on VW Passats do too.

The only way to get your Audi wheels on to your van would almost certainly be to change the hubs which would be a nightmare and costly too. - Bill

2)   You could get by with success if you bought spacers. Check out H&R's website. - djaca70

3)   No its a BMW style wheel fitting, this would never fit. - Charlene S

4)   The first answer is wrong because he has quoted you the fitment for the old Audi A3 (5x100), and the fitment for the old VW T4 van (5x112) .
The second answer is wrong because even if you can get spacers/adapters it will push the wheels out too far and they will be outside the body line of the vehicle.
The Audi wheels are 5x112 PCD, but your VW T5 needs wheels with 5x120 PCD.
I assume you bought them cheap without trying them, so you probably paid less than £100, so you can easily sell them on to anyone else who has an A3 or the equivalent Golf.
Or if you bought them from a reputable firm, you can take them back and get your money refunded, because they are obviously not suitable for the purpose.
There are NO spacers or adapters or converters to make them fit because the bolt holes don't line up - they don't match.
And even if the wheels did fit correctly, the tyres are off a small car but the VW is a big van so they are totally unsuitable. - CDC


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Question 5
Can someone please help me with my jetta 2002?...  hello. I had recently graduated fron high school and as a gift i got a jetta 2002. the first day in the screen there was this orange light turning on. its right next to the 20 in the speed monitor. and im really worried about it. it looks like a faucet and i dont want to move it. i went to the mechanic and told me it was the motor...PLEASE HELP ME im not an expert at this i will apreciated

Answers
1)   Victor, do yourself a favor and find a new mechanic. i think that symbol usually will mean either oil, or water with coolant needs to be added. - adam/penny

2)   I have a Jetta to and I believe you should check your oil or go get an oil change, you can also go to like an Auto Zone and they can plug this machine into your car and it will tell you what is wrong with it (it is free) - Angel

3)   Faucet? Go to the library and get a book on repair and maintenance of VW Jettas or Rabbits or Golfs any year fairly close and take a quick glance through it. You are not gonna find an owners manual.
You either are looking for dash lights (which may be in the front index) or warning lights. or indicator lights. And look them up for cooling system.

It "could" be low on coolant(your overflow container could be dry-which it never should be)-meaning the radiator could be also low,or low on windshield washer fluid .
Those are the only things I can think of that use "water" >which comes out of a tap(or faucet) And "water" used to be the only coolant they used to cool motors in the past.
It is not a waste of time. You learn it once, you know it forever.

If the warning was in words, how good is your German? - crude dude telling it like it is

4)   Victor,
You do not have to worry about this whatsoever. But you better get used to it.
I have owned a Jetta 2002 for the past 4 years and had that orange light on most of the time. As a new owner, I used to worry about it and brought my car back to the dealership a few times. The first 2 times they told me it was the glow plugs (I own a TDI). I changed them just to have this warning light back on after a few days. The third time I complained about it, they told me it was related to the fact that my rear light was dead (which it was). I changed it with again little sucess. Now, I do not care about it. I still do all the necessary maintenance on time and never had a problem.
VWs Jettas are well known to have electrical problems. That is just part of it... - Chop


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New 62 VW bug owner - oil drip, caked looking oil under car. (pic)?

Question 1
New 62 VW bug owner - oil drip, caked looking oil under car. (pic)?...  Just picked up a 62 bug.

After driving it home for the fist time - 40+ min at highway speeds I noticed a few drips once I got home. It was kind of peculiar because I noticed a bit of oil residue dripping out those holes near the rear bumper (they have those plastic plugs on them)

I looked under the right side of the vehicle and I saw what looked like old oil residue and oil residue accumulating on the rear right side of the inside of the chrome bumper.

I have taken it out 3-4 times so far each with oil spots being left. The seller never once mentioned anything about oil and as apparent as it is to me, I fear he must be hiding something big.

The car looks cherry inside and out, being a first time bug owner I fear I may have purchased a polished turd.

Sigh.. I am going to my mechanic on Monday

I understand bugs may leak, it comes with the territory - to me the engine runs great, had no problem cruising around town, sounds great, it does have an odor in the car, possibly from heat + old oil heating up.

Do oil leaks equal a lemon?
Is this going to be a couple hundred dollar or 1000 dollar fix?

Red arrows is to me what looked grimey, where recent oil has touched. Everything is under the car.

http://img686.imageshack.us/i/dscf3492f.jpg
http://img514.imageshack.us/i/dscf3493y.jpg
http://img412.imageshack.us/i/dscf3494g.jpg/
This link will show pics:
http://yfrog.com/j8dscf3492j

Answers
1)   its a bug don't worry about acouple of leaks.. i had a few mostly with built motors, your leaks are pprobably from the clip on valve cover gaskets under $10 to replace or the oil pump/pulley area or the push rod tubes alittle more costly to re-seal like a few hundred but if its only a few drips then leave and enjoy - mykwilwin

2)   I believe it takes me about 7 minutes to pull an engine out on a bug lol Once out you can get to anything that needs to be repaired so if you need to find a mechanic keep in mind just how easy this is. - bill b

3)   thats nothing to worry about. all bugs leak. there are some driving around out there daily that are leaking far worse than yours, trust me, ive seen them in person. just have an extra 2 quarts in the trunk with you and check it daily, top off as needed. unless you find you are adding almost a quart a week or within 500 miles then i would look at the rear main seal or crankshaft slinger. check to make sure the hose going from the oil filler neck to the air cleaner is not clogged or bent at a sharp angle than air is not getting though. its the breather for crankcase pressure and if its clogged you will have oil shooting from the crankshaft pulley and coating the entire engine bay, its happened to me before. also check the torque specs of the bolts on the underside of the motor. also check the oil drain plate is on securely and the 2 paper gaskets are in place. - Air-Cooled ACVW


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Question 2
how much are Volkswagen's beetles?...  i really love this car, how much would one be new or old but good condition
thanks

Answers
1)   A lot more than they're worth. - G X

2)   Do you mean the old proper Beetle or the new golf based girly one? - who_is_jack_shit

3)   Three words for you, Kelley Blue Book. Might have heard of it. - RS


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Question 3
what year did vw begin putting radiators in their beetles?...  

Answers
1)   The New Beetle with a water cooled engine was introduced in 1998. - pbleek

2)   none of the old style beetle had radiators. they didnt need them since the engines are cooled by air and not water. so the first year they had radiators would be 1998 in the NEW BEETLE not an old body style one. they made the old ones in mexico until 2003 and they were still air-cooled and had no radiator - Air-Cooled ACVW


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Question 4
do all diesel jetta's have the turbo?...  do all volkswagen jettas with the diesel engine have the turbo on them?

Answers
1)   Yes they do, even the old style 1.9's were all turbocharged. You would be hard pressed to find a non turbocharged diesel these days. Even the first generation smart cars had a 800 cc inter cooled turbocharged 3 cylinder diesel. - pbleek

2)   All the recent models have a turbo on them; you'd have to go back to the late 1970's or so to get a VW Jetta/Golf/Rabbit without a turbo. They used a 1.6 liter, four cylinder that generated something along the lines of 54 BHP or so, I bought one new in 1979 and it was s-l-o-w to accelerate even with the 4 speed manual transmission. Todays diesel has 140 BHP or nearly 3 times the horsepower that my 1979 VW had and it gets about the same milage, but is a lot better at acceleration and doesn't smoke or smell and is much faster at starting especially in weather below 40F. - a car nut


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Question 5
1981 VW Vanagon air-cooled or water-cooled?...  We are buying a 1981 VW Vanagon the guy selling it said it was water-cooled the internet said it is air-cooled. Baffled! Do anyone know for sure or know how to look and find out! Thanks

Answers
1)   They made a water and air cooled engine on the vanagons in the 80's. Just be careful you don't live somewhere cold during the winter or it will freeze inside the engine. - Mrtheroosterdude

2)   1981 should have an air cooled motor. they switched over to water cooled boxer motors for the 1984 model. the motor was still in the back though. - Air-Cooled ACVW


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Can a Volkswagen Beatle be a guy car?

Question 1
Can a Volkswagen Beatle be a guy car?...  I think that it dosen't matter what people think but what your personal preference is.

Answers
1)   A gay guy's car. - Account

2)   I think black beatles are actually kinda cool and ive seen men driving them before. But lots of people are noobs now adays and make stupid ideas based on other people's views, but i'm fine w/ it being a guy car. - Joey

3)   It is more aerodynamic, so gets better mileage. That is for everyone. - Motorhead

4)   I dont think it matters either! I was thinking about one. But yes=ah, it can, it looks pretty cool when u put a factory spoiler on the back too! :) Also, they last a while and are great for everyday stuff, as long as you take out the flower that comes in the little vase by the steering wheel, it would be a great car for a guy! - Corey

5)   personally i think it can be either but it depends on the color - Jewels Mint

6)   Make it your car. Personalize it, lower it, nice rims and no one will think it's a girl's car. - Thomas

7)   If it's a 5-speed diesel, sure. - Richard R

8)   Aircooled Beetle such as 1979 and older, that's fine.
New Beetles, like 1998 and newer currently sold by VW: only if you're gay or have given up on life. - Jay S

9)   I think a black one with a spoiler and big chrome wheels would be a guy car. Same with old baja bugs. - The Pizzaman


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Question 2
I need to jump start my beetle/bug every time i turn it off.?...  I didnt start the car in over a year, and i connected cables to the battery to start it, i left it on for about 2 hours, turned it off and the battery was dead just 5 minutes after i turned it off, that was yersterday, today i used cables again, drove it for 15 minutes and turned it off, tried to turn it on and the car kinda tried to turn on but it failed, tried again and the battery died again.

Is it the alternator or the Battery?
@ Motorhead you said 'Charge it or replace it instead.' i dont have money atm, what about the charge option does it work? and how?

Answers
1)   Battery. Check the date on top battery. Since was not run in year, the battery is most likely shot. - swflsteelerfan

2)   Battery. - likesfemalefeet

3)   Sounds like you need a new battery. - pbleek

4)   If you keep doing that it will need an alternator soon.
When the battery is really, really bad, as it should be after sitting a whole year, then the alternator will try to kill itself trying to charge up that hopeless battery.

You really did not need to ask. Any battery not touched for a year will be shot. No exception.
And you should not jump start a really bad battery.
Charge it or replace it instead.
But after a whole year, don't even bother charging it.
Just recycle it. - Motorhead

5)   If the battery isn't maintance free, check water level fill if necessary to split rings. With battery out of car put on 5 or 10 amp charge about 8 hours, this might help out the life of battery. - hotvw1914cc

6)   Pull the battery out of the car.
Refill it with distilled water
Hold it about 12" off the ground and drop it (make sure it will fall flat on the bottom)
The jilt will break some of the cells and can allow it to take a charge again (usually, an old trick that shady car dealers will use to avoid buying a new battery)
Place it on a trickle charge (2 amps for a day)
Try it again. If it does not work, you will have to replace it.
I let some of my cars sit for years on end and this trick will let the battery charge up again.....I have also had batteries not die after sitting for a year or so, like the battery on my flat bed trailer that works the winch.
Good Luck - Rod Knocker


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Question 3
Is 132,000 miles bad for a used VW Jetta?...  I'm getting a new (used) car, and i'm really thinking about getting a Volkswagon Jetta.
Is 132,000 miles too high?
I've heard that 70,000 miles is good, but 130,000 is bad. I don't know if it depends on the car?
So, car junkies, is 132,000 miles bad for a used jetta?
Oh, and what is good mileage i should be looking for in a used jetta?
I hope this explanation made sense, haha.

Answers
1)   yes - Your Secret Admirer

2)   Better is to find one with under 100.000miles that will be great.]
Now if you want to continue with this one you should check the turbo (if it has one)if it has issues with the turbo walk away
Check the chassis to find out if it is crashed(better go to a vw dealership and ask to check the vin number)if it is crashed and fixed walk away
Check if the engine is proper starting before and after driving if it is not walk away
Check the steering response if it has issues walk away.
There many other little facts that shows huge problems if you want more just let me know! - SPIROS

3)   It is not a question of good or bad.
I have over 300,000 miles on my GTI and it is perfect.
It is much better than a car with only 70,000 that is broken.

The reality is that the longer a car has been neglected, the more that can be wrong or accumulate.
So there is a greater risk factor.
At 70,000 miles, it is unlikely a bad driver would have an opportunity to do much harm, such as over heating it or something.
But by 130,000, they could have ignored a minor coolant leak, neglected to change the timing belt, never changed the oil, etc., and could have done actual damage.

So there is no such thing as good or bad miles. Almost any car can be perfect forever.
It is just a question of risk, based on guessing how badly the last owner abused the car or not.
The higher the miles, the greater the risk.
But if the last owner did a good job, then a car with 300,000 miles on it could be perfect.

But I would also suggest staying away from features that multiply the risk factor, like turbo chargers, automatic transmission, etc. Things like this are more expensive, delicate, and are bound to increase repair costs. - Motorhead

4)   My brother bought a 1994 VW Golf GL and it had 160,000 in it. Runs like a champ. - vwr3609

5)   If the Jetta has a 2.8L VR6 engine make sure the timing chains have been replaced
If the Jetta has a 1.8L Turbo engine make sure the timing belt and waterpump has been replaced.
Please post year, engine and transmission type - Darien Falks

6)   ANY Jetta engine can last for 400,000 + miles, but only if maintained correctly. If the previous driver did very little "preventative maintenance," like changing the water pump, coolant, and timing belt (if it has one) on time, you could be heading for expensive problems. I have had 3 high output Rabbits, and 2 Audis. I LOVED them ALL!!!! But, i know exactly what to look for, and when to look for it. If you develop an ear and eye for these things, you will be further ahead. SO many people end up blaming the car or it's engineering when actually it is owner neglect that causes most issues! FEW QUESTIONS..... What year is it. Auto or stick?? Which engine??? E-mail me back. I have MANY tips for you!!! - Robert M


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Question 4
1000cc,1500cc,mean in 'cc'?...  some bie name is 1000cc ,1500cc, 1800cc i ask what mean in cc

Answers
1)   'cc' stands for 'cubic centimeters' which is the same as milliliters (mL) - signaleerodayear

2)   Volumetric displacement (size) of the engine, bigger engine equals more power. - jimmymae2000

3)   It means the total volume of the engine cylinders, in cubic centimeters. The more volume an engine has, the more power it can produce. - Zak

4)   cc stands for cubic centemeters. The more cc the bigger the engine is. - Chad

5)   CC stands for cubic centimeters. It is basically how big the engine is. The more cc, the more powerful it will generally be. - The Pizzaman


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Question 5
Can anyone tell me how to disable DRL on VW PASSAT 2007 manual transmission. (Stick Shift)?...  I am trying to install a set of HID lights.

Answers
1)   you will need access to a VCDS to access the central electronics control module (CECM), then using the long-coding helper:

- Disable DRL
- Enable Bixenon w/o shutter

www.ross-tech.com -- need a Micro-CAN or HEX-CAN only. Generic cables will not work. - cant_think_of_1

2)   You need to get it scanned with a VAG-COM. Also, installing HID's involve ballasts and rewiring. - djaca70

3)   Could someone explain to me what the transmission has to do with gas headlights?
I understand how the gas headlights have to draw a lot more current, but why would shifting be involved? - Motorhead

4)   @Motorhead

My guess is that the auto turns the DRLs on when the car is removed from park where as the manual trans cars do it on the emergency brake so it's probably coded differently.

Again, just a guess though. - Richard R


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STICK SHIFT questions please answer!: )?

Question 1
STICK SHIFT questions please answer!: )?...  okay so ive always driven an automatic, but recently bought a 5 speed 2001 golf. ive driven a stick shift cj7 (jeep) but this golf is different! everytime im in first gear starting to go, its like the engine is reving soo much. im switching my feet from the clutch to the gas pretty well, sometimes i do get scared i will stall and push the clutch back down but i seems like the engine rawrs and i have to put it in second gear asap! is that normal? just curious. any suggestions on how to change gears more smothly? thank you!

Answers
1)   Make sure that you are travelling in the right gear for the right speed. 1st gear 0-10 mph, 2nd gear 10-20 mph, 3rd gear 20-30 mph, 4th gear 30-40 mph, 5th/6th gear 40+ mph!....I have been driving for 15 1/2 years - trust me - I am correct. Concentrate on right speed - right gear and you shan't go wrong. R.P.M has nothing to do with gear selection as every car differs when it comes to this!.... - kbcying

2)   Make sure it goes like this, 1st gear 0-10 mph, 2nd gear 10-20 mph, 3rd gear 20-30 mph, 4th gear 30-40 mph, 5th/6th gear 40+ mph. And its the same with my aunts mini cooper, it just means you gotta do a little less clutch and when you chift gears let off the clutch softly, but not to slow. Good luck, i hope this helps dude, - Corey

3)   kbcying's answer is wrong. The gear you switch to depends on the RPMs. If you are pushing the gas hard, then yes you will need to shift faster, so try starting slower and you will shift slower and your start shouldn't be so rocky. And always remember to let out of the clutch all the way. If you don't it WILL result in either a blown head gasket, cracked head, or cracked engine. This happened to my friend. Good luck with driving and glad to hear someone finally got a cool car. - Dave-TransAm

4)   Pushing the clutch back in if you think it is going to stall is good.

Getting into 2nd quickly is good. First gear wastes a lot of gas.

But it sounds like you may be giving it too much gas while you slip the clutch in 1st gear.
Go to an empty parking lot and practice just letting the clutch out in 1st gear.
See how little gas you can use, if you do it slowly enough.
Then see how much gas you need if you are in a hurry.
Both are necessary sometimes, and you need to have a feel for each.
After a half hour of this, you will have the habit down and do much better. - Motorhead

5)   I have a 2003 wolfsburg edition jetta 1.8t, and i've also noticed the low gear ratio. If you've drivin on the highway you'll notice your cars rpms are at almost 3,000 at around 70mph. And in first gear especially if yours is turbo'd you'll notice after your turbo begins spooling your rpms will rise pretty quickly if your not used to it. I've drove sticks my whole life but it even took me a couple days of getting used to the low gears with the turbo'd motor. - Chris

6)   You just need a little practice. Modern stick shift cars don't stall as easy. It might be a good idea to find a quiet stretch of road and put the clutch down, move into 1st gear and slowly lift the clutch WITHOUT pressing the gas pedal at all, just so you can see how easy it is to stall. The other thing you could do is look at the rev counter when the engine is on and not in gear, then look to. See where the rev needle rises to when you change gear. You don't need much pressure on the gas at all. Its just going to take a little time to get used to. - mr.abc

7)   This is a question of clutch control and not speed as other people have said. The truth is that the clutch and the gas pedal don't work together in tandem, but as an independent dance.

Exercise:
If you hold your right foot at a constant amount of revs, and then slowly pull your foot off the clutch as slowly as you possibly can, you should start to feel a point where is begins to "bite".
When the clutch is fully to the floor, you can wiggle the gearstick anywhere you like, but the control starts to happen when you slowly pull back your left foot.

Try counting to 20 and pulling back your left foot. The car itself will tell you if it wants more gas. Basically the whole point is to train control into your left foot. This will work for every gear. - Rollo


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Question 2
IS THE JETTA GLS TDI AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL TRANSMISSION ?...  

Answers
1)   You can get it either way. - Kenny

2)   They have been and continue to be available with either a manual or automatic transmission, though the ones that I've seen in California have almost always been with the manual transmission.
Inspite of the automatic transmission being the most popular choice on most VW that I've seen, over the past twenty-five years+, I've only seen two automatic diesel Jetta's here at the dealership here in California. - a car nut

3)   It is available in both, but the smart choice is manuel, VWS auto trans are very very i mean very unreliable after a couple of years. - Ben Elledge


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Question 3
where can i customize the interior on my vw beetle at?...  any websites. like the interior and the dash n stuff.?

Answers
1)   Use your own creativity and stop copying others. - crude dude telling it like it is

2)   to buy stuff, try jbugs:

http://www.jbugs.com/

For advice and info, try the Samba:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/ - Jason

3)   well im assuming that your talking about a new beetle. if you are you can get some interior parts from www.mjmautohaus.com. you can check out http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?5-New-Beetle-New-Beetle-Convertible. - nin_luver_2002


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Question 4
Can you get aircon in the old VW Beetle?...  I want an old VW Bug and I just wanna know if you can buy an aftermarket A/C unit. And is there a heater and normal fan standard? Are they bad? And What kind of fuel economy could you get, like 20mpg? Less? Thanks

Answers
1)   Fuel economy was never particularly high with VW bugs, except in contrast to what Detroit iron was doing in the day. 25 mpg should be possible, maybe more if the engine is kept tuned.

After-market A/C units should be available from the JC Whitney people, who sell almost ANYTHING you could ever need for old VWs. They never work very well, but it's better than NO A/C! And it WILL reduce your mileage, possibly by as much as 20%.

Good luck! - Bryce

2)   VW actually offered an AC unit in some of its bugs, but the problem was that it took a lot of power.

Remember, the stock engine only cranked out between 36 and 55 HP depending upon the engine. The compressor took about 2 hp to run and the fan motor took a bit to so even at just the 2 hp, the AC alone was sucking about 4% of the maximum engine power.

On hot days in City traffic there was a large loss in efficiency and economy and nobody really bought them and they were discontinued.

After market AC units were available but they were just as bad. Better to plan on using those windwings.. they actually work pretty good at forcing a breeze into the car. As an extra, put in pop-out rear windows and you will keep it fairly cool except on really hot days.

Heater: The bug has a good heater except in areas with snowfall and subzero temps. The air cooled engine becomes too efficient in those conditions and the engine never really warms up. Great fuel efficiency but you will need to have a plug in heater for those climates. In moderate areas the heater will toast you just fine. There is no fan per se... the engine fan pumps the cooling air over a heat exchanger and you regulate the temp by a lever.. works fine excpet in the snow (as noted). If you want more air power there are add-on kids to increase the air flow.

Gas mileage.. a well tuned engine, running around 1700 cc with a single carb. should get you between 26 and 28 miles per gallon.

any more questions? The bug is a nice little car and unique in that whatever you spend on it today, you will get it back tomorrow since the value is going up. A well restored bug will bring you between 3 and $5k depending upon the engine and the year. - ca_surveyor

3)   A/C was available as a dealer installed option. The units worked very well although they tended to drag the engine down when operating. Cruising was fine, acceleration suffered. Units are still available for old Beetles and are much more efficient these days, with rotary compressors and all.
Old bugs had heaters of a sort, depending on air circulating around the exhaust manifolds. Later models had a circulating fan.
Gas mileage on A/C-equipped Beetles was certainly more than 20MPG. I owned a '71 Super Beetle with A/C and it got decent mileage, especially on the road and that was with an old style recip compressor. - Arthur O


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Question 5
what is the diffrence golf tdi, golf gt tdi, golf gt and what fuel is for each of them?...  

Answers
1)   Anything with a "d" in it VW is a diesel. - D

2)   they both diesel. .i had gt tdi golf and write on the back just tdi but in lockbook write gt tdi high power ,120 horse power - ariyan m

3)   the difference between the golf tdi and the golf gt tdi is just standard options, and bhp, and they both take diesel. the golf gt is just like the gt tdi only the motor is not diesel, it just takes normal unleaded. - nin_luver_2002


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2001 Jetta won't start w/o a jump. Then runs ok but when I turn it off won't start again w/o another jump. ?

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is there a voltswagen out there that fits 5 people?

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Updated June 13, 2010, 6:10 pm

Updated June 12, 2010, 6:10 pm

Updated June 10, 2010, 6:10 pm

Looking to buy a VW Golf 2001, is the mileage too high?

Question 1
Looking to buy a VW Golf 2001, is the mileage too high?...  Im looking to buy a 2001 Golf 1.6.

The car is in immaculate condition, has an almost full VW service history, (just had a recent service and cambelt change). The only t hing is, I usually buy cars with a reasonably low mileage and this has 94,000 on he clock. Is this too many for a 1.6? Its from a garage with a 6 month parts and labour warrenty at £2,600.

Would I be making a mistake buying this car? Anyone with a good knowledge of cars please let me know... Many thanks.

Answers
1)   That's quite a low mileage. It should have done 108,000 at an average of 12,000 mls a year. - Ian

2)   If it's got full or nearly full VW service history and has had the cambelt and water pump changed then you have nothing to worry about..

Volkwagens are renowned for lasting forever!

I had a 1993 1.3 Polo 3 years ago with 88,000 on the clock and it ran like a dream, and after that I had a 1997 Polo 1.4 with over 90,000 and never had a problem.

As long as it's properly serviced and maintained then there's no reason why it shouldn't run well over 120-130k! :) - Chris

3)   Not a bad deal, VW's 1.6 lumps are pretty strong... I think the one you are looking at might be an AEH engine.

Their most common problems are Temp guages sensors & Air mass sensors. besides that they are pretty easy to look after. 94k isn't so bad for these motors especially if its in good nick.

Take a look around though, you may find Audi A3's for similar prices or Golfs even cheaper!

All the best... - Eric

4)   i wouldnt pay that for a car with that mileage,,

look on ebay and have a look what other garages are selling the same type of car for,, - snuff hunter

5)   stay away. - Me.

6)   no you wouldnt be making a mistake mate vw golfs are solid cars they built to last believe me i just had one and i had 200k on it and its still going strong so you will be fine - Aron

7)   A Golf 1.6 is capable of double that mileage, as are most cars nowadays, if it's been properly serviced, which it sounds like this one has.
Given that the average annual mileage is around the 10k mark, it's not actually that high a mileage for a 9 year old car, but as is always the case at a dealer, it's very expensive.
He's taking well over £1000 profit out of it at that price. I'd try to get him down to about £2,000 and not bother with the warranty, they're not usually worth the paper they're printed on and you can buy a used car warranty online for under £100. - EvelynThe ModifiedDog.


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Question 2
Should I get a Volkswagen Beetle?...  Should I get a vw beetle as my first car? I heard they get like 34 mpg....?

Answers
1)   Only an older one, I think your friends might make fun of you if you get a newer one with the flowers in the dashboard. But the older ones are cool, very counter culture. - Tyler

2)   more around 30..

and youll put half your money in it just fixing the damn thing - KB™

3)   The new VW Beetle is just a golf dressed up to look cutsie.
And it is about 30 - my auntie-in-law has one and it has given her nothing but grief!

Stay clear is my advice =] - Fizzcore

4)   If your gonna go vw go beetle pre-smog, but with a rebuilt engine, and check the floor pans, and under the battery for rust.
They do get great gas mileage, and are pretty easy to work on.
the newer they get the more expensive the fixes are.
The old ones are good though because if you get one from say 66 or earlier, and clean it up, get all new interior, you can actually make a profit off of it when the economy picks back up. - chocolatier'sdiarysucks!

5)   If you are a girl yeah, or like guys checking you out, sure. I do own a 2001 beetle gls turbo, along with a 2000 audi a6 2.7 twin turbo, a 1990 audi coupe quattro 20v and a 2003 jetta tdi, so you guess what the wife drives. - syd


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Question 3
does volkswagon make ALL lamborghini?...  my friend thinks mercedes make a type of lambo, but i think VW makes ALL lambos, whos right???

Answers
1)   Lamborghini is owned by VW. Mercedes is a totally separate company. - emiller1998

2)   Well Lamborghini owners are Audi and Audi's parent company is Volkswagen so Lamborghini is made by Volkswagen. - Joe Mamma

3)   Lamborghini builds all Lamborghini cars. They are owned by VW/Audi GmBH but the car is made in it's own plant. MB has never owned or built a Lamborghini car. - uthockey32

4)   Tell your friend to lay off the blow. - DAT GUY


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Question 4
How does Honda Accord compare to VW Passat for (a) comfort (b) solidness of build (c) engine performance?...  

Answers
1)   Engine Performance ::: Accord >>> VW Passat
Comfort Level:::: VW Passat >>> Accord
Solidness of Build::: VW Passat >>> Accord
Maintenance Cost::: Accord >>> VW Passat

Very close call... But, I would still say if you are in India, then opt for Honda Accord, since it has a better service network and cost of maintenance is little lower than Passat... - Sonia

2)   Very similar in many ways, but I would vote for the Passat.

The reason being that Japanese cars are built for the short term.
That is because in Japan, they have laws preventing people from being able to keep cars longer than 5 years without paying a huge tax, and because their instant parts inventory philosophy means they are too inconsistent to be able to supply future repair needs. When they put in whatever parts they can get cheapest at the moment, then 5 years later you are unlikely to be able to get replacements.

In contrast, German cars are built to last for more then 15 years, so you can easily get a much better return on your investment. Even if you plan to only keep it a short time, the resale on a VW is much, much better. - Motorhead

3)   What ever you do DONT buy the VW. Repair costs are outragous and they tend to fall apart after 50K. - mack singh

4)   I just got into Honda and right off in the comfort department(if you are sitting in the seat 8 hrs a day go for the VW. The Honda seat is closer to sitting on a wooden bench (oh my aching back!) Solidness VW. Performance -what? Are you planning to race it? Honda would be lighter therefore quicker off the line but why don't you go to the company websites and check all this info out for yourself? VW's are made to last. MY diesel got 740K miles on it before the body rusted away(25yrs old) - crude dude telling it like it is


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Question 5
Volkswagen Golf Front Brake Pads & Rotors, Metallic or Ceramic?...  I just got a quote for my 02 VW Golf front brakes, semi metallic rotors and pads for $250, Ceramic for $320. Any thoughts on what material is better (I don't know what my originals were?) and if this is a fair price? I live in Lexington, KY. Thanks.

Answers
1)   Ceramic resists heat better i believe and therefore works better but its probably not what a VW would come with. Maybe on Audi's.
Metallic is most likely stock. - Super LS6

2)   Too much.
Rotor should be about $60 apiece, and pads should be about $40 a set.
It does not matter what the material is really.
The softer ones are quieter, but leave more dust.
The harder ones wear the rotors faster and are noiser.

The value of semimetalic and ceramic are slowing in race conditions where there is severe over heating. That never happens in real life, so is pointless.
In real life the cheaper pads tend to be better.
Nor should new rotors ever be necessary unless you ignored the warning sounds.
But do not have rotors resurfaced either, because that almost never helps. - Motorhead

3)   Personally I like asbestos-which is basically metallic. They have 100 years behind them in R&D and testing.
The fact is, you waited too long (and now have to get rotors) [hopefully you got more than one shops evaluation regarding the rotors] / instead of paying attention when the brakes started to "squeal" or "squeak" indicating that it was getting to brake pad replacement time. Pads are maybe $60. And you can do the work yourself. If you take it to a shop like Midas, expect double the price(as the cost of labor is the cost of the part + the cost of the part)
Doesn't matter if the price is fair or not. You need brakes. And your "gonads" are exposed. - crude dude telling it like it is


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